Willscam's 11.2 JTR 2.40 SE 4K Theater - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 146 Old 04-09-2012, 09:05 AM
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That cliff jump picture looks like a 30' fall into 3' of water.

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post #32 of 146 Old 04-09-2012, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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I think it was a little bit deeper than 3 ft, but the 30 foot jump is about right.

Most people were jumping from the lower ledge to the left. I graciously declined to jump.

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post #33 of 146 Old 04-13-2012, 09:42 AM
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Your room is starting to shape up. You are going to have some explosive dynamics with an all JTR system.

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post #34 of 146 Old 04-17-2012, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Mike. There are some challenges in this room placing all 11 speakers in their ideal Audyssey DSX locations. I finished running wires to all of the speaker locations last weekend. Some portions of the speaker wire are in-wall and other parts are along the ceiling/wall corner. These I will cover with crown molding. I took a few pictures so I will be posting them up in the next day or two.

My electrician friend also came by and helped me run romex to the 6 sconce locations. That took about 6 hours (remember this is a retrofit of a completed room). Because of accessibility problems, we ran romex for half of the room under the base boards and then up the wall. The other half we ran through the attic and down the wall. I've got a couple of pics of that to follow as well.

My next goal is to get my riser finished up. Hope to have that completed in the next 2 weeks. I don't set very ambitious goals.

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post #35 of 146 Old 04-17-2012, 09:20 PM - Thread Starter
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This picture shows one of the challenges I alluded to in the preceding post. I previously mentioned that I have a bathroom door at 50 - 60 degrees to the right of the main listening position; I also have a window at 45 -55 degrees to the left of the MLP. 50 to 60 degrees is the ideal location for the wide speakers in an Audyssey DSX 11.1 arrangement. I shorted the right wide speaker next to the bathroom door to 45 degrees. I wanted to mirror the left wide speaker at 45 degrees.

Solution: Throw a board across the window and mount the speaker to the board. I realize putting the speaker on a stand would have been easier,
but I prefer the speakers to have no visible stands or attachments in this theater. In addition, the walkway by the bathroom door is going to be a little narrow and I don't want guests bumping into or knocking over my wide speaker, so it's securely mounted to a stud in the wall. So, both left and right wide speakers are mounted to the walls creating a bit of visual symmetry.

I intend for the left wide speaker to appear to be floating in front of the drape that will be covering the window.

This picture also shows the wired locations of two of the sconces. Wiring the sconces on this (exterior) wall proved to be a bit of a challenge and some drywall repair will be required.


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post #36 of 146 Old 04-17-2012, 09:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Checking that the lights work.

We chose a fixture with two opposing bulbs. The intention is for the more widely distributed light to more evenly illuminate the sconce that will cover the fixture.


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post #37 of 146 Old 04-17-2012, 09:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Running speaker wire in-wall and along ceiling/wall corner.



The speaker wire will be covered by crown molding.



I used these to bundle and attach speaker wires to wall.


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post #38 of 146 Old 04-17-2012, 11:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Another obstacle to aural nirvana are my double doors entering the back side of the theater.

To mount the right side surround speaker anywhere near the 90 to 110 degree mark from the MLP, I had to mount the speakers high on the wall (my wife wouldn't let me hang the speaker on the door for visual design reasons - WAF ). The speaker will hang just below the crown molding.

Thankfully, JTR speakers makes surround speakers that already have a 30 degree angle to their drivers. They fire not too far overhead from the main listening position at their mounted locations.

I'm leaving the sconce covers off of the light fixtures for now, they provide loads of light to work by.







I mounted the left side surround over a window directly opposite the right side surround (above the double door). All four side and back surround speakers are at the same height.






Back surround speakers.






Right, right height, and right wide speakers. The LCR Triple12HTs will all be behind an AT screen and false wall.



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post #39 of 146 Old 04-19-2012, 10:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's what I meant by more even light distribution/illumination by using a two bulb fixture.





The sconces are 30" long and my electrician friend and I thought it would be best if they had two points of illumination. The photo accentuates a hot spot on the lower half of the sconce that isn't as noticeable in person. I've ordered a Lutron Spacer dimmer to control light levels in the room. There will be 3 zones.

The sconces are authentic Moroccan pieces. My wife and I thought we would go for something a little offbeat and create a Moroccan lounge/Hookha room themed theater.

Comfy sofas with plenty of ottomans, cushions, pillows, throws, rugs, drapes... I'm beginning to worry I'll make the room acoustically dead.

I have faith the eleven JTR speakers will overcome.

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post #40 of 146 Old 04-21-2012, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willscam View Post

Here's what I meant by more even light distribution/illumination by using a two bulb fixture.





The sconces are 30" long and my electrician friend and I thought it would be best if they had two points of illumination. The photo accentuates a hot spot on the lower half of the sconce that isn't as noticeable in person. I've ordered a Lutron Spacer dimmer to control light levels in the room. There will be 3 zones.

The sconce is an authentic Moroccan piece. My wife and I thought we would go for something a little offbeat and create a Moroccan lounge/Hookha room themed theater.

Comfy sofas with plenty of ottomans, cushions, pillows, throws, rugs, drapes... I'm beginning to worry I'll make the room acoustically dead.

I have faith the eleven JTR speakers will overcome.

Let me know how that spacer system works out for you. I was lookign at the same.

From my reading, it doesn't seem necessary to get the main controller
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post #41 of 146 Old 04-21-2012, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willscam View Post

Painting walls and ceiling:

I used the same paint on the center portion of the doors that I used on the ceiling.

My brother is also in Vegas and has the exact same doors in his house. You do not happen to live in North Vegas do you?

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post #42 of 146 Old 04-23-2012, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Let me know how that spacer system works out for you. I was lookign at the same.

From my reading, it doesn't seem necessary to get the main controller


The spacer system should be delivered sometime this week, so I'll let you know how things work out. I'll probably install it Thursday or Friday. I didn't buy the main controller and will be controlling the lighting with a Harmony 900 remote control.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AZGAMD View Post

My brother is also in Vegas and has the exact same doors in his house. You do not happen to live in North Vegas do you?

I live in southwest Las Vegas in a small gated community of 10 to 15 year old custom homes.

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post #43 of 146 Old 04-23-2012, 01:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Yesterday, I finished putting back on the baseboards and started patching the drywall in a couple of places where we had to cut into the walls to fish the romex over a horizontal exterior wall support board.

With the baseboards back up, I'm ready to continue work on the riser. The riser is going to be up on rubber isolation mounts, have at least one Earthquake shaker installed (need to test adequacy of just one shaker), stuffed with pink insulation, and will have an LED step light.

My friend, the electrician, suggested I plug an LED step light into an existing wall outlet and just leave it on all the time (not on a switch). I'm OK with this as long as the light is not too bright. I'm trying to minimize ambient light in the room. The step light will be perpendicular from the screen, so I don't anticipate this being a problem. Thoughts on this?

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post #44 of 146 Old 04-23-2012, 02:04 PM
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Hey--I love your color scheme (reds are hard to get right--this looks good) and the sconces. One question--where did you get your "cheap but sturdy" speaker stands for behind the screen?
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post #45 of 146 Old 04-23-2012, 02:28 PM
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Nice job willscam, how did I miss this Thread . You made some very nice choices in hardware and the room look. I know you will like the final product.

Hope you're an action movie fan. You should try out the MI Ghost Protocol bluray as one of you first movies. Really fun movie at -10 or more ...

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post #46 of 146 Old 04-23-2012, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheron1701 View Post

Hey--I love your color scheme (reds are hard to get right--this looks good) and the sconces. One question--where did you get your "cheap but sturdy" speaker stands for behind the screen?

Thanks, I like the color too. Selecting colors is the one thing my wife trusts me to do. When the lights are down, the colors are very dark. Some of the pictures make the colors look lighter than they really are.

The stands are actually a worktable from Northerntool. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...1563_200451563

I think you'll like the price, sub $30, and can supposedly support 1000 lbs. The height has some adjustability, too. Works great for these massive JTR T12s. Hard part is picking up the speakers and putting them on the stands.

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post #47 of 146 Old 04-23-2012, 09:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RMK! View Post

Nice job willscam, how did I miss this Thread . You made some very nice choices in hardware and the room look. I know you will like the final product.

Hope you're an action movie fan. You should try out the MI Ghost Protocol bluray as one of you first movies. Really fun movie at -10 or more ...

Hey RMK! Thanks. That's a great first movie choice; I haven't seen MI Ghost Protocol yet, but my wife and kids have (I think in an Imax theater) and they really liked it.

Action movies, especially war movies, and sci-fi, are my favorite subject matter. When I play Xbox, it's almost always a FPS game (Grand Theft Auto being the big exception).

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post #48 of 146 Old 04-23-2012, 10:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's a photo of a sconce that's hanging between the bathroom door and the double doors.

With sconce light on and a spotlight illuminating the wall. The color of the wall and the doors is pretty accurate in this photo, just too much light shining on them.





Another photo with more accurate representation of the color of the sheepskin.




Once I get my Lutron Spacer system up and running, I'll should be able to dial in the lighting ambience.

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post #49 of 146 Old 04-24-2012, 12:30 AM
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Sweet build.

I do have a couple questions.....

Could you put a lower wattage bulb in the bottom half of the sconces to even out the illumination?

What was the deciding factor in the direction of your room layout? My first thought would have been opposite. Where the sliding door is would be my back wall. Then I might have considered mirroring the bathroom inset on the other side of the double door and made it an equipment room. That would create an alcove for the double doors, even out the room dimensions, and (possibly?) improve the wides/heights/sides placement options.


But again, cool room! Wish I had a room I could do that with.
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post #50 of 146 Old 04-24-2012, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willscam View Post

Here's a photo of a sconce that's hanging between the bathroom door and the double doors.

With sconce light on and a spotlight illuminating the wall. The color of the wall and the doors is pretty accurate in this photo, just too much light shining on them.

Another photo with more accurate representation of the color of the sheepskin.

Once I get my Lutron Spacer system up and running, I'll should be able to dial in the lighting ambience.

Will,

Those r really cool lights. I really like em!
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post #51 of 146 Old 04-24-2012, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the Son View Post

Sweet build.

I do have a couple questions.....

Could you put a lower wattage bulb in the bottom half of the sconces to even out the illumination?

I honestly thought of the same thing last night. I'll swing by HD and pick up some 25W light bulbs, they currently have 40W bulbs, top and bottom.

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post #52 of 146 Old 04-24-2012, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the Son View Post

What was the deciding factor in the direction of your room layout? My first thought would have been opposite. Where the sliding door is would be my back wall. Then I might have considered mirroring the bathroom inset on the other side of the double door and made it an equipment room. That would create an alcove for the double doors, even out the room dimensions, and (possibly?) improve the wides/heights/sides placement options.


But again, cool room! Wish I had a room I could do that with.

Good questions. I swapped the room around a few times in sketchup and stood around in the empty room trying to envision how things would turn out. I kept coming back to the layout that I currently have. There are issues with both layouts. Reasons I went with my layout:

1) I like entering a theater at the back, not up front by the screen.

2) I thought it would be easier dealing with the sliding glass doors by having them behind the screen wall. The sliding glass doors are both a light source and source of unwanted sound from outside. I'm going to insulate them and throw drywall over them. It seemed best to hide them behind the false wall.

3) I can have a larger back row seating area. If the riser was on the narrower wall with the sliding glass door, after putting in steps, I would lose 2 or 3 feet of seating.

4) I couldn't figure out how to place wide speakers if the layout was reversed. Seemed the left wide speaker would have to be at the double doors.

5) The screen can be perfectly centered on the wall.

6) Building an equipment room was beyond the scope of this build, though I did consider it and discussed it with my wife. We've decided that everything will be easily reversible when and if we sell the house by removing a few screws and patching up some small holes. Also, I prefer to have the equipment opposite the screen wall on the wall housing the projector. Makes for shorter cable runs to the projector and it makes for a less distracting screen wall when watching a movie - no blinking lights, etc.

I think those were the main reasons for the current layout. I have had a few friends walk through the theater room and they nearly always ask the same thing. Why are you going to cover up the sliding glass door? Why did you put that speaker in front of the window? It's kind of hard for me to explain the audyssey DSX 11.1 layout to them and the necessity to have speakers in specified locations and the need for a quiet, light controlled room. Hopefully the end product will be answer enough.

I appreciate your interest in this build. I know it pales in comparison to many of the builds in this forum. My emphasis is really on the quality of the movie viewing experience. Hopefully, the room will be comfortable enough to be in, though I have no delusions that it will be a "show piece" room.

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post #53 of 146 Old 04-24-2012, 10:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Repairing wall from sconce install. Spray on texture looks OK. I don't want to do too good of a job, then my wife would have me fixing up walls all over the house.



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post #54 of 146 Old 04-25-2012, 11:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I had a request on the Official JTR speakers thread for details on the paint I used. Instead of cluttering up that thread, I'm putting it on my own thread. I got my paint from Home Depot. Behr flat paint. It's a matte paint, but I've found it's pretty easy to touch up smudges without damaging the matte appearance.

Here are the colors:



Spice bazaar on baseboards, crown molding, and door trim.
Folklore on side and rear walls.
Sweet Molasses on ceiling and front (screen) wall. Also on central arched portion of doors.

The only reason I put Sweet Molasses on the front wall was because I knew I was going with an AT screen and wanted a very dark wall behind it. I ended up going with a Screen Excellence 4K Enlightor screen that already comes with a black backing, so that color choice didn't matter.

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post #55 of 146 Old 04-26-2012, 11:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I got an early start on the weekend (which is going to be hectic) and did a little work on the riser.

First, I connected the two halves together using some 1/2" bolts, nuts, and lock washers.





I laid the two halves of the riser side by side.




Another view of the two halves coming together. The two 2 x 12's in the center are the boards I bolted together.



After bolting together, I propped the riser up on it's side to attach fabric and feet. The newly unified riser had gained quite a bit of weight! My back is still feeling that one.



The riser has extra feet at one end to support the step, which is just screwed on to the adjacent platform. I was concerned that with the rest of the platform being suspended, the step might not survive just hanging out there, with no support from below.

After laying the riser back down, to attach an Earthquake Sound Q10B tactile transducer, I noticed that the middle of the platform, near where I had bolted them together, was touching the ground and was not suspended like the rest of the platform. I don't know if it sagged a bit, though it seems sturdy, or if the boards were not straight in the first place, likely, but I need to put some springs or something beneath that section. It's hard to shake a platform that is attached to the wall or floor.

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post #56 of 146 Old 04-27-2012, 04:57 AM
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Nice looking setup.

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post #57 of 146 Old 04-27-2012, 08:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Archaea. Can't wait to flex the powered Captivators. They're on a separate circuit than the rest of my audio equipment, PJ, etc.

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post #58 of 146 Old 04-27-2012, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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A little more progress.

I've installed a LED step light in the riser. The riser will be 14" tall when finished and the step is 7" high.





I've attached the Earthquake Q10B to the riser. It vibrates the riser, but doesn't really "shake" it. I'm going to have to mess with it a little more. It's being powered by a Behringer EPX4000, so it's getting plenty of power. I'll have to track down some springs for the riser to see if that makes any difference. I may have to order additional Q10B's, but I don't think I will do that before testing the Q10B in conjunction with the Captivators. Since my theater is on the second floor, I may get plenty of shake once I add in the subs. I really want to finish up this riser!





I finished patching and painting the wall. The picture is a little dark; suffice it to say it passed the wife's inspection.





The Lutron Spacer System showed up yesterday afternoon. I'll be installing this today. Not sure why the top two dimmers look pink, must have been a weird reflection. They're silver colored, just like the bottom one.


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post #59 of 146 Old 04-27-2012, 02:42 PM
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Hi Will, thank you for posting the details on the paint. It's the first time I have seen your thread.

Also greatly appreciate the detailed pictures. That is great workmanship on the riser. I'm not an expert on those bass shakers but a friend of mine had one in his couch and it did a fine job.

Given your structure is so solid and quite a bit larger maybe you need a few of them to get the riser rocking and rolling.

Cheers
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post #60 of 146 Old 04-27-2012, 04:21 PM
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Hi willscam !

Your HT is looking FANTASTIC!

I would like to share some experience I have with regards to bass shakers. I've been using them since 1999. I use several of the Aura units in the furniture and have a pair of the original Guitammer ButtKickers on the platform.

In a nutshell...your platform is way too "solid". Yeah, I know, it's the obvious thing to do when building one, make it sturdy. That's what I did over 12 years ago when building my platform. I used 2x12's with 2x6 joists with 5/8 OSB for the deck. Guess what....the tiny Aura bass shaker produced more feeling/movement than the BK's. As a matter of fact I called Guitammer and spoke directly with Marvin and expressed how dissatisfied with their product (they had just come out at that time) I was.

I emailed pics of my platform (very similar to yours) and he suggested I rebuild it, but make it "less stiff". Hmmm. So I did just that. The difference was night and day. I thought about it some more and decided to tear it down and build yet a 3rd platform, but this time make it as "flimsy" as possible without sacrificing safety of course.

The risers on my 3rd iteration are framed out of 1x. I used 1/2" (or was it 7/16"???) OSB as a deck. I used the exact same rubber isolaters as you are but here's the untold secret........the part that REALLY makes it rock the heck out of the platform when the bomb explodes, or the ground trembles.....


DO NOT mount the isolaters at each corner or the edges as one would typically do. Instead, place them more towards the center, allowing the sides of the platform to actually dip down if you were to stand on that edge! I then mounted the BK's on these "flimsy" sides. When the ~ 2lb piston starts going up/down, it takes the whole platform with it. For an even crazier sense of awe, mount another at the opposite side but out of phase. Who needs a D-Box!

Try the intro from the movie Serenity when they are narrating the history. When they show the planet with all the explosions all over it, you can literally jar a filling out if you have the amp up too much.

I found out the hard way that a really sturdy platform will cause a big shaker to perform horribly. I'm glad I rebuilt my platform. Had I not, I would still think to this day that platform mounted shakers are a waste.

Good luck, and can't wait to see the final product!

See the Supercharged 10second II here :
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3131345
See the ConcreteBunker Build w/8x18" IB subs here:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1445270/27l-x-22w-x-10h-diy-concrete-bunker-w-eight-18-ib-subs/0_70

rms8 is offline  
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