Living the dream - Upstairs Theater build - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 348 Old 04-04-2014, 10:53 AM
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See this is what I am talking about Tim and Jeff trying to give someone as many options as they need to make an informed decision. I just love this place

Me of course I am doing the dangerous method Tim discussed above. I think I will re look my decision now. Made sense at the time male to male cord just plug cord into wall first not power protection then turn on the power protection.


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post #272 of 348 Old 04-04-2014, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

Me of course I am doing the dangerous method Tim discussed above. I think I will re look my decision now. Made sense at the time male to male cord just plug cord into wall first not power protection then turn on the power protection.

I think you can see where the danger lies....if you (or God-forbid a grandkid) were to unplug that cable from the wall, you would have 15A of 120v live voltage with all conductors exposed in the open that would definitely kill you in an instant. That's why you always go male to female with the power cables.

To be honest, although I use the decora inlets, I am not in love with them vs. the locking ones from Panamax. It's just too bad they are WAY overpriced and require their own double-gang. This is Panamax's inlet, FYI: http://www.panamax.com/Products/In-Wall/large/POWERKIT-PRO-inlet.php


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post #273 of 348 Old 04-05-2014, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok small update, my LEDs for my 4" cans came in and they are awesome. Put my trims on and I am in wall wash heaven! I'll post better pics later but here's a quickie! . Now here's my problem and I worried this might happen. My GE which is an older 3006 model doesn't love the LEDs. When I turn everything off I have one bulb flickering in one zone. When I power a different zone I get the 4 bulbs on the corner to come on first then the rest flicker once then come on. What can I do short of replacing the GE which isn't an option? The only fix for that one zone seems to be to leave the lights in that zone at the lowest power level to avoid the flicker.

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post #274 of 348 Old 04-05-2014, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Whoops wrong pick that's the incandescents. Here are the LEDs.

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post #275 of 348 Old 04-05-2014, 01:38 PM
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Talk to me brotha.....need an info link to the LEDs you purchased to answer your question. And how many fixtures are on the zone leg you are having trouble with?

I'm not putting you off by saying this, but Lutron has excellent 24/7 customer service where they know the compatibility of most LED products with their different switches. In the end I think they will tell you to get the QS Grafik Eye to effectively handle the load, but I guess we'll see. Here's the number: 1 (888) 588-7661


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post #276 of 348 Old 04-05-2014, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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So two zones with LEDs. Here are the bulbs. One zone has 4 lights the other has 12.

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post #277 of 348 Old 04-06-2014, 12:44 AM
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Still need the model number of those fixtures if you haven't called already....


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post #278 of 348 Old 04-06-2014, 05:18 AM - Thread Starter
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The fixtures are just regular halo/utilitech cans. They dimmed fine when I had incandescents in them.

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post #279 of 348 Old 04-06-2014, 06:09 AM
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I can't help without specific model numbers. I think what you aren't getting is each LED light from each manufacturer has its own proprietary LED driver design that reacts differently to being dimmed. Lutron's technical documents are filled with specific lights from specific manufacturers and their associated compatibility. If you want the mystery solved, you just can't swap out incandescents for screw-in dimmable LEDs without understanding the compatibility issues.

My advice since you are not providing the model number for the LED bulbs - either call Lutron to get to the bottom of it or switch your bulbs back to incandescents, with advice toward the latter. The incandescents will truly dim much more than any LED bulb with the current technologies.


EDIT: If you were trying to provide an info link to the bulbs in post 276, the link is not there, FYI.


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post #280 of 348 Old 04-06-2014, 07:16 AM
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cree and ecosmart with the cree bulbs are awesome for dimming, but still not as linear as the normal incandescent bulbs... but also a ton less heat. i use a lutron motion sense dimmer on them and it does a good job. you also set the low limit the bulb switches on so it doesn't give you useless dimmable range.
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post #281 of 348 Old 04-07-2014, 03:47 AM - Thread Starter
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006XB2102

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post #282 of 348 Old 04-08-2014, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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I added one PAR16 Halogen Reveal bulb to the circuit that wasn't dimming and it helped tremendously. I might just figure out a way to rig it up. I do plan on calling Lutron for help I just haven't had time and I need to re-read the manual to educate myself on the options further. I had my HVAC guys come out today to trim out the theater and it looks great with the grates in and the air on. Definitely glad I decided to zone the theater separately from the rest of upstairs. Money well spent IMHO. Tonight I plan on labeling breakers and installing a pull chain light in my attic access then i should be ready for my FINAL INSPECTION! Then I can get the county out of my business while I finish up.

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post #283 of 348 Old 04-08-2014, 11:08 AM
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Grafik Eyes require a minimum of 25 watts per zone to be active, recognize the load and function properly. Those bulbs are at 3W each, and when you dim them they use less. So you may be over 25 watts when all are on 100%, but less when you dim, causing the flickering issue.

To solve this you can either add a bulb at the end of the chain OR put in an in-line resistor of 25 watts that will appear as an incandescent load to the Grafik Eye. That way ANY wattage over and above the resistor wattage will be recognized by the Grafik Eye.


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post #284 of 348 Old 04-09-2014, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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How do I add said resistor? I think that is ulitmately what I would like to do is add some sort of dummy load. Would I need to cut the wire (turn power off obviously) then add the resistor in a junction box?

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post #285 of 348 Old 04-09-2014, 10:13 AM
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Start at this post, which has links to the products you will need: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1372262/the-once-and-future-theater/510#post_23378981

Also some follow-up discussion between Fred, Mr. Tim and myself.
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post #286 of 348 Old 04-09-2014, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Just got another sick deal. Went by my local av distributor that I got my 5 Berklines from for $800 abd they had a power Lane recliner that is the clone of my Berkline. Since Lane is gone they just had this one chair new in the box left. They sold it to me for $100! So I now can complete my second row and have two sets of 3!

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post #287 of 348 Old 04-17-2014, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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What is everyone using for their cat6 ends? I am going to terminate the drop in the equipment closet and take them straight to a gigabit switch. I am using leviton quick ports for my low voltage plates. Are the monoprice keystones the best bet for the money? Also are their standard cat6 ends ok for the closet end? Which gigabit switch would be best?

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post #288 of 348 Old 04-17-2014, 06:19 PM
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You want to use the Cat6-specific RJ45 Molex ends like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-RJ45-Cat6-Modular-Plugs-25-Pack-85-366/202276269 to go straight into your switch and skip the keystone jacks altogether. If you really want to go with keystone jacks, Monoprice does have the best deals on them, especially in quantity: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&cs_id=1051309&p_id=5384&seq=1&format=2

The same connectors and/or keystones would be used on either end, just make sure they are Cat6 rated. Any 10/100/1000 switch will do unless you are looking to move up to a managed switch for advanced features (i.e. designating and prioritizing internet bandwidth, routing preferences, etc.).


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post #289 of 348 Old 04-18-2014, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I plan on using leviton quick port decora inserts in the theater abd using the molex ends where the cat6 drops enter the rack. That shouldn't cause a problem as long as they are all Cat6 ends right?

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post #290 of 348 Old 04-18-2014, 07:04 PM
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Nope.


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post #291 of 348 Old 04-21-2014, 09:34 AM
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You want to use the Cat6-specific RJ45 Molex ends like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-RJ45-Cat6-Modular-Plugs-25-Pack-85-366/202276269 to go straight into your switch and skip the keystone jacks altogether.
This is what I did. Straight to the switch out of the distro pannel.


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post #292 of 348 Old 04-29-2014, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, all of my networking stuff should be in today so I am just about ready to terminate the CAT6 ends and relocate my modem and router to the rack. Now I have a question about what to do when. I think I am going to do a 16x9 Spandex screen that will be 120-130" wide. Should I build my false wall and hang the screen first or get the projector and fire it onto a sheet to test the screen size? I tested it with a portable Optoma I have for work and 130" from 11' in the first row did not seem to be overwhelming for my wife. Also, for my flooring, I have 5/8" T&G OSB on my floor now. I am doing mostly carpet in the theater but in the bar area in the back there will be hardwoods. I plan on putting down a layer of roofing felt before I install the nail down hardwoods. Should I go around with some acoustic caulk and put on all of the OSB seams and smooth it with a putty knife?

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post #293 of 348 Old 04-29-2014, 12:40 PM
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Should I build my false wall and hang the screen first or get the projector and fire it onto a sheet to test the screen size?

There should be enough focal range within most projector's lens systems to give you flexibility in mounting. Wouldn't you have already run your power and signal cables to the projector location? As a rule of thumb, the front of your projector lens to the screen surface will fall anywhere from 14 to 17 feet, with about 15.5 to 16 feet being optimal range for most projectors. There's no need to hang your projector first, just fiddle with the calculator for your given projector at www.projectorcentral.com to get the ideal distance within the focal range for your intended screen size.
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Should I go around with some acoustic caulk and put on all of the OSB seams and smooth it with a putty knife?

Not necessary.


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post #294 of 348 Old 04-29-2014, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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I ran my cables to 17'. I can move them if needed though.

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post #295 of 348 Old 05-04-2014, 01:54 PM - Thread Starter
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One more coat on the crown and I'm done painting! Then next up is hardwood and carpet.


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post #296 of 348 Old 05-04-2014, 08:47 PM
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Nice work painting! I really like those colors. The walls and ceiling are very similar to my own.

~Dale

 


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post #297 of 348 Old 05-05-2014, 03:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks DVM. We'll see if I end up having to paint the lower level if crown in the front black or not once I get my projector. I will have hardwoods in my bar area and the rest will be carpet. I need to educate myself on the different types of carpet and hunt down a good deal now.

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post #298 of 348 Old 05-06-2014, 08:29 AM
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Looking great! Wait until you get everything fired up, you'll be amazed and pleased at your hard work!

Tobe H.


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post #299 of 348 Old 05-06-2014, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Tobe! Long time no see. Be on the lookout for an invite when I get it up and running.

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post #300 of 348 Old 05-07-2014, 11:25 AM
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Yep, been distracted by other chores/hobbies/diversions...! Look forward to checking it out!
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