As for patterned carpets, a lot of people get carpet from Stanton Carpet, Kane Carpet or one of the Shaw family of carpet brands. I found a wide variability in pricing for the same carpet between local vendors. In the case of Stanton, my lowest quoted price was $54 per square yard and highest was $92 per square yard for the exact same carpeting. Generally speaking, these higher-end patterened carpets are about 2-3 times more costly than the higher-end standard carpets, like DuPont Stainmaster. The patterned carpet is nice, but if you are on a budget, I'd find a nice alternative at the local carpet store or big box home retailer. It will save you a ton of money. Considering the lights will be off most of the time, it might be good to save a couple of bucks in this area IMHO.
I chose the Stanton Royaltron "Lake Boden" pattern, in black, for $28/yard. That was three years ago, but probably hasn't gone up too dramatically. I liked that particular line because it was an intermediate-priced carpet, but felt very nice and was backed by a quality manufacturing name. I am very pleased with my purchase. Bought it from a local flooring company.
That's a great price! The specific Stanton Royaltron style I was looking at and received the above pricing was called Masquerade. Quite a pricing difference within their Royaltron product line.
I apparently know so little about carpet ...
I thought Royaltron was a product line of the carpet. I didn't realize until just now that was the brand name of the polypropelyne fibers. And I thought Stanton was the brand, but I guess Stanton is a company with several brands. Looks like Stanton owns Stanton Carpet, Royal Dutch Carpet, and Antrim Carpet. From the Stanton website:
Royal Dutch Carpets delivers unsurpassed style partnered with sensible price points to dominate the broadloom & fabricated rug category with decorative patterns, tufted wool, flat-woven and lush woven cut pile synthetic patterns. Check out the extensive and fabulous Lake Collection of woven synthetic patterns in a lush, well priced cut pile construction. The more value oriented price points of Royal Dutch give it wide appeal that is in high demand nationwide.
So now, I guess the differentiator is that my "Lake Boden" carpet is a Stanton / Royal Dutch Carpet, whereas your "Masquerade" carpet is apparently a Stanton / Stanton Carpet. That probably makes a huge difference in price, being that mine was from their "sensible price points" line.
Progress. Laid the hardwood that ties into my new office and the bar area yesterday. Now all that is left is the bar hardwoods then the carpet for the theater and riser. Looking at a few carpets from Royal Dutch. Finding I can order them from GA for about half price.
Built my riser and had the carpet installed! Starting to really take form now, I can't believe it!
It seems I'm coming in way out on the tail end of your project. My specialty is creating epic Theaters on "Bonus Room" budgets. So yeah, my concepts and ideas run a bit counter to many who post in the DHTB Forum. I've seen you post in DIY Screens about Spandex, but until this AM I had not searched your Posts / Thread listing and done any reading on your efforts. I have now done so...and cried a little.
You have a nice room going, but the single most glaring issue I'm seeing is the choice of Projector. You've put considerable effort and expense out so it doesn't seem to make sense you'd limit yourself to a sub $1k PJ with as many limitations as the W1070.
But if that is a commitment made that cannot be reversed, then we / I must go forward on that premise. For now at least.
Your Screen Size and mounting Height:
Building up to the bottom of the Soffit Crown, less 3" for Trim is doable, but you will absolutely have to mute the reflections from the Bottom (underside) because of the close proximity of the screen being at right angle to that Bright White surface. Man...it's gotta go! In the least, it needs to be painted to match the Wall color, or in a even deeper shade of the same. Fail to do so and your underside of the Soffitt will light up like a Florescent Ceiling fixture, and worse, it will also reduce the visual quality of the on-screen image.
I'm not starting this out well....am I?
You state you have 93" to work with, so factoring in your 11" Riser, setting the bottom edge of your screen at 30" off the floor ( less the 3" Trim ) leaves you with 60" of screen height. 107" x 60" is 122" diagonal @ 16:9
If you crowd the screen height out to 64" x 114" for 131" diagonal your left with 26" height from floor to the bottom edge of the Screen. That is the minimum according to my calculations and experience...and even then you'll want to keep 6'+ 'ers out of the front row unless they are limited to being reclined.
So now I still gotta say it...the W1070 is stifling your desire for "BIG". Consider is a CIH set-up, 60" height in 2.39:1 would garner you a screen width of 143"....just shy of 12' yet in 16:9 you'd still have a full 122" diagonal . Now while you may not have room for...or the desire for a 143" wide screen, your wish for a full 130" wide screen would become a reality. That would equate to your having 110" @ 16:9 diagonal and 141" diagonal @ 2.39:1.
Also, the reduction in height to 54" before Trim allows you more leeway as far as you screen height placement, as relates to Seating location and Riser height.
But yeah....none of the above just won't float with the W1070 because it simply cannot handle the adjustments required, nor supply the needed lumen output.
Now regardless of what you wind up with as a Screen Size/ PJ combo, if a Spandex Screen is in the offing, here are the answers to your questions in the order asked.
Select straight, Kiln-Dried Clear Premium 2x4s and rip to a full 1.5" x 3" for the outside Frame, and 1.5" x 2.75" for Frame Supports. Use a good, penetrating Primer / Sealer (oil based) on all ripped lumber before cutting to length / assembly. Use "White"....not Black.
Cut all pieces and check thoroughly for straightness and true ( twist ) Replace any "Frame" pieces that are not perfect.
The Frame should be constructed so that the depth of the frame is 3" and the supports are flush to the rear, leaving a 1/4" set back. That is all the set back you need if the Spandex is properly stretched.
Corners should be Mitered, and braced diagonally after assembly. Use a Carpenters Framing Square on the Corners...the bigger the better.
Using some extra lumber as temporary braces (1/2" Plywood Triangles work well) diagonally across the Corners, manipulate the frame so that you get a precise measurement diagonally from both sets of opposing corners, then clearly mark the position on the wood frame at the edges of those braces for reference, then screw the temporary braces into one side, apply wood glue to the inside of the joint, then place the pieces together and screw down the temporary braces. ( don't let then get any glue on them!)
After having given the corners time to completely dry, drill small diameter diagonal guide holes from each side (@ high speed) then slightly countersink a small depression at each guide hole to prevent splitting...and then screw together using 1-5/8" to 2" long Coarse Threaded Utility (drywall) Screws... but stop short of sinking them into the countersink depressions....do the last bit of tightening by hand. Re-check your diagonal measurements along the way (...let me know if you need a diagram of the Frame build...)
Now you make up the diagonal 2.75" x 1.5" corner Braces, using opposing Mitered corners. These you only "glue" into place for now, or barely screw in but without tightening down. They get tightened down after you place the central Vertical braces.
Lastly you cut the Center / Inside Braces (vertically set) and if you do not get them to slide into place snugly, then make them a tiny bit too small and the use a very small amount of Gorilla Glue (it expands) to get them firmly set. Better to cut them precisely though.
The Corner and Interior braces are critical as to keeping the Frame straight during stretching...though Spandex puts far less stress on a Frame than something like BOC or Mfg Screen cloth. But if they do not fit precisely and are then screwed tight, they can spring the frame out of true.
If care is taken to get all the "straight" wood cut precisely, and assembled correctly, you should wind up with a perfectly flat, squared frame that will easily be strong enough to handle the tension two layers of Spandex being stretched will demand
OK...hanging the durn thingee.
Adding 1" x 3" ripped French Cleat strips to the inside top of the Frame and on corresponding spots on the wall is far better than junking up you presentation wall with a "stand". Also, unless your Crown stands off the wall tray junction considerably, if you first hang the wrapped screen where you want it, then apply the Trim, the top edge of the Trim can very slightly overlap the Crown if need be.
The instructions above might seen to be more involved than they really are. I'm just trying to give you all the particulars.
I wish I could grant you your wish for a wider screen, but unless you build up a second 6" level on the Riser (...and I advise against that...) you can't go bigger (wider) at 16:9 than I have suggested. Even if you did that, the most you'd gain is 2 additional inches in screen height, which equates to only 62" x 110" (126" diagonal).
If I could help sell that W1070 for you to let you switch to a Panny 8000 for a 2.39:1 CIH screen experience, (...they are on sale right now, ya know? ) I'd do it for you in a heartbeat. That Sir, would leave you fully in the proverbial Driver's Seat. No loss of 16:9 size, no hoorrrrible Horizontal Bars, and a epic sized screens for BluRay DVD viewing.
That call that "Twistin' da Blade"......don't they?
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
I really appreciate you taking the time to put so much effort into your response. The crown is painted a light gray in flat paint. I have shined various lights on it and get very little if any reflection but I will take note of your comments on that and make the adjustments you mentioned as necessary.
On to the projector. I completely understand your point on the w1070 and the AE8000 is becoming tougher to not bite on but I am planning on converting to a 4K setup in the next 3 years and possibly even a scope screen so for now I really want to get the biggest reasonable 16x9 setup. I think this will mostly be used to watch live sports and play video games on and watch a movie a week on. I know I could do that with a plasma but I want to go ahead and have the screen wall as we have never had a projector and I think the family would love it. I agree with you on the riser height also. I guess I could always take the piece of crown down on the screen wall and just mount the screen to the face of the soffit? That would afford me the ability to move it as high up as I wanted to with no issues.
Even still, if 60" screen height is all you can aspire to (...hanging the Screen on the soffit seems pretty bad considering the quality of the room's build...) then by my reasoning a very wide 60" tall 2.39:1 screen that can encompass a "large as possible" 16:9 seems the way to go. "Your Cake and Eat it too..." kinda thing.
Never give up....never surrender...that's my mantra.
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
"I'm laughing at the superior intellect"
Middle Atlantic makes rubber gromments for any size hole in those racks, both with and without a thin pie-cut membrane in the center for wire penetrations. Personally, I would get a roll of their flexible grommet material, the GR-30 and just cut to the length that's needed: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=REG&A=details
Trying to upload this from my phone but I got my goalpost up today. BIG, I hope you approve!