Living the dream - Upstairs Theater build - Page 4 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 7Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #91 of 347 Old 12-28-2012, 08:10 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Spaceman, I agree, that's what I'm going to do.
wraunch is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #92 of 347 Old 12-30-2012, 07:47 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Small update. We have a little over half of the soffit done. I am thinking about doing two arcs on the front soffit. The first would be at the regular soffit height abd it would step up one time. Anyone done that and have tips on the best way to do it? How do you layout the arc(s) on the ceiling? Is there any reason I wouldn't want to just drywall the soffit? I don't need it to run wire, hide HVAC, etc. I have thought about leaving the drywall off the bottom abd stuffing the soffit with insulation to act as a bass trap but I don't know if I will run into issues with my inspector if I do that.
wraunch is online now  
post #93 of 347 Old 01-08-2013, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Quick update. I just found a ridiculous deal on a MA rack. Not that I need it now but I found the following rack on Craigslist locally.

http://customavrack.com/Products/274-middle-atlantic-erk-4020-40u-rack-enclosure.aspx

It's a 40 U rack that's 74" tall. Way bigger than I need but I figure why not have some headroom?!?! Here's the kicker, it's slammed full of shelves, extra rails, screws, etc, all for the price of $50!!! It has a little bit of paint around the edge of it but I can clean that up in 15 mins. I guess I need to go by some Powerball tickets today!
wraunch is online now  
post #94 of 347 Old 01-08-2013, 05:00 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21


This thing is a beast!
wraunch is online now  
post #95 of 347 Old 01-09-2013, 03:19 AM
Member
 
hamptonht48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Great find! And just enough room for a small monitor at the top! smile.gif
hamptonht48 is offline  
post #96 of 347 Old 01-09-2013, 06:40 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Yeah the only problem is if I need to change any configurations the rack faces into the theater so I don't know how much help the monitor would be back there. I would love to be proven wrong on that though. One small issue, I measured the rack and it is 20" deep and I have about 22" from the front of the stud wall to the angled ceiling behind it. Is there any issue with the rack top running right against the angled ceiling? It should still get plenty of airflow I think. Here is a small drawing of it I did in paint.

wraunch is online now  
post #97 of 347 Old 01-09-2013, 07:53 AM
Member
 
hamptonht48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
I think as long as you have adequate airflow from the roof soffits past the rack, shouldn't be an issue. However, it's probably going to be pretty warm there in the summer! You could bring it forward a bit, and fur out the front where it goes into the wall, either with studs or with a decorative frame of sorts, adding some more space behind it. Or cut off the top and shorten it some....!
hamptonht48 is offline  
post #98 of 347 Old 01-09-2013, 09:06 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
I wonder how difficult it would be to cut the top at the same angle as the ceiling? I thought about just furring it out some but I wouldnt want it to stick out too much.
wraunch is online now  
post #99 of 347 Old 01-09-2013, 09:23 AM
Member
 
hamptonht48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Since it's not going to be seen from the back by anyone else, probably not too hard. You could then strengthen the top with some cross bracing screwed into it, either metal or wood, and you'd be set. A good metal cutting jigsaw blade, or even sawzall would do it.
hamptonht48 is offline  
post #100 of 347 Old 01-10-2013, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
I think it'll fit right up against the drywall. I'll probably do 1/2" in there anyway to save money.

Edit: just realized this was post 100, time to get to work!!!
wraunch is online now  
post #101 of 347 Old 01-26-2013, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Ok, working on lighting. Trying to figure out how much power I need. My electrician seems to think I can get by with 60 amps. I will have 23 6" cans, 14 3" cans, 7 keyless lights, 2 fluorescent fixtures in closets, one dedicated 20 amp circuit to my av rack, a mini fridge, countertop microwave, led rope in the soffit and various wall outlets. How do I calculate the amount of amps I will need?
wraunch is online now  
post #102 of 347 Old 01-29-2013, 03:39 AM
Member
 
hamptonht48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Hey! Did your electrician figure in the upstairs HVAC, also? If you know what kind of unit it is, he'll be able to figure out total amperage necessary (the HVAC will be on a separate circuit, of course). If I remember right, it's a value based on total wattage plus a percentage for instant loads, etc. like when the AC unit starts up. Bad news is, you'll have to use arc fault breakers for all but the ground fault circuit to a wet area (i.e. bathroom), and they are pricey! Lowe's had them for just as cheap as I found elsewhere. There are online calculators for the circuit loads, but he probably already has that. That will help you with the wiring size, too, for the incoming main wire. Of course, I"m assuming you're wiring a brand new panel serviced from the first floor main panel.

Good luck!
hamptonht48 is offline  
post #103 of 347 Old 01-29-2013, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Tobe, the HVAC guy told me what amperage he will need for the condenser and air handler. I need about an additional 30 amps between the two of them. He has me going to an 8 kW heatstrip from my 5kW. I am wondering if that is really necessary. The only time I have ever seen my aux heat come on was this past week with the ice we got locally.

Did you have to get a change of service to add your sub panel upstairs or did you have more than 200 amps coming in? If you did get a change what did that run you? We are about to make some big progress once I get my bonus in February. I plan on being rough-in ready in March.
wraunch is online now  
post #104 of 347 Old 01-29-2013, 10:47 AM
Member
 
hamptonht48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
No, didn't have to have change of service, probably because the house was designed with the option of having the second floor finished prior to buying it. It had one line upstairs already (an outlet and the couple of lights), so they had planned for upgrades.

You can take the information you got from the HVAC guy and the electrician will be able to figure out the load for either an 8 kW or 5 kW heatstrip. There will be a couple of numbers for peak load values, etc. (I think, from memory, so don't hold me to it!) for the unit you'll get that he can calculate from. It might be neglible, and if so, better to have a little more than you need. Of course, your insulation will be top notch, so that will help! smile.gif I got a pretty good deal in that it was the last year for the energy improvement deductions (not sure if they still have that for your current year taxes) and I was able to get a higher SEER rating AC unit for about the same price as the next one down after the deduction.
hamptonht48 is offline  
post #105 of 347 Old 01-29-2013, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
On another note I just missed on two GEs the past two days on Ebay. One I was bidding on went for $150 and I wasn't watching the auction closely enough and I just had another new one go for $300. I need a six zone if anyone sees a great deal. I'm going to hold out until I find one for <$300.
wraunch is online now  
post #106 of 347 Old 02-01-2013, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
All, I wonder if there are any code issues with me mounting my rack as I described above? Also, my studs are 16" O.C. in this space and the rack is 18" wide on a load bearing wall. I imagine I will have to add some studs and header it off in order to build this into the wall? Do you just flush the face of the rack with the drywall or should I bring it out further to flush it up with some casing?
wraunch is online now  
post #107 of 347 Old 02-01-2013, 12:20 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
LeBon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pebble Beach, CA
Posts: 664
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked: 29
I would recess the rack into the casing at least 1/2" or 3/4".
LeBon is offline  
post #108 of 347 Old 02-01-2013, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
So the idea is to get the edge just behind the casing?
wraunch is online now  
post #109 of 347 Old 02-01-2013, 12:47 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
LeBon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Pebble Beach, CA
Posts: 664
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked: 29
That would be a nice look -- similar to the picture above. However, you can recess as much as you want, for example to accomodate a door.
LeBon is offline  
post #110 of 347 Old 02-07-2013, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Small update, sub panel is going in next week and we will be installing HVAC the following week.

I hit the jackpot on some dimmable LEDs for my can lights today. I picked up 30 of these bad boys by CREE>

http://www.cree.com/lighting/products/indoor/downlights-us/lr6-dr1000

These things retail for $120 each but I found a freight shipper that was stuck with some for $15 each!!! I am trying to get him to sell me the whole shipment of 100 but he is resisting. We'll see.
wraunch is online now  
post #111 of 347 Old 02-08-2013, 10:06 AM
AVS Special Member
 
NicksHitachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 3,533
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Liked: 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by wraunch View Post

Ok, working on lighting. Trying to figure out how much power I need. My electrician seems to think I can get by with 60 amps. I will have 23 6" cans, 14 3" cans, 7 keyless lights, 2 fluorescent fixtures in closets, one dedicated 20 amp circuit to my av rack, a mini fridge, countertop microwave, led rope in the soffit and various wall outlets. How do I calculate the amount of amps I will need?

Hi Wraunch,

I recommend at least 40A to the rack if your going to do a serious audio setup. Depending on your sub choice(s) they could easily max out a 20A line.

Don't know how I missed an upstairs NC theater, Sub'd biggrin.gif
NicksHitachi is offline  
post #112 of 347 Old 02-09-2013, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Thanks for signing up Nick. On the road to Wilmington as I speak.
wraunch is online now  
post #113 of 347 Old 02-10-2013, 06:53 AM
AVS Special Member
 
NicksHitachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 3,533
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Liked: 118
^cool man, if your ever bored hit me up!
NicksHitachi is offline  
post #114 of 347 Old 02-11-2013, 07:29 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Where do you guys do your research to decide on what speakers to get? I plan on looking through the audio forums here first. I haven't ever really had high quality bookshelf or floor standing speakers but I know it when I see/hear it. I don't want to blow the bank account but I do want some good stuff as I plan on having these speakers for 5-10 years or longer. I am a deal hunter by nature and I will definitely look for a good deal on slightly used speakers if that is the best option but I'm really just trying to get some opinions on what you did to make your decision. Yes, I will be going to the local hi-fi shops to listen to tons of them before I make a decision. I will have an AT screen so I can use bookshelfs, floorstanding, anything I choose.
wraunch is online now  
post #115 of 347 Old 02-12-2013, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Ok I found a good deal locally on a full set of Klipsch icon set including LCR, two sets of side surrounds and rear surrounds. Do you think these are powerful enough for my large room?
wraunch is online now  
post #116 of 347 Old 02-13-2013, 03:37 AM
Member
 
hamptonht48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 97
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Which model of the Icons were you looking at? I can't speak authoritatively on the nuances of speaker matching to room size, there are folks here far more knowledgable than I on that. But, I do have a set of Klipsch RS-41 rear surrounds that work very well with the rest of the group, which is the Atlantic Technology 4400 series and 642e subwoofer. I've read that some folks find Klipsch's on the "brassy" side, due to the horn tweeter construction, but, like anything, it's a matter of personal preference. You want to make sure that they can be driven safely by your AVR or Pre/Pro at the levels you wish without clipping or distortion, but the best bet is to listen to (like you said) speakers in environments close to what you might be hearing in your own room. Also, of course, budget is a major consideration! I listened to quite a few speakers, not knowing anything about the higher quality sound from better built ones, but I took some material I was familiar with (Iron Man bluray) so I could compare more accurately. Also, room correction and other factors from your sources will alter the sound, sometimes greatly. Check out reviews from various sites such as this one, or Hometheater.com, HomeTheaterShack.com, etc. which helps you see where you might consider . Keep in mind placement will be very important, since you will need to build for that. Since you're going with an AT screen, floor standing models can work, though you may have to elevate those, too, to get them to face the audience correctly.

Better to have a little headroom and have a little more than you need than come up short wishing you went with that next step up! the speakers, projector and AV equipment were almost half my upstairs budget! And I still got a pretty good deal, I think!

Good luck!
hamptonht48 is offline  
post #117 of 347 Old 02-13-2013, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Here are the Klipsch speakers I have found the deal on.

WF-35
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882780082

WS-24
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882780087

WC-24
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882780086

WB-14
http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-WB-14-Furniture-Grade-Bookshelf-Cabernet/dp/B001CDX7D6

I would get two WF-35s, 2 WS-24s, a WC-24 and two pairs of WB-14s for $1000. My only concern is that I was planning on using in ceiling speakers for my rear channels so I dont know that I will use the WS-24s. Would they be better used as my side surrounds? I was thinking of using the two pairs of WB-14s for my sides.

Thoughts?
wraunch is online now  
post #118 of 347 Old 02-13-2013, 06:29 AM
AVS Special Member
 
J_P_A's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: L.A. - Lower Alabama
Posts: 4,090
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
Liked: 250
Chalk me up as another that's missed this thread somehow. Maybe you should change the thread title to, "The Knockers Thread," and put some pictures of door knockers in your first post. I be that would get some traffic smile.gif

I'm signed up now, keep the progress posts coming!

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
J_P_A is online now  
post #119 of 347 Old 02-13-2013, 06:40 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
wraunch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Clayton, NC
Posts: 776
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Liked: 21
Come on in, the water's just fine!
wraunch is online now  
post #120 of 347 Old 02-13-2013, 06:56 AM
AVS Special Member
 
NicksHitachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Wilmington, NC
Posts: 3,533
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 56 Post(s)
Liked: 118
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Chalk me up as another that's missed this thread somehow. Maybe you should change the thread title to, "The Knockers Thread," and put some pictures of door knockers in your first post. I be that would get some traffic smile.gif

I'm signed up now, keep the progress posts coming!

^There goes the neighborhood tongue.gif
NicksHitachi is offline  
Reply Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off