Sliding Track Ceiling Mount for 42" Plasma TV - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 86 Old 05-30-2012, 07:41 AM
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Looking pretty slick
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post #62 of 86 Old 05-30-2012, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
 
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I have to give props to Sanus, the maker of the ceiling mout for the TV. One of the horizontal bars came with its safety/dust cap broken. I called the support number on their website and a man from Indiana answered. I explained the broken item to him and, even though I had no part number, etc, he understood exactly what I meant. He could ship me out just a replacement cap, but he says he personally hates pulling out the broken ones so he is sending me an entire replacement bar with the cap already installed!

VERY good customer service, I would recommend them in a heartbeat for that reason. The mount being VERY study and well built is the other reason.
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post #63 of 86 Old 06-06-2012, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
 
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The only part I am having custom built is the cover - I realized I needed to be able to access the track in the future, so I am having a local metal fabrication shop build me a cover with piano hinges built into it so it can be opened as needed. That should be done in the next few days. It will be painted black and installed and then the tracking is done! I will edit the first post to show the parts used and the final construction.
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post #64 of 86 Old 06-11-2012, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
 
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I am going to cross post this in the DIY forum, for obvious reasons. The final cost was slightly over $500, which is not bad considering the cheapest I could find it premade by someone else was $3200! So here we go, pics of the final results, followed by what I did to get there.


Flush against the wall

142.jpg


Side view against the wall

143.jpg


45 degree angle near the wall - perfect for playing the Wii or anything which requires a LOT of room

144.jpg


In the center of the room - it is at a 90 degree angle compared to when it is against the wall, EDIT: WOW! Due to being so much closer, it almost looks at big as the screen - it definately is not. smile.gif

145.jpg


Rear view of the mount. It is a Sanus LC1A Ceiling Mount $130

146.jpg


Here you can see the Cable Carrier Chain by IGUS - what I call the tank tread part IGU-E08-10-028-0 $100

147.jpg


Johnson Hardware 200SD Commercial Grade Sliding Bypass Door hardware. Two 6 foot rails, four rollers, two rail mounted door stops, wrench $200

148.jpg


Here you can see two pics of it all mounted. I used 3/4 inch one hole strap to hold it to the ceiling, I used electrical tape on every other or every third knuckle to help ensure the wires stay inside the chain. Home Depot in the electrical parts $2

149.jpg

150.jpg



The cover was fabricated by a local metal fabrication shop. It is aluminum and has piano hinges on it so I can open them to get inside. $70




The door rollers were mounted onto the ceiling plate of the Sanus mount, the extra bolt length sticking through the mount was cut off flush. The two door rails were mounted onto the ceiling. This was easy for me as I have a double layer ceiling - the first layer is 1/2 inch OSB and the second is 1/2 inch drywall (with Gree Glue between them). This meant I did not have to try to find studs to mount the rails. MOUNTING TO STUDS IS VITAL!!! There will be a lot of weight on these rails. The rails can each hold a 400 pound door, so the rails and rollers will not even break a sweat. Two rails are used to ensure there is no side to side wobble when the TV is moved, not for the weight.


After the tracks were on the ceiling, the ceiling plate/roller combo was slid onto the tracks and rolled back and forth to check for binding - adjust as needed. There are 14 holes on each 6 foot track, and I used 14 x 1 3/4 wood screws to attack it to the ceiling.


The wiring was run through the ceiling, between the two rails. Both the electrical and the HDMI cables were run through the carrier chain, which was affixed to the ceiling from the entrance point to the center point by the one hole straps (4 of them). This provided strength and stability to the chain. MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS LYING SIDEWAYS, WITH THE OPENING PARALLEL TO THE CEILING! If you have the opening facing the ceiling, the chain will dropp and hang very low, causing binding and ugliness...as well as gnashing of teeth and much lamentation! I used tie wraps to ensure the cables could not come out in the part affixed to the ceiling. Tie wraps caught the rollers on the other parts, so I used electrical tape on every other knuckle to do the same thing.

I had to tie wrap a wood shim on the inside of the rollers to prevent the chain from between the roller and the mount and binding. I had a lot of wood shims left over from installing a door. smile.gif


Basic parts list:

Sanus Ceiling Mount Kit LC1A
http://www.standsandmounts.com/sanusvisionmountuniversaltiltandswivelceilingmountforflatpaneltvsupto55blacklc1.aspx

6 feet of IGUS Energy Chain Cable Organizer IGU-E08-10-028-0
http://www.cableorganizer.com/igus/echain-series-e08-chain.html

Johnson Hardware Sliding Door 200SD Parts
QTY:2 200-0060 60" (5'- 0") [1524mm] TRACK LENGTH
QTY:1 1712 ADJUSTMENT WRENCH
QTY: 4 2020 200 SERIES DOOR HANGER
QTY: 2 2055 TRACK STOP

QTY:4 One Hold Strap by EMT - found at Home Depot in the electrical section

HDMI Cable, Tie Wraps, wood screws, electrical tape, outlet plug (female end), and other assorted minor items.

Some minor touch up still needs to be done, and the end cap needs to be painted and installed, but everything works as I wanted it to. I kept the entire thing a secret from the wife who LOVES it. smile.gif
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post #65 of 86 Old 06-11-2012, 05:59 PM
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That looks awesome! I'm guessing the end cap will keep the piano hinge parts from opening unless you want it to?

I have only two minor suggestions (From a visual design perspective) You might want to try and "extend" the cover piece all the way across the ceiling so it looks like a beam runs across instead of stopping in the middle of the room. And the other would depend on how much the mount will rotate, but if it rotates 180 degrees, you could "mount" a framed picture on the back of the mount that is the same size as the TV (and maybe a "padded" area at the wall) so you can just push it up against the wall and the back will be your picture, no special movable picture needed? (or if you find you don't ever use it when it's against the wall and it only rotates 90 degrees, you could arrange the same thing.)

Nice work, to bad I can't figure out how to use this in my house too.

My "Route 66 Basement Theater" Build Thread
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post #66 of 86 Old 06-11-2012, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Thanks for the input!

I asked my wife about extending it and she said not to. I agree with you, extend it for symmetry sake, but she wants it to stop there so stop there it will. smile.gif

I am going to print a picture of Heinz Field onto a cloth that will be velcro'd to the top of the TV and more permanently affixed to the bottom. When the TV not in use, it is pulled up and becomes just another picture, when in use it is easily dropped down to expose the screen. The screen WILL reflect a lot of light, so this is a must. The mount only rotates 90 degrees, so more is not an option. I was going to have it rotate against the wall, but the back just did not present a clean enough surface, even if I tried to cover it up.

I am also going to add brushes to the two cover edges, so the slot is fully blocked but the pole can still slide through.
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post #67 of 86 Old 06-11-2012, 07:36 PM
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awesome, sounds like you have it all worked out. (although does your wife think you asked her about extending the run of the tv? from one side of the room to the other?, or just the "box look" of the cover? They can be confused easily with this kind of stuff, mine is not visual at all)

My "Route 66 Basement Theater" Build Thread
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post #68 of 86 Old 06-12-2012, 07:15 AM
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Well done sir. Well done cool.gif
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post #69 of 86 Old 06-12-2012, 07:54 AM
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That turned out awesome! I admire you for having a clear vision and sticking with it. Nice work!

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post #70 of 86 Old 10-14-2012, 06:29 PM
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where were those ceiling rails purchased? I 've searching a lot for them! Just what I've been looking for...

Thanks
Harold
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post #71 of 86 Old 10-14-2012, 07:01 PM
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post #72 of 86 Old 10-14-2012, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Yep, the 200SD series is what I used - I got the initial idea for using sliding door tracks from BIG, then went beefier due to paranoia.

After a few months of use, I can say it works just as well as when I first built it.
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post #73 of 86 Old 10-14-2012, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hchattaway View Post

where were those ceiling rails purchased? I 've searching a lot for them! Just what I've been looking for...
Thanks
Harold

Here is another option; http://www.mcmaster.com/#strut-channel-systems/=jq57dn

I used several of the heavy duty trolleys and sections of strut to make bypass storage shelving in my old garage.. worked great.

You could probably find them a bit cheaper elsewhere. Mcmaster is wonderful for carrying everything in stock, but you pay for it...

Cybrsage, cool setup, that is a great idea! I wish I could convince my wife we need that in our living room!

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post #74 of 86 Old 01-15-2013, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Thanks! You DO need it - how else are you going to move the TV all around the room?
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post #75 of 86 Old 01-23-2013, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

The only part I am having custom built is the cover - I realized I needed to be able to access the track in the future, so I am having a local metal fabrication shop build me a cover with piano hinges built into it so it can be opened as needed. That should be done in the next few days. It will be painted black and installed and then the tracking is done! I will edit the first post to show the parts used and the final construction.
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post #76 of 86 Old 01-23-2013, 05:00 PM
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What size did you get the metal that was fabricated.I need to know at least the with if possible.
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post #77 of 86 Old 01-28-2013, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
 
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It is aluminum, 1/16" thick. 3 1/2" wide, 3" tall (ceiling to where the horizontal part starts) and there is a 3" gap between the two halves for the post to slide between. The vertical part is attached to a thin piano hinge, which is attached to the ceiling horizontal piece. That is 31/2" wide also, with holes cut in it to match the ones in the ceiling track. The bolts run through the ceiling track, then through the cover plate, then through the ceiling. This was done because the rollers need all the room inside the ceiling track, so the cover has to be outside the track and not inside it.
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post #78 of 86 Old 10-22-2013, 08:09 AM
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This is great. I have been looking for this for quite some time now.

However, i don't think that i am able to do it bymyself. Cyberspace, would you be willing to make one for me and sell it to me?

I would really appreciate it. 

Thanks !!!

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post #79 of 86 Old 10-22-2013, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Sorry, once and done for me. Twas a bit of work to create, but well worth it in the end. Take your time, it is not hard but you have to be careful else you will be doing parts over.
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post #80 of 86 Old 10-29-2013, 10:38 AM
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Hi Cybrsage:

 

I read your post on this issue but none of the pictures were available.  I'm customizing a Scraproom and would like to have the TV mounted from the ceiling so that it can be movable, especially since I need all the wall space to build shelve units and I don't want to take up the space by mounting the TV on the wall.  Would like to see your pictures to get an idea of what you did and see if it's something I could do.  Can you repost the pictures or email me a link to where I can view the pictures.  Thanks in advance.  (sop130@aol.com).

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post #81 of 86 Old 10-29-2013, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
 
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post #82 of 86 Old 11-16-2013, 09:19 AM
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Ok, thanks anyway.

 

I will use your guide and try to build it by myself then.

 

However, i could not find the hardware from Johnson Hardware in Europe but i could find something similar.

do you think i could do the job with something like these ? for the track and wheels. 

 

http://www.questhardware.co.uk/architectural-hardware/sliding-door-gear/series-50/top-track-steel-galvanised-and-drilled.html

 

and 

 

http://www.questhardware.co.uk/architectural-hardware/sliding-door-gear/series-50/50-series-hanger-steel-260kg-capacity.html

 

And something else. You said that you use the Sanus mount because the tv is vertical below the hanger ( due to the bent ) . Do you still think that if the pole was straight, it would cause problems to the balance of the tv ?

 

thanks again 

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post #83 of 86 Old 11-16-2013, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
 
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It depends on how much weight that track can hold. I certainly went overkill with mine, but I am a bit paranoid. If your TV weighs 45 kg then you need to make sure the track can hold at least that much. The weight will be spread out amongst the two tracks (if you use the same method I did to prevent swinging), so it will not be too bad.

The straight pole should work, I was just a little paranoid again about the sheering force applied to the rails, through the wheels, of the mount trying to angle some due to the center of gravity not being centered. If you make sure the rails can each hold 50 kg, and use two of them, you will be more than adequately covered for such a thing.
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post #84 of 86 Old 11-16-2013, 01:24 PM
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These tracks and wheels can hold a lot of weight. 260kg eack and the tv weights 16kg. Its 55inch.

I just needed your thoughts on whether that type of wheels will do the job or whether there would be some other problem which I cannot see.

I will try it with those and let you know of the results smile.gif
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post #85 of 86 Old 06-22-2014, 12:27 PM
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I don't understand the cable carrier. I built this thing in my poolhouse but when sliding on the track the TV needs different amounts of slack.
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post #86 of 86 Old 10-02-2014, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lrodptl View Post
I don't understand the cable carrier. I built this thing in my poolhouse but when sliding on the track the TV needs different amounts of slack.
From talking to him and reading this thread, this plastic cable chain was used to hold the cables:



http://www.cableorganizer.com/igus/e...e08-chain.html


You have to turn it sideways so that it holds itself up when it moves. If you hold it one way it droops, but turn it 90 degrees and it will hold itself up, yet be able to move back and forth. If you look at these pictures, you will see the cable comes in on the top in the first one and on the right side (center of the room) in the second one. It heads left, does a 180 at the end and returns to the right in the second picture. The TV, when against the wall, has the cable straight (first picture0. When the TV is in the middle of the room, the cable is bent in half (second picture0.


TV in the Middle of the Room:



TV against the Wall:





Use the track lighting for orientation.

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Last edited by htpcforever; 10-02-2014 at 09:03 AM. Reason: clarity
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