My Theatre Build
VERY good customer service, I would recommend them in a heartbeat for that reason. The mount being VERY study and well built is the other reason.
Flush against the wall
Side view against the wall
45 degree angle near the wall - perfect for playing the Wii or anything which requires a LOT of room
In the center of the room - it is at a 90 degree angle compared to when it is against the wall, EDIT: WOW! Due to being so much closer, it almost looks at big as the screen - it definately is not.
Rear view of the mount. It is a Sanus LC1A Ceiling Mount $130
Here you can see the Cable Carrier Chain by IGUS - what I call the tank tread part IGU-E08-10-028-0 $100
Johnson Hardware 200SD Commercial Grade Sliding Bypass Door hardware. Two 6 foot rails, four rollers, two rail mounted door stops, wrench $200
Here you can see two pics of it all mounted. I used 3/4 inch one hole strap to hold it to the ceiling, I used electrical tape on every other or every third knuckle to help ensure the wires stay inside the chain. Home Depot in the electrical parts $2
The cover was fabricated by a local metal fabrication shop. It is aluminum and has piano hinges on it so I can open them to get inside. $70
The door rollers were mounted onto the ceiling plate of the Sanus mount, the extra bolt length sticking through the mount was cut off flush. The two door rails were mounted onto the ceiling. This was easy for me as I have a double layer ceiling - the first layer is 1/2 inch OSB and the second is 1/2 inch drywall (with Gree Glue between them). This meant I did not have to try to find studs to mount the rails. MOUNTING TO STUDS IS VITAL!!! There will be a lot of weight on these rails. The rails can each hold a 400 pound door, so the rails and rollers will not even break a sweat. Two rails are used to ensure there is no side to side wobble when the TV is moved, not for the weight.
After the tracks were on the ceiling, the ceiling plate/roller combo was slid onto the tracks and rolled back and forth to check for binding - adjust as needed. There are 14 holes on each 6 foot track, and I used 14 x 1 3/4 wood screws to attack it to the ceiling.
The wiring was run through the ceiling, between the two rails. Both the electrical and the HDMI cables were run through the carrier chain, which was affixed to the ceiling from the entrance point to the center point by the one hole straps (4 of them). This provided strength and stability to the chain. MAKE SURE THE CHAIN IS LYING SIDEWAYS, WITH THE OPENING PARALLEL TO THE CEILING! If you have the opening facing the ceiling, the chain will dropp and hang very low, causing binding and ugliness...as well as gnashing of teeth and much lamentation! I used tie wraps to ensure the cables could not come out in the part affixed to the ceiling. Tie wraps caught the rollers on the other parts, so I used electrical tape on every other knuckle to do the same thing.
I had to tie wrap a wood shim on the inside of the rollers to prevent the chain from between the roller and the mount and binding. I had a lot of wood shims left over from installing a door.
Basic parts list:
Sanus Ceiling Mount Kit LC1A
6 feet of IGUS Energy Chain Cable Organizer IGU-E08-10-028-0
Johnson Hardware Sliding Door 200SD Parts
QTY:2 200-0060 60" (5'- 0") [1524mm] TRACK LENGTH
QTY:1 1712 ADJUSTMENT WRENCH
QTY: 4 2020 200 SERIES DOOR HANGER
QTY: 2 2055 TRACK STOP
QTY:4 One Hold Strap by EMT - found at Home Depot in the electrical section
HDMI Cable, Tie Wraps, wood screws, electrical tape, outlet plug (female end), and other assorted minor items.
Some minor touch up still needs to be done, and the end cap needs to be painted and installed, but everything works as I wanted it to. I kept the entire thing a secret from the wife who LOVES it.
I have only two minor suggestions (From a visual design perspective) You might want to try and "extend" the cover piece all the way across the ceiling so it looks like a beam runs across instead of stopping in the middle of the room. And the other would depend on how much the mount will rotate, but if it rotates 180 degrees, you could "mount" a framed picture on the back of the mount that is the same size as the TV (and maybe a "padded" area at the wall) so you can just push it up against the wall and the back will be your picture, no special movable picture needed? (or if you find you don't ever use it when it's against the wall and it only rotates 90 degrees, you could arrange the same thing.)
Nice work, to bad I can't figure out how to use this in my house too.
I asked my wife about extending it and she said not to. I agree with you, extend it for symmetry sake, but she wants it to stop there so stop there it will.
I am going to print a picture of Heinz Field onto a cloth that will be velcro'd to the top of the TV and more permanently affixed to the bottom. When the TV not in use, it is pulled up and becomes just another picture, when in use it is easily dropped down to expose the screen. The screen WILL reflect a lot of light, so this is a must. The mount only rotates 90 degrees, so more is not an option. I was going to have it rotate against the wall, but the back just did not present a clean enough surface, even if I tried to cover it up.
I am also going to add brushes to the two cover edges, so the slot is fully blocked but the pole can still slide through.
My Theatre Build
After a few months of use, I can say it works just as well as when I first built it.
Here is another option; http://www.mcmaster.com/#strut-channel-systems/=jq57dn
I used several of the heavy duty trolleys and sections of strut to make bypass storage shelving in my old garage.. worked great.
You could probably find them a bit cheaper elsewhere. Mcmaster is wonderful for carrying everything in stock, but you pay for it...
Cybrsage, cool setup, that is a great idea! I wish I could convince my wife we need that in our living room!
The only part I am having custom built is the cover - I realized I needed to be able to access the track in the future, so I am having a local metal fabrication shop build me a cover with piano hinges built into it so it can be opened as needed. That should be done in the next few days. It will be painted black and installed and then the tracking is done! I will edit the first post to show the parts used and the final construction.
This is great. I have been looking for this for quite some time now.
However, i don't think that i am able to do it bymyself. Cyberspace, would you be willing to make one for me and sell it to me?
I would really appreciate it.
I read your post on this issue but none of the pictures were available. I'm customizing a Scraproom and would like to have the TV mounted from the ceiling so that it can be movable, especially since I need all the wall space to build shelve units and I don't want to take up the space by mounting the TV on the wall. Would like to see your pictures to get an idea of what you did and see if it's something I could do. Can you repost the pictures or email me a link to where I can view the pictures. Thanks in advance. (firstname.lastname@example.org).
are not showing up? You can find them here, starting on page 2:
Ok, thanks anyway.
I will use your guide and try to build it by myself then.
However, i could not find the hardware from Johnson Hardware in Europe but i could find something similar.
do you think i could do the job with something like these ? for the track and wheels.
And something else. You said that you use the Sanus mount because the tv is vertical below the hanger ( due to the bent ) . Do you still think that if the pole was straight, it would cause problems to the balance of the tv ?
The straight pole should work, I was just a little paranoid again about the sheering force applied to the rails, through the wheels, of the mount trying to angle some due to the center of gravity not being centered. If you make sure the rails can each hold 50 kg, and use two of them, you will be more than adequately covered for such a thing.
I just needed your thoughts on whether that type of wheels will do the job or whether there would be some other problem which I cannot see.
I will try it with those and let you know of the results
You have to turn it sideways so that it holds itself up when it moves. If you hold it one way it droops, but turn it 90 degrees and it will hold itself up, yet be able to move back and forth. If you look at these pictures, you will see the cable comes in on the top in the first one and on the right side (center of the room) in the second one. It heads left, does a 180 at the end and returns to the right in the second picture. The TV, when against the wall, has the cable straight (first picture0. When the TV is in the middle of the room, the cable is bent in half (second picture0.
TV in the Middle of the Room:
TV against the Wall:
Use the track lighting for orientation.
Last edited by htpcforever; 10-02-2014 at 09:03 AM. Reason: clarity
I have an identical problem and am pursuing same solution.
Thanks for the posts! I really like your design and I think I'll mirror it. I'll be hanging a 60' panel, weighs about 60 pounds.
Do you have any follow up advice or thoughts on the subject?