Let's get the terminology down first:
Keystone Wall Plate
Used to house the keystone Jacks in various port densities as your needs will determine.
At the "head end" of your installation where all of your various Ethernet runs converge to be connected to your switch, you'll want to punch those down to a patch panel:
Between the keystone wallplate (and its Jacks) and the Patch Panel you'll want to use solid CAT6 UTP. Punch down on both ends with a punchdown tool which will almost certainly use a 110 blade.
Cross connect between the Patch Panel and your Switch by using short (1'-2') premade stranded patch cables from Monoprice or some other vendor. Bought from Monoprice they are very inexpensive and reliable. You will also use longer patch cables 3' - 12'+ to go between the keystone wallplate jacks and attached equipment. Again, these patch cables will be stranded.
- the wiring that is in the walls should be solid.
- the wiring that is outside the walls and used to connect between equipment and potentially moved is stranded.
- stranded wire is more flexible and tolerant of bends without breaking the wire over time
- solid wire is easier to manufacture and has slightly better conductive properties
Besides the time usage issue in creating your own patch cables, maintaining the twist ratios when creating a DIY patch cable is difficult to do and still end up with a cable that will test out to CAT6 tolerances.
My 2 minute graphic below illustrates the following connectivity chain:
CABLE MODEM <> patch cable > ROUTER <> patch cable <> SWITCH <> patch cable <> PATCH PANEL <> CAT6 UTP wire (in-wall) <> keystone jack <> patch panel <> networked device (like a Blu-ray player)