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post #1 of 31 Old 04-09-2012, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Just got my basement wired up. The guy supplied all the parts and labor.

He came highly recommended from our plumber (Family Friend)

For a ~500 square foot basement, with all parts and labor it was $3100 CAD. We did have him put in 8 pot lights. He put in about 20 receptacles (2 GFCIs)

This will include his cost for coming back in after we drywall and putting on all the wall plates etc.

What was your electricians cost? Just trying to see if we got majorly ripped off, a fair price, or what?

Thanks.
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post #2 of 31 Old 04-09-2012, 05:24 PM
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How many days did he put in on the job?
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post #3 of 31 Old 04-09-2012, 06:29 PM
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Sounds a little high to me for 500sqft but really depends on how much the lighting cost to really say.

I paid around $5500 for a whole lot more than that but lighting wasnt included. An entire 200 amp panel full of circuits, 2 grafik eyes, 1 220v sub panel with 3 outlets, 1 220v garage outlet, homeruns for both GEs, 5 dedicated circuits to closet, installing all old work lights into new work construction, and outlets above all doors along with multiple outlets for a bar. 2300 sqft but about twice as much work as standard residential house.

Mine also had a panel with external surge protector and the panel costs was included as well.
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post #4 of 31 Old 04-09-2012, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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He put in about 1 and a half days.
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post #5 of 31 Old 04-09-2012, 07:01 PM
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I paid around $10,000 to have my entire 1800 sq-ft basement done, including a new 13seer heat pump, full kitchen wiring, bedroom, exercise room, home theater, family room, bathroom etc. I can't imagine spending more than $1000 to have a single room done, unless they had to install a new sub-panel or do some major, difficult runs to get back to your main panel.
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post #6 of 31 Old 04-09-2012, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loading View Post

He put in about 1 and a half days.

Did he itemize how much the supplies cost?
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post #7 of 31 Old 04-09-2012, 10:17 PM
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My scope of work was much simpler than yours, but I paid just over $300 to have two circuits run from the panel to the theater, each terminated at a receptacle. With your receptacle count and light count, your scope of work was probably 10 times mine, so my $300 jives with your $3000. However, economy of scale should be considered so you probably should have been able to get yours done for less than 10 times my cost.

I know the cost of builder options are severely inflated, but I thought I'd throw these out there. In 2006, our builder was charging $105 for each extra duplex outlet & $140 for each extra can light. So my builder would have charged you $3,220 bucks. Consider yourself $120 ahead of the game and enjoy your basement.
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post #8 of 31 Old 04-09-2012, 10:38 PM
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My electrician charges $7500 for my basement (not including the grafic eye/ radio Ra lighting control which was an extra $4500). This was 2009 and I think copper has got even more expensive since then.

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post #9 of 31 Old 04-10-2012, 05:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Did he itemize how much the supplies cost?

He did not. And that's what I'm a little worried about. We asked him for an invoice, and he gave us this paper with what he put in, but no breakdown in cost. It was all just one 'lump sum' sheet. His labor cost was 'time and labor to install all the above'

His labor was not broken down at say 20 hrs @ $100 an hour or anything.

If everything was broken down and I got to the $3100 amount I'd be fine but I'm just thinking with the lump sum everything seems a little high.
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post #10 of 31 Old 04-10-2012, 05:13 AM
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With subs and contractors everything is negotiable. Get the pricing up front and learn how to haggle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I know the cost of builder options are severely inflated, but I thought I'd throw these out there. In 2006, our builder was charging $105 for each extra duplex outlet & $140 for each extra can light. So my builder would have charged you $3,220 bucks. Consider yourself $120 ahead of the game and enjoy your basement.


Yes builders upgrades are often a rip-off profit booster. In my case I was tipped off to the fact that my builder simply doubled the cost from the sub for any extras. I went without a two story stone fireplace and granite counter tops as shown in the model home and had them added latter at SUBSTANTIAL SAVINGS.

$3100 for a single room was a blatant ripoff and you need to advise your family friend of that fact before he alienates any more friends. I have to assume that you didn't get competitive bids.
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post #11 of 31 Old 04-10-2012, 05:18 AM
 
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This is something that is discussed regularly on diychatroom.com. There is no way to compare costs of other people across a land mass, due to material costs may be different, and labor is the big cost, which comes down to if the walls & ceiling are open or not, do they have to remove old wiring, pull permits, make multiple runs to the shop or "warehouse" (ie Home Depot, Lowe's).

There really is no way to average what may cost less for one person, may cost more for the other.
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post #12 of 31 Old 04-10-2012, 05:35 AM
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Competitive bids or at least asking up front what it is going to cost would have solved this problem. If you don't ask up front what it is going to cost, the electrician will assume that price is no object.
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post #13 of 31 Old 04-10-2012, 06:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Competitive bids or at least asking up front what it is going to cost would have solved this problem. If you don't ask up front what it is going to cost, the electrician will assume that price is no object.

I learned that with my plumber. Competitive bids on drywall saved me 60% and even calling around for 1 roll of Linacoustic saved me over $700 (yes, my first quote was almost $900 for a single roll, from a local supplier).
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post #14 of 31 Old 04-10-2012, 07:00 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

My scope of work was much simpler than yours, but I paid just over $300 to have two circuits run from the panel to the theater, each terminated at a receptacle. With your receptacle count and light count, your scope of work was probably 10 times mine, so my $300 jives with your $3000. However, economy of scale should be considered so you probably should have been able to get yours done for less than 10 times my cost.

I know the cost of builder options are severely inflated, but I thought I'd throw these out there. In 2006, our builder was charging $105 for each extra duplex outlet & $140 for each extra can light. So my builder would have charged you $3,220 bucks. Consider yourself $120 ahead of the game and enjoy your basement.

Don't forget to add the Canadian taxes into the mix. It was 15% last time I looked (8% provincial, 7% federal).

That said, I wired everything myself - but I was an electrician in the Navy.
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post #15 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

That said, I wired everything myself - but I was an electrician in the Navy.

I had a copy of Basic Home Wiring from Black and Decker and a copy of the county code on basement finishing. Did everything myself as well. Anything you don't know how to do there is a Youtube video on it as well.
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post #16 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 10:46 AM
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I'm 18 and I wired everything myself.

If I can do it anyone can.

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post #17 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 11:59 AM
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I got GREAT advice on the doityourself.com forum.

Framing, plumbing. HVAC and electrical. ALL of the help I got was really good. ESPECIALLY when I tried to rewire the 3-way light in the stairway. And adding a second doorbell. Which tends to be far more complicated than you would think.

Looking at what guys are being charged/quoted, I'm REALLY glad I did it myself, too.

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post #18 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 12:01 PM
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Electrical work is said to be the most expensive trade to a homeowner.

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post #19 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glimmie View Post

Electrical work is said to be the most expensive trade to a homeowner.

I would have to say plumbing or HVAC. There are many electricians to choose from and plumbers around here but HVAC seems like they charge whatever they want. I'm speaking on a rather large region of my state not just my city.

I paid less for electric in terms of labor than plumbing or HVAC. Most of the costs with electric are materials. Although my "friend" quoted me a lot more for the job than an electrician I dont really know too well. So, he surely makes a ton off other people.

I had a bid for $4000 more for the HVAC work than my second bid which is where I stopped getting bids. But I still paid right at $2000 in labor for the HVAC and right at 2500-3000 for plumbing in labor. Had another bid on the plumbing that was $3000 more than the bid I took. Plumber broke it down to cost per hole which was $450/hole. That included septic and tieing into water line for new source, each considered a standard hole.
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post #20 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 01:06 PM
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My electrician (at least the last one I used) charges $100 for every single gang box he touches. Two-gang = $200.

I'm learning how to do it.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #21 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 03:18 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I had a copy of Basic Home Wiring from Black and Decker and a copy of the county code on basement finishing. Did everything myself as well. Anything you don't know how to do there is a Youtube video on it as well.

VERY good book!

The only part I had to look up was how to wire the outlets in parallel*...I never wired outlets in the Navy. After a bunch of videos, I determined pigtails were the best way to go. Far from the easiest, but definately the best. I can completely remove an outlet from the line and all the rest still work.

*edited, had previously typed series in error when I meant parallel.
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post #22 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 03:22 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

And adding a second doorbell. Which tends to be far more complicated than you would think.

I used this for a second doorbell, an extend-a-chime:



The radio transmitter gets wired into your existing doorbell chime. The new chime gets plugged into a standard outlet. When the doorbell button is pressed, the voltage used to activate the existing chime is also used to power the transmitter, which sends a quick "sound chime" signal to the new chime. Since the new chime is plugged into an outlet, it can be VERY loud of you want. It is also only $30 or so.

I use it in my theater room. Due to soundproofing, I cannot hear the doorbell without it!
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post #23 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

The only part I had to look up was how to wire the outlets in series...I never wired outlets in the Navy.

Outlets are never wired in series, all residential lighting and outlets are parallel wired. Maybe you are thinking daisy chained but not in series.
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post #24 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

My electrician (at least the last one I used) charges $100 for every single gang box he touches. Two-gang = $200.

I'm learning how to do it.

That might be a good way for him to do it. I know he is making a good profit more times than not by doing it this way. A lot charge by the hour plus material, other charge by the job, its just a personal preference. He is making the profit of one run on a double gang in the same amount of time as a single minus the material which isnt going to be that much even though copper keeps going up for the trade but not on the board just yet. Soon copper will be way too expensive to use over aluminum in most cases once China really starts to hit its peak in building.
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post #25 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

I used this for a second doorbell, an extend-a-chime:



The radio transmitter gets wired into your existing doorbell chime. The new chime gets plugged into a standard outlet. When the doorbell button is pressed, the voltage used to activate the existing chime is also used to power the transmitter, which sends a quick "sound chime" signal to the new chime. Since the new chime is plugged into an outlet, it can be VERY loud of you want. It is also only $30 or so.

I use it in my theater room. Due to soundproofing, I cannot hear the doorbell without it!

Great product. Mother in law needed a louder doorbell and this was the answer, just placed it closer to where she was when couldnt hear the bell.
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post #26 of 31 Old 04-11-2012, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Outlets are never wired in series, all residential lighting and outlets are parallel wired. Maybe you are thinking daisy chained but not in series.

One question BIG, I'm about to build risers with my framer this weekend. We have 2 runs of romex for the step lights and riser outlets already ran down through a column and long enough to reach the first of both places. Do I just need to buy enough romex to cut and run to each different location? Like you mentioned daisy chaining. Just one run jumped from each to the other and that is it? Just like I were to run for single voice coil speakers right?

OK now back to them mean robbing electricians. Dont worry OP even my good friend got me good on a meter base swap. Charged me for one and a half bases because the electric company screwed up and approved the first one but later refused to hook up the new main line to it so had to buy another one from their local shop they send everyone to. Sad sad government workers giving me and the electrician a hard time. They even threatened to cut my service off if he didnt change it to the one they wanted even after approving it right in front of both of us. Bad part is the first one was way better in my opinion. Had more surface area to run the 400 amp service.
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post #27 of 31 Old 04-12-2012, 05:18 AM
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step light diagram, yes, just add wire between the lights assuming the first is powered.

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post #28 of 31 Old 04-12-2012, 05:29 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

I got GREAT advice on the doityourself.com forum.

Framing, plumbing. HVAC and electrical. ALL of the help I got was really good. ESPECIALLY when I tried to rewire the 3-way light in the stairway. And adding a second doorbell. Which tends to be far more complicated than you would think.

Looking at what guys are being charged/quoted, I'm REALLY glad I did it myself, too.

3-Way circuits are not that hard, neither is a doorbell, which is a Low-Voltage system. They are probably the two most easiest things to work on.
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post #29 of 31 Old 04-12-2012, 05:34 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Outlets are never wired in series, all residential lighting and outlets are parallel wired. Maybe you are thinking daisy chained but not in series.

Meant to type parallel...and instead typed series. I will edit my other post.
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post #30 of 31 Old 04-12-2012, 05:54 AM
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3-Way circuits are not that hard, neither is a doorbell, which is a Low-Voltage system.

Not when the original painter painted the wires and power was to the ceiling box, so there were LOT of wires to sort out. The one I THOUGHT was the traveler was not. I only fried one switch. The real help was helping me test which was which. When I ran a new 3-way in the bar area, I had no problem. Power to the first switch, then 3/1 to the other switch. It was easy when I could see what color all the wires were.

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