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post #631 of 780 Old 09-20-2013, 05:57 PM
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How thick is the corner bead, the top flat of the base and bottom flat of the crown?

I'm thinking about putting a small router detail on the top and bottom of the corner, like a horizontal bead, which would make the bottom look like a round pedestal base and a cove at the top (or bead).

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post #632 of 780 Old 09-20-2013, 06:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Jim, I totally follow what you are saying. I just never knew they were called plinth blocks. That is exactly what I am doing on the base of the door casing as well as the corners of the columns. In fact, they’ve already been mounted. I cannot take credit for just dreaming that up.... that came as a suggestion from my dad who has yet to complain about my constant calls asking him about woodworking issues. That being said, my question pertains to the other side of the column (the top); look at post #620 above. See the edges of the column and how they will meet the crown molding? I want to blend that right into the crown molding. Is that the portion you were talking about the chisel? Yikes! I must admit..... most of the times I've used my chisels have not turned out pretty wink.gif Is there a technique or topic that would discuss how this is done? Youtube seems to have a lot and hopefully it has a video showing the process. Take care. Thanks.
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post #633 of 780 Old 09-20-2013, 07:08 PM
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#580 shows moulding for column edges. Are two of these getting edge mitered to make a corner? Give me some dimensions and maybe a sketch of the corner.

Basically if you can't get it to butt into the bottom edge of the crown, you have to make a negative of the crown. It only has to be pretty on the surface of the corner and can be hollowed out "roughly" inside. Trace the profile of the crown on both edges of the corner and cut with a coping saw. The cut won't be perpendicular to the face without damaging the other edge. Leave about an 1/8" on both edges and hollow out the middle more than needed - it won't be seen. File the profile to perpendicular and to fit the crown. The top edge should be angled to fit "that" part of the crown. Try this on a scrap piece to get the hang of it.

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post #634 of 780 Old 09-20-2013, 07:13 PM
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Oh yes. Make sure your chisel(s) is sharp and have a selection of small files...flat, half round and a rat tail, size-appropriate for the size of the curves and not too fine, you're cutting wood not metal.

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post #635 of 780 Old 09-21-2013, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is the left rack. The opening at the top is where the Control4 will go while the Torus power management will go in at the bottom. Then I'll put all the trim on it to make it look pretty.

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post #636 of 780 Old 09-21-2013, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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As with most things in this build, the blending of the molding wasn't quite as difficult as I thought it would be. At least I started with scrap wood this time. wink.gif Here is a pic of the molding going up on the columns. Still more to do at the base of all the columns...

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post #637 of 780 Old 09-22-2013, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychdoc View Post

As with most things in this build, the blending of the molding wasn't quite as difficult as I thought it would be. At least I started with scrap wood this time. wink.gif Here is a pic of the molding going up on the columns. Still more to do at the base of all the columns...


You're doing a great job with the trim! With the right tools, the jobs is much easier! Now if only I could get a close up of your miter cuts! wink.gif

Hurry up with your build.............I need your feedback on how you like Control4!!! I had Creston in my last home and my "Boss" hated it!!! biggrin.gif
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post #638 of 780 Old 09-23-2013, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Hurry up with your build.............I need your feedback on how you like Control4!!! I had Creston in my last home and my "Boss" hated it!!! biggrin.gif
For what it's worth, I have Control4 at home, and have for years. If you can say what your "boss" hated about the Crestron, perhaps I or another Control4 user can chime in as to whether it's better/worse/same in that regard.

Feel free to PM me if you prefer that route!

The trim is looking great, doc! smile.gif

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post #639 of 780 Old 09-23-2013, 01:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! Also, thanks TMcG and aecad for the "thumbs up".

Double... I think I'll need to institute a 3 ft rule if you or anyone like you comes over to visit.... no one can get closer to my miter cuts than three feet if they want to comment on my room wink.gif I'll let you know my thoughts regarding Control4. For me, it came down to Savant and Control4. Savant seemed to have a couple extra bells and whistles but charged too many bucks for their bang. I'm getting close to getting my guy in to do his magic. We'll see if it all works out.

Here is one example of my coping saw at work:



and here is a pic of my columns taking the next step (the baseboard molding just needs a strip of half round or something like that around the room and it will be done):

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post #640 of 780 Old 09-27-2013, 03:01 PM
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Enter and exit the cut perpendicular to the wood with the back-cut as you have done in the middle. smile.gif

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post #641 of 780 Old 09-29-2013, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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My Kaleidescape system is finally up and running. It's still chewing on 130 more blurays for importing so it will be a while until my collection is fully set. It is a lot of fun to play with, I must admit. biggrin.gif

Jim, I'll need to practice a lot more I think. Thanks for the tip.

Here is a screen shot of my K-system with the uploaded movies so far.

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post #642 of 780 Old 09-29-2013, 02:36 PM
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I love that interface but damn is that a pricey system (and worth every penny!). I'm going to go with the "poor man's Kaleidescape", also known as XBMC.

So tell me . . . have you been getting a lot of use out of the room lately? How do the wife and kids like it?
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post #643 of 780 Old 09-29-2013, 11:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I agree TMcG, the interface is pretty darn nice.smile.gif The kids like it but they are still so young that they're just happy when we allow them to watch Power Rangers and Sophia the First, wherever that might be. The wife has declared that every Friday night is family movie night in the theater which has been AWESOME!!! biggrin.gif That sort of thing is exactly what I was hoping for. The wife is also planning a Disney Sophia birthday party with a big screen Sophia movie for my little girl which is also pretty cool. It makes all the hard work and money spent worth it. Still, I like it more than anyone else by a wide margin (which makes a lot of sense).
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post #644 of 780 Old 09-30-2013, 12:53 AM
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Have you got the Child Remote for the Kaleidescape, or are your kids too old for that?

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post #645 of 780 Old 09-30-2013, 11:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey Mike. No child K system remote yet. It is only set up for the home theater so far so I don't let them have access to any control in there. I'll likely scale it out in the future for the other rooms so they can have a kiddie TV with movie access with a K system child remote. My little girl is still too young to play with remotes but my little boy, who is 4, has already figured out on his own how to use several remote controls, which can be frustrating at times. rolleyes.gif
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post #646 of 780 Old 10-05-2013, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Edge trim starting to go up (finally). Touch ups still need to occur. I'll start working on cineslide and ISCO III lens stuff next....

Here is a pic of the soffit with no edge trim:



Here a couple of pics of the trim starting to go up. The strip LED lights are much more controlled now...



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post #647 of 780 Old 10-06-2013, 08:17 AM
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Isn't it convenient to have those boxes scattered about to pile stuff on while you are doing the trim work! And if you put them on their side, I bet they'd be just the right height to stand on to reach the soffit trim. Great planning always makes the job run smoothly! biggrin.gif

Almost there!

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post #648 of 780 Old 10-06-2013, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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smile.gif You joke but there has been a couple times I had to reach really far for something and stood on my sub with one foot for balance (never with a shoe, shoes are not allowed in the house). Really bad form, I know, but I got the job done. Aerial's are well known for being built like tanks....... No harm, no foul.
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post #649 of 780 Old 10-06-2013, 03:30 PM
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I would NEVER do that often!
rolleyes.gif

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post #650 of 780 Old 10-06-2013, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't, trust me. The couple of times I've put my foot on it with a sock on I still looked at it afterwards for 5 minutes or so to make sure not even a small scratch got on my sub.
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post #651 of 780 Old 10-06-2013, 11:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Lots of work done this weekend. I got my ISCO III lens up and running. Had to play with it a while to figure it out how it goes together. Here it is being pieced together....



And here it is being attached to the ceiling. Some fine tuning to do but the 2.37 Stewart screen is getting filled in all its glory as I type...... it is a beautiful thing!!!!!! smile.gif



As always, more to follow....
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post #652 of 780 Old 10-07-2013, 04:23 AM
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Come on Doc, you can't tease us with something like that and not have a couple screen shots. Such a tease. tongue.gif

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #653 of 780 Old 10-07-2013, 02:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi there BllDo. I was thinking of doing that but for some reason my camera does a terrible job of taking screen shots. The colors look terrible in pictures and everything is usually a bit blurry. I'm not a camera buff so I'm not too sure what setting works best.

I watched Prometheus last night with my ISCO lens and it was SPECTACULAR!!!! The detail was amazing and the full, bright, picture without bars was AMAZING! It was everything I hoped it would be. It was a heck of a lot better then the version I saw in a "real" theater. This hobby is a lot of fun (but takes a lot of time and money). I'll see what I can do for pics... biggrin.gif
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post #654 of 780 Old 10-07-2013, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychdoc View Post

This hobby is a lot of fun (but takes a lot of time and money). I'll see what I can do for pics... biggrin.gif

Some guys buy a 4-wheeled "toy" . . . we build theaters!

By the way, this is an excellent "how to" book with lots of plain-English explanations: http://www.amazon.com/Digital-SLR-Cameras-Photography-Dummies/dp/1118144899

For getting the best screen shots you'll definitely need a tripod so the camera remains perfectly stable during the longer exposures. And to get a screen shot in your well-lit theater you'll actually have to take a picture of the screen (sitting on a tripod in a fixed position, of course) with the room 100% dark and then kill the projector and take another pic of the room when fully lit. Then it's just a matter of stitching the two images together in Photoshop. It's actually very easy to do.
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post #655 of 780 Old 10-07-2013, 02:30 PM - Thread Starter
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TMcG..... ahhhhhhh so that's how people are doing it. I was always shocked to see some theaters with perfect screen shots with the lights on. Thanks for the link. I'll definitely need to read up a bit on the subject smile.gif
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post #656 of 780 Old 10-07-2013, 02:48 PM
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Looking good! FYI, I bought a nice little right angle adapter for the HDMI cable on my Sony 1000. It really helps with those annoying side-mounted connections on the projector. I posted a snapshot over on my build thread: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1351987/theater-build-mikes-money-pit/210#post_23759800

Edit: The one I used was something like this. I'm not sure if this is the exact one or not. Be sure to check the orientation of the connections so that you end up with the cable going towards the back! :-) http://www.computercableinc.com/ccinc/images/ADAPTER-HDMI-Right-Angle-Vertical-Flat-Left-Adapter-PCHCables.jpg

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post #657 of 780 Old 10-08-2013, 11:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Question for anyone out there that has knowledge or experience working with an ISCO III anamoprhic lens: how do you reduce the pincushioning effect. I was setting up my lens last night and fine tuning the horizontal resolution, getting the beam in the center of the lens, etc, and there is some pincushioning effect I can't get rid of. It is equal on the top and bottom of the image and likely not obvious to anyone except those looking for defects or variations (like owners, hobbyists, or those with a critical eye, which describes us all wink.gif ). Any ideas?

The only thing I could play with some more is to move the lens back near the Sony 1000 by 1/4". Any ideas? Thanks!
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post #658 of 780 Old 10-08-2013, 12:04 PM
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What is your throw ratio? Plus, did you experiment with the tilt you have introduced to the lens?
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post #659 of 780 Old 10-08-2013, 12:10 PM
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There are two solutions to pincushioning - a longer throw, and a curved screen.

Don't worry about it. wink.gif
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post #660 of 780 Old 10-08-2013, 05:35 PM
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Haven't set one up... but I was looking at the angle of the Anamorphic lens when you posted it and was wondering if the projector lens is actually at that angle or if you have the A. lens on an angle off axis. Wide angle lenses do funky thing when tilted off axis!

As an example, the Hasselblad SW with a super wide 38 mm lens yields an image without "any" distortion when perpendicular to a plane (camera pointing straight at a building facade) but tip the camera up (off axis) and all H breaks loose with distortion.

I would look at alignment of lens axes. Unless I'm wrong. wink.gif

edit: I'm assuming that key stoning is taken care of in the software. Ideally the projector and A. lens would need to be moved "together" (keeping axis alignment) to position the image on the desired screen position.

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