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post #271 of 601 Old 01-22-2013, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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was off yesterday but didn't get much done ... did get all the covers for the lights painted thou

photo1-1_zpsb76f0ba1.jpg


my wife works for trim company and is ordering the rest of the trim from the basement
HUGE HUGE savings ... defiantly made my day ... primed base trim .40 a foot and crown .35
she will also order the three doors that i need two 30" doors for 53$ and a french for going from the bar area to the game room for 250$

so will be very busy the next couple weeks outside the theater area


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post #272 of 601 Old 01-22-2013, 09:16 AM
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**painting tip ...the guy at Benjamin Moore gave a good tip for filling small nail wholes ... crest toothpaste ... i tested it and it worked was surprised... no sanding and no shrinking

I had to laugh at this . . . I remember everyone doing this at the end-of-year moving out day at college where all the nail holes in your dorm walls that shouldn't have been made in the first place needed to be filled or face a fine for professional repairs. I never had one fine, so it definitely fooled the college inspection folks.

Your theater is coming along great. Now that you are at the painting stage, do you think you will use your sprayer? If not there is a product called Flotrol which gives you a bit more open time when mixed with your paint, preserves the wet edge for longer and basically gives as close to a spray job as you can get with a brush. Fair warning - a little goes a long way. You have enough edges that you can easily get to different breaking points, but I thought I would throw that painting tip out to you FWIW.

Keep up the great work.
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post #273 of 601 Old 01-22-2013, 09:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I had to laugh at this . . . I remember everyone doing this at the end-of-year moving out day at college where all the nail holes in your dorm walls that shouldn't have been made in the first place needed to be filled or face a fine for professional repairs. I never had one fine, so it definitely fooled the college inspection folks.

Your theater is coming along great. Now that you are at the painting stage, do you think you will use your sprayer? If not there is a product called Flotrol which gives you a bit more open time when mixed with your paint, preserves the wet edge for longer and basically gives as close to a spray job as you can get with a brush. Fair warning - a little goes a long way. You have enough edges that you can easily get to different breaking points, but I thought I would throw that painting tip out to you FWIW.

Keep up the great work.

LOL!! i thought that might get a laugh or two ...

yes no more sprayer for me ..... me and that thing just did not seem to get along ... i am sure with practice i could be pretty good with it but that is skill my heart will not break for not having .... thanks for the tip on Flotrol i read about that and planned on it giving it try....


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post #274 of 601 Old 01-22-2013, 09:41 AM
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I like the 3rd carpet sample. It's nice & dark and the thin gray lines pull in the trim color. Your room is really coming together. Great job!

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post #275 of 601 Old 01-22-2013, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I like the 3rd carpet sample. It's nice & dark and the thin gray lines pull in the trim color. Your room is really coming together. Great job!

yep i agree it is a toss up between #1 and #3 will see when i get samples but #3 so far is growing on me


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post #276 of 601 Old 01-25-2013, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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got 99% of the theater area painted the color we choose was Benjamin Moore "sweatshirt grey"

here is the sample ....

ScreenShot2013-01-25at81455PM_zpsd9360d8c.png


took me a little over two days to do two coats .. second coat i added Flotrol that way it gave me more time to work with the paint and with that along with a nice fine brush the virtually no brush lines at all very happy with the end result .
i still need to paint the crown molding above the stage ....... note to self next time PAINT THE CROWN BEFORE NAILING IT UP........ live and learn frown.gif also need to paint the back of the riser .


IMG_5023_zpsa3a3acee.jpg


IMG_5024_zpsef1d6d7d.jpg


IMG_5025_zps1ae41808.jpg


IMG_5020_zpscbe00e04.jpg


IMG_5019_zpsf8a27f8d.jpg


IMG_5018_zps8771900b.jpg


once everything was dry my shipment of fabric came in so i was anxious to see how the well color matched so i started with the cabinets on the stage ..

IMG_5007_zps9f1b16b9.jpg

IMG_5008_zps5f060f58.jpg

IMG_5005_zps037a6c53.jpg


IMG_5009_zps90dd4c2c.jpg


and the finished product

IMG_5006_zps36fd2f3f.jpg


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post #277 of 601 Old 01-25-2013, 05:39 PM
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Looking good! The fabric panel with wood trim covering the edges looks pretty clean.


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post #278 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 05:25 AM
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The room looks fantastic.  I really like your color choices.



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post #279 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 06:03 AM
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Snickers,

How tall are your ceilings and looks like you have a ,Ian support and duct, how high is that section too?

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post #280 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Snickers,

How tall are your ceilings and looks like you have a ,Ian support and duct, how high is that section too?


the entire basement has 8" ceilings i think what your asking about is the support beam that runs across the theater room?

here is pic of it during framing ...... the other drop down you see in the front top of the pic is where the main hvac ducs run

the beam that drops down in the theater area is 9 inches.... i used mdf and boxed it in very tight to the beam

IMG_4439.jpg


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post #281 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 06:52 AM
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Thanks. Typing on iPhone not easy....how do you find the height under the support beam, comfortable?

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post #282 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. Typing on iPhone not easy....how do you find the height under the support beam, comfortable?

what do you mean ? it is little over 7ft from the floor to the bottom of the beam ... i guess if i was in the NBA i may have a prob smile.gif ..... i have had friends that are over 6ft and they never even noticed the beam
i have seen older homes with basements that the entire basement has only 7ft
i would have loved for my basement to have 9ft ceilings but it was not even an option when we built the house.


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post #283 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 07:37 AM
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Thanks. Room is looking great! When you going to finish off those nice looking speaker cabinets

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post #284 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. Room is looking great! When you going to finish off those nice looking speaker cabinets


good ? i was going to finish them up next week i have all the crossovers made and everything else for them to finish them off i just need to putty them sand them and paint and there done..
but the i have the rest of the trim and doors for the rest of basement coming in next week so i will probably not being working in the theater area for the next week .....
if all i had was the theater room to finish off i would say i see the light at the end of tunnel but no such luck i have so much to do mad.gif


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post #285 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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got the fabric panels in the lower part of the columns ... these where built just like i built the fabrick panels for the rest of the room just 1x2's put together with the kregg jig.

the the fabric color i choose for front cabinets and the columns is Bleu Papier i am so happy with how well it matches the sweatshirt grey BM paint and it really makes the baltic blue fabric panels pop
columns_zps885a76ed.jpg


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post #286 of 601 Old 01-26-2013, 06:26 PM
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Copied... I mean subscribed!! LOL, looking great, keep up the good work, I really like the fabric in the columns.


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post #287 of 601 Old 01-28-2013, 05:44 PM
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Did you add any clips and/or channel beyond the normal layout to help support your soffits and light trays?


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post #288 of 601 Old 01-28-2013, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Did you add any clips and/or channel beyond the normal layout to help support your soffits and light trays?

no clips or anything on the soffit ..the soffits where constructed by using 2x2's on the ceiling and the wall ... the deigned is borrowed from the "bacon Race" build and they did a much better job with documenting the build steps ...
that is the one thing i wish i did a little better was to have the camera by my side at all times and just take pics as i went along..... will try to better job from now on thou.


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post #289 of 601 Old 01-28-2013, 06:04 PM
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Wow! That is looking really good. thumbs up, way up


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post #290 of 601 Old 01-28-2013, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow! That is looking really good. thumbs up, way up

Thank you .... i need to get them speaker finished soon i don't want to see unfinished MDF for a very very long time after this project lol.....

we ordered the doors and the rest of the trim for the rest of basement today that will be delivered Thursday.... i am forcing my self to finish the whole basement before i start filling the theater with equipment because i know me i would get caught up into enjoying the big screen and everything else would to a standstill.... cool.gif


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post #291 of 601 Old 01-28-2013, 06:18 PM
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no clips or anything on the soffit ..the soffits where constructed by using 2x2's on the ceiling and the wall ... the deigned is borrowed from the "bacon Race" build and they did a much better job with documenting the build steps ...
that is the one thing i wish i did a little better was to have the camera by my side at all times and just take pics as i went along..... will try to better job from now on thou.

Sorry, what I meant was- were the ceiling 2x2s just fastened to whatever channel they may pass over in the ceiling above? Or did you preplan to have additional clips/channel in the ceiling above where the soffit 2x2s were going to be?


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post #292 of 601 Old 01-28-2013, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry, what I meant was- were the ceiling 2x2s just fastened to whatever channel they may pass over in the ceiling above? Or did you preplan to have additional clips/channel in the ceiling above where the soffit 2x2s were going to be?

oh gotcha i was told that just screwing the 2x2's to the two layers of drywall would be strong enough but i was still worried the all the weight of that mdf i am sure it would have been fine but i guess i just worried to much so since the 2x2's would only be attached to the drywall i ended up pre-drilling a very small hole through the 2x2 into the drywall and then installed a heavy duty drywall anchors into the two layers of drywall then screwed the 2x2's into place..... hope that helps ... there was no of pre planing exactly where the soffits would end up without doing some complicated math lol

here is couple shots of it being built towards bottom of page http://www.avsforum.com/t/1406917/the-merrimont-trace-theater-has-begun/90


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post #293 of 601 Old 01-28-2013, 07:04 PM
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Good to know. Thanks.


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post #294 of 601 Old 02-05-2013, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
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started on the fabric speaker panels in the columns

i ordered 6 replacement kits from parts express

these are friction fit and i also used small magnets in all four corners

DSC_0485_zpsb6e43614.jpg


then i used hot glue to attach the fabric to the panel and test fitted

DSC_0514_zpsdcabb6e2.jpg

DSC_0515_zpsbd851e87.jpg



my wife threw me and my sister a birthday party so i was forced to do some cleaning in prep for the basement tours!!

DSC_0489_zps0b341daa.jpg

DSC_0488_zpsc4548ece.jpg


also have been working on trim for the rest of the basement

DSC_0494_zps01dadd73.jpg

DSC_0492_zps66cc4022.jpg

oh yeah got some work done in the bathroom also
i was going to user the kerdi shower pan kit but ended not fitting correctly it would have ended up being way to close to the toilet
so returned it and bought a tub instead and now the toilet is the correct distance from the tub
will be removing the drywall around the tub and replacing with concrete backer board

DSC_0491_zps7ce0d457.jpg

Carpet guy will be out Saturday to measure and give estimate so i feel like things are moving along but still a long way to go but that is ok its marathon not a sprint......


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post #295 of 601 Old 02-05-2013, 04:10 PM
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Looks great snickers! Keep up to good work!

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post #296 of 601 Old 02-05-2013, 04:32 PM
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I'd keep the drywall and use kerdi over it. I used it in all of my bathrooms, the stuff is fantastic. I used concrete board only on the wall where the shower body was.. in case the plumbing sprang a leak.

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post #297 of 601 Old 02-05-2013, 04:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I'd keep the drywall and use kerdi over it. I used it in all of my bathrooms, the stuff is fantastic. I used concrete board only on the wall where the shower body was.. in case the plumbing sprang a leak.

Tim

good point..... thank you


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post #298 of 601 Old 02-05-2013, 05:56 PM
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will be removing the drywall around the tub and replacing with concrete backer board

FIrst of all . . . happy birthday! Second - I bet your guests have never seen a properly built home theater before. I would imagine they were all very impressed. And last I would not mess around with this at all...put in the concrete board and rest easy that you don't have a mold buffet behind a polyethylene barrier. The reason I say this is that you have pipe / faucet penetrations through the membrane and there is risk of exposure through failed caulking at the juncture of the tub and wall. The wall board comes down over the lip of the tub, but there is not Kerdi that covers the exposed thickness of drywall. Considering the recommended gap between the bottom of the wall board and the top surface of the tub is about 1/8", one failure in the caulking which you might not even see and suddenly you are collecting water in the exact place you don't want water. AIN'T NOBODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!!!

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post #299 of 601 Old 02-05-2013, 06:38 PM - Thread Starter
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FIrst of all . . . happy birthday! Second - I bet your guests have never seen a properly built home theater before. I would imagine they were all very impressed. And last I would not mess around with this at all...put in the concrete board and rest easy that you don't have a mold buffet behind a polyethylene barrier. The reason I say this is that you have pipe / faucet penetrations through the membrane and there is risk of exposure through failed caulking at the juncture of the tub and wall. The wall board comes down over the lip of the tub, but there is not Kerdi that covers the exposed thickness of drywall. Considering the recommended gap between the bottom of the wall board and the top surface of the tub is about 1/8", one failure in the caulking which you might not even see and suddenly you are collecting water in the exact place you don't want water. AIN'T NOBODY GOT TIME FOR THAT!!!


it was nice to hear what people where saying but they really had no idea what they where looking at they just thought wow..
and if you dry to go into detail you see there eyes gloss over LOL!!!

thanks for the tip on what to do in the bathroom


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post #300 of 601 Old 02-06-2013, 04:27 AM
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While I agree Kerdi over cbb is the best solution, kerdi over drywall is a proven method. I have seen many installs, done the research and made my own decision. As stated prior, the cbb on the plumbing wall is a good safety factor.

Beyond that, follow the instructions. 1/4" gap, completely filled with silicon prior to tile install. Install your tile and maintain them just like anything else in the home. If installed right the caulk between the tile and tub will last a decade or more.

Keep in mind cbb is porous, as is tile grout and it will transmit moisture into the wall. That's why when you remove it you can see the rust stains around the screws. You still have wood studs and the drywall on the other side as a breeding ground for mold.

Have I ever seen a serious mold problem (ie other than some black spotting on studs behind cbb.. no different than you might find in a garage or other damp location) with any system installed properly.. nope.

cbb.. drywall.. whichever.. kerdi is a waterproof solution over either substrate. cbb is not waterproof.

Tim

ICC Certified.


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