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post #541 of 601 Old 04-27-2014, 05:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WIKED View Post

I love your work.

Very well done Snickers. You must be so happy with your achievement.

Thanks!! It has been a fun project and still have small list of odds and ends to finish one of which is finish the bathroom across from the bar.
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post #542 of 601 Old 04-27-2014, 05:17 AM - Thread Starter
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What kind of flooring is that? It looks very similar to what we installed in the upstairs in our house, which is a hand-scraped, engineered product made from maple with a relatively dark stain.

Yes that is the same stuff i got mine from lumber liquidators http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/c/Summer-Retreat-Teak-Handscraped-Laminate-Dream-Home-Kensington-Manor-12SR-Z/10029600
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post #543 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 07:58 AM
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It looks like your riser for the second row is up, but the walkway past the second row is flat and also the bar behind the second row is ground level. Do you like that design? I'm considering that versus a step up and then a step down into the bar (or the entire bar on a riser)

Your design seems most practical. I think I just liked the look of stairs for whatever reason.

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post #544 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

It looks like your riser for the second row is up, but the walkway past the second row is flat and also the bar behind the second row is ground level. Do you like that design? I'm considering that versus a step up and then a step down into the bar (or the entire bar on a riser)

Your design seems most practical. I think I just liked the look of stairs for whatever reason.

It makes tons of sense with an open backed theater like his. I'd prefer it that way too if I had a similar space.
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post #545 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

It looks like your riser for the second row is up, but the walkway past the second row is flat and also the bar behind the second row is ground level. Do you like that design? I'm considering that versus a step up and then a step down into the bar (or the entire bar on a riser)

Your design seems most practical. I think I just liked the look of stairs for whatever reason.

My thinking is since it is a open concept Theater that if i where to have made it so you had to step up coming from behind the theater area and then step down again entering where the front row ends then i would be a huge tripping hazard. also looking from the bar area to the theater i think it would just like funny.
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post #546 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 09:48 AM
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I think I agree with both of you.

The look funny thing is what makes me not want to try to do a step up and then back down.

That leaves me the option to put the bar on a riser as well, or do like Rich did in his and only put the chairs on the riser and walk past the second row on ground level. Obviously a larger riser would be cost ineffective and extra work too, I'll have to figure that one out.

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post #547 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

I think I agree with both of you.

The look funny thing is what makes me not want to try to do a step up and then back down.

That leaves me the option to put the bar on a riser as well, or do like Rich did in his and only put the chairs on the riser and walk past the second row on ground level. Obviously a larger riser would be cost ineffective and extra work too, I'll have to figure that one out.

Depends on your bar. So keep in mind when people do a "Bar" in their theater, they usually mean just a counter top and stools behind their last row of seats. If the theater has a riser, this will always be on the riser.

If you have a detached bar, with appliances, shelves, etc, then it would likely be on a back or side wall, or in an open-concept room like this theater or BIG's. That is on ground level, and should be. In this build, the whole basement is a combined entertainment "Area". Most people though just want a place to set a plate of food or a drink while watching a movie or a sporting event (Like a super bowl party) - Things like making drinks won't really happen in the vicinity of the theater itself, and noise bleed from things like a microwave, appliances, blender, etc can be distracting. I wanted a 3rd row "Bar" in my theater, but only the countertop/stools to add quick seating and a convenient place to put foodstuffs. It's also nice for a platform like that to put a laptop on.

Here again, Rich has both kinds. Because it is open, he didn't need to put his back countertop on a riser since there was the open space back there, and he could just get taller stools. That works too, but if it was closed in, having the riser just drop off in the back would have been silly. Since it is open, it makes a lot of sense.
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post #548 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 10:17 AM - Thread Starter
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not sure if this helps but this is how it was built. the back bar really does not rest on the riser but is attached to it

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post #549 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by damelon View Post

Depends on your bar. So keep in mind when people do a "Bar" in their theater, they usually mean just a counter top and stools behind their last row of seats. If the theater has a riser, this will always be on the riser.

If you have a detached bar, with appliances, shelves, etc, then it would likely be on a back or side wall, or in an open-concept room like this theater or BIG's. That is on ground level, and should be. In this build, the whole basement is a combined entertainment "Area". Most people though just want a place to set a plate of food or a drink while watching a movie or a sporting event (Like a super bowl party) - Things like making drinks won't really happen in the vicinity of the theater itself, and noise bleed from things like a microwave, appliances, blender, etc can be distracting. I wanted a 3rd row "Bar" in my theater, but only the countertop/stools to add quick seating and a convenient place to put foodstuffs. It's also nice for a platform like that to put a laptop on.

Here again, Rich has both kinds. Because it is open, he didn't need to put his back countertop on a riser since there was the open space back there, and he could just get taller stools. That works too, but if it was closed in, having the riser just drop off in the back would have been silly. Since it is open, it makes a lot of sense.

in my case i did not want to flood the room with stools so the back bar behind the seats works perfect for resting a drink on or a plate, you can easily move a stool from the main bar to it though and take a seat.

when it is movie time popcorn is popped before movie starts always but to be honest once the movie starts you don't hear any background noise at all ..... maybe someday i will upgrade to Seaton subs to ensure i hear nothing from the back around or from the neighbors or from planes flying over head smile.gif
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post #550 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

not sure if this helps but this is how it was built. the back bar really does not rest on the riser but is attached to it


That's actually a really cool picture. It gives the impression that the theater is done, you just peeled off the skin for the photo of the innards! The Skeleton of your theater per say
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post #551 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

in my case i did not want to flood the room with stools so the back bar behind the seats works perfect for resting a drink on or a plate, you can easily move a stool from the main bar to it though and take a seat.

when it is movie time popcorn is popped before movie starts always but to be honest once the movie starts you don't hear any background noise at all ..... maybe someday i will upgrade to Seaton subs to ensure i hear nothing from the back around or from the neighbors or from planes flying over head smile.gif

Would you put the subs behind your AT screen? or in the back of the room ? DIY subwoofer would get my vote. Couple of marty cubes > Seaton Submissive. Those subs are like $2800 a piece right ? You could seriously threaten the structural integrity of your home for that price with a DIY option. tongue.gif Often times you will see further improvement by locating another sub in a different area, which helps greatly with room nodes and nulls. If output is your goal though, adding some DIY options co-located would be an excellent choice. smile.gif For the price of the Seaton you could get a really high quality amp with DSP, and build two monster subwoofers. If your build is done you should have the time right ? rolleyes.gif DIY subs are the best value and performance by far, but it's a serious project for someone who enjoys the experience of doing the project. Time is money.
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That's actually a really cool picture. It gives the impression that the theater is done, you just peeled off the skin for the photo of the innards! The Skeleton of your theater per say

I agree. It was super helpful to see from that angle and in that stage of the build for me too. Greatly appreciated. smile.gif Since my room is one giant room above the garage, and I do want a full bar area against the back wall + a counter top overlooking the second row towards the screen I have some decisions to do. I promised myself I won't put the carpet in until I have built the bar. I'll probably do the wood working myself I think, I don't think I can afford to pay anyone. I might go with pre-built cabinets, IDK... I guess I will have to add up the costs. I made some raised panel cabinet doors for my basement, and they came out pretty good considering I used PINE + MDF centers on the cheap and it was my first time using the router table for such a thing. I'm pretty confident I could nail it on my second attempt if I chose to do it. Sounds fun, and I don't think I could afford the alternatives, I could barely afford the wood eek.gif

Part of our remodel project includes a master bedroom and a big walk in closet for the wife. She got that HOUZZ app on the iphone and ipad and has been snapping shots of all these high end closets. I'm struggling to explain she's showing me $60,000 closets and the total budget of our whole project is that. I'm nearly certain I'll end up building her the walk in closet of her dreams, it seems like I have no option. It's the trade off for her allowing me to do the theater wink.gif I can cut my teeth on the closet, by the time I do bar I should be pro biggrin.gif

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post #552 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Would you put the subs behind your AT screen? or in the back of the room ? DIY subwoofer would get my vote. Couple of marty cubes > Seaton Submissive. Those subs are like $2800 a piece right ? You could seriously threaten the structural integrity of your home for that price with a DIY option. tongue.gif Often times you will see further improvement by locating another sub in a different area, which helps greatly with room nodes and nulls. If output is your goal though, adding some DIY options co-located would be an excellent choice. smile.gif For the price of the Seaton you could get a really high quality amp with DSP, and build two monster subwoofers. If your build is done you should have the time right ? rolleyes.gif DIY subs are the best value and performance by far, but it's a serious project for someone who enjoys the experience of doing the project. Time is money.
I agree. It was super helpful to see from that angle and in that stage of the build for me too. Greatly appreciated. smile.gif Since my room is one giant room above the garage, and I do want a full bar area against the back wall + a counter top overlooking the second row towards the screen I have some decisions to do. I promised myself I won't put the carpet in until I have built the bar. I'll probably do the wood working myself I think, I don't think I can afford to pay anyone. I might go with pre-built cabinets, IDK... I guess I will have to add up the costs. I made some raised panel cabinet doors for my basement, and they came out pretty good considering I used PINE + MDF centers on the cheap and it was my first time using the router table for such a thing. I'm pretty confident I could nail it on my second attempt if I chose to do it. Sounds fun, and I don't think I could afford the alternatives, I could barely afford the wood eek.gif

Part of our remodel project includes a master bedroom and a big walk in closet for the wife. She got that HOUZZ app on the iphone and ipad and has been snapping shots of all these high end closets. I'm struggling to explain she's showing me $60,000 closets and the total budget of our whole project is that. I'm nearly certain I'll end up building her the walk in closet of her dreams, it seems like I have no option. It's the trade off for her allowing me to do the theater wink.gif I can cut my teeth on the closet, by the time I do bar I should be pro biggrin.gif

no i put my subs in the cornere cabinets of on the stage reason being is because i wanted to a good seating distance from the screen so the screen is about 2 feet from the wall maybe less so most subs need more room then that.
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post #553 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 11:18 AM
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no i put my subs in the cornere cabinets of on the stage reason being is because i wanted to a good seating distance from the screen so the screen is about 2 feet from the wall maybe less so most subs need more room then that.

how much room to you have to work with ? That's the advantage of DIY subs, you can port them any tune you want (or not vent) and you can control the size of the enclosure and the dimensions for a perfect fit. Are you limited in depth? Width? Height ? What subs are you running now ?

Also- Sorry for the Ninja editing above. I'm like that. I did not need to crap on your awesome thread with two different posts.

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post #554 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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how much room to you have to work with ? That's the advantage of DIY subs, you can port them any tune you want (or not vent) and you can control the size of the enclosure and the dimensions for a perfect fit. Are you limited in depth? Width? Height ? What subs are you running now ?

Also- Sorry for the Ninja editing above. I'm like that. I did not need to crap on your awesome thread with two different posts.

LOL no worries:)... from the front wall to where the back bar is i memory serves me is 18.5'
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post #555 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 11:26 AM
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LOL no worries:)... from the front wall to where the back bar is i memory serves me is 18.5'

I meant the space you want to fit subwoofers in. How much room do you have for a sub ? What is the max size sub box you can fit is what I was asking.

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post #556 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I meant the space you want to fit subwoofers in. How much room do you have for a sub ? What is the max size sub box you can fit is what I was asking.


oh sorry ... in the cabinets i have 2.5' of width and almost 3' of depth... i can fit most DIY subs and i think the biggest production one would be the HSU ones
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oh sorry ... in the cabinets i have 2.5' of width and almost 3' of depth... i can fit most DIY subs and i think the biggest production one would be the HSU ones

Oh you have lots of options there then. biggrin.gif Do you have subs now and just want an upgrade?
What is important to you the most about them? Output? Low freqency extension? (like below 15z)

You probably have room for double 15" sealed in each cabinet. That would be pretty nice all around.

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post #558 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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and both cabinets are angled in the front to the point that the depth is greater on the outside wall, and less on the inside closest to the screen due to the angle of the cabinet ? Does that area go all the way up ? It's hard to tell from the pictures because it's dark. Most people put bass traps in the corners but if you have the space you could easily do an angled sub box to fit that area, with multiple drivers in each box. Bass is nothing more than physics, bigger drivers with more surface area and xmax/excursion - You could even do a bunch of 12" or 15" all the way up eek.gif It would still be cheaper than the Seaton, and look cool too. I'd expect you'd be opening the face to show them off more often.

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post #560 of 601 Old 04-29-2014, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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and both cabinets are angled in the front to the point that the depth is greater on the outside wall, and less on the inside closest to the screen due to the angle of the cabinet ? Does that area go all the way up ? It's hard to tell from the pictures because it's dark. Most people put bass traps in the corners but if you have the space you could easily do an angled sub box to fit that area, with multiple drivers in each box. Bass is nothing more than physics, bigger drivers with more surface area and xmax/excursion - You could even do a bunch of 12" or 15" all the way up eek.gif It would still be cheaper than the Seaton, and look cool too. I'd expect you'd be opening the face to show them off more often.

yep it goes all the way and there is bastraps back there but are black so are hard to see they are on shelves about 30" up from the floor this allowed for more space for the subs smile.gif

you may want to re search the whole bass trap thing there is debates on if they are effective . some say just putting layer linaccostic then layer of poly and one more layer of linaccoustic on the screen is better/just as good, don't quote me though biggrin.gif
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I think windows are the best bass traps. Just open them and bass goes right out. lol. tongue.gif

/joke
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post #562 of 601 Old 05-17-2014, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Somfy motorizes shade install , I probally should have documented the instal but to be honest it is the same as instaling any other roller shade two brackets and you pop the shade in place run power to it or you can get them with batter tube if you don't feel like running power to it.

I started with this

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality


and then picked up a blackout bind from ikea






the somfy motor comes with a adhesive strip on and one the from ikea was done the same way so all i had to remove the blind from the rod on the idea one then put on hte somfy one quick and easy

the end result came out perfect now when the shade is lowered the theater is pitch black so if want to watch a movie during the day we can without issue and at night it makes the room even darker because it blocks out in light from the moon.

still need to clean up my mess off the bar smile.gif it seems to turn into the catch all when i am i working on something

will get some better pics later


next steps will be integrate into the automation software so when a movie starts the blind will close

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post #563 of 601 Old 05-17-2014, 12:02 PM
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Somfy motorizes shade install , I probally should have documented the instal but to be honest it is the same as instaling any other roller shade two brackets and you pop the shade in place run power to it or you can get them with batter tube if you don't feel like running power to it.

VERY NICE!!! This is something very subtle but to me adds a big wow factor. That's not something you see often in any house.
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post #564 of 601 Old 05-17-2014, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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VERY NICE!!! This is something very subtle but to me adds a big wow factor. That's not something you see often in any house.

Thanks ..only prob is now i am addicted to this autmation stuff and want to do more things like add little motors to the upstairs blinds and make it so they open in the morning and close at night

i have created a monster LOL!!
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post #565 of 601 Old 05-29-2014, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Out with th eold Rack in with the new

this was the old middle atlantic rack, i just was not what i really wnated i wanted something with a nice door and had room to grow into.

So Thanks to BigmouthinDC in pointing me to local place here in VA that had a relly good price on AV Racks i went a head and picked one up

thsi was the old one in back left corner of the pic




had to cut the wall and re trim everything to get the new one to fit but was well worth it





Also wanted to Thank Mario and Cinemar i have owned the cinemar software for some time and sorta tinkered with it but never really spent enough time learning it
i also have irule so was playing with both to see which would provided the automation that i really wanted for the theater and bar area and also give me room to grow and do more thoughout the house.

I rule is great "remote" software package and the learning curve is not to bad pretty much drag drop

Cinemar more of a learning curve for sure but there is so much more it can do and once you get the hang of it the only limit you have is your imagination.

One the biggest goals i had was i wanted the Theater to be user/Wife friendly so with the help of Mario and Dave from cinemar i have been able to automate allot of the theater.

i can now use the Ipad to control the theater and the wife can also do it from here ipad mini.

I have a button in the Theater scene to turn the system on, when pressed it sets up the theater before even getting in it ... it will turn all the equipment on set everthing to the correct settings
it will bring the main theater lights up to 50% and the screen wash lights to 20%.

we can choose a movie through dvdlobby and when we play the movie cinemar turns the screen wash lights off and then dims the main lights to 20% then gives you a minute to get in your seat and comfy and then turns lights fully off.

next if you need to get up from any reason i have automation rule that is always watching the status of the movie player in my case a dune player and if you pause the movie from the software or from any remote control it will bring the main theater lights up to 30% and will turn them back off when you resume the movie.

next i have another automation rule that also monitors the percentage of the movie 99% time when a movie reaches 98% completion you are in the credits so at the point the theater lights come back up to 50% again just like at a movie theater when a movie ends.

and last when i have button to turn the sytem off and runs a background macro that turns all the equipment off and then waites 5 minutes and shuts all the theater lights off .


later i will be adding a insteon somfy contoller and will be adding it the autmation rules so that when a movie starts it will shut the blind that is at the back of the theater.
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post #566 of 601 Old 05-29-2014, 01:49 PM
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Nice, Rich! It's always nice to have the extra rack space, right? Will you be replacing the vent above the rack or have you moved to a different ventilation tactic that's not pictured?

I hear you on the home automation and how addicting it can be. I started with an AMX system back in 1998 and then switched to Crestron in 2004 and am now planning a move to Savant. But before selecting Savant (for reasons I won't get into here), I had a couple of very nice conversations with Mario regarding the Cinemar control system and the associated capabilities / apps. It truly is an incredible system and I would encourage anyone looking to take the next step over the bare-bones automation offerings to give the Cinemar system some very serious consideration. The passion of "tricking out" the system truly shows through in their software offerings and there are things that the Cinemar system can do which no other automation system can replicate very easily from what I have seen.

Do you have an irrigation system tied into your automation? If so, which one? I am still suffering with the generic Rain Bird controller the builder included with our home and am looking for suggestions on an integrated alternative for 12 zones.
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post #567 of 601 Old 05-29-2014, 01:54 PM
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Snickers1

Love the thread and have followed from the beginning. I will be borrowing a lot of what you've done. I'm just starting my theater build and I working on the lighting wiring and low voltage stuff now. I want to do IRULE and integrate that with my lighting in the room like you just explained with having those macros in place when a movie is paused, etc. What light dimmer and hub did you use ? Do you mind stating what equipment you used from Irule? I'm just trying to get to a place where you are at with the WAF and ease of use once completed...

Thanks

Matt
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post #568 of 601 Old 05-29-2014, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice, Rich! It's always nice to have the extra rack space, right? Will you be replacing the vent above the rack or have you moved to a different ventilation tactic that's not pictured?

I hear you on the home automation and how addicting it can be. I started with an AMX system back in 1998 and then switched to Crestron in 2004 and am now planning a move to Savant. But before selecting Savant (for reasons I won't get into here), I had a couple of very nice conversations with Mario regarding the Cinemar control system and the associated capabilities / apps. It truly is an incredible system and I would encourage anyone looking to take the next step over the bare-bones automation offerings to give the Cinemar system some very serious consideration. The passion of "tricking out" the system truly shows through in their software offerings and there are things that the Cinemar system can do which no other automation system can replicate very easily from what I have seen.

Do you have an irrigation system tied into your automation? If so, which one? I am still suffering with the generic Rain Bird controller the builder included with our home and am looking for suggestions on an integrated alternative for 12 zones.


the new rack has fans but are a little loud so will be swapping them out for quiter ones ... going to monitor the temp but think i will be fine with jus the rack fans if not i will have to vent out above teh rack again.

+1 for your suggestion for anyone geting started to talk to Mario or check out there software. if someone is a die ard DIYer then it is right up your alley.

i do not have a sprinkler system yet.
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post #569 of 601 Old 05-29-2014, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Snickers1

Love the thread and have followed from the beginning. I will be borrowing a lot of what you've done. I'm just starting my theater build and I working on the lighting wiring and low voltage stuff now. I want to do IRULE and integrate that with my lighting in the room like you just explained with having those macros in place when a movie is paused, etc. What light dimmer and hub did you use ? Do you mind stating what equipment you used from Irule? I'm just trying to get to a place where you are at with the WAF and ease of use once completed...

Thanks

Matt


Irule can do some of it but for meor the WAF forceing myself to have an ipad or ipad in my lap at all times during a movie just it not really for me. i would rather use the autmation software to control everything and be able to laucn the movie. it can sit in my lap if choose to. but it easier to have a small harmony or anything else in lap during a movie all you really need to do during a movie is raise or lower the volume or pause.
with Irule if you shoose to raise change or lower volume or pause you have find the botton to turn it on then i may be bright. i don't think irule is capable of doing stuff like bringing up the lights when the credits role.
it is a minor thing but it does ad the wow factor for sure.

fyi also with irule i think you need the isy for insteon lights to get two way feed back.
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post #570 of 601 Old 05-30-2014, 09:03 AM
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Out with th eold Rack in with the new

this was the old middle atlantic rack, i just was not what i really wnated i wanted something with a nice door and had room to grow into.

So Thanks to BigmouthinDC in pointing me to local place here in VA that had a relly good price on AV Racks i went a head and picked one up

thsi was the old one in back left corner of the pic




had to cut the wall and re trim everything to get the new one to fit but was well worth it





Also wanted to Thank Mario and Cinemar i have owned the cinemar software for some time and sorta tinkered with it but never really spent enough time learning it
i also have irule so was playing with both to see which would provided the automation that i really wanted for the theater and bar area and also give me room to grow and do more thoughout the house.

I rule is great "remote" software package and the learning curve is not to bad pretty much drag drop

Cinemar more of a learning curve for sure but there is so much more it can do and once you get the hang of it the only limit you have is your imagination.

One the biggest goals i had was i wanted the Theater to be user/Wife friendly so with the help of Mario and Dave from cinemar i have been able to automate allot of the theater.

i can now use the Ipad to control the theater and the wife can also do it from here ipad mini.

I have a button in the Theater scene to turn the system on, when pressed it sets up the theater before even getting in it ... it will turn all the equipment on set everthing to the correct settings
it will bring the main theater lights up to 50% and the screen wash lights to 20%.

we can choose a movie through dvdlobby and when we play the movie cinemar turns the screen wash lights off and then dims the main lights to 20% then gives you a minute to get in your seat and comfy and then turns lights fully off.

next if you need to get up from any reason i have automation rule that is always watching the status of the movie player in my case a dune player and if you pause the movie from the software or from any remote control it will bring the main theater lights up to 30% and will turn them back off when you resume the movie.

next i have another automation rule that also monitors the percentage of the movie 99% time when a movie reaches 98% completion you are in the credits so at the point the theater lights come back up to 50% again just like at a movie theater when a movie ends.

and last when i have button to turn the sytem off and runs a background macro that turns all the equipment off and then waites 5 minutes and shuts all the theater lights off .


later i will be adding a insteon somfy contoller and will be adding it the autmation rules so that when a movie starts it will shut the blind that is at the back of the theater.

You're very welcome Rich. Careful, it looks like you have the automation itch!

Perhaps we should start working on WifeLobby. The goal of the app would be to make sure the wife approves of every automation purchase you want to make. smile.gif
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