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post #31 of 586 Old 05-29-2012, 05:41 PM - Thread Starter
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well i think we have decided on colors and cabinets

big might like the colors but not 100%

shaker style cabinets

not 100% on that shade of grey may go a little darker




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post #32 of 586 Old 05-29-2012, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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the hvac main trunk is now framed in ..... yes i know some will say i could of framed it tad closer to the have trunk line but even with new homes not every thing is build perfectly level and straight so i framed where i knew it would not hit at point and i did not 1by wood because the width of the box is over 40inches .....




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post #33 of 586 Old 05-29-2012, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
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i will ut 2 two pot lights in this for above the back of the bar




also framed the equipment closet to the right of the bar this is the best spot imo , very easy access to vent it outside the house and in spot that will take no space away from the theater area

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post #34 of 586 Old 05-29-2012, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

well to run about 45ft cable from garage main panel to basement and install subpanel he wants 850$ seems very high to me

and to do everything all electrical he wants 3650$ again seems very high to me
we are talking maybe 25 outlets and of course the can lights which is maybe 16 lights...

not happy at all thinking plan "B" is do most of it myself and pay to have subpanel installed and pay to have all the circuits connected to the new panel

well i got very lucky one of my long time friends and co workers was a electrician before getting into the IT field and will be helping me do all the electrical so i breath easier now
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post #35 of 586 Old 05-29-2012, 06:55 PM
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post #36 of 586 Old 05-29-2012, 07:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Baltic Blue, yes I can relate.

i swear i forgot exactly what colors you used but i love that color and it dawned on me afterwards..... but i really like that color!!!
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post #37 of 586 Old 05-30-2012, 06:48 AM
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snickers-

Did you get a chance to find out what size screw you were using in the joist mufflers, to keep from penetrtating the subfloor above?
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post #38 of 586 Old 05-30-2012, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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snickers-

Did you get a chance to find out what size screw you were using in the joist mufflers, to keep from penetrtating the subfloor above?

sent you a pm .... sorry for the delay
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post #39 of 586 Old 06-10-2012, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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have been working on the electrical, and for some crazy reason i picked today a hot day to work in the garage to run the new cable from the main breaker box to the new sub panel in the basement, ran 6/3 cable and will being the electrician install 50amp fuse in the main panel to run the sub panel.

700


700


700


bought a box with 12 circuits but may have to return it and get one a little larger


friday have a hvac guy coming to run all the ducts and return, he understand what i am doing and will run insulted ducts for me.
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post #40 of 586 Old 06-12-2012, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

snickers-


Did you get a chance to find out what size screw you were using in the joist mufflers, to keep from penetrtating the subfloor above?

Quote:
Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post


sent you a pm .... sorry for the delay
A few questions - 1. did the double drywall and GG between the joists help? Can you tell right away? 2. Did you do both layers at one time or did you put up one layer, and then go back and do a second layer? 3. I'd like to know as well, what screw size you used?

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post #41 of 586 Old 06-12-2012, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

A few questions - 1. did the double drywall and GG between the joists help? Can you tell right away? 2. Did you do both layers at one time or did you put up one layer, and then go back and do a second layer? 3. I'd like to know as well, what screw size you used?

1. The glue needs to dry for 30 days, so often no immediate improvement.

2. Do both layers separately

3. First layer = 1 1/8" screw. Second layer = 1 3/4" screw, assuming drywall layers are 5/8"

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post #42 of 586 Old 06-12-2012, 10:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blipszyc View Post

A few questions - 1. did the double drywall and GG between the joists help? Can you tell right away? 2. Did you do both layers at one time or did you put up one layer, and then go back and do a second layer? 3. I'd like to know as well, what screw size you used?

First Ted is correct in screw size (remember the floor above in my situation was 3/4 sub floor and then 3/4 hardwood if you floor is sub floor then carpet you may need a shorter screw)
as far as a difference yes i noticed right away but that i think was because i sure mass, as the green glue cures it will get even better.... also i have read that once your room is fully drywalled you will get the echo effect back until you get your walls treatments done.

so far i am very happy with Info Ted has provided on working with GG and double layer drywall between the joist i know it will get even better when i do the sound clips and hat channel then two more layers of 5/8 drywall with GG between.
if you look at my first post you will see a diagram that Ted provided, there is also a couple other builders that have done this process, i think BigmouthinDC used this in one of his builds and was very pleased with the results.
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post #43 of 586 Old 06-12-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by snickers1 View Post

First Ted is correct in screw size (remember the floor above in my situation was 3/4 sub floor and then 3/4 hardwood if you floor is sub floor then carpet you may need a shorter screw)
as far as a difference yes i noticed right away but that i think was because i sure mass, as the green glue cures it will get even better.... also i have read that once your room is fully drywalled you will get the echo effect back until you get your walls treatments done.
so far i am very happy with Info Ted has provided on working with GG and double layer drywall between the joist i know it will get even better when i do the sound clips and hat channel then two more layers of 5/8 drywall with GG between.
if you look at my first post you will see a diagram that Ted provided, there is also a couple other builders that have done this process, i think BigmouthinDC used this in one of his builds and was very pleased with the results.
Due to the nature of my ceiling joists I was planning on doing at least a single layer of DW + GG between the joists and then clips, channel, DD+GG, but I wasn't sure if I should do the 2nd layer between the joists. It's just my wife and I and 2 dogs so don't want to go too crazy. The floor above is hardwood, so right now I can hear everything. Unfortunately, I don't really know how thick the subfloor and as I look up at the ceiling I can see the wonderful job (NOT! mad.gif) that the flooring crew did. There's so many brads poking through and nails that missed the joists the first layer is going to be a big PIA. I was kinda hoping the change in noise would be relatively quick so that I could asses the first layer and then decide on a second.

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post #44 of 586 Old 06-12-2012, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Due to the nature of my ceiling joists I was planning on doing at least a single layer of DW + GG between the joists and then clips, channel, DD+GG, but I wasn't sure if I should do the 2nd layer between the joists. It's just my wife and I and 2 dogs so don't want to go too crazy. The floor above is hardwood, so right now I can hear everything. Unfortunately, I don't really know how thick the subfloor and as I look up at the ceiling I can see the wonderful job (NOT! mad.gif) that the flooring crew did. There's so many brads poking through and nails that missed the joists the first layer is going to be a big PIA. I was kinda hoping the change in noise would be relatively quick so that I could asses the first layer and then decide on a second.

mine also had some nails from the hard wood i pretty much bent them over and banged all nails flush to the floor... no it is not fun, once you to the first layer the second layer goes very easy and much faster.... it is just me and my wife and my 14yr son and our pug... it did the pain staking double layer of drywall between the joist not only for making it so less noise would travel upstairs but also because how it will improve the sound quality of the theater area.... my design is a open a concept not the ideal space for a theater most if not all will tell you the a sealed room is much easier to deal with... with that said this is why i have gone a little extra with the sound proofing... even if i had a closed off room and had hardwood above i would have still down it exactly the way i did it.... why spend all the money of GG and Drywall and do it half way only to be questioning your decision when done??? i just delt with the headache of working between the joist and when i am done there will be no chance of me saying hmm what if i did this or that i wondering if this or that would of made a difference..... just my two cents
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post #45 of 586 Old 06-19-2012, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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i have not updated in a while but last week had the HVAC guys out they installed 3 new vents/runs all which where quite duck and also a new return, also ihave installed the electrical distro panel and it now hocked up to the main breaker box in the garage. running 6/3 wire is not so much fun smile.gif
but it is all done. i have hocked up all the circuits except what will be going into the theater area.

getting very close to drywall time, all that is left before drywall is running speaker and RG6 and cat6 cabling , and hanging the hat channel on the ceiling so with that said i need some opinions of the soffet around the theater area

i have a set of stairs and two beams to contend with,

option 1 i was thinking of doing the soffet and pot lights inside back boxes in the ceiling and rope light in soffet

option 2 lights in soffet like bacon race and stair ceiling on either side of beam

open to any thought and any idea

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post #46 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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ok i am to the point where i am getting very close to the drywall stage
my basement height is 8ft so to save headroom i will be doing this

600


My question is in the pic i makes perfect since you measure eight inches from the wall for your first row of clips and then 24" from the wall and so on
this would work perfectly is there is no hvac in the way or a in my case it seems like a joist is there, my biggest concern it making sure a 8ft piece of drywall falls in the right place
any tips from someone that has maybe done this

i could just do it the normal way but fear i will loose to much ceiling height has anyone attached whisper clips directly to the joist that had a 8ft ceiling ? and if so how much ceiling height was lost?
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post #47 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 10:31 AM
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Depends on the clip. WhisperClip is 1 5/8" from joist to new drywall attachment point. IB-1 clip is only 1 1/8"

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post #48 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Depends on the clip. WhisperClip is 1 5/8" from joist to new drywall attachment point. IB-1 clip is only 1 1/8"

i have the whisper clips
300
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post #49 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 10:36 AM
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From what I understand the ends do not have to fall out exactly on a channel. When you stagger the second layer it will support that unsupported edge. You probably don't want the channel too far away from the edge though. Maybe 6"-8" as the max overhang on the channel.

I didn't necessarily use this practice though. I was able to lay out my channels to match the OSB that I put up.
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post #50 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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From what I understand the ends do not have to fall out exactly on a channel. When you stagger the second layer it will support that unsupported edge. You probably don't want the channel too far away from the edge though. Maybe 6"-8" as the max overhang on the channel.

is this is true my life just got much much better .... can this be confirmed?

when i started laying it out it looked i would be no more then 3 to 4 inches from the edge of the drywall
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post #51 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 10:43 AM
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I would PM BIG or Ted and varify. The information that I stated I took from another post BIG made but I hate to say that it is a verbatim quote.
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post #52 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 11:07 AM
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That's correct. An advantage of using 5/8" drywall

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post #53 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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That's correct. An advantage of using 5/8" drywall

is if the drywall is at most 3 to 5 inches from the hat channel i am safe ?
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post #54 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 11:12 AM
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Yep

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post #55 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Yep

happy day to me!!!! i got so frustrated when i started this weekend getting these clips in place that i just moved on to something else smile.gif

thanks Ted
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post #56 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 11:15 AM
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smile.gif

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post #57 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 11:27 AM
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Did you install the Kerdi shower system. I have used that system many times. I think it is one of the best on the market, especially if you have an irregular shower layout. I usually just use a mud bed instead of the foam pre-sloped floor pan.

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post #58 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Did you install the Kerdi shower system. I have used that system many times. I think it is one of the best on the market, especially if you have an irregular shower layout. I usually just use a mud bed instead of the foam pre-sloped floor pan.

not yet i still need to move the floor drain .... debating on moving the center of where the shower will be or just move the drain a little because kerdi has two different models one with center drain and with drain close to wall
my shower will be 30 or 32 x60 .....i think the kit is a tad pricey but seems to be well worth it
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post #59 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 12:52 PM
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If you want to save money on the wall boards look at FinPan instead of the Kerdi boards. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger for my steam shower.

http://www.finpan.com/backer-board/propanel.php
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post #60 of 586 Old 06-25-2012, 01:43 PM - Thread Starter
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If you want to save money on the wall boards look at FinPan instead of the Kerdi boards. I'm getting ready to pull the trigger for my steam shower.
http://www.finpan.com/backer-board/propanel.php

wow where can you get it thou ?
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