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post #91 of 171 Old 03-25-2013, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I have a turn, I'm sure the drywall delivery guys are going to really hate my ass by the time they are done moving that drywall in. I need to make sure the drywall will fit. What if it doesn't? I know I can get a full size mattress down the stairs but that is only 6.5' long. But at this phase in my project I am getting lumber first...where would you go to get lumber? I've heard Tart Lumber in Sterling is pretty good...any other suggestions? I'll give Allied a call too.
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post #92 of 171 Old 03-25-2013, 06:44 PM
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go buy 3 1x2s, cut one in half and build a 4x8 frame. Practice getting it down the stairs, When you call Allied please don't mention I sent you, I already have a reputation for difficult deliveries.

I actually did this last summer for a project and learned exactly how the sheets had to come down the stairs (what angle at the bottom) , I lined the stairwell with plastic, removed the handrail and taped protective padding on affected woodwork. the guys did a lot of swearing in Spanish, but they got it done without incident and I tipped them a total of $1 a sheet.
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post #93 of 171 Old 07-05-2013, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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3.5 months later:



Logan where are you? :P

Going to buy lumber and start framing this weekend.
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post #94 of 171 Old 07-05-2013, 03:02 PM
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post #95 of 171 Old 07-05-2013, 07:12 PM
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Try Capital Building Supply, plenty drywall, insulation and channel, not sure about lumber though.
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post #96 of 171 Old 07-05-2013, 08:03 PM
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nope, no lumber, metal studs
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post #97 of 171 Old 07-05-2013, 10:25 PM - Thread Starter
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post #98 of 171 Old 07-06-2013, 05:10 AM
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If you are going to have your lumber delivered yes Tart. If you want to hand pick your own selecting only the straightest pieces then you have to go either Lowes or Home Depot. All the crap is always on top of the pile so you need to dig deep. Tart is an old school lumber yard you pay for what you want without ever seeing it at the desk and they will either deliver to your home or bring/help load your vehicle. At that time you can reject pieces and get substitutes but you don't have a lot of time to make a decision so you need to act fast. Smoot lumber in Alexandria has some great looking lumber. It is also old school. The difference with Smoot is after paying you drive into their warehouse and park right by the stack of studs and start loading with the help of a worker. Again you can reject pieces but you need to act fast.
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post #99 of 171 Old 07-06-2013, 03:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmm, OK thanks for the info. I might just hit up Home Depot then. Question: A friend of mine is saying I should only get as much lumber as I can use in a day or two as if it sits for too long it will dry out and warp pretty quickly...is this good advice?
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post #100 of 171 Old 07-06-2013, 03:46 PM
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It is pretty good advice in the winter when basements are bone dry. In the summer if your basement is humid you can store the lumber longer before it starts drying out, warping and twisting. One trick I've used when I was a weekend only builder was to stack the studs in a tight pile on top of a waterproof tarp then folding it over totally wrapping the lumber. That stabilizes the moisture content of the wood until you get ready to use it. Pressure treated wood used for the bottom plate is the most susceptible to drying out and warping, those you want to use immediately
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post #101 of 171 Old 07-08-2013, 08:01 AM
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Logan where are you? :P

ZZZZzzzzzzz.......Huh? Wha...? Who turned on the lights?

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post #102 of 171 Old 07-08-2013, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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So the ceiling joists are 107" off the floor. This means the finished ceiling is going about about 8' 8", right? How much room does that leave for the soffits, keeping in mind that the soffit will extend all the way to the entrance:


Right now the area for the back row is going to be 13' wide. Is there any benefit to add 4-6" to the width? I could maybe squeeze that much if it would be more beneficial, but probably not more than that.
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post #103 of 171 Old 07-08-2013, 08:44 AM
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Just make the soffit big enough to hide the duct work at the front of the room and continue it the same height around the room. you have more than enough height. build ceiling and walls first including drywall, soffit later. get moving. Start framing. Friday you said you were going to buy lumber, its Monday, got lumber?
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post #104 of 171 Old 07-08-2013, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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No, family stuff took over the weekend. I did get some other stuff out off my honey-to-do list though, so that clears the path a little bit. smile.gif If I have some time tonight to do framing I will hit up Home Depot and get enough to do one or two sections. I don't want to buy the lumber and have it sit for 3-4 days, esp. the pressure treated wood like you said. My plan is to build 8' sections at a time, as that is probably the biggest I can handle without more help.
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post #105 of 171 Old 07-08-2013, 10:25 AM
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Question: A friend of mine is saying I should only get as much lumber as I can use in a day or two as if it sits for too long it will dry out and warp pretty quickly...is this good advice?

I only bought the lumber I could use at a time. But not for the reason of it drying out and twisting. It happened a couple of times but not often, mostly if I had an extra stud or two that I didn't use right way and then let it sit there for a LOOONG time. What I found out is that the length of time it was going to take me to finish was the REAL driver behind that. I didn't have the room to have a big pile of lumber sitting around getting in the way. And I did the HD pick it out thing. So I would go on a Wednesday or Thursday evening (when they put out the new, fresh piles for the weekend warriors) and pick through to get the 20-30 I knew I could use up over the weekend. They were easier to load and carry down to the basement, too.

I often found that two or three layers down I would hit a "sweet spot" and get 10-12 right in a row all perfectly straight. Sometimes, I had to dig deeper, but there is almost always a sweet spot somewhere in that pile.

Also I found it cost effective to spend the extra 20-50 cents on the premium lumber to get more straight (and drier, therefore lighter) amd less knoted studs at a time. And my ceiling was low enogh that I could get the shorter studs, so that saved a few bucks, too.

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post #106 of 171 Old 07-08-2013, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

. Start framing. Friday you said you were going to buy lumber, its Monday, got lumber?

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post #107 of 171 Old 07-20-2013, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Going to start framing today. I am going to do the far wall first. Do I need to remove this insulation and replace it with rigid foam? I am planning on placing the studs about 1" away from the wall.

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post #108 of 171 Old 07-20-2013, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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So I looked Morph1c's build since he lives in the same county as me, it looks like he left the insulation up. However I only have the insulation on one wall (doesn't make ANY sense to me why they did this), but the guidelines given to me by my county here don't specify any insulation behind the wall as long as there is insulation between the studs. So I guess I am OK to leave it on one side and not put anything up on the other?
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post #109 of 171 Old 07-20-2013, 02:53 PM
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insulation below grade is required for exterior walls not for walls between units. You can leave the insulation in place just don't place faced insulation in front of it as it will created a double vapor barrier. use whatever you want on the other walls, basically the cheapest.
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post #110 of 171 Old 07-21-2013, 07:00 AM - Thread Starter
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I still need to put batts between the studs on this wall for soundproofing, so I will be OK with using unfaced batts?
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post #111 of 171 Old 07-21-2013, 07:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Also, this wall does have dirt on the other side...but it is the patio between my unit and my neighbor's unit. So that isn't considered an "external wall"?
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post #112 of 171 Old 07-21-2013, 01:49 PM
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your inspector was confused. Any exterior foundation wall against dirt should have insulation.
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post #113 of 171 Old 07-21-2013, 01:50 PM
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yes unfaced on the wall with the existing vapor barrier.
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post #114 of 171 Old 07-21-2013, 04:54 PM
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You could glue 2" XPS foam boards directly to the walls, seal the joints with mastic, and have a much better thermal/vapor barrier than you would with batts. When you build your frame wall in front of that, you can add to the insulation by using un-faced batts since the foam provides the vapor barrier. Use this time to address the band board area as well as its usually ripe with leaks.
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post #115 of 171 Old 07-24-2013, 04:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I haven't been able to get started on framing...a distraction came up:



This is a coat closet on the main level. When installing shelves, the builder drilled an anchor right into the drain for the master bath. I think the screw finally rusted to a point where it started to leak in the past couple of months. This is actually the same pipe in the photos of the unfinished room.

I will say one thing: Finishing drywall is a pain in the ass. I see why people hire it out. I might do the same.
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post #116 of 171 Old 07-24-2013, 05:11 PM
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I hope that isn't a duct tape patch
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post #117 of 171 Old 07-24-2013, 06:12 PM - Thread Starter
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That was just temporary until I had time to do a proper repair. smile.gif
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post #118 of 171 Old 07-24-2013, 06:38 PM
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Subscribing to your Thread - trying to learn as much as I can.

Good luck on the build.
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post #119 of 171 Old 07-25-2013, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, I'll need it, I am sure. I imagine there are going to be plenty of "leaning opportunities" in this thread. smile.gif
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post #120 of 171 Old 08-09-2013, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Big, can I just use faced insulation on the uninsulated wall or should I put up some foam board?
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