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post #151 of 171 Old 12-13-2013, 08:19 AM - Thread Starter
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You hit the nail on the head...he has too much time on his hands and he overcomplicates things. I have had to reel him in many times when he has been helping me with this project. smile.gif The thing is he overcomplicates stuff which is really simple but the stuff which needs extra time and attention to detail he wants to gloss over. Story of his life.

Anyway, yeah he has had bad experience with tapcons and says grouted bolts are how heavy machinery is secured in concrete. I don't really have the knowledge to argue with him so if it will work I'll just let him do it I suppose. I doubt he has any kind of special technique, is just going to drill a hole, put in a bolt and fill with grout.

My approach here might be that unless we can get our hands on some anchor bolt grout, we should probably stick with tapcons. Or at least try a tapcon and see how strong it is.


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post #152 of 171 Old 03-20-2014, 06:05 PM - Thread Starter
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So after quite a hiatus I am back on this. What do you guys think about 5.1 vs 7.1? A couple of people have told me the theater isn't really large enough to need a 7.1 set up. If I do 5.1 I can put up some sconces, if I do 7.1 I am going to avoid the sconces...so it has an impact on the wiring I am doing for the lighting.

Also what is the best strategy for roughing in recessed lights for inspection? I am going to do backer boxes so I don't want to buy new work lights since the backer boxes use old work lights.


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post #153 of 171 Old 03-20-2014, 07:29 PM
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Are you planning on having the clips and channel up for the inspection? if yes, go ahead and hang the boxes and leave a coil of wire in each box. You may need to explain what your are doing and be convincing when you describe it. I've had plenty of dangling wires pass inspection.


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post #154 of 171 Old 03-20-2014, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I wasn't planning on having clips & channel up, as I would have to take them down again to install insulation. Would it be better to have them up?


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post #155 of 171 Old 03-20-2014, 08:25 PM
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no, it raises more questions. How were you planning on hanging your backer boxes?

Lets assume no boxes, you can try just hanging coils of Romex in the appropriate locations and explain your plans to the inspector. I have done this in the past and it passed. Can't guarantee yours will. If all the rest of your electrical rough in looks neat and to code he will assume you know what you are doing. If he has a bad feeling he may want more evidence that you can do it correctly. Everything needs to be secured/supported and not prone to being pieced by screws, Grounds need to be bonded in the electrical boxes (twisted with crimp connectors) .


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post #156 of 171 Old 03-21-2014, 11:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Hmm, good point. I guess I could put up the channel just where the backer boxes will be.


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post #157 of 171 Old 05-14-2014, 01:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Big, how did you like the QuietBox that you used in one of your recent builds? I am thinking for $40 each, it's a lot easier than building my own. I will probably need 6.


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post #158 of 171 Old 05-14-2014, 01:48 PM
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I hate building backer boxes and with my time and materials it is probably a wash to my clients. A couple arrived damaged and they shipped replacements. I do prefer a wider bottom edge but you can easily tack one on. Lastly you need to consider if the size fixtures you want will fit, I prefer remodel cans for ease of drywall installation and only the smallest fit in those boxes.


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post #159 of 171 Old 05-15-2014, 04:59 AM
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Hello,

Post #27 in my 'build' is an idea I plan to use which I hope to be lower cost & less effort than a traditional backer box.   To be fair, I haven't yet done it - so, can't speak from experience, but it is definitely my plan.  My inexperienced 'logical' (although maybe faulty) thinking is that this should be at least no worse sound reduction than a comparable Backer Box.

 

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1524856/hall-o-cinema-theater-construction-design-questions

 

After some feedback expressing some slight concern about using MDF as the base layers, I may reconfigure and use either Fire rated drywall and/or cement board for the assembly vs MDF.   Edit... I have decided that my 'very back' layer will be the 3/4"MDF,  the next layer (still solid other than wire hole) will be 5/8" fire rated drywall, then the 'layer' with the drilled out circle will be two sheets of 3/8" Fire Rated Drywall.   Then the two 'in room' 5/8" layers of drywall.   

 

The actual light I plan to use  is probably both a 4" & 6" version of this, I am planning to use the 90 CRI (color render index) version vs the 80.  In another thread, I think Cinemar, the lights used were 'warmer' (2700 vs these at 3000) and they had a 90 CRI:

 

Halo SLD405830WH 4" Surface LED Downlight

Pasted from <http://www.readywholesaleelectric.com/hasl4suleddo.html>

 

The one I purchased to 'test' I bought from Menard's, and have never purchased from the above place - but they appeared to have the best price in the 10 minutes I looked.

 

Kevin


Thanks!

Kevin


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post #160 of 171 Old 05-19-2014, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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It looks like these 6" cans will fit in the quiet box. Just leaving this link here so I don't lose it. Either these or some 4" cans.


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post #161 of 171 Old 05-19-2014, 08:31 PM
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That 6 inch can will just barely fit. you need to be really accurate in your meausurement.


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post #162 of 171 Old 05-20-2014, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I will definitely get a QuietBox and measure both the box and the can before buying the cans. If the can is 7.5" high, and the box is 8" high, there should be over an inch of clearance once you include the drywall and a wider flange around the base of the quietbox. It would be much simpler if I just went with 4" lights. 4" LED lights have about 50 watts effective output, which should be enough if I use 6 of them in my theater. I am just concerned that it might not have enough spread. Have you used 4" can lights?


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post #163 of 171 Old 05-20-2014, 05:56 PM
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all the time. But I would want more than just 6 in the ceiling. I would do screen wash and some perimeter soffit down lights.


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post #164 of 171 Old 05-21-2014, 07:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Those are just accent lights, right? Based on the square footage of the room, the space needs about 350W of lighting. The accent lights are also not going in the ceiling so I don't need quietboxes for those.


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post #165 of 171 Old 05-21-2014, 10:51 AM
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Bacon Race is lit entirely with perimeter "accent lights", no ceiling lights


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post #166 of 171 Old 05-22-2014, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I know you built quite a few theaters only with soffit lighting. What I mean is that if I have 350W of recessed lighting, any additional lighting is purely for aesthetics.


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post #167 of 171 Old 05-22-2014, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozziegt View Post

Yeah, I will definitely get a QuietBox

ozziegt, would you be willing to share the link on the QuietBox? If Big hates to build backer boxes then so do I.

Thanks


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post #168 of 171 Old 05-22-2014, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 24Changer View Post

ozziegt, would you be willing to share the link on the QuietBox? If Big hates to build backer boxes then so do I.

Thanks

I believe I found the link in another post ~ thanks
http://soundisolationstore.com/shop/product/quietbox-recessed-light-soundproofing/?gclid=CPDohcyA_LsCFYZi7AodexcAxg


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post #169 of 171 Old 05-23-2014, 06:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Yep, that's it.


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post #170 of 171 Old Yesterday, 02:05 PM - Thread Starter
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This project has been on the far back burner since my son was born, but now I am finally getting time to work on it again. Any suggestions on how to do the fireblocking while maintaining sound isolation?


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post #171 of 171 Old Yesterday, 03:19 PM
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moderately stuff the gaps with mineral wool (roxul insulation) some inspectors will say "fine".


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