Anyway, yeah he has had bad experience with tapcons and says grouted bolts are how heavy machinery is secured in concrete. I don't really have the knowledge to argue with him so if it will work I'll just let him do it I suppose. I doubt he has any kind of special technique, is just going to drill a hole, put in a bolt and fill with grout.
My approach here might be that unless we can get our hands on some anchor bolt grout, we should probably stick with tapcons. Or at least try a tapcon and see how strong it is.
Also what is the best strategy for roughing in recessed lights for inspection? I am going to do backer boxes so I don't want to buy new work lights since the backer boxes use old work lights.
Lets assume no boxes, you can try just hanging coils of Romex in the appropriate locations and explain your plans to the inspector. I have done this in the past and it passed. Can't guarantee yours will. If all the rest of your electrical rough in looks neat and to code he will assume you know what you are doing. If he has a bad feeling he may want more evidence that you can do it correctly. Everything needs to be secured/supported and not prone to being pieced by screws, Grounds need to be bonded in the electrical boxes (twisted with crimp connectors) .
Post #27 in my 'build' is an idea I plan to use which I hope to be lower cost & less effort than a traditional backer box. To be fair, I haven't yet done it - so, can't speak from experience, but it is definitely my plan. My inexperienced 'logical' (although maybe faulty) thinking is that this should be at least no worse sound reduction than a comparable Backer Box.
After some feedback expressing some slight concern about using MDF as the base layers, I may reconfigure and use either Fire rated drywall and/or cement board for the assembly vs MDF. Edit... I have decided that my 'very back' layer will be the 3/4"MDF, the next layer (still solid other than wire hole) will be 5/8" fire rated drywall, then the 'layer' with the drilled out circle will be two sheets of 3/8" Fire Rated Drywall. Then the two 'in room' 5/8" layers of drywall.
The actual light I plan to use is probably both a 4" & 6" version of this, I am planning to use the 90 CRI (color render index) version vs the 80. In another thread, I think Cinemar, the lights used were 'warmer' (2700 vs these at 3000) and they had a 90 CRI:
Halo SLD405830WH 4" Surface LED Downlight
Pasted from <http://www.readywholesaleelectric.com/hasl4suleddo.html>
The one I purchased to 'test' I bought from Menard's, and have never purchased from the above place - but they appeared to have the best price in the 10 minutes I looked.
I believe I found the link in another post ~ thanks
Creekside Stone Cinema