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Old 09-14-2015, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, the fan location will be good. I've installed a box for an outlet right next to where the fan is going to be mounted and the closet where I am installing the fan is unfinished so there won't be issues with access. As far as return goes, I am just going to tell him I am installing a grate above the door for the air to exit the room. That grate will turn into a dead vent once drywall is up.

I didn't tap the HVAC because I am concerned it won't provide enough airflow when watching movies, I would probably have to turn on the HVAC fan to get enough airflow. I also didn't want it blowing hot air into an already warm room during the winter months. In retrospect, I probably should have just tapped the HVAC for the inspection and then decided what to do later.

The Vortex is something I found when I was doing research this morning. Seems to be quieter than the Fantech fans. It's not the plastic one, it's all metal. Linky I got an 8" fan so I hope it's enough airflow...seems to be quite a big fan for the size space I am using.

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Old 09-16-2015, 05:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone think there will be benefit in installing a muffler like this one inside a dead vent?
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:19 AM
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yes there will be benefit but there is nothing that is rocket science about the muffler, it is just a sealed pathway lined with an absorbing material, I make them all the time inside of soffits. Just create a sealed pathway (MDF. Plywood or Drywall) and line it with linacoustic. I think one term I''ve seen used is a pressurized plenum. There is a benefit if the area is large.

One version here: The "Bacon Race" Theater / Patio / Bar Project

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Old 09-16-2015, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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So looking at that, it looks like you do that in addition to the dead vent? So basically that goes at the end of the dead vent. I think I had seen that before because I am planning on doing something like that too so I can use a larger grill (maybe more than one) and hopefully mitigate the noise of air rushing out of the vents.

BTW, I passed mechanical today! Framing is tomorrow! We really had to explain to the inspector what we were doing and why were not stealing air from the adjacent room.

This thread has been short on pics...hopefully I can fix that tonight.
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:02 AM
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Those were at the ends of supply and return for his forced air system. Before you start sealing everything up from my experience with an air exchange systems I've learned a few things.

The cool air being drawn in is not as cool as directly from the HVAC. You will need more of it. The intakes and outputs for the air exchange need to be far apart so you don't create a short circuit effect outside the theater. The volume of air required can be noisy so oversizing the ducts and plenum boots is important. Keep the motors as far from the theater as possible,you should have two, one for the supply and one for the return.
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Old 09-17-2015, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozziegt View Post
I also didn't want it blowing hot air into an already warm room during the winter months.
you could use damper grills. Adding a supply line off the AC could boost your cooling capacity and then close it off in the winter.
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Old 09-17-2015, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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you could use damper grills. Adding a supply line off the AC could boost your cooling capacity and then close it off in the winter.
Yeah, I still may do that, just pipe it into the ventilation I am using for the fan.

Passed framing today. Took him about 30 seconds. He said I don't need to do an insulation inspection, so I am good to go until the final inspection!

Here are things which may be useful for homeowners:

For the recessed lighting, I just screwed the quietbox directly to the joist for the inspection. I explained to the inspector that I was going to use remodeling cans so that is why they are not in place yet. He didn't object. I'll decouple the boxes when it is time to install the drywall.



For mechanical, I had to install the fan for the dead vent. This is 8" ducting. This closet is going to remain unfinished so I will have plenty of room to make changes / adjustments after the room is done. With this huge 750 CFM fan running, the only sound I hear in the adjacent room is the air rushing through the grate. With the speed controller in place and proper design of the plenums, I should be able to mitigate any fan noise inside the theater. The fan will probably need to be isolated from the joists as some humming is flanking into the room above.



This end of the fan is going to connect straight into the dead vent. The soffit for the vent is going to run across the room to the other side, where I am going to put a plenum with a couple registers.



Here is how I did the fireblocking. Basically just took mineral wool and stuffed it into any gaps. The inspector didn't take a 2nd glance.



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Old 09-18-2015, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, it looks like Capital Building Supply may have screwed up my plans for the weekend. They sent me hat channel without the reinforced edge...

Update: they called back...they had sent me 20g instead of 25g. Swapping it out today. So good on them for quick turnaround!

I would definitely recommend them...prices are very comparable to home depot and you don't have to worry about getting it home.

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Old 09-18-2015, 10:47 AM
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Given your choices of where to put the fan, I would put it further from the theater. Rather than a straight shot, let it be a bend away.
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I'm up for that. What do I get from adding the bend?

Also anyone have any suggestions on what to do if the studs are twisted a bit? I am not sure the channel is going to go into the clip if it is mounted on a twisted stud.
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:30 PM
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more attenuation of sound as it dissipates energy going around the bend.

twisted studs, you can either skip that stud or my faovorite, whack it with a hammer until the area you want to attach a clip is close enough. Some other remedies are a slanted shims under the base of the clip and replacing the stud.

A little bit of twist is OK they are never going to be perfect.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Clip and channel is in, along with insulation. Anything else to do / check before putting up drywall?

One question we have is how to handle this narrow spot next to the door. Should we just use two clips 4" apart? (We are removing the trim and installing the clip on the trimmer stud, it just hasn't been removed yet in this pic)



Also one thing to check is make sure your studs aren't touching the channel. We noticed that one stud was so bowed out it was actually touching the channel so we are going to chisel it out.

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Old 09-22-2015, 10:32 PM - Thread Starter
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So, looking at what kind of can to get for my quietboxes. I'm inclined to follow their instructions and get the new work cans, remove the arms, and velcro to the inside of the box. Otherwise it seems that the fit is very tight with remodel housings and you risk the can not fitting if you don't cut the hole in the exact location. Any thoughts?
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Old 09-23-2015, 05:42 AM
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I use remodel cans all the time, you just cut a hole grab the wire and shove the can in the hole.

I Used to do all kinds of crazy measuring and it was tedious, taking two people

Than I discovered a Bosch laser plumb bob, now I mark the floor and once the ceiling is up I can find the exact spots really fast.

I don't think there is anything I hate more than cutting holes in drywall for new work recessed lights, no matter how carefull you measure it just never comes together for me. I'll only use them if a pro crew is hanging the rock. Guys who do it every day. Even they miss about 10% of the time what I consider perfect.
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Old 09-23-2015, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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OK. I guess we will just have to be careful with the remodel cans then. The box is only 12" long inside and the remodel cans are 11" long. Although the pictures look like it's not that long...looks like 8" or so from the photo. I guess I need to to HD and check it out. I've attached a pic of the one I am considering.


We are short on putty pads. Know where we can get some on short notice?
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Old 09-23-2015, 11:19 AM
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check out this 4 inch can and also the 5 inch can shown as "customers also viewed. Utilitech brand at Lowes, can't find the dimensions, I've used a ton ot the 4 inch with the MR16 GU10 halogen bulbs included, I've been throwing away the bulbs recently and replacing with the SunSun LED bulbs (Dimmable) see White Oaks project.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_289424-53058...ductId=1241365

this one looks promising, I've never used. I would use LED bulbs.

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
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Old 09-23-2015, 02:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Cool, thanks. Looks like they also have a 4" light which is a lot more compact than what HD sells:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_127746-53058...d=3150985&pl=1
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Old 09-26-2015, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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We went a bit different on mounting our quiet boxes. We cut a larger hole, sealed the quiet box to the hole and then lifted the whole assembly into the ceiling. Still creates the sound bunker since everything is sealed, but it was very easy to install the box this way and also installing the recessed light is through a single layer instead of through both layers. Also leaves plenty of room to seal the holes where the wires are coming in.





I also followed the suggestion I saw in another thread a few months ago and installed solid wood boards where the projector will be mounted. Should make it much easier to mount!

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Old 09-26-2015, 03:28 PM
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caulk the hole where the wires come in
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Old 09-26-2015, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Ya, we were thinking about using the fireblocking foam as I don't think the acoustical sealant will stay in place.
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Old 09-28-2015, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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So I mentioned earlier that I got an 8" fan. Well it pushes a TON of air. Probably way too much for the room and the air is going to make a lot of noise on the vents. I got a fan controller but the fan hums really loud when I turn the speed down. It's really loud upstairs and you can feel the floor vibrating when you walk. I was thinking I can either (a) run it at full speed and some kind of restriction to lower the air flow or (b) put the fan in a box filled with insulation to absorb any humming and mount the box to the joist with isolation clips. This fan was kind of pricey and I really don't want to buy a smaller one, I don't know what I would do with this one. Any recommendations?
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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If anyone needs a drywall lift or knows someone who needs a drywall lift, I have one in like new condition that I will sell for cheap.
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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The good news: we have drywall up!

The bad news: I forgot to wire in ethernet and cable.

Not worried about ethernet, wifi is plenty fast these days. However, the cable is an issue. Thanks to the dual layers of drywall and GG, taking down the drywall to put the cable in is not really an option. I have a plan of how I can make a cable run from the closet over to the a/v rack, but it involves installing crown molding to hide the cable run. If anyone has any other suggestion I would love to hear them.
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Old 11-18-2015, 10:55 AM
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If you have clips and channel you have an inch gap behind the drywall to snake wires.
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Old 11-19-2015, 08:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmm, the question is how to get the wires around the corner, I think we only left a 1/4" gap at the corners. Perhaps cut a small square out at the corner and then put it back?

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Old 01-03-2016, 03:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm finishing up the flex duct and I need some rigid fiberglass for the plenum silencer. Anyone know where I can buy locally?

Some pics of the progress

This is the fan mounted in the closet. This mount has to change because too much noise is transmitted upstairs through the joists.



This is the duct running across the room. The airflow is pretty quiet coming out the end, even on full power. I am going to line the end of the soffit with rigid fiberglass to create the plenum.

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Old 01-03-2016, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Also, looking for someone to mud & tape the drywall. Anyone got a referral or some tips on finding someone to do it?

Need someone to hang the doors too...
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