Touzinsky Home Theater - A homage to Mat1220's Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 05-27-2012, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Before I go any further I want to give major props to Mat1220. His build totally made me think I can do this. He used good materials and had some great ideas. I have seen some other builds and will use bits and pieces from theirs, but Mat1220's is my model. Thanks for your hard work and great documentation. I hope to do the same!

Ok, here is the equipment I plan to use. I would like opinions on this, but I am sticking with polk audio. I am building a 7.1 theater. I will mostly watch movies, then tv (mostly football, baseball, hocky, and then other stuff. My other hobby is computers so I play too many FPS'ers

Denon - 3808ci (currently own)
Oppo - 93 BluRay Player (currently own)
Polk CSiA6 - Center (currently own)
Polk RT600i - Fronts (currently own)
Polk Rti-A7 - Fronts (future)
Polk 265-RT's - Surround and Rear Surround
HSU - VTF3-MK4 or VTF2-MK4 sub (I would appreciate comments on this)
Benq - W7000 (I would appreciate comments on this)
Acusticpro1080 - Elite R120WH1 A1080 Projector Screen (needs to be acousitcally transparent. (I would appreciate comments on this)

Here is my plan and profile view.


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post #2 of 16 Old 05-27-2012, 07:25 PM
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Thanks for the compliments Chip! Your making me blush!

My best advise, and the same advise I've read time and time again by the great theater builders on this site is: plan plan plan. Your off to a good start with your drawings!

Also, stay organised. I found that I got the best results when I knew exactly what I was going to be doing next. Don't jump around from one thing to the other. Finish what you start.

Clean up at the end of every day. It helps you stay motivated and focused. There is nothing worse then going down to your room and having to spend 45 minutes just cleaning up before you can even start. It's a killer.

Keep your tools and building materials organised. You wouldn't beleive how much time can be wasted looking for that tape measure or that drill bit!

Make lists! I have so many lists! Write it down... you WILL forget something.

Keep your mind focused on the end result! Try to see the finished room in your head. That's what I did and it worked!

But don't forget to have a life outside of your theater! Sometimes I was either working, sleeping or building. Don't neglect your family! You need someone to watch movies with you when your done!

Good luck!
Matt
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-03-2012, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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all - the following are two photos that show the virgin basement! One item I just noticed was the I-beam in the following picture. I will have to frame out around it. I really thought this beam ran a different direction. Oh well, we will do as best we can with the space we have...I would love to have your thoughts on how to take care of this. The stud wall will be the back wall and the false wall will sit 2' in front of the concrete foundation bump out.



If you look at the end of the tape measure that wil be the back wall. It will be 19.5' away from the false wall + screen.



Also. I am looking for your opinions on my rough floor plan. Does anyone see any fatal flaws? Thank you.

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post #4 of 16 Old 06-03-2012, 04:44 PM
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Looks like you're off to a good start.

A couple of questions:
-how many people do you want to seat?
-what is the ceiling height? edit: I see 7'-10". Is that to the joists or the beam?

If I'm reading correctly, you are showing 19'-6" to the projector from the screen? But the back wall is 18'-5" from the screen?

Are you going all the way from outside wall to outside wall, or is there space between the back wall of the theater and the foundation wall?

At 19'-6" I think you're going to be happiest with 2 rows of seating. Are you planning a bar at the rear (looks like something rectangular back there)? I don't see a depth for the riser, but I don't think it's going to be deep enough; it will depend on what seats you want. Remember you don't want them tight against the back wall if you can avoid it.

Also, the predominant recommendation nowadays is pink fluffy insulation rather than roxul.

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post #5 of 16 Old 06-04-2012, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

A couple of questions:
-how many people do you want to seat?
-what is the ceiling height? edit: I see 7'-10". Is that to the joists or the beam?

If I'm reading correctly, you are showing 19'-6" to the projector from the screen? But the back wall is 18'-5" from the screen?

Are you going all the way from outside wall to outside wall, or is there space between the back wall of the theater and the foundation wall?

Mr. Tim,

Thanks for the reply. I am looking ot seat 6 (two rows of three, those are the boxes you see), but 99% of the time it will be a max of 4 and more likely only 2 (wife and me) or even 1, me.

I am planning on 7' 10" but I am hoping for 8' I read that it was a full 8' pour which would give us like 8' 2". the beam is in the way and it is an 8" beam (depth) I believe, So it could project 6" into the space. I am going to soffit around it. I just need to figure out if it will interfere with the projection (from the projector)

If I have my terms correct the back wall is 2' behind the false wall. The front of the screen would be 2' 3" to the back wall. The projector is 19' 6" in front of the false wall. I am going all the way to the back wall. On the other end where the projector is there is going to be like 10' to the foundation wall. One side wall will be on the foundation, the other will be not. I have revised hte plan some more and need to upload it. I will try to do that tonight.

Thank you for all your help.

Chip

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post #6 of 16 Old 06-06-2012, 07:29 AM
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Great start, Chip. It's hard to read everything on your plan, but I think I get the basic idea.

1. Are you planning on reclining theater seats or traditional theater seats? Based on the 4' between rows, I'm guessing traditional seats that don't recline. Is that correct?
2. It looks like your seats are further back than they need to be. Think about sliding them forward to give more separation between the back row and your rear surrounds.
3. I'd have to measure my reclining seats, but I'm pretty sure I would not be able to fit them through a 24" wide door, even with the backs removed. You might be able to fit smaller seats through, but I would go with a slightly wider door so you don't run into problems down the road. A 24" door will not have a grand theater entrance feel.
4. If you are limited to a 6" max height on your stage due to screen size, I would eliminate the lower 4" step. The 2" difference is going to be hard to pull off given the fact that the lip on your stage will be in the 1-1/2" range. Of course, you could always go a little taller with your upper stage if you really want the two levels.
5. I didn't see the width of your room anywhere. Appears to be between 12' and 14' based on your front row dimension. This would be wide enough for a 2.35:1 screen. Is there a reason you decided on 16:9? You could also save some money if you buy the AT fabric and build your own screen frame (or buy your own frame). One popular economical solution is to buy the SeymourAV AT fabric and pair it with a DIY or Jamestown frame.
6. What are your plans for hiding the electrical panel? Looks like that will be in the middle of your right wall.
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-06-2012, 07:49 AM
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That looks like a nice basement minus those beams. That's a bit of a bummer. What does the rest of the basement look like? I'm just wondering if there might not be a better spot to locate the theater.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-07-2012, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Great start, Chip. It's hard to read everything on your plan, but I think I get the basic idea.
1. Are you planning on reclining theater seats or traditional theater seats? Based on the 4' between rows, I'm guessing traditional seats that don't recline. Is that correct?
2. It looks like your seats are further back than they need to be. Think about sliding them forward to give more separation between the back row and your rear surrounds.
3. I'd have to measure my reclining seats, but I'm pretty sure I would not be able to fit them through a 24" wide door, even with the backs removed. You might be able to fit smaller seats through, but I would go with a slightly wider door so you don't run into problems down the road. A 24" door will not have a grand theater entrance feel.
4. If you are limited to a 6" max height on your stage due to screen size, I would eliminate the lower 4" step. The 2" difference is going to be hard to pull off given the fact that the lip on your stage will be in the 1-1/2" range. Of course, you could always go a little taller with your upper stage if you really want the two levels.
5. I didn't see the width of your room anywhere. Appears to be between 12' and 14' based on your front row dimension. This would be wide enough for a 2.35:1 screen. Is there a reason you decided on 16:9? You could also save some money if you buy the AT fabric and build your own screen frame (or buy your own frame). One popular economical solution is to buy the SeymourAV AT fabric and pair it with a DIY or Jamestown frame.
6. What are your plans for hiding the electrical panel? Looks like that will be in the middle of your right wall.

Spaceman - Thanks for the reply. Here are my answers to your questions. I am totally in the state of flux stage. I see ot be changing my mind a million times a day after reading and researching everyone else's threads

1. - I am still thinking traditional theater seats. I just really like that idea since I really always wanted a home theater. I am thinking now about only having one row (four seats) and then removing the back riser and adding in a bar with bar highback stools/seats.

2. - I have slid the front row to 13' now that adds another foot and makes the back seating area bigger. So if I stay two rows with a riser my seating areas are 13' and 18' away from the false wall.

3. - I have redesigned the "finished basement side wall" to add in a 36" door. Gonna be a heavy SOB to get in there, but I, like you, think that bigger more grand door would be better.

4. - I can definately go bigger, maybe I will go 2x10 construction on the front stage that way the 2x4 first step would look nicer.

5. - The room with one layer of drywall is right about 13' wide. Now that I am going to decouple the walls with clips and hat channel and go with 3 layers of 5/8" dd + gg it will be about 12'6" wide or a little more. MAybe I go with 2 x 1/2" drywall + gg. I havent really finalized that decision yet.

6. - I really lucked out. When I layed out the back wall I put 3' x 3' chamfered corners in to get around the heating/cooling and the floor drain and the mirror of it just happened to work out perfectly to keep the panel open! I totally lucked out for I did not know that panel was there!

Please keep the questions coming! Thanks.

Chip

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post #9 of 16 Old 06-07-2012, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

That looks like a nice basement minus those beams. That's a bit of a bummer. What does the rest of the basement look like? I'm just wondering if there might not be a better spot to locate the theater.

The rest of the basement if real open. The only problem is that the rest of the basement will be finished for an office and another family room that will have another HT area. That room will have a lesser quality setup with a 55" LED and most of my old speakers. I really expect that we will spend 90% of our time downstairs and the stairs will be for sleeping + eating and maybe minor tv use. The basement will be the place to be. I will upload some more pics and add to this response.

Here is a picture of the rest of the main portion of the basement.
400

Chip

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post #10 of 16 Old 06-08-2012, 07:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiptouz View Post


Would it be possible to locate the theater in that far back corner of the basement? I see a pole there, but can't tell exactly where it is in relation to that space. It looks like you could put the equipment rack under the stairs, and you would also have a better potential for sound isolation back there.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #11 of 16 Old 06-08-2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiptouz View Post

6. - I really lucked out. When I layed out the back wall I put 3' x 3' chamfered corners in to get around the heating/cooling and the floor drain and the mirror of it just happened to work out perfectly to keep the panel open! I totally lucked out for I did not know that panel was there!

So the panel falls behind that chamfered corner? It's hard to tell from the angle of the photo. If that is the case, make sure you are still providing the necessary clearance around the panel and that it's not stuffed into the corner of that angle. I came across this criteria, but don't know if it's accurate. Mr. Tim could verify.

Minimum clearance required around electrical panel
-left to right the minimum clearance is 30" or the width of the equipment, whichever is larger
-in height, there should be 6' 6'' minimum height to stand in front of the equipment (exception for dwelling units for panels 200 amps or less)
-the depth in front of the equipment varies depending on the voltage and surfaces of the opposite wall behind you: if the voltage is 150 volts to ground or less the depth of clearance is 30": as stated above; if the voltage is higher it depends of whether the opposite wall is insulated or not: if insulated the depth is 3' 6", if not insulated (such as cement block) the depth is 48"
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My electrical inspector said that if you can't put a built-in fridge in front of your panel, you don't have enough room. He was a bit of an odd guy, but it does give you a visual.

-




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post #13 of 16 Old 06-08-2012, 11:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

So the panel falls behind that chamfered corner? It's hard to tell from the angle of the photo. If that is the case, make sure you are still providing the necessary clearance around the panel and that it's not stuffed into the corner of that angle. I came across this criteria, but don't know if it's accurate. Mr. Tim could verify.
Minimum clearance required around electrical panel
-left to right the minimum clearance is 30" or the width of the equipment, whichever is larger
-in height, there should be 6' 6'' minimum height to stand in front of the equipment (exception for dwelling units for panels 200 amps or less)
-the depth in front of the equipment varies depending on the voltage and surfaces of the opposite wall behind you: if the voltage is 150 volts to ground or less the depth of clearance is 30": as stated above; if the voltage is higher it depends of whether the opposite wall is insulated or not: if insulated the depth is 3' 6", if not insulated (such as cement block) the depth is 48"

Spaceman,

Great insight. I am going to have to really take a look at that. That might have me do another revision. I am sure I have room in front of the panel but I am not sure how much. I am guessing maybe 2' max? Might not be enough....Too bad panels can't be moved that cheaply lol.

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post #14 of 16 Old 06-08-2012, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

Would it be possible to locate the theater in that far back corner of the basement? I see a pole there, but can't tell exactly where it is in relation to that space. It looks like you could put the equipment rack under the stairs, and you would also have a better potential for sound isolation back there.

You know....Maybe. That side is under the girls bedrooms. I lose alot of ceiling space over there. That was all slated to be for storage. One thing I could do is maybe reverse the theater and put the screen side and false wall on that end and the projector on the other. I could put the electrical panel behind the false wall. and try to isolate it somehow...I will think about it some more....That is what is so great about having this awesome forum - you guys have the best ideas.

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post #15 of 16 Old 06-14-2012, 06:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Well my dream of a hometheater in a new house has just come to an end. We decided to not relocate and that mean no new house or theater. So now I will buy my Rti-a9's and a HSU vtf3-mk4 sub and enjoy what I have. The wifey says I can have a home theater in the basement in our current house (a 2622 sq ft two story). The basement here is kind of small and I just dont see it hapening. Maybe I should just buy a new house here...

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post #16 of 16 Old 08-23-2013, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Well,

You see how I stated that the wife said I could have a home theater in the current house? Well after some much deliberation I think I can make an awesome theater work here. It will take a little H&C work and having an electrician install an 100amp panel in the basement, but I think I can make it work. I have a preliminary design setup in sketchup so more info coming soon. In otherwords:

I'm Back Baby!!!

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