Swizzle Stick Theater - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 74 Old 10-05-2012, 09:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I got sidetracked working on our Lutron whole-house lighting control system (which also controls the home theater). Bought a used ($4K if new) processor on eBay for $599, to replace our 11-year-old processor which was only controllable via RS-232. The one bought used off eBay includes an Ethernet TCP/IP networking interface, which now lets me reconfigure everything via WiFi from my laptop, as well as lets family members control all lighting remotely via Lutron apps running on iPhones and iPads.

Also had to upgrade Lutron software on the laptop from older Homeworks Interactive to newer Homeworks Illuminations, while preserving all the programming and configurations.

Unfortunately found out that 4 of the the circuits (controlling about a dozen lights) on the D48 board of the Lutron processor bought off eBay don't work, so some of the VAREO switches in the house are no longer remotely controllable by the processor. Am currently trying to determine if I can substitute the D48 board from our original older processor for the malfunctioning D48 board in the newer processor.

So the bottom line is that I hope to get back to finishing the theater as soon as I fix the whole-house lighting system.
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post #62 of 74 Old 03-04-2013, 07:43 AM
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A bit after the last post, but wondering how you obtained the nailor grilles...wentto their website but didn't see any online ordering tool, do you email and they sell direct, or is there a chain store that carries them. Re-doing my room and want to turn a floor return into two Nailor grilles in a soffit for returns...my room really heats up from the PJ and a floor return. Thanks in advance
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post #63 of 74 Old 03-04-2013, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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You have to buy Nailor grilles from one of their "local" distributors/representatives. I purchased mine from an HVAC supplier, Metropolitan Equipment Group in Greenbelt, MD, since northern VA is located within their territory. I just called them up on the phone, told them what I wanted from the catalog, and provided a credit card number. The grilles were direct shipped to my home.

You can look up the distributor for your location/territory by going to www.nailor.com and clicking on "REP LOCATOR."
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post #64 of 74 Old 03-04-2013, 10:11 AM
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thanks!
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post #65 of 74 Old 03-04-2013, 12:47 PM
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I recently found an alternative on line source for linear grills in made to order custom sizes, Haven't tried them yet but I have purchased other items from the site without issue.

http://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Grilles-Registers/Bar-Linear-Grilles/Dayus-Bar-Linear-Grilles
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post #66 of 74 Old 03-04-2013, 02:17 PM
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What a great site! They have lots of things I could use (dryer vent booster fans, crawl space fans, etc. Linear grilles look good!
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post #67 of 74 Old 03-18-2013, 06:43 PM
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Fantastic theater! Very refreshing to see fabric used with a pattern. I feel for Big though having had to keep the pattern straight when wrapping the fabric. Sounds maddening!eek.gif

My favorite thing about your theater is the riser height and how the front seats are recessed between the stairs. Great job!!

JBL Pro Cinema
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post #68 of 74 Old 06-12-2014, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uberanalyst View Post
Here's a another element of the theater that's different from what I've seen on the forum.

5 years ago after I had hired a contractor to build the basic theater, including columns, riser, soffit, etc., I then had to figure out how to hang my SMX acoustically-transparent screen.

Since I had few woodworking tools (or skills -- I'm an EE/computer science grad), and I didn't trust a screenwall constructed of 2x4s to stay straight over time, I decided to order and construct a screen wall built of T-slot aluminum extrusions (http://www.automation4less.com/tslots1.htm).

I figured out exactly which pieces were needed (in which lengths), and ordered them to size. After they arrived it was like building with a giant erector set, bolting everything together. The resulting frame is complete overkill from a structural perspective, but it worked very nicely -- the Z-clip that came with my SMX screen bolted perfectly into slots of one of the upper cross-beams, making it easy to hang and remove the screen. (Pardon the curves in the photos caused by the wide-angle lens; the aluminum beams are perfectly straight



Does your Screen Material attach to a Screen Frame, and the Screen Frame to this Aluminum Screen wall...

OR are you attaching Screen Fabric directly to the Aluminum screen wall and the screen wall also serves as the frame?

Thanks,

Kevin
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post #69 of 74 Old 06-12-2014, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmhvball View Post
Does your Screen Material attach to a Screen Frame, and the Screen Frame to this Aluminum Screen wall...

OR are you attaching Screen Fabric directly to the Aluminum screen wall and the screen wall also serves as the frame?

Thanks,

Kevin
The screen material attaches to (i.e., stretched across) a screen frame (SMX screen product, now out of business), and the screen frame attaches to the aluminum screen wall hanging from a z-clip across the top of the opening.
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post #70 of 74 Old 10-01-2014, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Just received my post-CEDIA special DLA-RS4910 projector from AVS, as a replacement for my DLA-RS1 projector that's been hanging in my dedicated home theater for many years. I've been so satisfied with the RS1 performance (especially after adding a Darblet) that I haven't been compelled to upgrade for many years. Despite the coming of 4K, I finally succumbed to purchasing a new JVC projector, mostly to see if a dynamic iris and 3D would make much difference.

Our dedicated home theater has 100% light control, dark fabric-covered walls, and black velvet surrounding the screen wall -- so it's easy to appreciate the black levels of JVC projectors on my acoustically-transparent zero-gain SMX woven screen.

The bottom line: the RS4910 provides a better picture than the RS1, but it's not a huge difference unless you know what differences to look for. In fact, I imagine most people wouldn't notice that I swapped projectors. Maybe I just had a really good RS1 unit.

The e-shift 4K feature seems to be of minimal value. I can easily see when it's turned ON or OFF by looking at the thickness of projector menu text while sitting 11 feet away from a 9.5 foot wide 132" diagonal 16x9 screen (or test patterns when standing up close to the screen). However I can't see any difference when watching a movie or video.

The RS4910 fan is just as noisy when the bulb is on HIGH as the RS1. (I like to run it on HIGH because of the size of the screen.)

I do like the 1/16 pixel convergence controls of the RS4910 that allow perfect convergence edge-edge of the image. However, the RS1 convergence wasn't exactly bad.

The RS4910 does provide inky blacks with the dynamic iris, but the RS1 already provided deeper blacks than most movie theaters.

So all this might make you believe that I wasted the money on a projector upgrade, right?

Wrong. The 3D of the RS4910 is awesome!

I followed the advice of this forum and bought 6 pairs (since my theater has 6 seats) of the "Xpand EX105BT Active 3D Shutter Glasses and Bluetooth Emitter for Mitsubishi Televisions" for only $18.99 each on Amazon. With my non-polarized mesh screen the 3D effect is fabulous with no ghosting (Crosstalk setting = 0). I have to look really hard on animated movies with solid colors to see any ghosting whatsoever.

I've been buying the 3D versions of Blu-Ray movies (including IMAX movies) for the last few years in expectation of eventually getting a 3D projector, and now I'm finally getting to watch them in their 3D glory.
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post #71 of 74 Old 10-01-2014, 04:03 PM
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Upgrade fever! Interesting comments about the Eshift. I've seen it in action at Landshark1's place and thought it made a noticeable difference in pixel density. He has a non AT screen.

Sounds like a winner for your 3D content.
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post #72 of 74 Old 10-24-2014, 01:37 PM
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Noob questions of the year:
1. How are you attaching GOM fabric to the wall
2. Is it directly attached to the drywall, I seen a foam looking board within on of you pics
3. What's the best place online to purchase GOM ?
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post #73 of 74 Old 10-24-2014, 03:39 PM
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fabric is attached to one inch thick wood furring strips which were glued and screwed or just screwed to the wall. There are secrets as to how you do this without revealing the staples, The top furring is screwed up after the the fabric is attached, the side staples are hidden by inserting the box columns and the bottom is hidden with baseboard molding. There is an acoustical plan for the room that involved placing absorption materials in certain locations of the room. That is why the furring is one inch, in other theaters it may be more depending on the designer and materials used.

Fabricmate.com for the GOM, order free samples from the Guilford of Maine website.
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post #74 of 74 Old 11-12-2014, 08:33 AM - Thread Starter
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One new observation that may be useful for theater builders who want to watch 3D movies:

I discovered that the white LED-based step lights on each side of the theater flicker excessively when viewed through 3D shutter glasses. The small amount of light coming from these lights (seen in your peripheral vision) is sufficiently distracting that I have to turn off these lights whenever we put on the 3D glasses to watch 3D movies.

In contrast, the rope lighting mounted above the soffits to light up the ceiling perimeter -- based on old-fashioned incandescent bulbs embedded in the rope -- doesn't ever flicker when viewed through 3D glasses, even when dimmed via the Lutron dimming system.

So unless you want to go with a passive 3D projection system (typically requiring 2 projectors and a polarized screen), the use of active 3D shutter glasses may be incompatible with LED lighting.

Last edited by uberanalyst; 11-12-2014 at 08:37 AM.
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