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-   -   sound proofing (http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-dedicated-theater-design-construction/1413346-sound-proofing.html)

Bear7616 06-01-2012 03:16 PM

I have a 400 square foot garage that I'm converting into theatre room. It already has existing walls with insulation. I really don't want to build a room within a room. So I guess what I'm asking is, is there another way to sound proof it with out building another room inside the room? I have looked at quiet rock and green glue but there are so many mixed opinions and not sure what to do. I don't want to spend a lot of money on the room. I am on a budget though I don't want to spend over a grand on it if possible.

HopefulFred 06-01-2012 03:44 PM

The general opinion around here is that the data on Quiet Rock is a little sketchy - whereas the data on Green Glue is better-validated.

What kind of environment is the garage in - is it detached? under the second-floor nursery?
What do you hope to accomplish - just keep the neighbors from calling the cops? are you trying to isolate 3000W of infinite baffle subs?

I figure with that sort of sound isolation budget, an extra layer of drywall and some green glue is your best bet, but I'm sure there are other opinions. Does that budget include closing off the overhead door?

Bear7616 06-01-2012 09:16 PM

Its a detached garage and it doesn't have garage doors its Hardy all the way around outside. But green glue it has better reviews when you put clips in then double sheet rock with 5/8 with three tubes of glue. I already have 1/2 sheet rock.

jautor 06-01-2012 09:32 PM

The most economic solution would be to add a layer of 5/8" sheetrock with GG on top of the existing 1/2" sheets on all walls and the ceiling. But you'd need to fully explain the rest of the construction to an expert (Ted) first...

If there's no garage door on this "outbuilding", are there windows? What's the HVAC situation (and put your location in your profile, local help is good...)?

Jeff

aaustin 06-01-2012 11:18 PM

Don't forget about any penetrations in your "soundproof shell" as well. This includes all recessed lights, outlets, switches, etc. If you don't seal them all up then sound will "flank" out of the room. Generally it can be rather difficult to deal with these things when you already have a layer of drywall up. You can't easily get to the back of an electrical box to seal it with a putty pad, for instance.

I know that you are on a tight budget, but if you really want to do it right then I would remove the existing drywall and install an isolation clip and channel system ,such as whisperclips, to the walls and ceiling . Then attach two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between the layers. Build backer boxes for all of your lights and seal the outlets with putty pads. Do some kind of dead vent or soffit muffler to isolate your HVAC and lastly add a heavy solid core door with seals.

This would give you the best sound isolation performance. Now whether you want to undertake that is completely up to you, but I thought I'd throw it out there so that you know the ideal course of action.

Check out http://www.soundproofingcompany.com for a ton of great information.


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