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post #451 of 597 Old 09-23-2012, 06:41 PM
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I just got lucky with a few pieces of burl in the pile so I used them in the corners. All my trim pieces are single piece, all made on my routing table. The horizontal trim (and most of the rest of the trim in the theater) is based on a full round Beading bit. I made a jig so I could run the stock through on edge inserting a half bead along each edge of the front face. On the soffits I finished the bead and then made a second half round next to it. Typically I don't have a plan, I just fiddle with a couple of bits until I get an effect I like. There are tons of pics in build build thread.

So are you milling your own trees?

My "Old Vic" Theater Build
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post #452 of 597 Old 09-23-2012, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I do a little of everything. I buy dried walnut, green boards, and I have logs. My family has been going to an Amish saw mill around here for years. Its dirt cheap and the people are just great to deal with. I sticker it for a few months and have it kiln dried from another local fellow. The green boards I get for 1.00 a b/ft. Drying costs .40 per b/ft.

Currently I dont have any logs so i am buying dried, which is also really cheap. I am getting my crown and back band milled for me. i am going to run the chair and base through my router table. I was about to buy a planer/moulder but a friend talked me out of it. Tim I owe you a beer or 10.

I have been through your build a few times. Top notch work. I dont remember everything as I have been through so many threads, but I'll go back through. I was really impressed by your masking solution.

As soon as I can get back into the shop I am going to start on the finish work. I have just plain stolen a few designs from the forums. Going for a traditional look, lots of wood work.

This is the ceiling I will build and the coffered plan



And I am doing this exact design on my soffits, a little different columns however. Planning is just about finished.
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post #453 of 597 Old 09-24-2012, 10:03 PM
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I like the design direction. Looking forward to watching the process... it's going to be a classy room

My "Old Vic" Theater Build
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post #454 of 597 Old 09-26-2012, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

It will probably serve the same duty for me as well. Although I only have a jobsite tablesaw at home. I have to head over to my dad's shop to use a more well equipped saw, so will probably get some steady use out of it. I know how great this is for sheet goods. However, I know that most folks would use a table saw for ripping a more narrow plank of wood, but could the plunge saw be used. Like i said I dont get precise cuts on my table saw, so would want something on site to rip for example a 4/4 10" x 12' piece of hardwood.

Sorry for dredging up an older post but I missed this when it was new.

I have the Festool guided saw system and like it a lot. I use it mostly for breaking down sheet goods. With heavy sheets of plywood or MDF I just feel safer moving the saw over the wood, rather than trying to wrestle the wood through the table saw.

For cutting up sheet goods, it can be as accurate as a table saw if you're patient and careful with your setup. Don't underestimate the amount of time it takes to get that kind of accuracy, though.

It can be used on solid wood, too. I have used it to straight-line rip a long workpiece, instead of making many passes on the jointer. With solid wood, the limiting factor is usually the width of the stock. Your workpiece really needs to be about the same width as the track, and the track is 6" or 7" wide. I have used it on stock down to about 5" in width. I started to set up for a rip cut on some 4" wide stock once and decided it was just too scarey.

The Festool saw comes with a 50"-ish track. I also have a 100"-ish track. Since I have the long track, I have never tried to fasten two short ones together.

Dust collection on the Festool is excellent if you hook the saw up to a shop vac. Of course, Festool's price for the vac hose is rather high ...

I haven't used any of the other track saws. When I bought mine, Festool was the only one sold in the USA.

Hope there's something useful here. I'm enjoying your build!

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post #455 of 597 Old 09-26-2012, 01:02 PM
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So I see what looks like GOM samples in some of the pictures.

Have you guys ordered any GOM by the yard yet? If so - have you found a good source to order from?
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post #456 of 597 Old 09-26-2012, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Moggie

Just trying to keep up with the rest of you guys
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post #457 of 597 Old 09-26-2012, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

Sorry for dredging up an older post but I missed this when it was new.
I have the Festool guided saw system and like it a lot. I use it mostly for breaking down sheet goods. With heavy sheets of plywood or MDF I just feel safer moving the saw over the wood, rather than trying to wrestle the wood through the table saw.
For cutting up sheet goods, it can be as accurate as a table saw if you're patient and careful with your setup. Don't underestimate the amount of time it takes to get that kind of accuracy, though.
It can be used on solid wood, too. I have used it to straight-line rip a long workpiece, instead of making many passes on the jointer. With solid wood, the limiting factor is usually the width of the stock. Your workpiece really needs to be about the same width as the track, and the track is 6" or 7" wide. I have used it on stock down to about 5" in width. I started to set up for a rip cut on some 4" wide stock once and decided it was just too scarey.
The Festool saw comes with a 50"-ish track. I also have a 100"-ish track. Since I have the long track, I have never tried to fasten two short ones together.
Dust collection on the Festool is excellent if you hook the saw up to a shop vac. Of course, Festool's price for the vac hose is rather high ...
I haven't used any of the other track saws. When I bought mine, Festool was the only one sold in the USA.
Hope there's something useful here. I'm enjoying your build!

I was very close to scooping up the Festool, but in the end I just couldnt spend that much. Having said that, there are very few if any outfits that can keep up with Festool powertools, but you pay for, thats for sure.

Great to hear about the regular stock. I would probably feel better using the track saw versus the jobsite table saw
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post #458 of 597 Old 09-26-2012, 04:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyk36 View Post

So I see what looks like GOM samples in some of the pictures.
Have you guys ordered any GOM by the yard yet? If so - have you found a good source to order from?

I have not ordered anything other than samples right now, but when I do order I am going to go through Bryan Pape - GIK acoustics. He is a knowledgeable and great guy to work with. And his prices are good.
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post #459 of 597 Old 09-27-2012, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a new toy in the mail today


B3853645-BFBC-45D2-B252-C4B1E0EB8C64-5785-000004D1ADE2A730.jpg[IMG]
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post #460 of 597 Old 09-28-2012, 03:32 AM
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you tease, you're not showing the model...........
I received mine Wednesday, got amp #11, which has to come with some sort of kewl Spinal Tap karma, doesn't it?

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post #461 of 597 Old 09-28-2012, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weaselfest View Post

you tease, you're not showing the model...........
I received mine Wednesday, got amp #11, which has to come with some sort of kewl Spinal Tap karma, doesn't it?

lol....I wanted to get another one and almost did. Just couldnt get it done. It came in perfect condition. Again, thanks for the heads up.
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post #462 of 597 Old 09-28-2012, 07:05 PM
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I see just above that you broke AVS Forum Rule #2 found here: http://www.avsforum.com/t/1413846/kinetic-river-cinema/120#post_22220692

I will also add AVS Forum Rule #3:
"No pictures of equipment may be posted without full product model numbers and your opinion on its visceral impact it will have in your theater." biggrin.gif
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post #463 of 597 Old 09-28-2012, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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per the agreement.......................

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post #464 of 597 Old 09-28-2012, 07:26 PM
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That's Brooklyn Decker! I would know those....uh....eyes anywhere!! biggrin.gif
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post #465 of 597 Old 10-01-2012, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I have not been completely worthless over the last week or two. I have been steadily painting the rest of the basement, and my funds are low due to my spending spree on speakers. I really would like to go ahead and build out the riser and baffle wall in the meanwhile waiting for my shop access to open up. I will in the meantime however start playing around with different types of moldings on my router table.
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post #466 of 597 Old 10-06-2012, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I started playing around with mulding profiles. I am just going to go with a simple base molding profile, like the one below I made out of some scrap oak







The rest of my time was spent putting in some recessed baffles and a ceiling fan



Just sitting in Limbo waiting to start on some finish work. Not exciting updates, but updates nonetheless.
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post #467 of 597 Old 10-06-2012, 10:56 PM
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That is one heck of a router table my friend. There are more that a few wood working junkies around these parts and this is endlessly fascinating stuff for us. Keep it up.

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Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #468 of 597 Old 10-07-2012, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Well that's good to know I will start posting my updates on the moldings that I create and different ideas that I have. Next up will be some experimenting with chair rail
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post #469 of 597 Old 10-12-2012, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok. Not so much woodworking, but I do have some wood updates. I continue on my quest to find the cheapest premium Walnut stock I can find. This usually means going by one of my local Amish Saw Mills on a weekly basis. Well I struck gold on Thursday and Friday. I picked up another 300 board feet.

I had to dig through this
28DBDE43-3BBF-4345-AA05-F64EC49064DB-3188-000001F450890B4C.jpg[IMG]throwing this to the side4E23F6AA-4651-4B85-9B4D-944816F5BA0A-3188-000001F44E01C4FB.jpg[IMG]And took this2656BF90-7B70-4A9D-88E3-785C82A3640E-3188-000001F44B40A1CD.jpg[IMG]And picked up some more on FridayB71C55D5-3C76-4E32-AE3F-B0398A09EC17-3188-000001F431CFC7DF.jpg[IMG]What I did find over the two days was absolutely beautiful Walnut, No Sap wood, and very little, if any knots. And to top it off, all of the boards are 8' to 16' and no less than 8" wide, some being as wide as 18". My best day at the Mill in a long time for sure. Another design I have settled on is the Wainscoting, I am going to do the recessed inset of the wainsoting panels with either a contrasting Bird's eye Maple or Walnut Burl. A few samples......6F41872F-B54C-49B6-9D74-E275EB42ABD3-3188-000001F43789935B.jpg[IMG]7033EE84-6112-4D70-A8BB-40D9774CFB8A-3188-000001F440953341.jpg[IMG]I am going to try and mock up the columns and a scale version of a wainscoting panel. I also got some more router bits for extra wide crown molding (5.5"), chair, and more base profiles. Unfortunately I have to wait about 6 weeks for this last haul of wood to be Kiln dried, another two weeks in the kiln after that. In the mean time I will just play aournd with some design ideas and work on the riser, baffle wall, soffits, and the rest of the basement.
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post #470 of 597 Old 10-12-2012, 02:54 PM
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Dooood - you got wood.

Looks very nice.
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post #471 of 597 Old 10-12-2012, 04:32 PM
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OMG I can't wait to see that sanding and finished......gnarly dude

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post #472 of 597 Old 10-12-2012, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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OMG I can't wait to see that sanding and finished......gnarly dude

Yea, it should turn out great. I definitely need all the help I can get with all the AV parts of the build, the woodworking is my strong suit so I am confident that will really make the room stand out. I'm not sure yet how I am going to finish the Bird's Eye Maple. If anyone out there has some suggestions, I'm all ears. I don't want to stain it, just enhance the grain.
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post #473 of 597 Old 10-16-2012, 05:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I went and picked up some scrap oak I had laying around, stuff that I will probably never use.



Well I guess they had their fair share of exposure to moisture because some of them looked like pretzels. I joined and planed a few that were semi-straight so that I could start messing around with different moldings.



I started off working on some chair rail. I need to build a jig for my fence as I am about 1/8 short with the opening. I brought the bit up as much as I could with out hitting the fence just to get a feel for how the bit would handle. Not happy with the results. I have used a router table for many things but have not done any major trim molding on it. the crown is 3" wide, so it's a pretty big bit. A few things that I thought about before I started.

SPEED and 2 PASSES vs. MULTIPLE PASSES

I have read various articles on speed control of the bit. Even though I have had a variable speed router for some time I really had no need to mess with the RPM's. However I may need to address the issue with these large decorative molding bits. One camp seems to think that you should rout 90% of the material on the first pass at a lower speed, and then a "Finish" pass at a higher speed to rout the remaining 10% of material. The other camp says to find a good speed and make several passes routing a little material, making a fence adjustment and routing some more until you get to your intended final depth. I chose to do the latter today, with not so good results. I think oak is comparable to walnut in hardness so it is a good species to test cut on. I suffered a pretty bad tear out half way through the second pass.





Unfortunately I only planed one test piece to 13/16. the rest are 5/8 and were to be used to build out a wainscoting mock up.

So I moved on to the reversible wainscoting bit and things turned out much better. Some pics.....









The Wainscoting Plan:

I am going with a 6" decorative bead baseboard that will transition into a 2" horizontal stiles and 4" Horizontal Stiles to create the panel recess. Inside the framed recess I will use the above molding to create a gentle profile into the inset. which will be Bird's Eye Maple. I actually want an recessed panel, not a recessed raised panel that is used in cabinets, but just a recess. So it will all be furred out except the inset. I am going for a contrast in wood between the BE Maple and the Walnut. I did pick up some samples of Walnut Burl as a "Plan B". Walnut will be finished with 100% Tung oil, I still have to experiment with the samples of BE Maple and Walnut Burl veneer.

I hope this all makes sense, when I mock up one or two of the panels I will get a lot better idea of what I am trying to achieve.

I really hope to get this chair rail situation figured out, as I want to move right into routing 5" Crown using two large bits. One for the upper profile and one for the lower profile. If anyone has any experience with these types of moldings using a router table please chime in, I'm all ears. If it doesnt give me the result that I am looking for than I might just bite the bullet and buy that JET Planer/Molder I have had my eye on for some time.

Would really like some feedback! THANKS.
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post #474 of 597 Old 10-16-2012, 08:13 PM
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What you using for table saw and router table?

-----------------------------------------------
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Current Theater Build
 

New House Build

 

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post #475 of 597 Old 10-16-2012, 08:38 PM
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I might be wrong, but that looks like a Kregg Router Table to me

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post #476 of 597 Old 10-17-2012, 03:53 AM - Thread Starter
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post #477 of 597 Old 10-18-2012, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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What you using for table saw and router table?

A few answers to this question. I have two shops/sites. At my house I use my Kreg Router table and a Hitachi Jobsite tablesaw. I also use my Dewalt Plunge/Track Saw. But the majority of my work is done in my Father In-laws workshop. I have it made over there. Over 2000 sq. ft shop with finishing room.
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post #478 of 597 Old 10-18-2012, 06:41 PM
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post #479 of 597 Old 10-18-2012, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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lol...I like that sign
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post #480 of 597 Old 10-19-2012, 06:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I started to put together some of my finishing plans. The room will have 6" Baseboard that will transition right into wainscoting panels. The panels will have 3 or 4" stiles, the inset will be either Bird's eye Maple or Walnut Burl. I routed up a few stiles and throw them together with some veneer samples....looking for some feeback. It's not the neatest mock up but like I said I just want to get an idea of what its going to look like.

First up is the BE Maple









Ignore the stiles and not forming a panel. I didnt take the time to cut them to length and the veneer samples are only 11" x 8".

Now the Walnut Burl









BE Maple and Walnut Burl together to compare









Im leaning heavily toward the Bird's Eye Maple but wanted to hear some opinions. Again, the recessed insets of the wainscoting will be where the veneer is. Another reason I like the BE maple is because I am going with a beige or wheat colored GOM fabrick for the walls between the columns

Wainscoting will be very similar to this picture below, with the wide base and multiple profiles between different moldings. Of course the inset will be the veneer and will be recessed. Not just a surface with stiles creating the look of being recessed, but will be lower than the rest of the panel.



Thoughts???
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