I went and picked up some scrap oak I had laying around, stuff that I will probably never use.
Well I guess they had their fair share of exposure to moisture because some of them looked like pretzels. I joined and planed a few that were semi-straight so that I could start messing around with different moldings.
I started off working on some chair rail. I need to build a jig for my fence as I am about 1/8 short with the opening. I brought the bit up as much as I could with out hitting the fence just to get a feel for how the bit would handle. Not happy with the results. I have used a router table for many things but have not done any major trim molding on it. the crown is 3" wide, so it's a pretty big bit. A few things that I thought about before I started.
SPEED and 2 PASSES vs. MULTIPLE PASSES
I have read various articles on speed control of the bit. Even though I have had a variable speed router for some time I really had no need to mess with the RPM's. However I may need to address the issue with these large decorative molding bits. One camp seems to think that you should rout 90% of the material on the first pass at a lower speed, and then a "Finish" pass at a higher speed to rout the remaining 10% of material. The other camp says to find a good speed and make several passes routing a little material, making a fence adjustment and routing some more until you get to your intended final depth. I chose to do the latter today, with not so good results. I think oak is comparable to walnut in hardness so it is a good species to test cut on. I suffered a pretty bad tear out half way through the second pass.
Unfortunately I only planed one test piece to 13/16. the rest are 5/8 and were to be used to build out a wainscoting mock up.
So I moved on to the reversible wainscoting bit and things turned out much better. Some pics.....
The Wainscoting Plan:
I am going with a 6" decorative bead baseboard that will transition into a 2" horizontal stiles and 4" Horizontal Stiles to create the panel recess. Inside the framed recess I will use the above molding to create a gentle profile into the inset. which will be Bird's Eye Maple. I actually want an recessed panel, not a recessed raised panel that is used in cabinets, but just a recess. So it will all be furred out except the inset. I am going for a contrast in wood between the BE Maple and the Walnut. I did pick up some samples of Walnut Burl as a "Plan B". Walnut will be finished with 100% Tung oil, I still have to experiment with the samples of BE Maple and Walnut Burl veneer.
I hope this all makes sense, when I mock up one or two of the panels I will get a lot better idea of what I am trying to achieve.
I really hope to get this chair rail situation figured out, as I want to move right into routing 5" Crown using two large bits. One for the upper profile and one for the lower profile. If anyone has any experience with these types of moldings using a router table please chime in, I'm all ears. If it doesnt give me the result that I am looking for than I might just bite the bullet and buy that JET Planer/Molder I have had my eye on for some time.
Would really like some feedback! THANKS.