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post #181 of 597 Old 07-19-2012, 08:53 AM
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And time to get some darn pictures up. All this reading is giving me a headache. biggrin.gif

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Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #182 of 597 Old 07-19-2012, 11:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, you are right. too much talk not enough illustration. Pics coming really soon
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post #183 of 597 Old 07-20-2012, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Another day of not getting to the HT. I did trench outside the house to run electric from main panel in the garage to the sub-panel.

On another note. I have decided to go with an IB setup in my riser. I have been talking with Bpape who is doing my treatments and I decided I wanted to give this a go. Will still have a sub up front.
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post #184 of 597 Old 07-20-2012, 07:24 PM
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On another note. I have decided to go with an IB setup in my riser. I have been talking with Bpape who is doing my treatments and I decided I wanted to give this a go. Will still have a sub up front.

That is going to be crazy. I'm loving it. Cannot wait to see some details on that.

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post #185 of 597 Old 07-21-2012, 04:28 PM - Thread Starter
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A productive weekend so far. Got my trench dug for the conduit connecting the main panel in the garage to the sub-panel in the basement


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post #186 of 597 Old 07-21-2012, 05:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Now to the speaker backer boxes. Using IB3 clips to decouple the boxes from the framing cavity in the wall


Due to the weight of these boxes, which are well over 45lbs., I decided to use 3 clips for both the top and bottom and one clip each for the sides to stabilize.

First I measured the top side of the box + 3/4" on each side of the 2x6. The 3/4" on each side will provide enough of a gap so that the side IB3 clips will fit.


I decided to go with one clip on the back, and one each on the sides of the 2x6. To create more stability I attached the side clips a little to the front to form a type of triangle pattern.

I marked out the exact locations of the clips


Then attached the clips in a triangle pattern


Fastened the 2x6 to the top of the backer box



Again, there was a 3/4" gap on each side of the box so that the side clips could be attached. The 3/4" gap was just enough to fit the IB3 red gasket into. In this picture you can see all 4 sides are attached. The sides have one clip. The top and bottom have three clips, the one visible on the back and one each on the sides.


For position of the side surrounds I want the front row to be the money seats so I placed the boxes about 5 degrees back from the listeners head position of each side wall. I have the center of the backer box right at 6.5'. To ensure all boxes are exactly the same height all around the room I used my laser level



From this picture you can see that all sides are completely decoupled from the 2x6 framing


And the finished box


The rational behind the depth of the box is this; Each box is 7" deep. I have a 2" gap from the rigid foam to the 2x wall. So that 2" + 3.5" (2x4) = 5.5". That leaves 1.5". Clips, channel, and DD is 1 5/8", That gives me within 1/8" of the finished wall. That small seam will be sealed with acoustic caulk. Acoustic treatments will be 2", so this will give me 2" from the speaker to the GOM fabric. Right where I want to be. The boxes are very stable in the wall. I will most likely fill some of the box with Polly-fill. In previous posts I went into the design of the boxes. The front cover will be a custom template for each speaker to fit into. Each Triad will fit into the 1/2" MDF front. That 1/2" cover will sit flush. If I want to change speakers out in the future I will just rip another 1/2" MDF cover front template
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post #187 of 597 Old 07-22-2012, 08:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Speaker backer boxes are done. I am very pleased with how everything turned out, but am glad this step in the build is done. Was definitely a pain.







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post #188 of 597 Old 07-23-2012, 05:54 AM
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Really nice progress and work! I am glad that back box design will suit your needs.
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post #189 of 597 Old 07-23-2012, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Tim. HVAC guy is due in today at 2. I have your questions and added a bit more. Would like to make this as painless as possible. I am seriously conidering other options than the dead vents. Just need to make sure that I can thoroughly suppress the noise level.
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post #190 of 597 Old 07-23-2012, 12:59 PM - Thread Starter
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HVAC guy just left. I did get some answers and still have some deciding to do. First off he wasnt trying to sell me on any of their products/services so we got off on a good foot. He was also intrigued by the HT build in general. He said that he had designed systems for HT's a bunch but none with this level of soundproofing and customization. Guess he doesnt read AVS.

My first question was on sizing my diffusors for the supplies. Didnt happen today as I still have to make some runs with the ducts and a reading today wouldnt be the same as when the runs are complete. However sizing will be very simple when I am ready. I will get a reading of CFM at the opening and find a diffusor rated at 250 FPM for the CFM I am getting.

Next he seems to have no issues with using the dead vents to exhaust into the next room. It is venting to another conditioned space that is ultimately part of the same zone. This he said is no different than chiller vents they do in new construction. I reminded him of the fact that being an airtight space might have an impact, he didnt think that it would be enough to be a problem.

I added the idea of adding a thermostat for the HT and a remote temp sensor. He said that would be fine and a good option. He did warn however that when controlling the temp in the HT than the remaining rooms in the zone will be effected as well. The HT which is below grade will have very different amount of heat loss than the upper floor on the same zone so calling for cool or hot air in the HT may negatively effect the other rooms on the zone.

I asked him what he thought of the options I laid out and he thought everything would be fine and mentioned if I wanted to make any wholesale changes then the best bet would be a mini-split which would come in around 4k.

He also did caution making numerous 90* turns in the ducts as each one amounts to the same resistance as a 30ft run of duct. He said if you have the room to make 2 45* turns then that would be a bit better as a 45* turn is actually less resistance than half of making a 90* turn.

All things being considered I think it went fairly well, but i am going to have another specialist come in and see what he has to say.

Tim- Very interested in hearing your thoughts on his opinions as you also know what you are talking about, especially the relation to a "real" HT.
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post #191 of 597 Old 07-23-2012, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

HVAC guy just left. I did get some answers and still have some deciding to do. First off he wasnt trying to sell me on any of their products/services so we got off on a good foot. He was also intrigued by the HT build in general. He said that he had designed systems for HT's a bunch but none with this level of soundproofing and customization. Guess he doesnt read AVS.
My first question was on sizing my diffusors for the supplies. Didnt happen today as I still have to make some runs with the ducts and a reading today wouldnt be the same as when the runs are complete. However sizing will be very simple when I am ready. I will get a reading of CFM at the opening and find a diffusor rated at 250 FPM for the CFM I am getting.
Next he seems to have no issues with using the dead vents to exhaust into the next room. It is venting to another conditioned space that is ultimately part of the same zone. This he said is no different than chiller vents they do in new construction. I reminded him of the fact that being an airtight space might have an impact, he didnt think that it would be enough to be a problem.
I added the idea of adding a thermostat for the HT and a remote temp sensor. He said that would be fine and a good option. He did warn however that when controlling the temp in the HT than the remaining rooms in the zone will be effected as well. The HT which is below grade will have very different amount of heat loss than the upper floor on the same zone so calling for cool or hot air in the HT may negatively effect the other rooms on the zone.
I asked him what he thought of the options I laid out and he thought everything would be fine and mentioned if I wanted to make any wholesale changes then the best bet would be a mini-split which would come in around 4k.
He also did caution making numerous 90* turns in the ducts as each one amounts to the same resistance as a 30ft run of duct. He said if you have the room to make 2 45* turns then that would be a bit better as a 45* turn is actually less resistance than half of making a 90* turn.
All things being considered I think it went fairly well, but i am going to have another specialist come in and see what he has to say.
Tim- Very interested in hearing your thoughts on his opinions as you also know what you are talking about, especially the relation to a "real" HT.

I think it would be best to address my opinions on the above with a few bullet points:
  • He is correct that the sizing of the diffusors is the very last thing to be considered. Doing a thermal load calculation is the first step - did he say how many BTUs of cooling were required for the theater? Only once this is done would be be able to tell you the size and number of ducts running to the theater zone.
  • I have seen many new construction homes where there are essentially holes in the walls to each room with return air grates on either side acting as dead vents so return air can escape back to a common conditioned space. Simply said, a forced air system with proper supply and returns is more than sufficient, making any dead vent totally unnecessary. It is no secret that I am not a fan of dead vents UNLESS they are being used for soundproofing as part of the forced-air HVAC system supply or return and NOT supplemental ventilation unrelated to the primary HVAC system. What did he say about creating additional supply for the room if you move forward with your dead vents and separate in-line fans to force along the ventilation??
  • He is correct regarding the thermostat for the theater - but this is where the addition of mechanical dampers to your existing system would come into play to prevent over-cooling or over heating in the other primary area. What did he say about the possibility of adding dampers? It is unlikely that 100% of your HVAC's output should be diverted to either heat or cool this one room, so some of the dampers added to the upstairs (or other part of the basement) supply and return would have to be let open to get a proper cycle time vs. a 3 minute blast of artic air and then shutting off.
  • I don't like the idea of a mini-split.....at all. Although they are fairly quiet, they still make noise which is totally undesirable for your theater, not to mention the expense of the install.
  • I guess since he was talking about 45 and 90 he was thinking of using sheet metal for the supplies and return(s) which I would not do. I would use insulated flex duct if at all possible. You will still have a metal starting collar and perhaps an elbow if you have insufficient radius to bend the flex. But if you have the room and the ability to use flex, then use flex. If you must have metal ducting for less resistance and increased pressure, then you do what you have to do to get it mechanically "right". Just insulate and use a dead vent in this scenario, if possible.

Again, these are only my opinions based on my past research, education and projects involving HVAC. They are the true experts but as you pointed out - they may not have (i.e. probably not have) specialized knowledge on theater HVAC system setup. I am a bit surprised he didn't start with a heat load calculation as his very first step - it sounds like he didn't do one at all.
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post #192 of 597 Old 07-23-2012, 05:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Your right he didnt do any calculations and/or measurements. He also did not answer many of the questions above, only the ones stated in my last post. The gist of it is he kept dancing around the questions of how much supply and return will I need for this HT room. He did get into the thermal loss, which is pretty much nothing because it is completely below grade. I think what it comes down to is, he was not prepared for the questions that I asked him. I think he was coming over to take a look and recommend an orthodox system, not what we all want and do.

As far as the dampers, he just kept getting back to leaving the rest of the zone at the mercy of the HT.

Bottom line is I need to have another contractor come in, I still have a week, maybe two before I drywall. He was also a non-stop talker making it hard to get questions off, which is a surprise considering I can have a very strong presence.

Strike 1

A question for you Tim. I can get my supplies in at the required FPM at the diffusors. Considering this how would you address the returns?
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post #193 of 597 Old 07-23-2012, 06:28 PM
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...sizing will be very simple when I am ready. I will get a reading of CFM at the opening and find a diffusor rated at 250 FPM for the CFM I am getting.
What's your procedure for this?
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post #194 of 597 Old 07-23-2012, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I will need to get a reading of CFM with a Hood (what the HVAC guys use). Once I have the CFM at the exit point of the duct run then I will size my diffusor based on CFM that will get me 250 FPM. If you look at the specs of linear slot diffusors you will see a chart that lists all the required data for that model. I also used the CFM to FPM calculator. PM Mr. Tim or TM, they can answer better than I can
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post #195 of 597 Old 07-23-2012, 06:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Tim-

Did you ever get that carpet pattern I sent you. That is the closest I can find to the one in my render.
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post #196 of 597 Old 07-24-2012, 04:23 AM
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A question for you Tim. I can get my supplies in at the required FPM at the diffusors. Considering this how would you address the returns?
Sounds like the HVAC guy was a bit over his head, but he still should have been able to tell you the number and size of supplies, the thermal load calculation, etc. The fact that he did none of this would make me want to move on to the next company like you did. Perhaps you can interview a number of them by phone and set the expectations of what you are looking for a bit more before having a guy out so the goal is more clear for them. Regarding the returns, the rule of thumb is typically 2-3 times larger than what would normally be used for that size of duct. However, there has to be a bit of a balance and you do not want to make them too large. I personally stick with "the next size up" or something just under two times the size. For example, say the calculated return size is 10x10 (100 square inches). You could use a 12x12 (144 square inches) or a 14x14 (194 square inches) to increase the surface are of the return and reduce the possibility of creating air turbulence. The other thing you can do is have a decorative or "open" grate with zero filter panel on the room side, but locate the 1" filter panel a bit further down the line in a special-built airbox (which you can access, of course) to hold the panel in-line to the lead coming from the room and the lead going back to the HVAC system. This way the turbulence and possible slight whistle of a standard 1" air filter would be located away from the main room but still provide filtration to your system.

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I will need to get a reading of CFM with a Hood (what the HVAC guys use). Once I have the CFM at the exit point of the duct run then I will size my diffusor based on CFM that will get me 250 FPM. If you look at the specs of linear slot diffusors you will see a chart that lists all the required data for that model. I also used the CFM to FPM calculator. PM Mr. Tim or TM, they can answer better than I can
You can either use a "capture hood" with anemometer from an HVAC company (since those things are typically about $1500 each eek.gif) or just get yourself a simple handheld unit that not only measures CFM but also the exit temperature coming from the duct. Here is an example from Amazon. There is also a really nice "old school" tool called a Ductilator which will allow you to easily calculate the size duct you need for a certain volume of air (either supply or return) for rigid round, rigid square or flex duct alike. This is the exact one I have that I was able to get from my local Trane rep for free: http://www.constructionbook.com/ductulator-duct-sizing-calculator-trane-1998-d76/hvac-ducts/

But I would highly recommend (just like my previous comments) that a trained comfort adviser be hired as a consultant to work with and properly engineer your existing system to properly account for the fact that this room will be highly insulated and close to airtight with more people and electronics than is normal during peak times (Super Bowl parties, etc.). In most cases adding additional supply, a dedicated return, and mechanical dampers with a dedicated thermostat for the theater will get you close or in the "acceptable" range. The only way to have a truly perfect system for the room is to buy a dedicated HVAC system for the space which is typically not practical or affordable.

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Tim-
Did you ever get that carpet pattern I sent you. That is the closest I can find to the one in my render.
Yes, thank you. I have been trying to catch up on e-mail after being away for four days. That is closer than anything, but you are right - it is not dead on. I am going to locate a dealer for this carpet today and order one of their complementary samples. Thank you! By the way . . . I haven't found that carpet yet, but I will keep looking.

I hope this helps.
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post #197 of 597 Old 07-24-2012, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Tim

I have searched a bit today but havent really found much in my area. There are a ton of HVAC contractors but nothing that sticks out as someone that may work. I may be searching with the wrong key words. I'll keep at it.
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post #198 of 597 Old 07-24-2012, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Drywall gets delivered Friday and goes up early next week for the rest of the basement. I need to get someone in here really soon.
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post #199 of 597 Old 07-24-2012, 05:26 PM
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Thanks Tim
I have searched a bit today but havent really found much in my area. There are a ton of HVAC contractors but nothing that sticks out as someone that may work. I may be searching with the wrong key words. I'll keep at it.

If I could make a suggestion - look at the "rich" area of town and who generally does the systems for the really expensive homes. These companies are the ones that will have the most familiarity with engineering unique solutions - such as wine cellars, EVHR make-up air for 600+ CFM kitchen hood vents, temperature zoning, etc. - essentially the most complicated stuff available. If you don't know who does the HVAC for these homes then I would look toward luxury custom home builders and call their office to see who they use.
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post #200 of 597 Old 07-24-2012, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Good idea. I have been hitting google pretty hard for engineering services, no luck so far.

One thing I did want to get your opinion on is this. I have decided to swap the supplies and returns location. I had the supplies in the back and the returns about 3/4 toward the front. The more I think about it, because I will have soffits all the way around the room I can use them as a muffler and place the supplies up front. I can then do one of two things. Build the dead vent outside the theater or tie the return into the Main return. Either solution I can work with a little creativity. I know it is ideal to have the supplies high and returns low, but i think I might have to do both high.

BTW....Kane has some very nice carpets. Did you get any quotes on them?
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post #201 of 597 Old 07-24-2012, 06:45 PM
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Good idea. I have been hitting google pretty hard for engineering services, no luck so far.
One thing I did want to get your opinion on is this. I have decided to swap the supplies and returns location. I had the supplies in the back and the returns about 3/4 toward the front. The more I think about it, because I will have soffits all the way around the room I can use them as a muffler and place the supplies up front. I can then do one of two things. Build the dead vent outside the theater or tie the return into the Main return. Either solution I can work with a little creativity. I know it is ideal to have the supplies high and returns low, but i think I might have to do both high.
BTW....Kane has some very nice carpets. Did you get any quotes on them?

I (you) always put the supplies toward the front because you don't want the conditioned air dumping directly on the seating area which is always toward the back. Just be careful that the supply air is diverted away from the screen so it doesn't wave slightly back and forth with the air movement.

Do you have a simple sketch of this room where you can show your proposed paths for the supplies, returns, dead vents, etc? I can't seem to wrap my head around where this is going at this point without seeing a visual because of all the changes - thanks.

No quotes, but Kane is anywhere from $50 - $125 per square yard depending on the carpet type and pattern. I think the one I chose was in the $75 / yard neighborhood, excluding pad and installation.... frown.gif My first priority is getting the right carpet and then negotiating the Hell out of it with a small number of vendors that will sell and install perfectly for a reasonable price. I guess we'll see on that one.
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post #202 of 597 Old 07-24-2012, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Let me do some sketchup work and I'll post. Your right, I am getting confused myself and i am down there everyday. and if i dont post any pics i'll be forced to post more of kate upton...so on second thought i'll just skip the sketch
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post #203 of 597 Old 07-24-2012, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, this is a very simple floor plan with the general layout. A little explanation. The front is up top where the trunk is, seating in the back. The air handler is in unfinished storage up and to the left of the HT To the right and behind the room is the concrete foundation walls. I have a finished storage area above and a tv room/ play room to the left. I placed the trunk and 2 supplies in the exact locations they are today. Both are 6". One is in the theater. The one on the left is not, i was going to bring it in. So its pretty much a blank canvas. What I have to work with is this:

Can use the soffits to move ductwork around the room.
Can use the two rooms for equipment/deadvents, with limits of course.

Im all ears. Im also on borrowed time as the drywall is about a week away for the rest of the basement. This will limit what I can do some, but not cripple me.

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post #204 of 597 Old 07-25-2012, 05:52 AM
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Let me do some sketchup work and I'll post. Your right, I am getting confused myself and i am down there everyday. and if i dont post any pics i'll be forced to post more of kate upton...so on second thought i'll just skip the sketch
No worries. I'll help you out this time....biggrin.gif
Upton.jpg

Now, on to more pressing matters....

  • I can tell you unequivocally that one 6" supply to your theater will be insufficient
  • Where are your proposed dead vent locations?
  • Where are your proposed return air locations?
  • One thing I hadn't mentioned explicitly before is if your current HVAC system has enough heating and cooling capacity to condition the basement and the intended first floor at the same time? That's the reasoning behind providing your HVAC guy with the brand and model number of your indoor furnace, air coil and condensing unit so this may be determined. I have a dedicated system for each floor of my house, so I knew the size of my unit was sufficient (I know, I know....that's what she said biggrin.gif), so all I had to focus on was properly dividing up, sizing and zoning the existing supply and returns which I hired a professional firm to engineer. I then put everything in and they inspected my work before calling the inspector for final sign-off on the work.
  • I would recommend that you build your theater room shell with metal stub-outs coming into the room where your soffit will be built afterward and use this area as your dead vent / soundproofing area. Since the return will be larger, I would run in the joists of the ceiling and come down with a 90 degree elbow straight into the intended soffit area at the back of the room.

But again - check with your pro HVAC guy that you hire as they are the true experts.
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post #205 of 597 Old 07-25-2012, 06:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I am using the 6" supply outside of the room and bringing it in. I never intended to have just one supply. My first plan was for 2 supplies in the back of the room (one coming from outside the HT). The deadvent returns would have been built behind the screen wall up front. using the soffit for the return duct which would be placed just short of half way to the back of the room (also in a soffit)

The system is more than enough for the first floor and basement (which is one zone). The whole basement was build a a conditioned space since the house was built. There are 8 registers in the basement. The only change at all with the supplies would have been taking one from the adjacent room which already has three.

Can you explain "I would recommend that you build your theater room shell with metal stub-outs coming into the room where your soffit will be built afterward and use this area as your dead vent / soundproofing area. Since the return will be larger, I would run in the joists of the ceiling and come down with a 90 degree elbow straight into the intended soffit area at the back of the room. "

My joists run perpendicular to the screen and back wall. So there are a few obstacles in bringing in the outside duct, but I am willing to frame a soffit around anywhere I need to run the duct in the outside room. Everything revolves around the HT.

Took me a while to type this as I constantly stare at her, even if she is wearing the hat of a team I have hated my whole life....lol
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post #206 of 597 Old 07-25-2012, 07:52 AM
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Took me a while to type this as I constantly stare at her, even if she is wearing the hat of a team I have hated my whole life....lol

Hahaha, I didn't notice the hat until after reading this. rolleyes.gif

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Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #207 of 597 Old 07-25-2012, 08:12 AM
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Can you explain "I would recommend that you build your theater room shell with metal stub-outs coming into the room where your soffit will be built afterward and use this area as your dead vent / soundproofing area. Since the return will be larger, I would run in the joists of the ceiling and come down with a 90 degree elbow straight into the intended soffit area at the back of the room. "

My joists run perpendicular to the screen and back wall. So there are a few obstacles in bringing in the outside duct, but I am willing to frame a soffit around anywhere I need to run the duct in the outside room.

Yeah, I'd forgive her for the Yankees cap...and even while trying to whistle Dixie while eating Graham Crackers in bed because that's just the sweet, sensitive guy I am - lol!

To explain my comment above I am posting a picture here from Moggie's build:
Moggie.jpg

You'll see that he has an HVAC penetration through the shell in preparation for routing the other ducting through the perimeter soffit which he is building on top of his soundproof theater shell. This way the soffit functions as an additional layer of soundproofing for the HVAC penetration. Moggie also uses the less-common duct board which is of course much better for soundproofing that even a simple metal collar penetration.

I didn't realize your joist ran perpendicular to the room. It seems the only thing you could do is build a return air soffit in the playroom to the left and then bring it directly over through the joists at the back of the theater.

It is good to know that they sized your system for both the first floor and the basement so all you have to focus on is the dampers and zoning.
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post #208 of 597 Old 07-25-2012, 08:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok.

This is what I am thinking. I will bring the two supplies down from the joists (like Moggie's) and penetrate the ceiling of the shell. I will then make those duct runs inside the soffits (which will be built after the shell) to the front of the room to each diffusor. The return I will build in the adjacent room and run it into the back of the HT room in the same fashion that I did the supplies using the soffits for the duct run. That way all of my duct runs can be placed inside of a muffler/soffit and this will address the sound issue.

What do you think about using an in-line to pull the return air. The fan can be built inside a soundproof box, like a dead vent and that box will be in the playroom. Or should my return simply be a duct run from the HT to the playroom. I have a few options here. I can make this run from the HT to the playroom and from there run parrallel to the joists and tie back into the main return at the air handler.

Then install dampers/thermostat/temp sensor to properly control the HT room's climate.
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post #209 of 597 Old 07-25-2012, 09:07 AM
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Ok.
This is what I am thinking. I will bring the two supplies down from the joists (like Moggie's) and penetrate the ceiling of the shell. I will then make those duct runs inside the soffits (which will be built after the shell) to the front of the room to each diffusor. The return I will build in the adjacent room and run it into the back of the HT room in the same fashion that I did the supplies using the soffits for the duct run. That way all of my duct runs can be placed inside of a muffler/soffit and this will address the sound issue.
What do you think about using an in-line to pull the return air. The fan can be built inside a soundproof box, like a dead vent and that box will be in the playroom. Or should my return simply be a duct run from the HT to the playroom. I have a few options here. I can make this run from the HT to the playroom and from there run parrallel to the joists and tie back into the main return at the air handler.
Then install dampers/thermostat/temp sensor to properly control the HT room's climate.

Your plan is exactly why I don't like dead vents and feel they are not necessary except when they are used as part of the forced-air HVAC system. A properly sized / zoned and dampered system will not need this supplemental in-line fan that is not tied into anything related to the main HVAC system from an electronic / control perspective. Remember, you must supply and return the same amount of air. If you have a fixed supply and suddenly are pulling 400 CFM out of the room through an in-line fan, where does the additional supply to make up for this deficit come from? It doesn't. I feel a bit like I am repeating myself with these statements regarding a properly engineered HVAC system, but I will say it one more time - a properly zoned and dampered HVAC system should have all the supply and return air you need for your room without the need for additional inline fans, dead vents for ventilation, etc. - period. Using a dead vent in conjunction with normal HVAC supply and return? Fine. Using a small in-line fan to exhaust a projector hush box into the return plenum or another room? Fine. Using a dead vent and/or an in-line fan to force ventilate a room independent of the HVAC system - NOT a good idea IMHO.
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post #210 of 597 Old 07-25-2012, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I apologize for the repeated questions, I guess I just flat out dont know enough about this to get a handle on what you are saying. Scratch the dead vent. What do you think about the supplies I outlined above?

If you are in agreement with that, what would be the solution for the return.

I do understand the issue with the dead vent in-line fan. Basically you cannot pull more air out than the supplies are bringing in, and vice versa. What I am unsure about is the zoning and damping. When you say zoned properly do you mean is the zone designed to handle both the basement and first floor. Or does the basement need to be on its own zone. As far as the damping, here is my understanding of it. I would have my supplies and return tapped into the HVAC system, dampers would be installed in both supply and return. Dampers would control air in and out to keep things balanced. Is this the solution? Again, sorry...just dont grasp all of this entirely
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