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post #1 of 51 Old 06-13-2012, 07:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey all,

I've been perusing the forum for a while now, and I just moved into a house which can accommodate a decent theater. The basement is mostly unfinished, with 7' 6" ceilings; I know, lower than I'd like.

Anyway, here is a picture of the current layout. The room in the top left is the only finished room.




Edit: Newest plan:




It's also narrower than I'd like, but I'm not moving the cement block wall. The good news is that most of the walls of the proposed theater are cement block. The "H"s represent support beams, next to which there is a lot of ductwork, so that's why I'm not planning the theater on the right hand side of the basement.

I plan on a 9'-wide screen, probably 2.35:1, and two rows of theater recliners, seating 5. Also, I plan on having bar seating in the back, and an AT screen. I feel I have the length for it, even if the width is limited.

A few questions:

How do you propose I orient the room? I've been assuming that I'd have the screen on the wall to the left, but I prefer to walk in at the front of the theater than the rear. Also, where do you recommend I put the door?

I'm sure I'll have a ton more questions as we progress, and I've set myself a deadline of Superbowl 2013 biggrin.gif, so if I start falling behind I'll probably give BigmouthinDC a call.

Thanks for any input!

Aaron
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post #2 of 51 Old 06-14-2012, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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This is what I'm thinking.

Proposed-1.jpg

Any thoughts, concerns, recommendations, changes, etc?

Btw, those are bar stools, not toilets. There will be a bar in front of them.
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post #3 of 51 Old 06-14-2012, 01:28 PM
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one thing to consider is your sound where are your side speakers going to go? FOr proper sound they should be about 3' away from your side walls. Tucking them in cornors is never optimal. Unless sound is not a concern is not for many people. Other than that look good.

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post #4 of 51 Old 06-14-2012, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by programmergeek View Post

one thing to consider is your sound where are your side speakers going to go? FOr proper sound they should be about 3' away from your side walls. Tucking them in cornors is never optimal. Unless sound is not a concern is not for many people. Other than that look good.

That's a good point. I hadn't thought about it except that I decided I want to do 7.1 or 7.2. I have to figure out where I'm going to put the sides. I may just focus on the front row and let the back two rows suffice with what will amount to 5.1 if the "bump-in" blocks the sound from the side speaker.
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post #5 of 51 Old 06-14-2012, 04:06 PM
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If the block wall is not load bearing, then I would take it down. It will come down a lot easier than you think. By doing this you can get a theater that is slightly wider than what you have now and it can be what ever depth that you want. More importantly, it will not have the bump in causing problems. Keep in mind that you are talking about spending a fair amount of money. I would not let that wall stop you from doing it right. After knocking off the top row, once you get one block out, the rest of the block can be pried loose easily so that you can carry them out whole. Shoot me an email if you have any questions.

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post #6 of 51 Old 06-14-2012, 05:51 PM
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I think the room to the left of the stairs may be a better choice for the HT.

If that's out of the question I would flip-flop what you have. Center everything 5' from the cement block wall. Use the bump on the bottom as a walkway. Move the entry door closer to the stair so you enter the room between the new screen location and the first row of seating. Make the front row 2 seats and the second row 3 seats.
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post #7 of 51 Old 06-14-2012, 06:22 PM
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post #8 of 51 Old 06-14-2012, 06:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

If the block wall is not load bearing, then I would take it down. It will come down a lot easier than you think. By doing this you can get a theater that is slightly wider than what you have now and it can be what ever depth that you want. More importantly, it will not have the bump in causing problems. Keep in mind that you are talking about spending a fair amount of money. I would not let that wall stop you from doing it right. After knocking off the top row, once you get one block out, the rest of the block can be pried loose easily so that you can carry them out whole. Shoot me an email if you have any questions.

Unfortunately it is load-bearing. We were going to move it anyway but my engineer told me not to as we're getting ready to add another story to the house, and want to leave the existing load-bearing walls where they are.

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I think the room to the left of the stairs may be a better choice for the HT.
If that's out of the question I would flip-flop what you have. Center everything 5' from the cement block wall. Use the bump on the bottom as a walkway. Move the entry door closer to the stair so you enter the room between the new screen location and the first row of seating. Make the front row 2 seats and the second row 3 seats.

I voted for the room at the bottom of the stairs as well, but the wife vetoed it. Also, that room is already finished and has a bulkhead and I prefer to start with unfinished space.

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Quick idea:
450

I really like that. And as I mentioned, I prefer to walk in at the front. Thanks! That also makes speaker placement easier.
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post #9 of 51 Old 06-15-2012, 03:57 AM
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Just note those seats are modeled after real theater seats. They are very narrow. If you are going to get real comfortable recliners, you will likely end up with a front row of 2 and a second row of 3.
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post #10 of 51 Old 07-31-2012, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm getting ready to frame the rest of the basement, but I had a few questions first.

1. How much length do I really need to fit two rows of theater recliners, one row of bar seating, and an AT screen (8.5' or 9' wide, 2.35:1)?
2. Is a double wall that much better that a staggered stud wall?
3. For the walls of the home theater, do I secure the baseplates to the floor? Or does that mess with the decoupling somehow?

Thanks!
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post #11 of 51 Old 08-06-2012, 11:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronN View Post

I'm getting ready to frame the rest of the basement, but I had a few questions first.
1. How much length do I really need to fit two rows of theater recliners, one row of bar seating, and an AT screen (8.5' or 9' wide, 2.35:1)?
2. Is a double wall that much better that a staggered stud wall?
3. For the walls of the home theater, do I secure the baseplates to the floor? Or does that mess with the decoupling somehow?
Thanks!

Bump. I can really use some help here, especially regarding question 1.
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post #12 of 51 Old 08-06-2012, 12:41 PM
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1. I'm no expert when it comes to laying out viewing distances and such but if you did 2' behind your AT screen + 10' to your first row + 6.5' for your second row + about 4' for the bar then that brings you to about 23' total. You might want more space between your first row and the screen though.

2. A double wall is better since staggered walls are connected through the top and bottom plate. If you are going the full nine yards with soundproofing then I would either use a double wall or clips and channel. Keep in mind that stud walls built next to foundation walls are already decoupled and need to be placed about 1" from the foundation. No double wall is necessary there.

3. Yes, secure them to the floor.
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post #13 of 51 Old 08-06-2012, 12:56 PM - Thread Starter
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post #14 of 51 Old 01-09-2013, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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So this may no longer be the appropriate sub-forum for my build as it's no longer a designated room. The wife used her veto power. I thought I'd post an update anyway.

The new plans:

Basement_zps7fa88194.jpg

It's slightly off, but gives a general idea.

Demolition of the pesky wal. Looking towards the screen walll:

20121016_153251_zpsca0d1830.jpg
20121016_153300_zps3d914798.jpg
20121017_141055_zps10865554.jpg


Framed. Looking towards the screen wall:

20130108_091225_zps27308cb8.jpg
20130108_091251_zps65015067.jpg
20130108_091225_zps27308cb8.jpg

Small equipment closet on the right.

20130108_091242_zps7b8d7c02.jpg


I just placed a large monoprice order for all my low-voltage stuff, and plan on wiring power and low-voltage within the next week or two. Then it's insulation, drywall, screen wall, riser, etc.

Any suggestions are more than welcome!
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post #15 of 51 Old 01-13-2013, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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I just finished the wiring for the first five speakers, but I am a little stumped on where to place the rears. I am trying to avoid in-ceilings and floorstanding rears. I guess that pretty much leaves me with ceiling mounted bookshelves. The questions is, where should I place them. The sides will be above ear level next to the front row. Should the rears just focus on the front row? Or should they be behind the rear bar?

Any input is really helpful.
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post #16 of 51 Old 01-13-2013, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AaronN View Post

I just finished the wiring for the first five speakers, but I am a little stumped on where to place the rears. I am trying to avoid in-ceilings and floorstanding rears. I guess that pretty much leaves me with ceiling mounted bookshelves. The questions is, where should I place them. The sides will be above ear level next to the front row. Should the rears just focus on the front row? Or should they be behind the rear bar?

Any input is really helpful.

Aaron, It may be just that your pictures are not clear enough to give detail but did you place regular, bare 2 X 4s against cement in some places? I sure hope not as any wood touching cement should be treated or protected in some way. You may get a way with untreated lumber for a short period of time but it will come back to haunt you later.
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post #17 of 51 Old 01-13-2013, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Aaron, It may be just that your pictures are not clear enough to give detail but did you place regular, bare 2 X 4s against cement in some places? I sure hope not as any wood touching cement should be treated or protected in some way. You may get a way with untreated lumber for a short period of time but it will come back to haunt you later.

Thank you for the concern. All bottom plates that abut exterior walls are treated. The only wall that is completely untreated in the right wall along the theater. It was an oversight and will be corrected before drywall goes up. Thanks again!
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post #18 of 51 Old 01-23-2013, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Small update. Low voltage is wired. Started on the electrical.

Found a great deal on Berkline recliners on Craigslist, but not sure of the model. Does anyone know? I think I narrowed it down to the Bijou 45099 or the Astoria 45013.



Also, what wiring should I do to future proof? I current only have:

HDMI from equipment closet to projector.
Speaker wire to all 7 locations, and 3/4" Carlon conduit along side it.
2 RCA cables to the front, plus an extra coax.

I see a lot of people using cat 5 or cat 6; should I wire some, and why?

Thanks!
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post #19 of 51 Old 01-23-2013, 04:38 PM
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4 Category cables to the projector for control/extra, HDMI replacement (x 2) and LAN, is what I would suggest. I would also run empty conduit to the projector, for future cable placement.

Category cable from your router location to your equipment - LAN.

Category cable to the screen - if you ever want to do wired control of the screen or masking.

Cat cable to the light switch location - hardwired control of lights.

Cat cable to WAP location, if that's a consideration.

Cat cable to future in-wall iPad/iPod/tablet dock location.

Cat cable to anything else you might want to control in the future; bury it behind drywall, take lots of pics before burying.

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post #20 of 51 Old 01-23-2013, 04:40 PM
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Also, run cables for the room above, before you lose easy access.

And, great find on the seats!

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post #21 of 51 Old 01-23-2013, 04:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks so much, Neurorad! That's exactly what I'm looking for. What diameter conduit is recommended to the projector location? Also, I'm pretty clueless when it comes to cat cables; do I want cat5, cat5e, cat6, or something else. I'm getting ready to place another Monoprice order.
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post #22 of 51 Old 01-23-2013, 08:44 PM
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Buy a 500 or 1000 ft box of cat6, and see how far that gets you. You don't need to do all those suggested runs, just think them over.

Most people go with 1.5" or larger flex conduit, to accommodate the large HDMI connector ends. Hopefully future HDMI cable connectors won't be bigger in the future. More than likely, you'll never need the conduit, if you run multiple cat cables, but it's nice to have.

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post #23 of 51 Old 01-24-2013, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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post #24 of 51 Old 01-25-2013, 01:33 AM
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Nice looking build - subscribed!
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post #25 of 51 Old 01-29-2013, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Trying to figure out screen size:



This is 105" long, which is 114" diagonal in 2.35:1 cinemascope. It felt too small, escpecially since I'm leaning towards a constant image height screen which would make 16:9 viewing quite small on a 92" diagonal screen.

So I'll probably go up to 120" or 125" wide, or I'll switch to constant image width, which would make 16:9 viewing HUGE, or I'll do some combination thereof.
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post #26 of 51 Old 02-01-2013, 04:25 AM
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Go big. You can always mask down in the future.
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post #27 of 51 Old 02-05-2013, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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^^^ Yeah, that's the plan.

Anyway, picked up a set of 5 Klipsch speakers locally: 2 older KG 4.5 towers (10" driver and 1" tweeter), and some newer Klipsch Synergy surrounds and center. I'll pick up some Klipsch in-walls for the side-surrounds.

They should hold me over till I go all out.










Now I have to decide on a receiver...
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post #28 of 51 Old 02-05-2013, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Scratch that, the eBay seller just sent me an email reneging on the sale stating that they meant to set a reserve.
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Quote:
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Scratch that, the eBay seller just sent me an email reneging on the sale stating that they meant to set a reserve.

For the speakers or something else?

That's not cool!
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post #30 of 51 Old 02-05-2013, 07:37 PM - Thread Starter
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For the speakers or something else?

That's not cool!

Yes, the speaker seller. They were pretty local (about 45 min. away) and it was a no-reserve auction that I won at $141. It's just not worth the headache to pursue.
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