2 Zone Recessed lighting Suggestions - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Above is the layout I've determined for the recessed lighting for the movie room. The lights will be 5" and I'll be using 50w par30 flood lights. I have ordered 2 dimmer switches that I plan to tie these to. Walls are dark grey and ceiling is dark blue. Have total light control in this room.

The screen is at the top of the sketch. 104" is the width of the screen.

1. I'm looking for suggestions on the which lights should be tied to each dimmer. the first dimmer will at the very least be tied to the front row closest to the screen. However, because is my first rodeo, I'm not sure if that will be adequate for viewing scenarios (such as sports) where the other two rows will be lit. I'm looking for suggestions based on other experiences with this. I do not think my setup really warrants 3 dimmers, and I would like to stay away from that.

2. In my current layout, the last row is 16ft from the wall. My plan is to mount the projector at 17' (or 18' if I have to for head space at the second row). Will this be too close to the projector? Since these bulbs are incandescent, I'm concerned about the heat. Anyone with knowledge on this please share.

Also, I'm open to suggestions with the lighting pattern. Based on my research in the forum, this is what seems to be "recommended".

Thanks in advance for the help.

MD
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post #2 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 09:56 AM
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Is this a flat ceiling or do you have soffits of some sort.

I'd push the lights closer to the walls so you can wash the walls with low level light. Do you even need lights directly over the seating areas? I find any overhead light very distracting when viewing under low light conditions. Overhead lights will be shining on objects within the same field of view as the screen, whereas lights at the sides will light up your peripheral vision.

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post #3 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 10:19 AM
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I would add a third circuit of lighting lighting a foot off the screen, The light bouncing off the screen will really light up a dark room between viewings.

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post #4 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ka[]e[] View Post

Above is the layout I've determined for the recessed lighting for the movie room. The lights will be 5" and I'll be using 50w par30 flood lights. I have ordered 2 dimmer switches that I plan to tie these to. Walls are dark grey and ceiling is dark blue. Have total light control in this room.

First, I'd echo petew's comments about placement. Two dimmers for this size of a room may not be adequate to get the desired lighting scenes for a theater...
Quote:
1. I'm looking for suggestions on the which lights should be tied to each dimmer. the first dimmer will at the very least be tied to the front row closest to the screen. However, because is my first rodeo, I'm not sure if that will be adequate for viewing scenarios (such as sports) where the other two rows will be lit. I'm looking for suggestions based on other experiences with this. I do not think my setup really warrants 3 dimmers, and I would like to stay away from that.

Take a look at the lighting setup in my build thread. You want to keep the front of the room dark during movie watching so you don't throw light onto the screen, so that's one dimmer. Keeping the wall wash lights on at a moderate level is your second. Having light overhead of the seating location is a third.

I didn't put any downlights over my seating positions, and I wish I had, as it's too dim in my room to read comfortably. But that said, those would absolutely need to be on their own dimmer. As petew said, having those on for movie watching would be a distraction.

Not sure why you want to stay away from more than 2 dimmers / zones. The cost is really minimal at this stage, especially for the potential flexibility. You can always combine wiring at the switch if you don't need them separated. But you can't divide them later...
Quote:
2. In my current layout, the last row is 16ft from the wall. My plan is to mount the projector at 17' (or 18' if I have to for head space at the second row). Will this be too close to the projector? Since these bulbs are incandescent, I'm concerned about the heat. Anyone with knowledge on this please share.

Heat probably not a big deal, but you probably want to adjust your lighting placement regardless. The standard grid placement for downlighting in a normal room isn't the best approach for a theater...

Hope that helps,

Jeff


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post #5 of 15 Old 06-22-2012, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply guys.

The ceiling is flat. No Soffit. how close to the walls do the lights need to be for this "wall washing" effect? I still want to have enough lighting in the room for sporting events, etc. Maybe a 3/4/4 pattern with the lights, with 4 in the middle and back rows?
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post #6 of 15 Old 06-23-2012, 04:18 PM
 
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This is what I would so with your lighting layout and dimmer situation.

Id use URC remote controlable dimmers wich offer light dimming and scene control if programmed and used with a URC remote control.

If you need / want differant brightness for differant viewing experiences this would work easily as you can make "movie" and "sports" modes although I would have a Movie and Music mode because no matter what Im watching in my theater I want my lighting to be the same ( darkness )
If Im listening to music I will however change lighting modes from either all on and mess around with brightness. But since I have 6 cans in my room all loaded with 50 watt bulbs all on is just fine.

So heres how I figure your lighting plan with 2 dimmers. Allow the 4 corner cans to be on one dimmer and the remaining cans on the 2nd dimmer.....The 4 corner cans can be then the lights dimmed during movies and the center cans be turned off completly. It should allow enough light in the room to see your way in and out and to get to and from seating for guests to grab popcorn and make bathroom runs without disturbing the movie and other guests that may be in the room.

You can then set up a music mode where mabe those 4 cans are fully lit and the center cans dimmed. Youd experiment with scenes as you like and when you find one that works you can program it as your music scene.

Im courious as to what dimmers you ordered as most lutron dimmers are redily availabel at Home Depot. 416
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post #7 of 15 Old 06-24-2012, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vic C View Post

This is what I would so with your lighting layout and dimmer situation.
Id use URC remote controlable dimmers wich offer light dimming and scene control if programmed and used with a URC remote control.
If you need / want differant brightness for differant viewing experiences this would work easily as you can make "movie" and "sports" modes although I would have a Movie and Music mode because no matter what Im watching in my theater I want my lighting to be the same ( darkness )
If Im listening to music I will however change lighting modes from either all on and mess around with brightness. But since I have 6 cans in my room all loaded with 50 watt bulbs all on is just fine.
So heres how I figure your lighting plan with 2 dimmers. Allow the 4 corner cans to be on one dimmer and the remaining cans on the 2nd dimmer.....The 4 corner cans can be then the lights dimmed during movies and the center cans be turned off completly. It should allow enough light in the room to see your way in and out and to get to and from seating for guests to grab popcorn and make bathroom runs without disturbing the movie and other guests that may be in the room.
You can then set up a music mode where mabe those 4 cans are fully lit and the center cans dimmed. Youd experiment with scenes as you like and when you find one that works you can program it as your music scene.
Im courious as to what dimmers you ordered as most lutron dimmers are redily availabel at Home Depot. 416

I like your idea. I ordered the maestro dimmers, so I don't know if I'll be able to do what you have suggested, since I only have one scene option.
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post #8 of 15 Old 06-24-2012, 07:01 PM
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You could always go Insteon dimmers. That way you can link any circuits together really easy, or create as few or as many scenes as you want. I actually installed a separate dimmer at the base of my stairs that turns all lights off, regardless when switch controls them. The cool thing is that when I press it, the main lights go out fairly quickly but the 'accent lights' on some of the walls fade much more slowly and the light on the stairs takes 20s to fade out - plenty of time to walk up the stairs and not have to press the button at the top !cool.gif

... Andy

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post #9 of 15 Old 06-24-2012, 07:10 PM
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Hey Andy. Have you had good reliability with the Insteon dimmers? I'd love to have Lutron Radio RA but am put off by the expense and by not having software readily available to a DIYer. I'd need the IP gateway so I can control them with iRule/iTrinket. I've got x10 now - they're headed to the recycle bin next weekend for a few $4 knob dimmers to hold me over until I decide on what to use. Sorry for the hijack.

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post #10 of 15 Old 06-25-2012, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by andymo View Post

You could always go Insteon dimmers. That way you can link any circuits together really easy, or create as few or as many scenes as you want. I actually installed a separate dimmer at the base of my stairs that turns all lights off, regardless when switch controls them. The cool thing is that when I press it, the main lights go out fairly quickly but the 'accent lights' on some of the walls fade much more slowly and the light on the stairs takes 20s to fade out - plenty of time to walk up the stairs and not have to press the button at the top !cool.gif

What type of Insteon dimmers did you use? I have a wall light where the stairs are, and its wired on a 3-ways switch. There is another switch for the fans/lights that are currently in the room (being removed). Is there a model available that will work with an IR remote (I have a harmony 900)?
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post #11 of 15 Old 06-25-2012, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by ka[]e[] View Post

What type of Insteon dimmers did you use? I have a wall light where the stairs are, and its wired on a 3-ways switch. There is another switch for the fans/lights that are currently in the room (being removed). Is there a model available that will work with an IR remote (I have a harmony 900)?

I am using a combination of their basic SwitchLinc dimmers (communicate over power line) and the dual mode dimmers (communicate over both power line and RF). You can make any dimmer a master or slave of another. As an example, my stair wiring did NOT have a 3 conductor cable to do a normal 3-way cct. So instead of ripping up the walls I just put an insteon dimmer at the top and at the bottom of the stairs and made each dimmer a slave of the other. Whatever I do on one is copied on the other.

They have an IR interface, but that is a separate unit I believe.

As far as reliability, I am quite happy. I have only had one dimmer lock-up, and it was easy to reset and it did not lose it's configuration. Actually, I removed every plug and switch in my basement for the drywall and when I put them back 2 weeks later they all remembered their master-slave arrangements. Sweet!

... Andy

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post #12 of 15 Old 06-28-2012, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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So I was doing some reading, and came up with an alternative layout for the lighting. I would remove the two lights with the "X" and have the remaining lights on separate dimmers. Thoughts?? lighting layout Option 2.JPG 59k .JPG file
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post #13 of 15 Old 06-28-2012, 04:54 PM
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Assuming the light in the center is above your main seating, I would leave that, on its own dimmer, and use a "pointable" spot fixture, so you have a reading light.


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post #14 of 15 Old 06-28-2012, 08:11 PM
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Assuming the light in the center is above your main seating, I would leave that, on its own dimmer, and use a "pointable" spot fixture, so you have a reading light.

+1... And again, why are you trying to "stick to two dimmers"? The cost to add more at this stage is trivial, and can have considerable impact on how you use and enjoy the space...

Jeff


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post #15 of 15 Old 06-30-2012, 06:26 PM
 
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I recomend the URC Dimmers and switches. They are super easy to integrate into URC control systems. I dotn see the need really for big expensive control sysetms any more. And even over what I saw the last control 4 system do I can do with URC.

If you have a higher end URC controler you can program timer macros to fire off when ever you want to turn on an doff lights any where in your home.

ka[]e[] I used to use the Lutron Miestro dimemrs all the time. They are really great In fact one theater I did before the URC lien came out was to use 3 of them in a theater. Each one's scene was programmed with differant lighting values so when we made the remote hit MOVIE mode it sent the scene command and each dimmer went to its pre determained setting.

You can problay do it with the Miestro but your only going to have ALL ON ALL OFF and "MOVE" ( programmed scene) to choose from and if you have a universal remote programmed with the dimming functions you will be talkign to both dimmers at the same time unless you run 2 seperate IR emmitors with IR routing. Way too complicated when all you need it two URC dimmers. Youd set each dimmer with its own address then be able to control your lights how ever you wanted.

I have my dimmers programmed with All ON All OFF and Movie mode. I havent set a music listenig mode because with all my lights on the room is still lt like a studio. I only put in 50 watt bulbs and they are resesed about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in my cans. So they dont spread light as wide as the can is designed to.

I wanted to play around with the dimmers and add more control but I simply dont need it. The fact though is I can turn the theater lights on or off from any where in the house. Just like my pool light. I put in a URC switch so I can turn it on or off if I forget to when Im in the theater or turn it on from the theater if Im going to hit the pool
after amovie.....

I also thought about getting other switches for my hall and stair way so when I turn off my theater at night it would turn on all the lights leading to my bedroom then set that off macro to turn all the lighting off 3 to 5 minutes later once im in the bedroom..... smile.gif
Mabe one day Ill do it................
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