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post #1 of 34 Old 07-12-2012, 08:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I have standard white door (I think fiberglass, not sure) for the game room. Since I converted into home theater, I want to replace with door that does not have gap at the bottom and does not transmit sound. I am not able to increase volume much due to complaint from my wife to the down stairs family room. I am hoping one of the culprit is the door.

Appreciate if you can share any door that I can buy in Home depot or any other store in Dallas, Texas. If it is too expensive, I want to know if I can improve existing door to reduce sound transmission.
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post #2 of 34 Old 07-13-2012, 08:23 AM
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The cheapest option that is better than what you have would be a standard exterior door. With the gaskets around the edges, the seal at the threshold and the simple fact that its 10x heavier than a standard interior hollowcore door...you will notice a difference. I have seen them on sale for $99 every once in a while. (the ones with no windows are always cheaper and thats what you would want)

Forward to the next level and your looking at a thicker / special order door. Thats what I did with a 1 3/4" solid core, fully sealed with a 1" thick jam and ball bearing hinges. That dude cost me about $250.

More that that are custom doors made specifically for soudproofing (think 3-5x the price), but if your room isn't decoupled and sealed tight...that is definitely a waste of money, as the door isn't the only place the sound is escaping.
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post #3 of 34 Old 07-13-2012, 01:42 PM
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Bronco is right on. The more massive 1 3/4" door is a good starting point.You'd need aftermarket acoustical seals to complete the job.

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post #4 of 34 Old 07-13-2012, 02:22 PM
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Ted has the seals, I've used them, they work. Order a 1 3/4 thick Masonite safe and sound solid core door in a style to match the rest of the house. You can do this at HD or Lowe's. Don't kid yourself that just fixing the door will satisfy she who must be pleased. There are a lot of ways for sound to make it to her ears. The door because you can see the gap is just one pathway.
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post #5 of 34 Old 07-13-2012, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all replies. It is good to know about 1 -3/4 inch hard door. I will research at HD and Lowes. I did not know anything about doors before. I am hoping that it will reduce at least some sound to down stairs to family room.

I will reply as soon as I research in local stores. I painted very dark blue for all home theater. May be it is good idea to get somebody to paint the door and install it.
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post #6 of 34 Old 07-13-2012, 08:36 PM
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If you go with a thicker door you might as well get a prehung door, it won't fit properly in your exiting jamb without removing and relocating the stops. to replace a pre-hung you remove the case molding on both sides slice around the perimeter of the jamb with a metal blade in your reciprocal saw, remove door and jamb. Then insert the new one shim, level and plumb then nail in place. replace case molding touch up and paint. Piece of cake.
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post #7 of 34 Old 07-14-2012, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If you go with a thicker door you might as well get a prehung door, it won't fit properly in your exiting jamb without removing and relocating the stops. to replace a pre-hung you remove the case molding on both sides slice around the perimeter of the jamb with a metal blade in your reciprocal saw, remove door and jamb. Then insert the new one shim, level and plumb then nail in place. replace case molding touch up and paint. Piece of cake.

Thanks a lot for the suggestion. I went to Home Depot and found that Prehung door is approximately costing around $270 and $110 for installation. They don't have any inside doors that are 1 3/4 inch thick solid door. They still wanted me to call them tomorrow and confirm with somebody else if outside door can be used as inside door.

I think current door is fiber glass door. It has lot of gap at the floor and some gap at the door opening end. I am hoping the new door will fix any light and sound. I guess my house like any house has two drywall sheet embedded with two wood studs.

I am not trying to make perfect sound proof home theater. I am trying to fix door as the most weak link. If the current door is like any other current wall, then it is waste of money. I am assuming door is the problem. Let me know if I am not right. Otherwise, I intend to spend to get new door.
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post #8 of 34 Old 07-14-2012, 08:28 PM
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I don't like the metal thresholds that normally come with prehung outside doors, Go to Lowe's and see if they can get the Masonite safe and sound in the 1 3/4 size. Keep in mind that once you get the door you need to add perimeter seals and an automatic door bottom. Just a FYI I can get a 1 3/4 solid core door from a local custom millwork shop for under $200. The HD price was a little stiff but then I don't have a clue what door they were recommending.
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post #9 of 34 Old 07-15-2012, 05:54 AM
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Talk to your local door shop. HD and Lowes are pretty clueless on anything that's not "by the book".

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post #10 of 34 Old 07-15-2012, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all replies. I will try to find local store for doors and ask for Solid 1 3/4 inch door with automatic bottom and permiter seals. I am reading AVS home theater book.

Here is the rating.

Standard hollow door : STC 15
Standard inside wall: STC 35
Solid door : STC 35.

Assuming my door is hollow door, it looks like this is weakest of all other parts of room enclosures. So, it would help to replace the door. The book is really nice.
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post #11 of 34 Old 07-15-2012, 05:57 PM
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Nothing about this is going to be easy for you. It may be hard to find a shop that will put on the perimeter seals and automatic door bottom as they need to be installed in the field after the door is installed. The door bottom typically needs to be mounted a certain distance from the hard threshold surface it will seal against. Sitting in the shop they won't know that dimension.
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post #12 of 34 Old 08-02-2012, 06:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I don't like the metal thresholds that normally come with prehung outside doors, Go to Lowe's and see if they can get the Masonite safe and sound in the 1 3/4 size. Keep in mind that once you get the door you need to add perimeter seals and an automatic door bottom. Just a FYI I can get a 1 3/4 solid core door from a local custom millwork shop for under $200. The HD price was a little stiff but then I don't have a clue what door they were recommending.

Hi Big, It seems Home depot has 1 3/4 solid interior door for sale $54. I was told it is special order. I want to know what is Masonite safe and sound. It seems there is brand masonite and don't know masonite safe. I will go to Lowes store today. I also try to search in google for custom mill shops?

For door stopper and perimiter stuff, do you have any recommendation for stores? Appreciate your help.
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post #13 of 34 Old 08-02-2012, 06:49 AM
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http://www.tapplumber.com/pdf/vendors/5/Palazzo_SNS_and_Molded_Panel_Interior_Doors_Catalog.pdf
Perimeter seals and automatic door bottoms from Soundproofingcompany.com, tell them I sent you.
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post #14 of 34 Old 08-02-2012, 06:50 AM
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I'm not sure what you can get locally for for the stops/seals. I ordered mine from Ted at the Soundproofing Company. They aren't cheap, and when you get them you'll realize why. I don't have them installed yet, but these things aren't the flimsy, floppy stops that you see at the big box stores. They are much larger than I thought they would be, and have no doubt they will be fantastic. I see Ted already posted in your thread, but here is the direct link to the stops on his site.

Door Stops
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post #15 of 34 Old 08-02-2012, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

http://www.tapplumber.com/pdf/vendors/5/Palazzo_SNS_and_Molded_Panel_Interior_Doors_Catalog.pdf
Perimeter seals and automatic door bottoms from Soundproofingcompany.com, tell them I sent you.

Thanks Big. I will tell them when I order. I quickly looked at the catalog you sent. It seems the doors are 1 3/8 solid core for Masonite safe and sound. Are these good enough instead 1 3/4? I will call tapplumber or will ask local stores if they can order as well.
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post #16 of 34 Old 08-02-2012, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

I'm not sure what you can get locally for for the stops/seals. I ordered mine from Ted at the Soundproofing Company. They aren't cheap, and when you get them you'll realize why. I don't have them installed yet, but these things aren't the flimsy, floppy stops that you see at the big box stores. They are much larger than I thought they would be, and have no doubt they will be fantastic. I see Ted already posted in your thread, but here is the direct link to the stops on his site.
Door Stops

Good to know. Thanks.
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post #17 of 34 Old 08-02-2012, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sukumar View Post

Thanks Big. I will tell them when I order. I quickly looked at the catalog you sent. It seems the doors are 1 3/8 solid core for Masonite safe and sound. Are these good enough instead 1 3/4? I will call tapplumber or will ask local stores if they can order as well.
The door is typically the weakest link in the soundproofing, so the more mass the better. I would go with the 1-3/4". I had better luck with the local lumber yards when I was in the door ordering phase. Lowes/HD in my area said they didn't carry Masonite products anymore and couldn't order them (might be a store by store thing though). I went with the 1-3/4" Masonite Safe 'n' Sound door ordered through one of the local lumber yards. It wasn't as pricey as I thought it would be, but I did just get the slab without the jambs so I'm sure that made a big difference.
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post #18 of 34 Old 08-02-2012, 07:27 PM
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They do carry Masonite. They just are not called Masonite. I just ordered doors from Lowes. The outer theater door is a 1-3/4" Palazzo and the inner door will be a 1-3/4" solid core door from Menards with green glue and MDF. Lowes sub-contracts the assembly of the door. In our area their first choice is Reliabuilt who buys the slabs from Masonite and assembles them.Even Lowes has the Palazzo on display and its called Palazzo. But for my 1-3/4" door they went through a different supplier to assemble the door frame, but it is still a Palazzo door slab. The vendor of the custom door was Badger something, something.

Palazzo Solid Stave

It is painful working with Lowes, but we got it done. I wanted to buy through the local small hardware store who specializes in doors and windows, but WAF thought Lowes would be cheaper (no quote to confirm). One employee at Lowes said the special order 1-3/4" door would cost over $100 more. No deal. But when we went to the store, the computer only said $70 more and we got a discount of $100 because we spent $1000 on doors for the basement, so it was a wash, and we ordered the door.

There used to be a lot of talk about Safe-n-Sound when it first came out. I think the consensus they were not so "sound" for our application at least. I could not test how heavy the door was, but I have no illusion of it being as heavy or as "sound proof" as my solid stave inner door slab (just $50 too)...just prettier. STC is listed in low 30s but that does not take into account low frequency performance.

Lowes also has full MDF doors too.
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post #19 of 34 Old 08-04-2012, 04:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRBoomer View Post

They do carry Masonite. They just are not called Masonite. I just ordered doors from Lowes. The outer theater door is a 1-3/4" Palazzo and the inner door will be a 1-3/4" solid core door from Menards with green glue and MDF. Lowes sub-contracts the assembly of the door. In our area their first choice is Reliabuilt who buys the slabs from Masonite and assembles them.Even Lowes has the Palazzo on display and its called Palazzo. But for my 1-3/4" door they went through a different supplier to assemble the door frame, but it is still a Palazzo door slab. The vendor of the custom door was Badger something, something.
Palazzo Solid Stave
It is painful working with Lowes, but we got it done. I wanted to buy through the local small hardware store who specializes in doors and windows, but WAF thought Lowes would be cheaper (no quote to confirm). One employee at Lowes said the special order 1-3/4" door would cost over $100 more. No deal. But when we went to the store, the computer only said $70 more and we got a discount of $100 because we spent $1000 on doors for the basement, so it was a wash, and we ordered the door.
There used to be a lot of talk about Safe-n-Sound when it first came out. I think the consensus they were not so "sound" for our application at least. I could not test how heavy the door was, but I have no illusion of it being as heavy or as "sound proof" as my solid stave inner door slab (just $50 too)...just prettier. STC is listed in low 30s but that does not take into account low frequency performance.
Lowes also has full MDF doors too.

Thanks for the post. If I want to buy one door which one (Palazzo or Menards) you recommend? What is exactly MDF doors?
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post #20 of 34 Old 08-04-2012, 03:43 PM
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MDF is Medium Density Fiberboard. It is one of the heaviest common materials available, and it is commonly used to make speaker cabinets. A 4'x8' 3/4" thick sheet weighs about 90 pounds - 15+ pounds heavier than plywood. It can be bought at all home stores. Lowes had doors made of MDF, so they would be quite heavy. Heavier than Safe-N-Sound. The weight is good for stopping bass. Ideally you could put another layer of MDF on with green glue in between to make a good attempt at trying to prevent sound from getting out. The next steps would be to have weather stripping or Zero International products to seal around the perimeter of the door.

My order of preference with sound attenuation being the primary driver:
  1. Solid stave door is cheapest, 1-3/4" thick and heavy (~$50) not pretty though, it is just flat wood veneer.
  2. MDF door looks better and can be custom made in many patterns. >$200. Lowes had some on display.
    I had some quotes from lumber yards (not Lowes) for over $800 so you have to do some shopping.
  3. Palazzo - looks great with raised molding just under $200 for 1-3/8". Need to custom order 1-3/4" and will not be as heavy as MDF or solid stave. <$300.

My design has communicating doors using #1 and #3.
  • Stave core inside door for me wink.gif
  • Palazzo outside door for WAF

.

Communicating doors (thanks to the Sound Proofing Company)


Employees at Home Depot and Lowes will give you the doe-in-the-headlights look if you ask for solid stave. They can probably order it, but I find they do not typically stock it anymore. My Menards stocks them. Try asking them if they have a solid wood door for entry to a garage. They are really heavy when you try to pick them up, so you will be able to tell the difference from other doors.
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post #21 of 34 Old 08-05-2012, 04:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRBoomer View Post

MDF is Medium Density Fiberboard. It is one of the heaviest common materials available, and it is commonly used to make speaker cabinets. A 4'x8' 3/4" thick sheet weighs about 90 pounds - 15+ pounds heavier than plywood. It can be bought at all home stores. Lowes had doors made of MDF, so they would be quite heavy. Heavier than Safe-N-Sound. The weight is good for stopping bass. Ideally you could put another layer of MDF on with green glue in between to make a good attempt at trying to prevent sound from getting out. The next steps would be to have weather stripping or Zero International products to seal around the perimeter of the door.
My order of preference with sound attenuation being the primary driver:
  1. Solid stave door is cheapest, 1-3/4" thick and heavy (~$50) not pretty though, it is just flat wood veneer.
  2. MDF door looks better and can be custom made in many patterns. >$200. Lowes had some on display.
    I had some quotes from lumber yards (not Lowes) for over $800 so you have to do some shopping.
  3. Palazzo - looks great with raised molding just under $200 for 1-3/8". Need to custom order 1-3/4" and will not be as heavy as MDF or solid stave. <$300.
My design has communicating doors using #1 and #3.
  • Stave core inside door for me wink.gif
  • Palazzo outside door for WAF
.
Communicating doors (thanks to the Sound Proofing Company)

Employees at Home Depot and Lowes will give you the doe-in-the-headlights look if you ask for solid stave. They can probably order it, but I find they do not typically stock it anymore. My Menards stocks them. Try asking them if they have a solid wood door for entry to a garage. They are really heavy when you try to pick them up, so you will be able to tell the difference from other doors.

Thank for the reply. I went to Lowses and Home depot today. I found Steve & sons solid core 1 3/4 inch pre hung door for $75. I guess may be this Solid Stave that you are referring to. They said installation is $120. I placed an order, however the order added $75 more for installation for second floor. I cancelled the order. It is too expensive to install. I will try to find if any handyman can install for less. The deal is until August 8th to get for $75.

Is there any performance difference between solid core vs Solid wood for STC? They don't have any masonite safe and sound of size 1 3/4. They only have 1 3/8.
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post #22 of 34 Old 08-07-2012, 12:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I am planning to order steve&sons 1 3/4 inch solid core door. Do I need to ask anything like what it is made up of. Basically, what I am asking is if it matters what solid core door contains. I heard some doors are made with steel as one of layer and not sure if it makes sense to have steel in the door for home theater.
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post #23 of 34 Old 08-07-2012, 12:53 PM
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You just want the heaviest slab. Might be stave core, MDF core, particleboard core or gypsum

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post #24 of 34 Old 08-07-2012, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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You just want the heaviest slab. Might be stave core, MDF core, particleboard core or gypsum

Thanks Ted. I will ask home depot for weight. Do you know approximately how heavy it should be? Looking for range. I want to buy this and add door bottom.
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post #25 of 34 Old 08-07-2012, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Ted. I will ask home depot for weight. Do you know approximately how heavy it should be? Looking for range. I want to buy this and add door bottom.
Called Steves door and they said they use particle board and weigh around 80 pounds. I am hoping that this is good enough to reduce sound. Appreciate any feedback.
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post #26 of 34 Old 08-08-2012, 09:48 AM
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I went with particle board as well in my room. Can't give you any results as I am still in the building phase but I believe it will be a good solid door. I think my 36" door weighed in at 92 lbs (not a slab door, has a molded design) for reference. The next step was a fire rated mineral core (gypsum) door but it had about a $100 premium on it. The mass only increased by about 10 lbs. I wasn't really keen on paying $400 per door so I settled for the particle board core.
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post #27 of 34 Old 09-03-2012, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I also got solid core particle door installed. Unfortunately, this is getting rubbed against frame. Since, it was still wet on that day, he is coming back on Wednesday. My friend also got it installed and got same problem that it is touching the frame while closing. Hopefully, he will fix it.

I got automatic door bottom from sound proofing but not peripherals. I will install automatic door bottom after fixing the door. Do you have any recommendation on peripherals that I can find easily in Home depot or Lowe's or any local hard ware stores? I live in Dallas. Appreciate any quick reply since handy man is coming on Wednesday
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post #28 of 34 Old 09-04-2012, 04:36 AM
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http://www.lowes.com/pd_104805-81-87981_0__?productId=3200767&Ntt=door+stop+with+weather+seal&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo=

You remove the stop that came with the door and install those. On the automatic door bottom, you will need a hard surface at the bottom so I hope you had a threshold installed. If the door rubbed right after instalation you have an very untalented handyman at your disposal.
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post #29 of 34 Old 09-05-2012, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

http://www.lowes.com/pd_104805-81-87981_0__?productId=3200767&Ntt=door+stop+with+weather+seal&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo=
You remove the stop that came with the door and install those. On the automatic door bottom, you will need a hard surface at the bottom so I hope you had a threshold installed. If the door rubbed right after installation you have an very untalented handyman at your disposal.

Thanks Bigmouth for quick reply. I did not know anything about threshold. The instructions on automatic door bottom also does not mention it. I have not yet installed automatic door bottom, but only door. Appreciate if you can share what is exactly thresh hold that I can ask in Home depot or Lowes. Do I need to fix it to the floor? I have carpet on the floor.


I am not able to find the compression weather strip in Home depot. I will go to Lowes store if they have them in store.The handy man is experienced more than 15 years. I am also surprised why it is touching. He is coming on Saturday to fix it. Thanks again for all your help.
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post #30 of 34 Old 09-05-2012, 07:47 AM
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The auto door bottom needs to engage to a smooth hard flooring. You don't need a threshold.

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