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post #241 of 264 Old 02-15-2015, 06:15 PM - Thread Starter
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The soffit was wider than the duct so there was room for a 3 inch recessed can light.
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post #242 of 264 Old 02-16-2015, 05:41 AM
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BIGmouthinDC - Summer Fun, Just 10 minutes down the Parkway

Thanks. You don't happen to recall how wide. I'm struggling with dimensions, want to ensure the soffits are proportional to the room.

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post #243 of 264 Old 02-16-2015, 01:08 PM
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Green Glue backer boxes




What board/material did you put inside the box itself? I am building boxes to place my speakers in and am trying to figure out what I should surround the speakers with, should I do something like this or just line some insulation between the speaker and the MDF?
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post #244 of 264 Old 02-16-2015, 01:17 PM
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Looks like 1/4" Hardi-backer. It's used as a substrate for tile in wet locations. Using this to line the boxes with GG between it and the MDF adds mass and damping that you don't get with just insulation.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #245 of 264 Old 02-16-2015, 02:07 PM
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BIG, or anyone else...what is used for the feet of the bar stools/chairs in a set up like this? Metal coasters, caster wheels? I've seen wheels chew up carpet (granted it was super cheap berber). I am thinking of doing my bar this way and was curious as to what has/hasn't worked for others.

Thanks again mucho.
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post #246 of 264 Old 04-01-2015, 08:18 AM
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Quote:Originally Posted by tbraden32 

Why the 2x10 in center?


2x12s would have been a waste of money. Or did you think I should go smaller? Also if we decide to cut some holes in the top and make it a broad band bass trap we can.
How did you decide to make a 12" riser? I have a similar sized room with only 7'4" ceilings. A 12" riser will make the standing area a little tight, no? also, what is a bass trap and why would one need this? Thanks in advance
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post #247 of 264 Old 04-01-2015, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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A large 16:9 screen was planned and with obstructions it would be a little low so we did 12 inch riser. Bass traps are all about trying to tame room resonances that result in uneven bass response in the room.
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post #248 of 264 Old 04-01-2015, 09:44 AM
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One more question...what did u put under the riser? Is that carpet padding? Any particular reason why one would need to do this?
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post #249 of 264 Old 04-01-2015, 10:02 AM
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One more question...what did u put under the riser? Is that carpet padding? Any particular reason why one would need to do this?
I think most people put some kind of pad underneath to prevent vibrations and noises from the wood on the concrete mostly. I used something like MLV, about 1/8" thick. Its just like a rubber type pad.
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post #250 of 264 Old 04-01-2015, 02:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I usually use roofing felt paper when building on concrete to keep the wood out of contact with the concrete. The gold standard is Serenity mat (rubber pad) on the floor covered with a floating subfloor layer. Build the stage and riser on that.
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post #251 of 264 Old 04-02-2015, 08:37 AM
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I think most people put some kind of pad underneath to prevent vibrations and noises from the wood on the concrete mostly. I used something like MLV, about 1/8" thick. Its just like a rubber type pad.
Not advised. Carpet padding compresses over time and would provide little-to-no absorption of vibration energy. As BIG says, Serenity Mat or similar rubber flooring underlayment is one of the few common construction materials rated for that load which will maintain its effectiveness of absorbing vibration energy.
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post #252 of 264 Old 04-02-2015, 08:38 AM
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BIG - Any plans for a version 3 to add Atmos / DTS-X to your theater?
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post #253 of 264 Old 04-02-2015, 08:54 AM
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Is Serenity matt much the same as rubber crumb underlay?

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Who says Cameron is "right" and why do we care about him so much - lol!

I trust Gary Lightfoot more than James Cameron.
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post #254 of 264 Old 04-02-2015, 10:04 AM
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Not advised. Carpet padding compresses over time and would provide little-to-no absorption of vibration energy. As BIG says, Serenity Mat or similar rubber flooring underlayment is one of the few common construction materials rated for that load which will maintain its effectiveness of absorbing vibration energy.
I was mistaken, my mat is a ruber mat made up of some recycled rubber, like serenity mat.
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post #255 of 264 Old 04-02-2015, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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BIG - Any plans for a version 3 to add Atmos / DTS-X to your theater?
As soon as I leave a pair of socks at an Atmos demo. Hasn't happened yet and I've heard 6 or so.
Metric, J_P_A and BllDo like this.
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post #256 of 264 Old 04-03-2015, 07:05 AM
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I describe the effect as a definite enhancement. To me, the value is in the subtlety of recreating a 360 degree sound field vs. having noticeable ceiling effects just for the sake of having noticeable ceiling effects. I thought the comparison at the 2014 CEDIA Dolby demo we were both at was especially telling of the possibilities of the technology. In every instance either Atmos or Atmos-enabled sounded better than the same thing playing through standard 7.1, including music.

But to each his own. I was just curious if you had it on your radar.
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post #257 of 264 Old 04-04-2015, 02:50 PM
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I describe the effect as a definite enhancement. To me, the value is in the subtlety of recreating a 360 degree sound field vs. having noticeable ceiling effects just for the sake of having noticeable ceiling effects. I thought the comparison at the 2014 CEDIA Dolby demo we were both at was especially telling of the possibilities of the technology. In every instance either Atmos or Atmos-enabled sounded better than the same thing playing through standard 7.1, including music.

But to each his own. I was just curious if you had it on your radar.
You have to watch when you do those tests. Simple things such as having the Atmos version be louder than the 7.1 version could mean the Atmos version will sound better. They could remix the Atmos version and make it sound better. It's sort of like listen to Bose 5.1 surround in the store, then getting it home and realizing it doesn't sound the same in an actual room.

Personally, I'd rather have fewer, better quality speakers than a lot of speakers of poorer quality to create the Atmos effect.

Bob
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post #258 of 264 Old 04-05-2015, 06:37 PM
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Dude your home theater is great. I love how you designed it. I will be using a lot of your ideas. ha
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post #259 of 264 Old 04-05-2015, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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this isn't my theater, refer to links in my signature
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post #260 of 264 Old 04-06-2015, 07:35 AM
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You have to watch when you do those tests. Simple things such as having the Atmos version be louder than the 7.1 version could mean the Atmos version will sound better. They could remix the Atmos version and make it sound better. It's sort of like listen to Bose 5.1 surround in the store, then getting it home and realizing it doesn't sound the same in an actual room.

Personally, I'd rather have fewer, better quality speakers than a lot of speakers of poorer quality to create the Atmos effect.
Dolby was careful about this and had presets to balance the overall volume when switching between the different processing. They were very careful to create a level playing field. I never suspected any foul play to make the Atmos sound better or more vibrant than the others.
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post #261 of 264 Old Today, 05:35 AM
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Hey Big did you add some extenders to the backer boxes and screw them onto the hat channel for the lights?
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post #262 of 264 Old Today, 05:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I built the box so that it would be flush with the back of the drywall. Two long arms extend out from the sides of the box and rest on the top of the channel. After the drywall is up I cut the hole for a remodel style can light.
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post #263 of 264 Old Today, 03:28 PM
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Just curious since I've seen a few posts out recently about extending boxes...is another possible solution to screw a plastic box into a vertical 2x2-ish block and then screw the block into the stud at a point that leaves the box protruding at the appropriate length? Just thinking out loud, with a bunch of small blocks of scrap wood...
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post #264 of 264 Unread Today, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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the best solution is not to use any stud based outlets, mount them all inside the theater.

on the side of columns
surface mounted behind the screen wall
in the riser and stage

I've done that several times. just pass the wire through the drywall via a small hole and caulk the hole.
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