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post #361 of 482 Old 09-29-2014, 11:40 AM
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Georga to. "oh that was your tape measure"
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post #362 of 482 Old 10-02-2014, 09:06 PM
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Just read your whole thread. Nicely done. I kept thinking, "I wonder if he's done yet." Keep up the good work! Excited to see how it ends up.
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post #363 of 482 Old 10-23-2014, 06:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, the remainder of the basement -- some 800 sq feet is now boarded, taped, and painted! This is good news as it means I can get back to the theatre.

Up this weekend -- prepping the trim + columns for paint and painting the ceiling "Mouse Ears" flat black. I'm going to try and pick up some Floetrol tomorrow, but am wondering if anyone has any tips/tricks besides using it to help produce a nice finish on the ceiling. I'm wondering about brushing in the corners -- my normal routing is to brush and then almost immediately follow it with a 4" roller.

Any tips re:

1. Roller covers?

2. Techniques for covering a large space while minimizing marks

3. Anything else ?

The Big Bay Home Theater Build Thread
My personal theater build on Kempenfelt Bay, Barrie Ontario Canada
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post #364 of 482 Old 10-23-2014, 07:11 AM
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Just read some painting tips from the a pro.

Use a long nap roller, I always used 3/8, he said longer.

Cut in a section and then roll that section while the cut is wet,

My tip is don't expect to get it done in one coat and use a really strong work light to be sure you aren't leaving ridges. When painting ceilings put a pole on the roller and WEAR GLASSES. Most broom handles will fit in a roller. If you are covering the walls with fabric I never bother cutting in I just use a roller an get it into the corner and a little on the wall. I often use a small cigar roller for tight corners.
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post #365 of 482 Old 10-23-2014, 07:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Jeff, that sounds about right to me

I'm going to paint my screen goal posts too -- I suppose I should get my ass in gear and prime them before the paint...


Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post
Just read some painting tips from the a pro.

Use a long nap roller, I always used 3/8, he said longer.

Cut in a section and then roll that section while the cut is wet,

My tip is don't expect to get it done in one coat and use a really strong work light to be sure you aren't leaving ridges. When painting ceilings put a pole on the roller and WEAR GLASSES. Most broom handles will fit in a roller.

The Big Bay Home Theater Build Thread
My personal theater build on Kempenfelt Bay, Barrie Ontario Canada
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post #366 of 482 Old 10-23-2014, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm also going to be finalizing the position of the stiles that make up the wainscotting. As a reminder, I'm going for a concealed door -- basically the trim and the upper fabric wall will continue right over the door. This leaves me with one question though (and I think I know the answer, but would like a few more opinions): Should I mimic the opposite wall so that everything is uniform even though the spacing would mean that the position of the stiles would be sort of odd-ball in relation to the door?

Here's a quick mockup:

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My personal theater build on Kempenfelt Bay, Barrie Ontario Canada
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post #367 of 482 Old 10-24-2014, 12:44 PM
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Love the work you have done thus far, very clean and tasteful.

I'm taking many notes for my build, as we have the exact room dimensions.
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post #368 of 482 Old 10-24-2014, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post
Here's the new proposed layout which flips the orientation of the theatre. Key specs are:

Width (after double 5/8" drywall): 13' 8 1/4"
Length (after double 5/8" drywall): 20' 9 1/2"
Distance between screen and the front row seating position: 11' 9"
Riser depth: 6' 6"

Right now, I'm hoping I can keep the projector located on a shelf in the adjoining equipment room. This means a throw of about 19 feet.







I think that is the better plan! And some benefits to this plan.


You get a dedicated equipment room that keeps all your equipment in one area, it keeps sound levels down from your gear and also gives it a cleaner look to rest of the theater room.


and am enjoying your home theater build it looks perfect





Theo's system: Onkyo Receiver TX-NR807 upgrading to TX-NR3030 Date expected 10/12/14
Epson Projector TW4500 with a 110" 16.9 Screen upgrading to Pro Cinema LS10000 Date expected 10/06/15
Klipsch KF-28 5.1 speaker system upgrading to 7.2.4 speaker system Date expected 10/12/14
Panasonic 3D BluRay Player DMP-BDT300 and Panasonic HDD Recorder DMR-HW220

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post #369 of 482 Old 10-25-2014, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Well... full 10 hour day in the theatre and not a tremendous amount to show for it... but it sets me up in a good spot for tomorrow

I finished all of the wainscotting and then started the prep (filled holes, sanding). In the morning, I'll caulk everything and then it'll be ready for priming/painting.

Here's how the trim looks:







And some supplies for tomorrow:



I'm thinking I may paint the ceiling before the trim/columns, but we'll see

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My personal theater build on Kempenfelt Bay, Barrie Ontario Canada
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post #370 of 482 Old 10-26-2014, 05:57 AM
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Everything is looking great!

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post #371 of 482 Old 10-26-2014, 03:34 PM
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You may have covered this but what are the cutouts for at the base of the columns, additional speakers ?
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post #372 of 482 Old 10-26-2014, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triplejs15 View Post
You may have covered this but what are the cutouts for at the base of the columns, additional speakers ?
In the rear columns, I may try some small custom subs -- but mostly the others will just be filled with insulation I think. Everything gets covered with fabric panels of course.

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post #373 of 482 Old 10-26-2014, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, it's starting to look like a theater...

2 coats of "Mouse Ears" Flat black. Took 1.5 gallons to cover the ceiling and soffits. I used 8 oz. of Floetrol per gallon and it seemed to help a lot. I didn't bother cutting in with a brush, instead used a little 4" foam roller. Worked great, was super fast and no brush strokes





She's flat alright. It really is amazing how the ceiling and soffits vanish in the room now. When I first started putting it on, I felt the room closing in on me... but now that everything is dry, the ceiling disappears, almost making it feel more spacious.



This week, I'll get a start on the trim work. Then some fabric panels
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post #374 of 482 Old 10-27-2014, 06:39 AM - Thread Starter
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So tonight, I'm going to apply the primer/sealer to the trim - question is, should I just apply it to the unprimed MDF or should I go over everything again to get the nail holes etc? I'm using the Zinsser BIN stuff if that makes any difference.

Also, should I be applying the caulk before or after the sealer?

The Big Bay Home Theater Build Thread
My personal theater build on Kempenfelt Bay, Barrie Ontario Canada

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post #375 of 482 Old 10-27-2014, 08:42 AM
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This looks amazing.
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post #376 of 482 Old 10-27-2014, 06:39 PM
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Awesome job on your HT so far, memmo! You have the neatest HT construction I've ever seen - you'd have a heart attack if you saw mine...

Curious how the wainscoting on your door turned out? And did you go with the 4 x 6" hinges?

Keep up the great work.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

The Schmidt Haus Theater - WIP (or not) since 2010
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post #377 of 482 Old 10-27-2014, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schmidtwi View Post
Awesome job on your HT so far, memmo! You have the neatest HT construction I've ever seen - you'd have a heart attack if you saw mine...

Curious how the wainscoting on your door turned out? And did you go with the 4 x 6" hinges?

Keep up the great work.
I'm replacing the door this weekend and will add the trim on. I think, it'll go smoothly and look great. Crossing my fingers. As for the hinges, yes, they are heavy duty ball-bearing hinges (4x6) made by Stanley. They seem more then up for the challenge.

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post #378 of 482 Old 10-28-2014, 06:24 AM
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Loving the clean lines on your wainscoting. This room is gonna be great.
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post #379 of 482 Old 10-28-2014, 06:54 AM
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Room looking good!

-

"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #380 of 482 Old 10-28-2014, 07:05 AM
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It is coming together great.
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post #381 of 482 Old 10-28-2014, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys...

I have to keep telling myself that I shouldn't judge the room with the 1000w work lights on as any flaws are magnified. I'm at the stage of the build where my standards are seemingly drifting away from "perfection" to "good enough". Anyone else go through this? lol

For instance, the ceiling with normal room lighting looks stunning -- perfectly black, no marks etc. When I turn on the big works lights however, there are some things I normally wouldn't live with --- but I keep telling myself, I'll never see this... when am I going to have 1000w work lights pointed up at the ceiling.

Hope I'm not going crazy hah.

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post #382 of 482 Old 10-28-2014, 07:42 AM
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post #383 of 482 Old 10-28-2014, 09:03 AM
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I doubt any ceiling will look great under that kind of light.
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post #384 of 482 Old 10-28-2014, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Good advice! I decided to take the night off, but tomorrow I'll start with priming the trim work. Seems like a tedious job, but hopefully it goes well.

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post #385 of 482 Old 10-29-2014, 04:04 AM
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Make sure you have plenty of ventilation with the BIN. I used a $50 HVLP sprayer and waterbourne finishes when I did mine. It came out great; I've pretty much sworn off using anything but water based.

I've used foam rollers with bin and it came out good.

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post #386 of 482 Old 10-29-2014, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
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The Big Bay Home Theatre

Thanks Tim,

I would have purchased a sprayer for this but decided against one since I've never used one before. I figured as a first timer, the results wouldn't be as good. I am planning on foam rollers for both the BIN and the latex finish coats.

After reading how potent the BIN is I picked up a reapirator. Hope it works well.

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post #387 of 482 Old 10-29-2014, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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5 hours in the theatre tonight.. priming the trim and columns and the only word I can use to describe it is tedious.

I think I screwed up a bit too... I started out by shaking the can of Zinnser BIN as per the directions. Having never really used an oil/alcohol product before, I didn't really know what to expect other than it would be a lot thinner. I started to apply it... got half way around the back of the room and got to about 60% of the gallon when I realized the consistency was changing a bit. I got a stir stick and swished it around and sure enough, it got a bit thicker. It covered much better from there on in.

So.. two questions:

1. Should I go back and prime again or will 2 coats of Black paint cover without issues? You can see the pics below.

2. Secondly, at one point, one of my foam rollers started to disintegrate, leaving tiny chunks of foam in the primer. I decided to let it dry and try sanding. Well.. the sanded part is like a sheet of glass -- super smooth. Everything else feels rough in comparison. Is that to be expected? I wasn't anticipating sanding after the primer, but if I can get it all like that one area (super smooth), I'll do it, cuz it feels awesome.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Back of the theatre where the primer went on thinner:


Front of the theatre where it covered more evenly:
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post #388 of 482 Old 10-30-2014, 03:15 AM
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I don't think you'll have to go back and do the first part again. You applied mostly shellac at that point, which is what seals the wood and keeps the finish coats from soaking in. I think the finish coats will cover fine.

You should sand between all coats. When I do it, sanding the primer is just a quick ordeal with a sanding sponge. I don't get super-picky until the last coat.

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post #389 of 482 Old 10-30-2014, 03:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Great! Wasn't looking forward to another coat. The BIN seems to sand nice so that'll be fine. Are you saying you sand also after the first coat of paint ? I've never had good luck painting latex.

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post #390 of 482 Old 10-30-2014, 03:59 AM
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Yes, I sand after every coat. On the walls/ceiling I just use a drywall sanding screen on a pole. On trim and wainscot I use a sanding sponge. If using a typical latex paint you're not trying to sand it super smooth, just knocking off the crud that inevitably gets stuck in the paint.

When you get into specialty finishes (eg clears) you also try to smooth/level it out.

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