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post #91 of 368 Old 02-04-2013, 06:39 AM
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Off the top of my head I can't think of any code issues of putting the outlet in a box. If you were thinking about the need to secure the outlet to the stud, in the case of old work boxes that need apparently doesn't exist. I would go for the 4 sided. You can seal it up good on the bench rather than on your knees. If you get really fancy you could notch one front edge so the flange sits perfectly flush with the rest of the box edge. (OCD compliant)

Actually you could add blocking and the flange could float in the middle of the box and not overlap an edge. As a construction note, attach the oultet and blocking to one of the sides before assembling the box.

You would need a method of fishing the wires because once assembled it will be difficult.
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post #92 of 368 Old 02-04-2013, 06:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Something like this, ya?


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post #93 of 368 Old 02-04-2013, 08:51 AM
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Should work. So would putty pads.
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post #94 of 368 Old 02-06-2013, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Trying to decide which is the best way to approach the lighting.

I'd like 6 zones:

Side/Rear recessed cans (in soffits)
Stage recessed cans (in soffit)
Sconces
Up-lighting behind screen
Rope lighting
Step/Riser lighting

Since I already have Insteon stuff in the rest of the house, I'd like to continue with it.

I'd like to avoid having a 6-gang or two 3-gang boxes in the wall near the theater door, so I'm thinking about simply using a double gang box with one side being a regular insteon dimmer (to control the side/rear recessed cans zone) and then a Keypad (Keypadlinc) for physical control of the remainder of the zones.

Since each zone requires its own Insteon device (for control), I would then rely on their Inlinelinc product. I'd mount 4 of them directly below the electrical panel in the equipment room (which is adjacent to the theater) and then run wire from each of these junction boes to the lights in the theater.

This would:

Give me 6 unique/addressable zones
Limit the number of switches I need in the theater
Allow for physical control of all zones from the keypad in the theater
Allow for remote control via Irule and my existing Insteon controller.

Does this make sense? Am i missing anything?

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post #95 of 368 Old 02-08-2013, 07:12 AM
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If I understand what you're describing correctly, it sounds like some of the Lutron installs I've seen. Every circuit has a switch, so they pick a closet and run all the lights back to that (picture a closet that has 40 or 50 light switches on the wall). Then they put the keypads, diimmers, etc. near the doors or locations they want to control. This lets them control multiple zones without having a switch for each one at the keypad location. I think their new systems may do away with this, but there is a precedence for what you want to do at least.

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post #96 of 368 Old 02-08-2013, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Yah, that's how this essentially works. Idea being to keep the wall as clutter free as possible while still having zones that are individually controllable.

Now.. moving on to finalizing my hvac plan.

Planning on 2 6" supplies entering the theater from my existing hvac system. Couple of dead-vents to exhaust the room into another portion of the basement. Dedicated mini-split for cooling.

All pretty straight-forward thus far. Only thing I'm struggling with is a very basic zone control system. My house isn't currently zoned, but I would like to add 2 motorized dampers to the two 6" supplies entering the theater. This way, in certain months when the temp is warm in the theater but the rest of the house calls for heat, I'd like the dampers to close until the heat cycle on the furnace is done.

This means I need a t-stat in the theater, but I think it also means I need a basic 2-zone hvac controller? I noticed smart home sells a seemingly well reviewed 2-zone hvac controller from RCS for $169. Is this (or something similar) what I'd need to make this work? Is wiring for this functionality pretty straight-forward?

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post #97 of 368 Old 02-08-2013, 10:00 AM
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I have the Aprilaire zone control panel. You may want to look at the 6202. It will be simple to set the dampers to close if you use motorized dampers. There's a switch on the damper that reverse the direction. You can also do it via wiring at the panel.

If the rest of the house was calling for cooling, why not dump some of that in the theater? Or are you going to rely exclusively on the mini-split for that? Certainly would be a challenge with the zone control panel to make that work.. but who doesn't like a challenge? biggrin.gif

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post #98 of 368 Old 02-08-2013, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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When the house is calling for cooling, I'll absolutely leave the dampers open. I'm only thinking that when its already warm in the theater with guests etc, that if the rest of the house is calling for heat, it would be nice to close the dampers just during the heating cycle, and then open back up when its done a few minutes later.

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post #99 of 368 Old 02-12-2013, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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With HVAC now sorted for the most part, I've shifted focus to my lighting plan.

5 zones:
  • Six 4" recessed cans in ceiling (with backer boxes)
  • Three 4" recessed cans for screen wash
  • LED Rope lighting in cornice molding
  • Up-lighting to showcase speakers behind AT screen (I've always thought this was neat)
  • Riser step lights

To keep everything tidy in the theater, I've decided to have a single gang box with an Insteon Keypad. It, combined with some Insteon In-LineLinc dimmers will give me full physical/remote control over all zones. In order to keep things neat, I'll install the In-LineLinc dimmers directly beside the electrical panel in my equipment room. Keeps them out of the theater and allows me to run wire directly from the panel area to each zone/set of lights.

Thoughts?


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post #100 of 368 Old 02-13-2013, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Playing around with Sketchup this evening has raised a few questions regarding rope lighting in crown molding..

1. In order to maintain scale (and to fit above doorway etc), I think a small crown is in order. The one in the drawing is 3". Am I likely to get a decent wash on the ceiling using 3" crown?

2. Does it make sense aesthetically for the rope lighting to follow the contour of my columns? I haven't seen this done, but not sure of any reasonable alternatives?

3. How would I attach the crown to the fabric panels on the wall. I'm assuming it make sense for the panels to go right to the ceiling -- but not sure how to properly attach the crown?

4. Any suggestions for an even smaller molding to finish off where the wall meets the ceiling?


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post #101 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 02:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Some progress this past week. I had the equipment room walls spray foamed using a closed cell product. The stuff is fantastic -- goes on super quick, seals every little crack. I wish I could use the stuff for the exterior foundation walls in the theater too, but alas, folks smarter than I say to stick with batt. Who am I to argue!


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post #102 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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And we have backer boxes!

Boxes assembled and the cement board cut:



The obligatory Green Glue shots:





Silenseal!



Et Voila:


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post #103 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

Some progress this past week. I had the equipment room walls spray foamed using a closed cell product. The stuff is fantastic -- goes on super quick, seals every little crack. I wish I could use the stuff for the exterior foundation walls in the theater too, but alas, folks smarter than I say to stick with batt. Who am I to argue!

Oh boy, here we go smile.gif

What part of the country are you in? Keep in mind that the batt insulation recommendation is based on sound proofing alone. You still need to consider moisture/vapor depending on your region.

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post #104 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Oh boy, here we go smile.gif

What part of the country are you in? Keep in mind that the batt insulation recommendation is based on sound proofing alone. You still need to consider moisture/vapor depending on your region.

I'm in Central Ontario, so ya, vapor barrier will be very much needed for the batted walls. I'm planning on using 6mil poly. If I've misunderstood the recommendations for using batted insulation for acoustic purposes, I'd be happy to have the spray foam guy back to do the remaining 2 walls!

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post #105 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 02:52 PM
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Check! Just wanted to make sure you'd considered it.

Back to regularly scheduled programing smile.gif

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post #106 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 04:17 PM
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I would ask the spray foam guy about applying it in the theater. Yeah, you want the batt in there for sound, but having the foam directly applied to the foundation sounds like a Good Thing.

There is probably a minimum thickness he has to apply to prevent moisture from condensing on the foam inside the wall. I would think you would want the foam without a vapor barrier such as poly on the studs. That would give you two vapor barriers, which would trap moisture.

The spray foam guy is probably the most knowledgeable on how to do it properly in your area. I think the trick is to have more R-value in the foam than you do in the batt, but I'm not sure about that.

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post #107 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 04:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I would ask the spray foam guy about applying it in the theater. Yeah, you want the batt in there for sound, but having the foam directly applied to the foundation sounds like a Good Thing.

There is probably a minimum thickness he has to apply to prevent moisture from condensing on the foam inside the wall. I would think you would want the foam without a vapor barrier such as poly on the studs. That would give you two vapor barriers, which would trap moisture.

The spray foam guy is probably the most knowledgeable on how to do it properly in your area. I think the trick is to have more R-value in the foam than you do in the batt, but I'm not sure about that.

Tim

Yah, with this closed cell product, its about R6.5 per inch and code says anything more than 2" and you don't need a vapor barrier. It really is a lot more convenient not having to use the poly barrier and cut out around boxes etc. --- I was just told that it acoustically doesn't perform as well since its so dense. If It turns out this is incorrect, I'd spend a few hundred bucks more and do the 2 remaining walls.

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post #108 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 05:16 PM
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How far is your framed wall from the foundation? Are you using clips and channel (sorry, my threads are running together biggrin.gif ).

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post #109 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 05:32 PM - Thread Starter
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1" from the foundation for the outside walls. I'm not using clips channel on the exterior walls, and I'm a doing double wall on the inside. Only place I'm using clips/channel is on the ceiling.

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post #110 of 368 Old 02-17-2013, 05:41 PM
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Ah. If you could afford to lose the space, you could do another staggered wall and add the foam and the batts. You would just have to make sure the inside wall doesn't touch the foam.

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post #111 of 368 Old 02-18-2013, 04:31 AM
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With the studs being an inch off the wall the batt would be compressed.

I guess you have a choice: sacrifice some energy efficiency to get better sound isolation, or get better sound isolation by sacrificing energy efficiency. I don't know that compressing the batt an inch would be a huge ordeal. You could peel an inch off the back of a fiberglass batt if you felt so inclined.

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post #112 of 368 Old 02-18-2013, 06:35 AM
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I was thinking that the staggered stud wall could be adjusted to give adequate depth for the batts. Assuming the foam guy can keep a consistent 2" application (I know, that's a stretch biggrin.gif ), then you could offset you staggered stud wall by 1" and that would leave the standard 3-1/2" cavity for insulation. All that said, it would be adding a lot of effort just to get to add the spray foam.

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post #113 of 368 Old 02-20-2013, 05:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Got most of my low voltage wiring run tonight. Just the Cat6 and HDMI runs to the projector and the RG6 runs to the stage and the riser for the subs are left to do.

About half of the cables are for a distributed a/v system for the rest of the house.


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post #114 of 368 Old 02-25-2013, 05:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Got started on electrical this weekend and quickly realized I needed to flesh my plan a bit more. I spent some time last night coming up with this elevation. Any thoughts?

Based on the position of the joists in the ceiling and some existing obstructions, I'm limited to where I can place the recessed cans. Right now, I have 3 rows of cans, each 5 joist spaces apart.

Since I've decided to loose the soffits (due to limited ceiling height), I thought it might be nice to have some sconces on the wall for a wash effect. Again, their position is somewhat limited.

Some other notes:

Screen: 130" w 2:35 screen (130x55"). About 24 inches off the ground. This leaves me enough room above to stick some lowered crown molding for the rope lights.
Throw: The projector will straddle the rear wall which is shared with my equipment room. At this distance, the throw on the projector is about 17'



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post #115 of 368 Old 03-03-2013, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the clips + channel installed on the ceiling.



I found a template made things easier when it came to installing the backer boxes for my lighting at the right height.



Next up: finish wiring and then make some "duct mufflers"

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post #116 of 368 Old 03-03-2013, 01:31 PM
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Nice job with the template.

Are you going to insulate the ceiling??

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post #117 of 368 Old 03-03-2013, 05:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Sure am, just after I get the electrical done and inspected.

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post #118 of 368 Old 03-13-2013, 05:28 PM
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Any progress? Electric done? Inspected?

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post #119 of 368 Old 03-13-2013, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for checking in!

Got sidetracked with work this week so I haven't made as much progress as I'd like.

I'm taking Friday off to finish all the electrical stuff and hopefully get a start on the joist mufflers for my hvac system. I managed to pickup a roll of Linacoustic on Tuesday which I'm looking forward to using.

Stay tuned for pics this weekend smile.gif

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post #120 of 368 Old 03-16-2013, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Managed to get all the electrical run today... just have to connect the sub panel to the main panel and install 3 Insteon Inline-Linc dimmers in the surface mount boxes below the panel.


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