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post #121 of 493 Old 03-18-2013, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memmo View Post

Managed to get all the electrical run today... just have to connect the sub panel to the main panel and install 3 Insteon Inline-Linc dimmers in the surface mount boxes below the panel.


WOW! I really like how cleanly ran and organized that box is. it drives me crazy when panels just have a spaghetti mess coming in there. Good Work!
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post #122 of 493 Old 08-10-2013, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm back baby!

After a hiatus from the theater build (changed jobs, summer vacations etc), I'm happy to be back and at it. I'm just about ready for drywall, but I have to take care of a few hvac related things first.

First thing is some return panning for the living room directly above the theater. I'd like to rip it out, tack a few 2x2's up in there and then just use some 5/8 drywall + acoustical sealant to form the panning. The way I look at it, the rest of the house uses drywall for its return "boxes" and 5/8+ caulk will make a better seal and should help reduce some noise transfer.

Anyone see a problem with this?


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post #123 of 493 Old 08-10-2013, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Also forgot to mention that first part of the electrical inspection went great. After I told him what I was up to, he was cool that almost all of the electrical wire was dangling on the studs (ready to poke through double drywall). Guy was more interested in chatting with me about how he could use the Insteon stuff in his house ha!

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post #124 of 493 Old 08-21-2013, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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So now that I have the hvac plan sorted out (hvac tech coming on Monday to do the installs), my focus shifts to a couple odds and ends before closing the room up smile.gif

First is, I have 2 windows on the left theater wall that I plan to cover up. I framed around them as if I was going to finish them, but the plan has always been to cover right over them.

I've read people using Linacoustic (black side out as a means to get a reasonable aesthetic from the exterior - is this still an acceptable method? How about insulation - would I simply install pink stuff in the framed window opening, just like an any stud cavity? Would I then install vapour barrier directly over it?

I'm wondering about moisture/condensation issues?

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post #125 of 493 Old 08-27-2013, 03:22 PM
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5 days.. what's going on??

I would not put any additional vapor barrier over the window. The vapor barrier on the studs should be fine. Putting it on the window would probably be asking for trouble. Liacoustic would work if you have it.. Black landscape fabric.. Paint the back of the glass black (or white). THen stuff with pink fluffy.

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post #126 of 493 Old 08-28-2013, 03:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Been swamped with the FTJ this week. HVAC is happening tomorrow which I'm pumped about. Once thats done, a tad more framing for the rest of the basement and then its time for OSB.

Should I be nervous not testing the electrical before I close it up? smile.gif Since all the receptacles are going to be within columns inside the "aquarium", I just left the wire hanging ready to pull through a small hole in the drywall.

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post #127 of 493 Old 08-29-2013, 06:00 PM
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I wouldn't worry about testing the electrical. If it's installed properly there shouldn't be any issues.

How did the HVAC go?

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post #128 of 493 Old 08-29-2013, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for checking in Tim.. really keeps me motivated.

Unfortunately today is a day I wish I could forget.

I had an HVAC contractor over last week to quote on the job. He seemed awesome. Knew exactly what I wanted and why etc etc.

Fast forward to today -- he gets here, we recap and then I head upstairs for a meeting (I work from home -- thanks Skype!).

The first task was to replace the metal panning for a return with thermopan and insulate the joist space. He did a great job on this and it really does quiet down the return grills on the main floor!

The second task was to move one of the main trunks over 5-6' feet so that I can have a full height entrance to the theater.

When I came down from my meeting, I found 3 of the branch lines stacked vertically running underneath the joists in the unfinished room next to the theater. He said it was to minimize 90's, but it was the most frankenstein setup I have ever seen. Imagine three 6" ducts stacked vertically supported by a single piece of all-round (in a u-shape up to the joist). I told him to stop and that I would think of a better solution myself. So in 30c heat, I hacked together a piece of flex to bring some A/C to the bedroom. Left the other 2 lines unhooked for the time-being.

He also forgot to bring some of the supplies needed to rough-in the line set for the split so we skipped that entirely. He also didn't bring the 8" flex I ordered with him. I was so frustrated - paid him for a few hours as to not cause a scene and thought to myself - "If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself".

I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend frown.gif

Things get better right? lol

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post #129 of 493 Old 08-30-2013, 04:25 AM
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Unfortunate that you weren't able to find somebody who could install thing the way you instructed them to. "If you want something done right..." I do agree. I installed my entire HVAC system. In my case it was I couldn't justify the expense of hiring somebody. However, I am very satisfied with my install smile.gif I'm sure you will be, too.

Is he going to drop off the stuff you ordered, or are you back to the drawing board? I'm pretty sure you can get 8" flex from home depot.

Tim
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post #130 of 493 Old 08-30-2013, 07:32 AM
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Just read the entire post from start to finsh. Looks good.
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post #131 of 493 Old 09-07-2013, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, with some wiring advice from Mr.Tim, I now have the supply and exhaust dead vent fans wired.

Thermostat in the theater + Taco SR501-4 relay and a couple of Lutron 3 step fan speed controls.



I only have one Fantech at the moment - its model FR150 (263CFM). As a very "down and dirty test", I hooked up a piece of 25' 6" flex to the fan and had a listen.

Firstly, at full speed, the Fantech is obviously very audible. Furthermore, its pulling a LOT of air so it does make a lot of noise. When I switch the speed controller to "Medium", the fan is inaudible unless standing right beside it with your ear to it. It's still pulling quite a bit, but I'm not sure how much. At the "Medium" speed, I couldn't hear any noise from the duct which means it probably wasn't pulling that much. It wasn't a scientific test obviously as everything is unfinished in the basement, I can hear cars passing by outside etc.

All in-all, pretty happy. I think I'll have to bite the bullet and get a CFM meter just to see what I'm dealing with.

Today I'm visiting family out of town, but tomorrow, its a bit more electrical and then onto the OSB smile.gif

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post #132 of 493 Old 09-07-2013, 03:37 PM
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Looks good! Don't forget to bond the metal boxes to the grounding conductor (if you haven't already).

If you really want to get a anemometer, the Extech gets good reviews. I use the General Tools meter for CFM at work, but it's more money.

I'm glad the sound is working out.. But you won't really know until you land the flex into the plenum in the theater. The transition is where a lot of problems occur.

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post #133 of 493 Old 09-10-2013, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I should pick up one of the Extech units and then start a gear sharing program here on AVS smile.gif

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post #134 of 493 Old 11-10-2013, 06:33 PM - Thread Starter
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PICS!

I've been busy with work lately so I haven't had much time to work on the theater/basement but this weekend I got a bunch of stuff checked off the list.

The beginnings of the return dead-vent. I have 2" six inch ducts coming into the fantech shown here. Even at full speed (250 cfm), the ducts in the theatre are currently super quiet. Still have to hook up the exhaust flex and bring it to a boot. Then I need to insulate the "closet"



Framed for an access panel:



Finished framing the rest of the basement. Here you can see from the bottom of the stairs over into theatre entrance (top left).



Insulation is done in the theater! Just have to put the vapour barrier on the 2 exterior walls.

Looking towards screen wall. The bulkheads for the stack (left) and some duct work (right) will be hidden behind the screen wall. The hole in the wall on the right will be for the supply dead-vent.



Looking towards the back of the theatre - door on the left.



Backer box! smile.gif



5 cat6, hdmi, power (from inlet) + secondary power, + 2 future conduits to PJ location:



One of the rear returns -- flex runs in the joists. I just used metal elbows to make penetrating the ceiling easy. More flex will connect to this and run in a rear soffit to a grill.



Lots of cables! All the low-voltage cables for the stage. What you can't see are two additional conduits from the equipment rack.


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post #135 of 493 Old 11-11-2013, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Electrical Question:

Is it possible to wire two switched outlets together where:

a) power enters from a receptacle
b) receptacles are connected via 14-2
c) switch is at the end of the "run" and is also connected by 14-2.

Like this:

power source === 14/2 === switched plug 1 === 14/2 === switched plug 2 === switch

I want both plugs to be controlled by the switch (for led movie posters!)

I know I can wire a single switched outlet with just 14/2, but I'm not sure about two.

Like this, but with 2 receptacles:


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post #136 of 493 Old 11-11-2013, 09:46 AM
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It is possible (and permissible) to switch multiple receptacles with a single switch, yes. However, you will not be able to do it with 14/2. You need more than two conductors if your switch is at the end of the run. Using your diagram as an example, the black wire is always hot, and it is connected to the bottom of the receptacle, which is always hot. Then it is connected through the switch, and the striped wire is only hot when the switch is closed. That works for switched plug #2 in your description. But switched plug #1 still only has a black and a white wire coming in and going out, so switched plug #1 will always be hot (both halves). You need some way to get the switch leg (the striped wire) back to switched plug #1, so you will need 14/3 between the two receptacles, 14/2 from receptacle #2 to the switch, and 14/2 from receptacle #1 to the source, vis-a-vis:

power source === 14/2 === switched plug 1 === 14/3 === switched plug 2 === switch

You will need this type of arrangement whether you only switch half of the duplex or the whole duplex (top and bottom).

One relevent code requirement I am aware of would only come into play if you switch both halves of the receptacle. There is a requirement to have a receptacle placed around the room so that you are never farher than 6 feet from an outlet. If you switch half of the duplex, the other half counts to meet the requirement for receptacle spacing. If you switch both halves, the receptacle doesn't count for the spacing requirement, so you would need to still install additional receptacles to meet the spacing requirement.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #137 of 493 Old 11-11-2013, 09:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks! I thought so. Clears everything up smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sands_at_Pier147 View Post

It is possible (and permissible) to switch multiple receptacles with a single switch, yes. However, you will not be able to do it with 14/2. You need more than two conductors if your switch is at the end of the run. Using your diagram as an example, the black wire is always hot, and it is connected to the bottom of the receptacle, which is always hot. Then it is connected through the switch, and the striped wire is only hot when the switch is closed. That works for switched plug #2 in your description. But switched plug #1 still only has a black and a white wire coming in and going out, so switched plug #1 will always be hot (both halves). You need some way to get the switch leg (the striped wire) back to switched plug #1, so you will need 14/3 between the two receptacles, 14/2 from receptacle #2 to the switch, and 14/2 from receptacle #1 to the source, vis-a-vis:

power source === 14/2 === switched plug 1 === 14/3 === switched plug 2 === switch

You will need this type of arrangement whether you only switch half of the duplex or the whole duplex (top and bottom).

One relevent code requirement I am aware of would only come into play if you switch both halves of the receptacle. There is a requirement to have a receptacle placed around the room so that you are never farher than 6 feet from an outlet. If you switch half of the duplex, the other half counts to meet the requirement for receptacle spacing. If you switch both halves, the receptacle doesn't count for the spacing requirement, so you would need to still install additional receptacles to meet the spacing requirement.

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post #138 of 493 Old 11-22-2013, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Got some custom hvac boots made. Here's one for above the racks in the equipment room. I had them lined with 1" of Linacoustic. Inexpensive and saved me from making MDF versions.






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post #139 of 493 Old 11-22-2013, 02:57 PM
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post #140 of 493 Old 11-25-2013, 05:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Some more pics:

Here's another custom boot I had made -- this one is in the "dead-vent" itself. It has an 8x18 opening and is placed in another room in the basement. Exhaust air from the theater will be dumped here.







I also got started on the drywall in the theater. I found a (seemingly) good drywaller who I plan to have finish the rest of the basement. I wanted to be involved in the theater as he didn't have much experience with the channel and had never used GG before.

In a couple hours on Saturday we got the first layer up on the ceiling and a bunch of boards up on the walls.


OSB substituted for the first layer of drywall in the rear where the projector will be placed (in a rear soffit).


Ran out of duct work and had to use a take off to penetrate the ceiling. It'll do the trick. Used some Silenseal to seal gaps.


Conduits in projector location. Again, more Silenseal used to seal gaps. For the third hole, I'm tempted to use some putty pads instead as I made the hole larger than I needed.


Picked up a used drywall lift last week for $100. Money well spent.


Cutout for recessed light. The sleeve for the can is pulled down to accommodate for the second layer. However, its a pressure fit and when I put the second layer up, the sleeve will slide back up into the housing temporarily (until I pull it back down), so I'm tempted to wait and just use Silenseal after the second layer is up.

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post #141 of 493 Old 11-25-2013, 07:15 AM
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Nice work.

Question. In the latest photo showing the 8"x18" vent, the left left of the vent is what looks like an "always on" type of fan often used for things like Radon Mitigation. Is that going to be for the dead vent?

I am planning on adding some sort of dead vent in my theater, problem is that it has been pretty much "done" from the construction perspective for about 18 months, so I need to retro something. I wish I could find some sort of "always on" fan that would fit inside a 5.5" wall cavity (staggered stud wall with a 2x6 top and bottom plate)... Those fans seem to all be pretty big. I understand why they are big like that (large fans can spin slower for less noise but great air movement over long distances) but need to brainstorm on options so I thought I would ask if that was your plan and maybe figure something else out.
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post #142 of 493 Old 11-25-2013, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, its a Fantech FR150 fan (263cfm) which I run at half speed. The one pictured above is for the exhaust and I have another for the supply.

Both fans are controlled via a thermostat in the theater and a Taco switching relay and a fan speed control which reside in my utility/furnace room. When I set the fan setting to "on" via the thermostat, both fans kick in. I'm using a speed control to slow down the fans so they push/pull the right amount of air. I started with one of the 3 step Lutron switches, but wasn't happy with the speed options. I've since switched to a Fantech WC15 rotary controller and basically have full control. A bit earlier in the thread, you can see some pics of the setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickbuol View Post

Nice work.

Question. In the latest photo showing the 8"x18" vent, the left left of the vent is what looks like an "always on" type of fan often used for things like Radon Mitigation. Is that going to be for the dead vent?

I am planning on adding some sort of dead vent in my theater, problem is that it has been pretty much "done" from the construction perspective for about 18 months, so I need to retro something. I wish I could find some sort of "always on" fan that would fit inside a 5.5" wall cavity (staggered stud wall with a 2x6 top and bottom plate)... Those fans seem to all be pretty big. I understand why they are big like that (large fans can spin slower for less noise but great air movement over long distances) but need to brainstorm on options so I thought I would ask if that was your plan and maybe figure something else out.

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post #143 of 493 Old 11-25-2013, 07:39 AM
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Hey Memmo! I just stumbled on your thread today and did a cover-to-cover read.....great work so far!! You really need to put your thread in signature because it's a real showpiece.

Keep up the great work. I'm subbed and look forward to more updates!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

You really need to put your thread in signature because it's a real showpiece.

Showpiece?!? Hardly, but thanks! If it wasn't for this forum and the members graciously sharing their knowledge I wouldn't have even started the build. I started the project with absolutely no technical skills, but the more I work at things, the more I gain confidence. I'm looking forward to having the drywall in the theater + equipment room done shortly so that I can work on some of the fun stuff (stage, riser, columns, trim etc). Infact, its giving me an excuse to get some new toys. I'm going to pick up a Festool or Dewalt track saw this week along with a Rigid Sliding miter saw that HD has on sale. Fun times smile.gif

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post #145 of 493 Old 11-25-2013, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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For anyone interested, this is a rough UI concept that I'm working on for iRule that will control my automation/distributed a/v setup including the theater.


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post #146 of 493 Old 12-02-2013, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Got most of the second layer up this weekend - only one more wall to go smile.gif


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post #147 of 493 Old 12-02-2013, 09:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Focus is now going to switch to stage and riser construction.

With my limited ceiling height, I'm planning on a 2x6 riser and then a smaller platform directly below second row seats. Question is should I make the frame for the riser with 2x6's and then the "joists" with 2x4's - perhaps 12" o/c? Total span will be about 7 feet, but I do plan on putting in mid-span supports. Alternatively I could rip some 2x6's down by an inch or so to clear any floor irregularities.

Thoughts?

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post #148 of 493 Old 12-02-2013, 10:21 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll have to double check this evening, but I'm thinking there is enough variation in the slab that shimming might be a nightmare. At least on the riser, having only exterior "frame" pieces to worry about shimming would help greatly I'd think.

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post #149 of 493 Old 12-02-2013, 10:46 AM
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Scratch my comments from above....I was thinking stage, not riser. In fact, I deleted my post because it had zero applicability to your questions! smile.gif

Does your floor really have that much variation that it could affect how the riser sets in position with all 2x6 framing? To me, 2x4 is never "joist-worthy" material. If your floor is that wavy, ripping a bit off each 2x6, preserving as much meat as possible, is probably the way to go.

If you plan to use your riser as a bass trap, that's the only reason to have all the riser joist bays "connected". Otherwise I'd just go with all 2x6 at 12" OC for everything. Add your top layers of sheet material and then build your 2x4 studding perpendicular to the 2x6 studding, add sheet material and call it a day.
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post #150 of 493 Old 12-02-2013, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I think it would be nice to use it as a bass trap, but I'd rather not have 10+ grills I see people install in the stage to accommodate for one.

I can really only get 8 foot lengths home easily, so I'll have to build the riser in two sections. But ripping down the 2x6's sounds like the best option.

The Big Bay Home Theater Build Thread
My personal theater build on Kempenfelt Bay, Barrie Ontario Canada
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