Not So Much Dediciated Theater more part-time - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-03-2012, 11:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey guys,
Long time lurker, finally ready to start my project. It was initially intended to be dedicated, but with 2 kids, 2 parents and a wife, no more....

Heres what i got, its a big rectangular room 33' x 21' and the "Theater" component is definitely its second purpose.
So I have a few questions for you guys....

I already have 1" 25PSI Green-Guard rigid foam boards, ready to be installed.
1) how close to the ground do i install it?
2) do i cover the sill plate, and take insulation right up to floor joists?
3) I already have Fiberglass insulation in the rim joists, do i need to put foam there?
4) can i put furring strips right against foam screwed into wall for sheetrock to be attached to?


Look forward to allot more questions from me!

TIA

Im in North Georgia, so any locals with code knowledge pm me!
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-03-2012, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Just got off phone with inspectors. Cant shoot nails thru foam, so would do 1x1 furring strips with foam in between.
THen sheetrock on top of that.... only they dont recommend it.

ANyone here do that, and how hard was it to get electrical in it?
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post #3 of 7 Old 08-03-2012, 12:38 PM
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Is there a reason you are not doing standard 2x4 framing?
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-03-2012, 01:00 PM - Thread Starter
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yeah, forgot to mention the main drain pipe for house is 3" off one of the walls and 2" from floor joists, in the smallest room.
So if i did traditional 2x4 wall it would be at least 8"-12" of lost space to clear those pipes.
Or else i'd have to do some tricky carpentry to frame around it, the header would have to attach to some sort of soffit around the pipe.
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post #5 of 7 Old 08-03-2012, 07:11 PM
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ideally, you don't want your finish wall framing touching the cement wall foundation, for thermal, acoustic, or moisture wicking reasons.
Have you considered conventional framing that lies flush with the offending pipes and have a layer of plywood/OSB lay over the top of the pipes to support drywall? You don't need 3 1/2" past the pipes, just something solid to keep the drywall from shifting.
Otherwise, this forum is filled with clever soffits covering worse protrusions.......

underachiever extraordinaire
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-03-2012, 07:57 PM
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And if it's just PVC, that's really easy to move around if there's a better route for the drain. Even if it's just to hug the wall more. Easy question for a plumber once you know what you want...


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post #7 of 7 Old 08-06-2012, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Weaselfest I thought about framing it flush with the pipes. but i dont know what i would anchor the top plate too.
Like the pictures show its runs approx 75% across that wall, and is braced to the floor joists.
So the only place to use would be the wall, and it would 3-4" gap between the both.
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