Mr.Tim's 15x27 Theater - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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CONSTRUCTION:
  1. 5/8"+1/2" GWB with Green Glue
  2. RSIC-1 and channel (both sides) between theater and adjacent mechanical room
  3. Double stud walls
  4. Pink fluffy fiberglass throughout, except mineral fiber in mechanical room wall


ELECTRIC:
(4) 20A circuits to rack to rac
(1) 15A and (1) 20A for lighting (I used an existing 20A; I would have preferred 15A)
(2) Lutron GRX-3104 from eBay. $108 (ivory) and $187.50 (white)
  • Zone 1- 3 recessed lights in adjacent walkway
  • Zone 2- 4 step lights
  • Zone 3- 4 recessed lights above screen
  • Zone 4- 6 recessed lights above seating
  • Zone 5- 4 recessed lights at rear
  • Zone 6- LED tray lighting
  • Zone 7- Track lights behind AT screen
  • Zone 8- Unused
Leviton TR black decora receptacles $2/ea
Leviton black screwless cover plates $3/ea
Halo R36RTAT 3" recessed lights $25/ea
Halo 3011BKBB 3" black trims $25/ea
Halo 3" pinhole black trims (at screen) $27/ea

LED LIGHTING
HitLights 3528 LED, 60 LEDs per meter (300 per reel) $68
Mean Well dimmable power supply $82
Lutron GRX-TVI interface $10 (eBay!)

HVAC:
Panasonic Inline 120CFM FV-10NLF1 fan in rack closet $130
- piped mostly in 4" rigid, with short pieces of 4" flex connecting to fan and end boot
LUX LV3-005L Cool-only 120v thermostat $18
- turns exhaust fan on when temperature exceeds 85 degrees (pretty much 24/7)
2-slot 24" long linear diffuser $47
- made plenum out of drywall+gg+drywall and lined with 2" rigid fiberglass insulation
8x8x7 Return box $8
Hart Cooley RHF45 Return filter grill (special order; link is for a 12x12) $25

AUDIO:
Onkyo NR709 B-Stock $394
2x Buttkicker 1000W amps (from AVS group buy a looooong time ago)
LCR- Stentorian
Surrounds- 4x Sten II
(2) Buttkicker LFE in riser, which is built on vibration isolators
(2) Cinema F-20 (behind screen wall)

VIDEO:
Optoma HD20 (new, open box; less than 1 hour on machine) $550
Panasonic Blu-Ray player

SEATING:
Seatcraft EROS |O|O|O|, |O|OO|O| $2000
Used stadium seating |O|O|O|O|O| $free


Tim

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post #2 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Plan:



Stage:


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post #3 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Where I started:



2006-02-20-13h27m12.jpg

Where I am today:

IMG_1107.JPG

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post #4 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 10:57 AM
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WHOO! You've got some sweet dimensions to work with. Your blueprints look intriguing.

Am I seeing an acoustically transparent screen with a chamber for speakers behind it? I don't see it in the first pic, but it looks like that might be the second pic.

Spoken as the guy who just finished his theater this past weekend... "Soldier, I wish you well."

Just keep talkin'. I'll let you know when you're right.
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post #5 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 10:59 AM
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Ooops. I commented too soon. You're still unfolding your story in pictures.

<--- Shutting up.

Just keep talkin'. I'll let you know when you're right.
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post #6 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cshawnmcdonald View Post

WHOO! You've got some sweet dimensions to work with. Your blueprints look intriguing.
Am I seeing an acoustically transparent screen with a chamber for speakers behind it? I don't see it in the first pic, but it looks like that might be the second pic.
Spoken as the guy who just finished his theater this past weekend... "Soldier, I wish you well."

There's about 2 feet of space behind the AT screen. I furred out the front wall 3-1/2" and installed Roxul Safe'n'Sound across the front. The corners will be pink (or white, in my case) fluffy fiberglass bass traps; 2 layers of 6" with air space behind.

Thanks for the well wishes, I have been working on this a long time and finally feel comfortable starting a thread. I think I may be done before the "old thread warning" appears smile.gif

This is what it looks like:

IMG_1244.JPG


Tim

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post #7 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I have been working on this a long time and finally feel comfortable starting a thread.

Brother, I totally understand that. I also waited to start my thread until I was sure my start-and-stop build was more started than stopped.

At that point, I had internalized so much heartbreak I didn't wan't to go back relive it all in a forum. And then, you see so many pics of OMFG!-quality builds by guys spending $100K, and you think "Nobody is going to care about my little shoebox build."

Yours is definitely off to a really good start. Keep on, keepin' on.

Just keep talkin'. I'll let you know when you're right.
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post #8 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 11:44 AM
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Tim, your contributions to this forum have always been precise and insightful. I've been waiting for you to start this thread for a while now, because I knew it would be a good one. (No pressure wink.gif )

The plans and progress look great so far - how about a list of equipment?

Fred


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post #9 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

Tim, your contributions to this forum have always been precise and insightful. I've been waiting for you to start this thread for a while now, because I knew it would be a good one. (No pressure wink.gif )
The plans and progress look great so far - how about a list of equipment?
Fred

Thanks for the kind words, Fred. I have a lot of photos of construction, but I'll be darned if I know where they are. I just realized the 16gb card from my Nikon is MIA, I suspect there are some photos on there. The mightiest of plans and ideas succumbed to the reality of budget. I had to make some compromises in design and material.

I had planned on a much more intricate (read:wood) ceiling, but in the end drywall and spackle is a lot cheaper.

My soffits were made from left over framing material, which wasn't the greatest (actually, it was as crooked as a rattlesnake, but it was free):
mid_soffit.jpg

About 15mins with the power planer and a straightedge and I had a flat surface. It was interesting to see the deflection in the joists due to the dead load above. The ceiling actually dips down a bit, but I made the soffits straight.

Front soffit was a lot easier!

front_soffit.jpg

Some people don't like metal, but I love it. Always straight. However, I always use 20ga. I refuse to use 25ga for anything. In a pinch I will pick up one or two 25ga on a Sunday if I need them.. I always regret it.

Tim

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post #10 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 01:51 PM
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Good to see your build thread. You've always given great advice on this forum. I was going to make a comment on how you would probably pass me up in the progress department, but alas you already have. frown.gif


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 (Currently on Pause)
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post #11 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jon_B View Post

Good to see your build thread. You've always given great advice on this forum. I was going to make a comment on how you would probably pass me up in the progress department, but alas you already have. frown.gif

I had about a 5 year head start smile.gif I wish could say everything went as planned, but things change and many things returned to the drawing board. At one point I just threw the board out the window and winged it.

So many pipes/wires/ducts to work around.. Add in a budget and all heck breaks loose.

Still a bit to go with construction, so hopefully I can help somebody out.. somewhere.. with something I do.

Tim

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post #12 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Installed CHDK on my cheapo Powershot A560, pretty cool! Wish I could take credit for this awesome idea, but I gotta give props to jdanforth, whose idea I have blatantly stolen smile.gif Like I hope to have, he has two Cinema F-20s in his room. Check out his thread here. His time lapse vids are sweet.

Without further ado.. I give you..


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post #13 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 05:48 PM
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Whoo! I've been waiting for you to post a build thread for awhile now after all of the great advice you gave me. Keep up the good work!

In regards to putting lights behind your AT screen, I think that that would look awesome. Some kind of opening video (think IMAX) that you could load into your HTPC and play before a movie would be so cool. Maybe even some track lights installed in front of the speakers on the stage that shine up on them?


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A DIY high school project (now complete and being enjoyed everyday)

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post #14 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 07:38 PM
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It's hard to believe your space is 15 x 27. It looks HUGE. Great use of the space and the layout is GREAT!


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Work in Progress...
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post #15 of 597 Old 08-27-2012, 08:11 PM
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Really like the tiered soffits over the riser. Looks really sharp.

- Dave


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post #16 of 597 Old 08-28-2012, 01:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Pink fluffy fiberglass throughout, except brown death in mechanical room wall

What is brown death? Rock wool?

 

 

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post #17 of 597 Old 08-28-2012, 04:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Whoo! I've been waiting for you to post a build thread for awhile now after all of the great advice you gave me. Keep up the good work!
In regards to putting lights behind your AT screen, I think that that would look awesome. Some kind of opening video (think IMAX) that you could load into your HTPC and play before a movie would be so cool. Maybe even some track lights installed in front of the speakers on the stage that shine up on them?

I wasn't going to do it, but I have the extra zones, so it is an idea (unless somebody has a better one!). Relatively easy to implement at this point if I use incandescent bulbs.

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Originally Posted by Johnny14o View Post

It's hard to believe your space is 15 x 27. It looks HUGE. Great use of the space and the layout is GREAT!

Thanks! The room measures 27'-1" from the rear wall to the front wall. I furred both of them out with 3-1/2" studs spaced 1" off the drywall, leaving 26'-4". The seating and screen wall portions of the room are 12'-8" wide. The walkway adds another 3'-3". The ceiling is about 9'-6" at it's highest point.

Due to mechanicals, I soffited down to 7' at the entry door. Lucky me, 7' is the minimum ceiling height to meet code. I'd like to be able to say I planned it that way, but I had to use a shoe horn just to get that height. The upside is you enter into this small space, but when you step down into the theater, the whole place just opens up.

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Originally Posted by fax6202 View Post

Really like the tiered soffits over the riser. Looks really sharp.

They're still a work in progress. I have to finish framing the "frame" for my screen. I've been trying to figure out the best way to do it.. I would think it would be easy, but I keep changing my mind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rabident View Post

What is brown death? Rock wool?

Yes, rock wool. The real stuff. Safe'n'sound is nothing like what I put in the mechanical room walls. I could lay safe'n'sound batts two deep on the floor and take a nap in it. I will never use rock wool again now that I've discovered safe'n'sound.

Tim

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post #18 of 597 Old 08-28-2012, 09:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Making the stage..

I chose the classic stage design that many of us have chosen. Not sure who pioneered this design (Sunset Cinema?), but it's classy.

Scribed the lines:
IMG_0904.JPG
IMG_0910.JPG

Filled with sand (small openings stuffed with fiberglass):
IMG_0914.JPG

Covered with Tyvek:
IMG_0929.JPG

Deck:
IMG_0930.JPG

Install the risers (3/8" ply):
IMG_0933.JPG

Deck again:
IMG_0934.JPG

I did the risers before the second layer of decking for a specific reason. No matter how good you are with a jig saw, the plywood never comes out perfect when you cut an arc.

The 3/8" plywood on the riser smooths out all the zigs and zags. After I installed the second layer of OSB I used a router with a flush trim bit to make a smooth arc.

Tim

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post #19 of 597 Old 08-28-2012, 09:10 AM
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Looking good Mr. Tim! I'm excited to see this one - as aaustin said above, I have appreciated your advice in my build very much!

The Esquire Theater Construction Thread:

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post #20 of 597 Old 08-28-2012, 10:46 AM
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Ok, $20 to the first guy to spot a code violation in Mr.Tim's theater.

Just kidding, looking good. Keep it up.

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #21 of 597 Old 08-28-2012, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BllDo View Post

Ok, $20 to the first guy to spot a code violation in Mr.Tim's theater.
Just kidding, looking good. Keep it up.

Hahaha man I hope there's no violations in these photos!

First rule of inspection: you don't have to be right, you have to be reasonable! smile.gif

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post #22 of 597 Old 08-28-2012, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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It's 8:30p and I think I'm done spackling for the day.

Went through another 5 gallons. Everything has 2 coats and about 90% has a third.

I'll finish up the third coat tomorrow AM then off to big orange to get a new miter saw, some 3/4 MDF and some 3/4 birch plywood.

Hopefully I can get everything primed tomorrow.. or at least most of it.

Made a call to the supplier and it looks like my new CAC air handler and condenser will be here some time after Labor Day. Sure wish I had installed that first, it's got to be 90%+ humidity down there.

Tim

IMG_1249.JPG

IMG_1250.JPG

IMG_1251.JPG

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post #23 of 597 Old 08-28-2012, 08:52 PM
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High humidity means the mud and spackle will take forever to dry.

Just keep talkin'. I'll let you know when you're right.
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post #24 of 597 Old 08-29-2012, 02:50 AM
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WOW! I'm glad I came across your thread Tim. I have been waiting to see your thread for a long time (no pressure).

What are you doing for HVAC in your theater?

Nick


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post #25 of 597 Old 08-29-2012, 03:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cshawnmcdonald View Post

High humidity means the mud and spackle will take forever to dry.

Yeah, it does take a while. I'd like to say I would move faster if it dried faster... But I'd be lying. I can only do so much without having to take a break. My elbow has been joined by my shoulder in a symphony of pain.

Luckily the room is big enough that I can keep moving without much hassle. The third coat is pretty thin, so even with high humidity it dries ok. I have a fan going.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

WOW! I'm glad I came across your thread Tim. I have been waiting to see your thread for a long time (no pressure).
What are you doing for HVAC in your theater?
Nick

For starters I'm putting a 3-zone system in the house. The basement will have it's own zone with two thermostats. One tstat in the theater and one in the other part of the basement. The AC will come on if either tstat calls.

The theater ductwork has been sized equivalent to the rest of the basement. It's been so long I don't remember what the CFM numbers are (60, I think? I can push more if I have to), but it should meet NC17. A 5" supply with a 2' 2-slot diffuser and a 6" return with an 8x8 filter grill.

Additionally I have wired for a mini-split, as the CAC will not support a full load of people in the theater. I didn't want to be dumping a ton of CFMs in the empty theater with the CAC when the rest of the basement was calling. Th theater would be like 50 degrees. The CAC should handle 3 people in the theater (which will be 90% of the time). My equipment is not in the theater.

Tim

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post #26 of 597 Old 08-29-2012, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anybody know of a flush mount IR emitter? THe only thing I can find is this:

126_38020.jpg

Do they not make one that you can drill a round hole and push it in (like most of the receivers)?

Tim

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post #27 of 597 Old 08-29-2012, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Does anybody know of a flush mount IR emitter? THe only thing I can find is this:
126_38020.jpg
Do they not make one that you can drill a round hole and push it in (like most of the receivers)?
Tim

Do they still have issues with emitters not being directly attached to the components IR window? I would be interested to know if that style emitter works.

- Dave


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post #28 of 597 Old 08-29-2012, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Does anybody know of a flush mount IR emitter?


Sigh. Even if they made one and it cost a dollar, it still wouldn't work with my UVerse remote. Profanity, profanity, profanity.

Just keep talkin'. I'll let you know when you're right.
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post #29 of 597 Old 08-29-2012, 07:59 AM
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A lot of Microsmith users report success controlling their UVerse remotes. I don't have UVerse, but I love my Hot Link pro set up.

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Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #30 of 597 Old 08-29-2012, 12:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Color... color.. and color.

Need thoughts on paint scheme. So far I have the following:

Wainscot: black (General Finishes black)
Upper Walls: brown (Behr Mocha Latte)
Soffits: ??
Ceiling: ??
Absorption panels: red (to match my seats)

I had originally planned on black ceilings, but wondering if a dark blue might be cooler? I will have red LED uplighting in the trays.. Don't know if it will work better with blue or black ceiling?

Should I paint the soffits brown too? Or black?

I guess it really depends on what color I paint the ceiling.

I'm not the best at picking out colors..

Tim

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