My First Home Theater - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 09-09-2012, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Hello all,

I have been a long time lurker and decided to post some data on our HT buildout for suggestions and clarifications if possible. I really appreciate all of the great information that people have posted over the years. It has been very helpful in this project. I feel like I have most things covered but I do have a few concerns. I’ve uploaded a few diagrams that show my room and the general layout as well as Electrical and HVAC data. The room is roughly 15’-4” x 20’-8” x 9’-8” and will typically have 2-4 people watching movies or sports.
Construction is well underway and the plan is to finalize HVAC this week and sheetrock as early as this Friday (Sept 14, 2012).

General Construction
Is a 3” front riser filled with sand a waste of time and money versus just setting everything on the floor?
We are going to do DD+GG with clips and hat channel on the roof only. In addition, I am thinking of doing cellulose insulation for the ceiling and the plan south and west (stairwell) walls. Is this overkill?
How exactly do you route and penetrate the ceiling/trey to provide HDMI/Cat 6 cabling to the projector? I also have a 1.5” Carlon flex tube for future. With a blown cellulose insulation, DD+GG and hat channel what is the best way.
I was planning on building a box for the projector but I’ve, for now, decided to just have it free air.
Are any of you installing a sheet of OSB/plywood slightly above the sheetrock (inside of the joist cavity) along the path of where a projector would be installed in case you swap projectors and the throw/zoom is different from your original unit?...or is that overkill?

Lighting
Has anyone used these LED recessed lights in a HT?
http://www.lsgc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/GLM_6_0612.pdf
Seems like these only require a 2.5” light outlet box penetration versus a renovation can light. I’m thinking this would just require a putty pad versus building backer boxes.
I tested these with a generic dimmer switch from HD and the dimming worked ok, but I am interested if these will work with Control 4 or URC (Lutron) dimmers as these are LED lights. Btw…These get BRIGHT.
As far as switching I’d like to hide the (3) dimmer switches and would prefer to have a 3-button control walking into the room. A – turns on all lighting zones to full ON, B – fades lights OFF and powers down room, C – puts lighting into a HT mode and powers everything up.

HVAC
I have (2) 8” supply’s and (1) 10” return all of which are being dumped into 4’ 2-slot diffusers. This room is a zone off of a 2-ton unit. There are (2) other 10” returns on the unit feeding the other zone in the basement.
For cooling my enclosed rack area I have a 4” return duct tied into the AC unit and a 4” exhaust duct running outside of the house (like a bathroom exhaust). I was planning on putting a 12v DC PC fan on that exhaust line that will kick on when the receiver is powered on. I was also planning on putting a return grill cut into the side wall (dead vent?). The front of the AV rack was going to be hidden behind a hinged movie poster framed picture.

AV Equipment
Are (2) SVS PB12-NSB subs to much/not enough for 3000^3 ft? I plan on placing them at ¼ of the width of the wall they are on. My other option would be something like (1) SVS PB12-Plus
Also – I haven’t decided yet on the projector (although I’m leaning towards the Epson 6010/6020), screen, receiver, speakers or automation (Control 4 or URC so far). I have gotten several list price quotes from local dealers around my $15,000 AV budget. Is this common? I would think with that budget I could get some discounts.


Sorry for the lengthy start, and thanks for any feedback.

General HT Layout 199k .pdf file Electrical Layout 212k .pdf file HVAC Layout 206k .pdf file
Attached Files
File Type: pdf General Layout.pdf (199.4 KB, 52 views)
File Type: pdf Electrical Layout.pdf (212.5 KB, 24 views)
File Type: pdf HVAC Layout.pdf (205.9 KB, 17 views)
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post #2 of 6 Old 09-13-2012, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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86 looks and no replies...bummer

Did anyone check out the lights? I thought they were pretty cool. Just wondering if anyone has actually put that type of light (vs cans) in.
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post #3 of 6 Old 09-13-2012, 02:35 PM
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Wow everything looks great. One thing I would recommend regarding the HVAC is to use spray on insulation in the ceiling for sound and vibration control. Also spray around any plumbing in the ceiling. The last thing you want to hear is a vent rattling in the ceiling above you.Try to have a two layer free floating ceiling. This will improve sound quality and keep the noise level down upstairs.

Regarding automation and control, both Crestron and URC are great. As you probably know both have to be purchased and programmed through a professional installer. I've used URC remotes for years and really like their durability. URC has been lacking on integrating the Total Control or Complete Control system with Ipads or Android. If you like hard buttons on your remote and are not worried about controlling things with an Ipad, URC offers some great remotes and are a bit cheaper than Crestron. I can't really comment on the Crestron system since I haven't used their products. I currently use an mx-5000 in my media room and an mx-780 in the family room. My family likes the hard buttons of the Mx-780. Urc has done a great job of adding devices that allow 2-way communication. If your interested in purchasing URC remotes, I would recommend Vincent at Total Control. Great guy and will program the remotes for you. Another choice is Surf Remote Control for just the hardware.

When buying equipment try to avoid buying components that just use toggle codes for on and off. Discrete codes work every time.

Good luck with the build. Always remember to run my wire than you ever think you will need. Nothing worse than a drywaller screwing through a 40 ft HDMI cable and not finding out until after they are paid and long gone..
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post #4 of 6 Old 09-13-2012, 02:54 PM
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Sorry skipped over the first paragraph when making recommendations. Cellulose insulation and and a clipped ceiling are very important!!. I would pull 1 or 2 HDMI cables along with 2 CAT6 to the media closet. Monoprice redmere technolgy HDMI cables are extremely thin and flexible. Just drill through your ceiling joists to run the smurf tube. Local code by me states I can't drill a hole larger than 1 1/2 " in floor/ceiling joists. Always try to avoid drilling through any tri-lam supports. Remember to caulk any openings around the smurf tube.The 2 cat6 are for future proofing. Right now you can use two CAT6 for long run HDMI with no problem. Also, run a 3.5mm" wire to use as a 12 volt trigger if needed in the future or to pull another wire. I have an older Epson 8500 UB and love it. Most projectors today have a wider throw range, so I don't think you need to mount plywood in the ceiling. Maybe check out the new Panasonic AE-8000 or one of the Benq projectors, I have heard a lot of good things about them.
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post #5 of 6 Old 09-13-2012, 03:23 PM
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If you are going to go through the effort of soundproofing then you'll need to treat the walls as well as the ceiling. Sound is like water and your room is like an aquarium. One hole and all of the water will leak out.

You'll also need to seal any penetrations in the walls and ceiling (lights, outlets, switches, etc.) with backer boxes or putty pads.

A heavy solid core door with seals is also a must.

Just use cheap fiberglass insulation in the walls and ceiling. Spray foam is great for thermal, but provides no benefit (it's actually a little worse) over much cheaper alternatives like fiberglass for sound control.

Some useful articles for you:

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/soundproof-a-room-basics/
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/4-elements-of-soundproofing-for-construction/
http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/soundproofing101/flanking/

The Austin Home Theater:
A DIY high school project (now complete and being enjoyed everyday)

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post #6 of 6 Old 09-14-2012, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback.

We only got one layer of sheet rock on the walls today so no green glue. I did run (2) Cat 6 and (2) HDMI cables (1-25' "professional" and 1-30' Redmere from monoprice). I also pulled a spare 1.5" carlon tube to the projector area for future use. I missed pulling the trigger wire but can pull that in the carlon tube.

We did blown cellulose in the walls and ceiling. I ended up going with the 6" dimmable LED lights that fit into 4" j-boxes and backed those with putty pads. We put Dynomax pads on a sewer line in a wall surrounding the room. To be honest, I couldn't tell any difference before and after using the Dynomax. With the cellulose and 1-layer of sheetrock I can't hear it at all. I'm thinking the GG + 1 more layer is going to be great. We sealed all of the penetrations in the first layer from the electrical and carlon tubes.

The slot diffusers worked out great. We fired up the unit before starting sheet rock for a few minutes - good air flow and you couldn't hear anything.

Still looking into doors. The GC for the basement talked about a 2.25" solid core door he's used in other HT's so we are looking at that for now.
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