I have been a long time lurker and decided to post some data on our HT buildout for suggestions and clarifications if possible. I really appreciate all of the great information that people have posted over the years. It has been very helpful in this project. I feel like I have most things covered but I do have a few concerns. I’ve uploaded a few diagrams that show my room and the general layout as well as Electrical and HVAC data. The room is roughly 15’-4” x 20’-8” x 9’-8” and will typically have 2-4 people watching movies or sports.
Construction is well underway and the plan is to finalize HVAC this week and sheetrock as early as this Friday (Sept 14, 2012).General Construction
Is a 3” front riser filled with sand a waste of time and money versus just setting everything on the floor?
We are going to do DD+GG with clips and hat channel on the roof only. In addition, I am thinking of doing cellulose insulation for the ceiling and the plan south and west (stairwell) walls. Is this overkill?
How exactly do you route and penetrate the ceiling/trey to provide HDMI/Cat 6 cabling to the projector? I also have a 1.5” Carlon flex tube for future. With a blown cellulose insulation, DD+GG and hat channel what is the best way.
I was planning on building a box for the projector but I’ve, for now, decided to just have it free air.
Are any of you installing a sheet of OSB/plywood slightly above the sheetrock (inside of the joist cavity) along the path of where a projector would be installed in case you swap projectors and the throw/zoom is different from your original unit?...or is that overkill?Lighting
Has anyone used these LED recessed lights in a HT?http://www.lsgc.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/GLM_6_0612.pdf
Seems like these only require a 2.5” light outlet box penetration versus a renovation can light. I’m thinking this would just require a putty pad versus building backer boxes.
I tested these with a generic dimmer switch from HD and the dimming worked ok, but I am interested if these will work with Control 4 or URC (Lutron) dimmers as these are LED lights. Btw…These get BRIGHT.
As far as switching I’d like to hide the (3) dimmer switches and would prefer to have a 3-button control walking into the room. A – turns on all lighting zones to full ON, B – fades lights OFF and powers down room, C – puts lighting into a HT mode and powers everything up.HVAC
I have (2) 8” supply’s and (1) 10” return all of which are being dumped into 4’ 2-slot diffusers. This room is a zone off of a 2-ton unit. There are (2) other 10” returns on the unit feeding the other zone in the basement.
For cooling my enclosed rack area I have a 4” return duct tied into the AC unit and a 4” exhaust duct running outside of the house (like a bathroom exhaust). I was planning on putting a 12v DC PC fan on that exhaust line that will kick on when the receiver is powered on. I was also planning on putting a return grill cut into the side wall (dead vent?). The front of the AV rack was going to be hidden behind a hinged movie poster framed picture.AV Equipment
Are (2) SVS PB12-NSB subs to much/not enough for 3000^3 ft? I plan on placing them at ¼ of the width of the wall they are on. My other option would be something like (1) SVS PB12-Plus
Also – I haven’t decided yet on the projector (although I’m leaning towards the Epson 6010/6020), screen, receiver, speakers or automation (Control 4 or URC so far). I have gotten several list price quotes from local dealers around my $15,000 AV budget. Is this common? I would think with that budget I could get some discounts.
Sorry for the lengthy start, and thanks for any feedback.
General HT Layout 199k .pdf file
Electrical Layout 212k .pdf file
HVAC Layout 206k .pdf file