Sound proofing an existing room w/ roxul - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-10-2012, 10:43 AM - Thread Starter
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So i'm trying to read and retain as much of this topic as possible for my situation and would appreciate some advice. On a limited budget (and skillset) for turning my existing bonus room (on 2nd floor with garage underneath) into a nightly movie/game room w/out waking the baby and wife. The bonus room shares a wall with a bedroom and a hallway, the other 2 walls are exterior walls.

This is what I was thinking about doing:

1. Cutting bottom 4 ft of walls off and sliding Roxul AFB insulation up the wall cavities (haven't seen safe & sound yet), the ceiling wall goes into the atic which has 12" or 16" fiberglass batt insulation with the loose stuff on top of it.
2. replace the cutout drywall with 1/2" drywall (builders drywall) then green glue a sheet of 5/8" drywall to it. I will put the green glue and 5/8" drywall on the ajoining bedroom's wall too, making a sandwich for that wall.
3. The wall that shares itself with the hallway was only getting one side of green glue and 5/8" drywall, but also the roxul. again the other 2walls are exterior walls of the home so I wasn't planning on doing anythng with them.

Thanks
Mike

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post #2 of 17 Old 09-10-2012, 11:41 AM
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Hopefully Ted White or another member with a lot of expertise will drop by and provide good responses. In the meantime, here is a mediocre response:

I don't think there is anything special about Roxul, except that it doesn't make you itch like fiberglass. In terms of acoustic performance, R13 fiberglass is about as good as anything else.

Have you read up on "flanking"? If you haven't seen them yet, spend some time with the articles here: www.soundproofingcompany.com

If you only treat some of the walls, sound will "flank" your treatments and enter the rest of the house. I would plan on adding a second layer of drywall with Green Glue to all the walls, including the ceiling.

Have you thought about how you will handle the door? It's a huge source of potential sound leakage. The budget approach would be to replace the existing door with a 1-3/4" solid slab exterior door -- the heavier, the better -- with good weatherstripping (including the bottom).

Items not addressed by this plan: (1) decoupling (would require removing all the existing drywall and putting up clips and channel); (2) the floor (another source of flanking problems); (3) penetrations of the DD+GG envelope from recessed lights, electrical outlets, etc.; (4) HVAC. With a limited budget, you may not be able to fix all of this. Even so, you should understand, and be willing to accept, the compromises you're making.

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post #3 of 17 Old 09-10-2012, 01:23 PM
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I agree with all of the above. Additionally, the GG + Drywall on a 16" OC wall framing won't work great, either.

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post #4 of 17 Old 09-10-2012, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I appreciate the comments and considered many of the above metioned but aside from budgetary constraints, I wonder if that is overkill. The clips and channels sound good but could be costly. The system I'm running is fairly modet. I listed out my system below. I was going to use weather stripping for he doors, they're french doors too.

Ted, what about the roxul for the neighboring room (and hall way) being sandwiched by two sheets of drywall on each side with green glue inbetween? I was going to stagger the drywall seams between layers.

Polk Rti-A7's (fronts)
CsiA6 (center)
soon to be FxiA6's (sides & rears)
DSW600 sub
Emotiva XPA5

Would you recommend another sheet of drywall? Can you give me some practicle advise that makes the most impact?

thanks

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post #5 of 17 Old 09-11-2012, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Myke View Post

I appreciate the comments and considered many of the above metioned but aside from budgetary constraints, I wonder if that is overkill. The clips and channels sound good but could be costly. The system I'm running is fairly modet. I listed out my system below. I was going to use weather stripping for he doors, they're french doors too.
Ted, what about the roxul for the neighboring room (and hall way) being sandwiched by two sheets of drywall on each side with green glue inbetween? I was going to stagger the drywall seams between layers.
Polk Rti-A7's (fronts)
CsiA6 (center)
soon to be FxiA6's (sides & rears)
DSW600 sub
Emotiva XPA5
Would you recommend another sheet of drywall? Can you give me some practicle advise that makes the most impact?
thanks

Overkill is based entirely on your expectations. It may be, or it may not be. What are your real expectations? Are you watching loud movies and need to keep loud deep base from the other rooms? Or are you at normal levels and just don't want to disturb others in the house? How loud is the normal sound, and what kind is it (bass or other 'normal' frequencies) you want to keep from escaping? Are you ok in turning down just the subwoofer at night? All that would dictate what is, or isn't, overkill for own unique needs.

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post #6 of 17 Old 09-12-2012, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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I can appreciate the concept of expectations. I should have clarified that in my mind overkil would be soundprooing to the extent of a dedicated full blown theater room with all the bells and whistles. This will still be a bonus room but I will also be watching movies, no doubt loudly but not ear bleeding, in a 13'x20' room. My main concnern is for the room sharing a wall. The bass will be going too and the sub puts out up to 500w.

I'm really looking for cost effective bang for my buck.

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post #7 of 17 Old 09-12-2012, 02:54 PM
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Hi Myke,

 

OT, but what part of NC?

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post #8 of 17 Old 09-12-2012, 03:04 PM
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Decoupling with clips would would be a good start,especially if you think you might upgrade in the future, but if you're just treating the one wall, you may not see a benefit.

Adding a second layer of 5/8" drywall would be the basic element in anything you do. Don't pass on this option.

You could damp the drywall, but again, just treating one surface might render this wasted funds.

I'd drop the insulation unless you had some hanging around, as this will cost a lot per square foot and provide the least improvement of all the things being discussed.

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post #9 of 17 Old 09-12-2012, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey Nick, I'm in Apex. Wish I lived by the beach again. Great theater room too!! I wish I had more construction skills like that.

Thanks Ted, Would I have to decouple with clips on all four walls to take advantage of the clips decoupling effects, even though two walls are exterior? I was going to add drywall to both sides of the shared wall with GG inbetween the extra sheets, and insulate with standard or roxul. I have read many people discussing the benefits of roxul over standard insulation, mostly in recording studious though. I hate to ask a stupid question but will decoupling the wall really keep the sound from traveling to the bedroom next to the bonus? Would I have to still add extra drywall and dampening?

Right now i'm cutting out channels in the walls from the breaker panel to the attic to snake 2 20amp wires for the additional elec needs for the bonus room. Once complete I was going to move on the structural work like soundprooing.

Thanks guys

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post #10 of 17 Old 09-13-2012, 04:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Myke View Post

Hey Nick, I'm in Apex. Wish I lived by the beach again. Great theater room too!! I wish I had more construction skills like that.

 

Cool man, Thanks!  I have family that lives in Morrisville/Apex, its a nice place.  Your room is approx the same size as mine and a bonus room too, so I'll chime in with any ideas I may have.....

 

Also, check this out.  Its a a local group with many folks in our area.  Lots of good helpful people in there.

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post #11 of 17 Old 09-13-2012, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Nick, this could be very helpful. I fear I wont be to much help to anyone though, however, It would be noce to find other with the same interest (my friends think i'm going to far wiith this already).

How long did it take you to complete the room, and i'm assuming you work on it during the weekends too? And how did you soundproof your room?

btw, what does OT stand for?

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post #12 of 17 Old 09-14-2012, 04:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Myke View Post

Thanks Nick, this could be very helpful. I fear I wont be to much help to anyone though, however, It would be noce to find other with the same interest (my friends think i'm going to far wiith this already).

How long did it take you to complete the room, and i'm assuming you work on it during the weekends too? And how did you soundproof your room?

btw, what does OT stand for?

No worries man, weve got members all the way from completed HTs to future builders. Another benefit is local sales/trades of gear..... Anyways love to have you onboard if your interested.

Ive been in this house for 3yrs, so technically 3yrs. I didnt do much in the first year though as i was still "collecting" equipment....

Yup Im a weekend warrior. I live alone and in the country so i didnt do any soundproofing other than extra insulation on the shared interior wall. Furthermore i run an Infinite baffle sub so all bets are off on containment wink.gif

Oh, O.T. means Off Topic, sorry for derailing your thread. Drop me a line if you need a hand with anything!
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post #13 of 17 Old 09-16-2012, 07:03 PM - Thread Starter
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So reading this info i pasted below, if I have interior walls that are 16" on cnter then I'm screwed and should add 3 layers of drywall:eek:?

16" on center: Space your hat channel 16" on center if you are using 3 layers of drywall.

24" on center: (The recommended spacing of hat channel) Space your hat channel 24" on center if you are using 1 or 2 layers of drywall. We recommend two layers of drywall for drastically improved results. All sound tests you will see for any resilient sound clip is done with 24" spacing of hat channel.

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post #14 of 17 Old 09-17-2012, 05:35 AM
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It's also important that the clips be spaced every 48" along any given channel. You should be supplied with extensive installation instructions when you order your material. You should check on that.

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post #15 of 17 Old 01-16-2013, 04:10 PM
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Not to Necropost...but I'm doing it anyways......if I may piggyback on this thread for one moment:
I've got a small HT in the basement that has a fairly standard drop ceiling, the usual Home Depot (junkish) treatment.

What I want to do is isolate some of the noise my children make upstairs so I don't hear them so much when I'm in my Office which is 'next to' the room
that has the theater bits. (PJ, screen, etc). My home was built in the 60's, for whatever that's worth.

My question is this: Will stuffing (or simply layering) Roxul Safe N Sound batting provide any sort of improvement. I understand
the concept of Sound as Water, and what I am hoping to achieve is not, by any stretch of the imagination, sound proofing. I'm more
interested in taking the edge off the voies and TV sounds, *NOT* the vibrations of running feet, I'm more interested in filtering out high frequencies
rather than low (think: excited kids watching a movie upstairs). Right now, its almost like they are in the same room. as I would be directly beneath.

Right now above the standard HT ceiling tiles there is nothing but joists and pipes and then the plywood for the floor above, onto which a very old pine floor is affixed.
Can I get away with spending some $$$ on Roxul's Sound based product and achieve a bit of sound deadening....or will it be an exercise in throwing
money at the wrong way to fix a problem.

My ideal solution is go to HD, pick up a dozen bags of the stuff, and start popping tiles........but I have a feeling it wont be quite so easy, or is it?

Comments appreciated smile.gif

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post #16 of 17 Old 01-17-2013, 04:30 PM
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Insulation will more than likely be an improvement. You do not need to "stuff" it with more insulation than it needs - simply chose the correct thickness of insulation for the air space above the ceiling tiles. Standard pink fluffy building insulation will provide the best results, no need to purchase anything more expensive. And you can save yourself some cash by purchasing it from an insulation distributor instead of a home improvement store cool.gif

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post #17 of 17 Old 01-17-2013, 04:49 PM
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I'm not maybe quite so optimistic. I wager you'll find it just took the edge off. Not very effective below ~350Hz and as you pointed out, even less for footfall noise. Just my speculation.

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