Red Monkey Theater III Build - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 141 Old 09-24-2012, 01:03 PM - Thread Starter
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and so it begins...

Background:
This is my third theater, but my first dedicated theater. The last two home theaters in previous homes were more open, recreational rooms. This time around, I'll be building a dedicated room.

Usage:
85% movies
15% television/sports

Current State:
The room is currently finished, carpeted and unused.

Soundproofing:
Not a concern. This room is tucked away in the basement FAR from any living or bedrooms.

Budget:
I'd say budget is small compared to most of the builds on this site. I will be doing ALL the work on my own and trying to find deals on all audio/video hardware.

Ideas:
- I want the biggest screen humanly possible without making my eyes bleed from the front row. My previous builds have had 110" screens, but I have more width now and I'd like to go larger. I'm considering in-wall speakers and a shallow false wall in order to make up for the fact I want a larger screen and theater depth is not that great.

Equipment List:
- Sunfire XT Series in-wall L/C/R
L/R - CRMW-3 : http://www.sunfire.com/productdetail.asp?id=20
C - CRW3-C : http://www.sunfire.com/productdetail.asp?id=21
Surround - CRM-2BIP : http://www.sunfire.com/productdetail.asp?id=26
Pioneer 1522-SK Receiver
Xbox One (soon)

Control:
Android Tablet with IRule

Subwoofers:
Two SI HT 15" sealed DIY w/3000 watt iNuke DSP

Seating:
Fusion Jive's in the following configuration:
Front Row: |0|00|0|
Back Row: |0|0|0|0|

Screen:
134" 2.35:1 AT Screen (DIY Spandex)

Colors:
Black ceiling, trim, wainscoting
Red Claret - GOM Fabric panels

Lots more to come as I do more research!

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post #2 of 141 Old 09-24-2012, 01:16 PM
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If budget allows I always recommend a layout service, best thing I and most people say they have done.

http://shop.avscience.com/Design-Services_c_27.html

or

http://thehometheaterbook.com/home-theater-layout-service/

-----------------------------------------------
Chase "Fetch"


Current Theater Build
 

New House Build

 

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post #3 of 141 Old 09-24-2012, 01:29 PM
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Welcome aboard. My room is very similar to yours in size (approx. 12-1/2' x 19'). Take a look at some of my pics to see what I did with in-wall speakers and a very shallow false wall.

I see couches on your floor plan. Is that the intent or are you thinking of reclining theater seats? If you are going with couches, will they recline? That will determine how far back you can place your front row.

FYI-My front row eyeballs will be about 9-1/2' from a 115" wide 2.35:1 screen. Based on some preliminary testing, I wouldn't want my front row any closer than that. Were the screens in your previous builds 110" wide or diagonal? Were they 16:9 or 2.35:1?

I'm assuming you want that back row on a riser? What is your ceiling height?

Will your equipment be located outside the room?
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post #4 of 141 Old 09-24-2012, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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cdika17,
Design is part of the fun and I'd rather do the research/design myself. It's the part that is the most fun for me (other than the end product) smile.gif

Spaceman,
Thanks for responding. I'll be reading your entire build thread tonight. The seating will indeed be reclining theater seats. I'm thinking two banks of 4 seats. |0|00|0| in front and |0|0|0|0|
I'm thinking of Fusion Jive so far. http://www.rtheaters.com/FusionCollection/FC-Jive-1013.html I will be building some type of riser for the 2nd row of seating.

Ceiling is 9'

The screen will be a 2.35:1 I'll have to figure out some type of masking system later in the build.

The room behind the screen wall is fairly open with the exception of a furnace and water heater. I think I could build a bump-out to house all the speakers and this would make the existing wall the screen wall. This would give me a full 19' from back of theater to screen. This would give me a greater distance to first row and also allow flexibility in speaker selection. All of my audio/video components will be in the back room as well (room behind screen).

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post #5 of 141 Old 09-25-2012, 06:07 AM
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If you will be using reclining theater seats, you will need a minimum of 6-1/2' from back of front row to back of 2nd row. You'll see in my thread that my riser is 8' deep. This allowed me to place 4" of acoustic treatments on the back wall, pull the 2nd row a little bit off the back wall (not as much as I would have liked) and have enough room for the 2nd row to recline without hitting the 1st row. I think you'll end up with something similar, which will place your front row eyeballs at 9-1/2' to 10' from the screen, rather than the 11'-9" you currently show.

Is there a reason you chose 5.1 vs. 7.1? 19' is pretty tight but I think you can still get that 2nd row far enough off the back wall to benefit from 7.1. I would suggest wiring for it in case you decide to try it later.
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post #6 of 141 Old 09-25-2012, 07:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Spaceman,
Thanks for the info. I've been going through your build thread and I'm most of the way through it. You have a sweet setup. I will probably use something almost identical to your stage. Yes I just put in 11'9" as a placeholder. I appreciate your measurement info and realize its probably closer. I like the size of your riser so I'm guessing I'll be using something very similar to that as well.

I am certainly going 7.1. The only problem is the rear surrounds will probably be in the ceiling due to the window in the rear left corner of the theater.

You wouldn't want to make an extra 80 fabric panels would ya wink.gif
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post #7 of 141 Old 09-25-2012, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

You wouldn't want to make an extra 80 fabric panels would ya wink.gif

For the right price.wink.gif
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post #8 of 141 Old 09-26-2012, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are pics of the room in current state. I'm curious to see whats under the soffit but sucks that I don't think there is much i'll be able to do about it.






I'm thinking the first steps will be to remove the lights/faceplates. Then maybe pull off the baseboards and roll up the carpet.
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post #9 of 141 Old 09-27-2012, 06:56 AM
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Let us know what is lurking in that soffit. Hopefully, something that can be pushed closer to the side wall. Then you can do a matching soffit on the other side. Headroom could get tricky on your riser. You are going to want to keep your screen as high as you can to minimize riser height. You should also consider using a mini riser just under the footprint of your back seats. Let's say you determine that you need a 12" riser. You could build an 9" high main riser that fills the width of your room and then use a 3" mini riser just under the seats to achieve the overall height while maximizing headroom.

What are the round things I'm seeing on the bottom of the soffit? HVAC supplies? You should plan on adding a return in the room.

Looks like we have the same intercom system.
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post #10 of 141 Old 12-02-2012, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I finally had a chance to do some demo work














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post #11 of 141 Old 12-02-2012, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Let us know what is lurking in that soffit. Hopefully, something that can be pushed closer to the side wall. Then you can do a matching soffit on the other side. Headroom could get tricky on your riser. You are going to want to keep your screen as high as you can to minimize riser height. You should also consider using a mini riser just under the footprint of your back seats. Let's say you determine that you need a 12" riser. You could build an 9" high main riser that fills the width of your room and then use a 3" mini riser just under the seats to achieve the overall height while maximizing headroom.
What are the round things I'm seeing on the bottom of the soffit? HVAC supplies? You should plan on adding a return in the room.
Looks like we have the same intercom system.

The round things in the soffit are supply and return. The basement is floor heated so they will only act as return/cooling.

Any ideas on how to do rear surround with the riser and window?

I also don't see how i'm going to be able to put can lights above the screen with the soffit
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post #12 of 141 Old 12-05-2012, 08:24 AM
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Hey neighbor, I am subscribed. Looks like fun smile.gif

I like the idea of bumping out the screen wall into your storage/mechanical space, you may want to consider insulation and double drywall on that wall to keep the noise from the mechanical room to a minimum, but bumping out the wall opens up more speaker options.

That said, in-wall speakers would work just fine too, and I have been very happy switching from towers and bookshelves to in-wall. You want to ensure you buy an in-wall speaker that is enclosed and not open baffle (IMHO). I have used both on several occasions and the enclosed in-wall speakers always sound much better to me.

For the back wall, I don't see much choice outside of rear in-ceiling speakers for the rears, or you may just want to wire it up for now and concentrate on 5.1. If you do go in-ceiling for the rears you will want a speaker that is designed like this:
http://www.definitivetech.com/products/uiw-rcs-iii


That is enclosed and has the angled baffle for the drivers and tweeters.

You could also do in-wall speakers as well for cheaper.

For lighting, what about sconces on the side walls and a combination of can lights in the ceiling? Put them on their own switches with dimmers and you will be able to control how much light you have in the room easily.

What are you thinking in terms of screen material and projector? Should be some good PJ sales between now and February. Is 3D something you are looking for?
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post #13 of 141 Old 12-05-2012, 08:35 AM
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Do those supply and return ducts stop at the wall with the window or do they continue to serve other parts of the house?
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post #14 of 141 Old 12-05-2012, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

Hey neighbor, I am subscribed. Looks like fun smile.gif
I like the idea of bumping out the screen wall into your storage/mechanical space, you may want to consider insulation and double drywall on that wall to keep the noise from the mechanical room to a minimum, but bumping out the wall opens up more speaker options.
That said, in-wall speakers would work just fine too, and I have been very happy switching from towers and bookshelves to in-wall. You want to ensure you buy an in-wall speaker that is enclosed and not open baffle (IMHO). I have used both on several occasions and the enclosed in-wall speakers always sound much better to me.
For the back wall, I don't see much choice outside of rear in-ceiling speakers for the rears, or you may just want to wire it up for now and concentrate on 5.1. If you do go in-ceiling for the rears you will want a speaker that is designed like this:
http://www.definitivetech.com/products/uiw-rcs-iii
You could also do in-wall speakers as well for cheaper.
That is enclosed and has the angled baffle for the drivers and tweeters.
For lighting, what about sconces on the side walls and a combination of can lights in the ceiling? Put them on their own switches with dimmers and you will be able to control how much light you have in the room easily.
What are you thinking in terms of screen material and projector? Should be some good PJ sales between now and February. Is 3D something you are looking for?

Welcome ack_bk! I will certainly be doing double drywall and insulation on the inside wall to keep furnace noise out. I have a Geo-thermal unit that can get quite noisy so that is a must.

My preference is to not have to use in-wall speakers (I'd love to actually build them) but the space I'm working with behind the wall is pretty narrow due to the backup furnace and water pressure tank.

I'm wondering if I'd have any problems with placing the speakers against the side walls of the bump out. Kind of like this:

I've heard that placing speakers next or against walls is not preferable, but maybe that wouldn't matter since the wall would end flush to the speaker fronts

I've also come up with an idea for the rear surrounds. Since I'm going to be building a removable window plug out to cover the window, I'm thinking I could mount a speaker on the upper right inside of the window and have the fronts flush with the wall which would be covered with fabric anyways. This would allow for pretty good placement.
Here is an example of what I'm talking about:


I'm unsure about the projector. I've got an old 720p Sanyo that I can play with for awhile to determine screen size preferences, etc.., but I plan on getting something next year. I really don't care much about 3D at the moment. I'm probably not going to be buying something until next summer so who knows what will be out there by that timeframe.

For the screen, I plan on building a DIY scope screen as big as I can. I'll most likely use Seymour material.
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post #15 of 141 Old 12-05-2012, 10:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Do those supply and return ducts stop at the wall with the window or do they continue to serve other parts of the house?

Spaceman, The return (duct closest to the side wall) continues and goes into the wall. The supply duct ends right at the end of the theater where the circle vent drops down in front of the window.

You thinking try to move that one to the other side? It does have branches into the adjacent room so those runs would be much longer, but might be doable? I'll post some better pictures of the duct situation tonight.
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post #16 of 141 Old 12-05-2012, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

Welcome ack_bk! I will certainly be doing double drywall and insulation on the inside wall to keep furnace noise out. I have a Geo-thermal unit that can get quite noisy so that is a must.
My preference is to not have to use in-wall speakers (I'd love to actually build them) but the space I'm working with behind the wall is pretty narrow due to the backup furnace and water pressure tank.
I'm wondering if I'd have any problems with placing the speakers against the side walls of the bump out. Kind of like this:

I've heard that placing speakers next or against walls is not preferable, but maybe that wouldn't matter since the wall would end flush to the speaker fronts

I would be concerned about placing speakers that close to boundary walls. I would ask around the forum but based on my experiences most speakers sound best when pulled a few feet from a boundary wall, but it depends on the type of speaker and design. I would definitely stay away from any rear ported designs, and go for something sealed. Since you are open to building your own speakers, you should be able to design something that would work well in the space, but yes in-wall would make you life easier but that would come at a cost ($$).

Quote:
I've also come up with an idea for the rear surrounds. Since I'm going to be building a removable window plug out to cover the window, I'm thinking I could mount a speaker on the upper right inside of the window and have the fronts flush with the wall which would be covered with fabric anyways. This would allow for pretty good placement.
Here is an example of what I'm talking about:

Very cool. That could work...
Quote:
I'm unsure about the projector. I've got an old 720p Sanyo that I can play with for awhile to determine screen size preferences, etc.., but I plan on getting something next year. I really don't care much about 3D at the moment. I'm probably not going to be buying something until next summer so who knows what will be out there by that timeframe.
For the screen, I plan on building a DIY scope screen as big as I can. I'll most likely use Seymour material.

I am using the Seymour Centerstage XD material and it works very well. I had them cut it with max tilt so moire is not visible at all from the seats. I have been very happy with the material and recommend it. For the money, I don't think you can beat it.

I will be starting my DIY sub project in the next week or so, and will be sharing details in my thread. Would be happy to help you any way I can as I am learning as I go. I am buying this most likely to measure in REW as measuring your room:
http://www.minidsp.com/products/acoustic-measurement/umik-1

So once I get this all figured out sometime early next year I would be happy to help you measure your room and adjust.
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post #17 of 141 Old 02-06-2013, 04:16 PM
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So, why does your sub thread have more updated pics than your build thread? tongue.gif We need updates!!!!

-




Is it solipsistic in here, or is it just me?
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post #18 of 141 Old 02-06-2013, 07:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Haha well played BllDo. I've got a ton of pics ready to go. I'll post em up this weekend. Working two jobs, rugrats and part-time theater building is enough to crush a guy.

I've got most of the boring stuff out of the way, and some more of the design stuff coming up so good time to get this thread back in motion.
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post #19 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Moved around some of the studs in front screen wall and started insulation



Played around with some speaker locations


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post #20 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Finished with Insulation




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post #21 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Running TONS of wire and smurf tube








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post #22 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Sheetrocked front wall and put one coat of mud on to seal it.


Also started work on 10" stage






Started 12" riser
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post #23 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Some color samples


Wife loves Claret as it was our wedding color
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post #24 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Created window plug.

It's just a 2x4 frame, insulated with 5/8 rock. I wrapped it in carpet pad so it wouldn't scratch the window base/sill.

I picked up some metal brackets and screwed it in flush to the wall
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post #25 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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More riser and stage work


Bring in the sand. Home depot play sand was always dry at my location.


Here you can see the window plug installed.
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post #26 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I ordered a sheetrock lift from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Pentagon-Series-Drywall-Professional-Quality/dp/B001U4PHXK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1360431501&sr=8-1&keywords=sheetrock+lift

It worked awesome and I sold it the same week on craigslist. A lot cheaper than renting.










Finished sheetrocking the ceiling and soffit and installed 12 4" lights.


I'll be using CREE LED bulb/trim kits from Home Depot.
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post #27 of 141 Old 02-09-2013, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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post #28 of 141 Old 02-20-2013, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Ceiling Texture complete


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post #29 of 141 Old 02-20-2013, 12:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Added Bass Traps. 2" OC703





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post #30 of 141 Old 02-20-2013, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Primed Ceiling and walls, painted 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Tricorn Black:









I installed twelve 4" LED CREE lights from Home Depot


I spray painted the lights and vent covers with Rust-Oleum Flat Black
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