Getting warm in my theater room, options to pull out hot air? - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 72 Old 06-25-2013, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post

Adding the ducting is possible. Done all the time when theaters are retrofitted for systems, etc.. Just means you are back in the construction phase after demo, to remove any material in the soffits, to pull the flex ducting for the supplies. Returns can be done by just using fiberglass duct.

As for the 2ton car with a 100hp engine, you would actually be surprised what you can do with that, since it is done all the time with cars, so your analogy died in the water.

Sure anything's possible but often not practical... Kinda like that 100 hp in a 2 ton car. Have fun with that!

In any event I'm clearly suggesting an alternative to an on wall minisplit in situations where demolition and running additional ducts isn't practical. What's so hard to understand about that?
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post #62 of 72 Old 06-25-2013, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twells View Post

Glad to hear it's all worked out. Did you connect the mini split to all of your returns and supplies or are you using two to exchange air with the basement?

The ducted mini split is hooked up to two supplies (6" and 8") and two returns (6" and 8") all of which are in my theater/equipment closet. The only other thing in the room is a 110 cfm in line fan that draws out of the soffit where the projector is located. The projector is closed in the soffit except for an area in front of the lens.
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post #63 of 72 Old 06-26-2013, 03:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksharp4 View Post

The ducted mini split is hooked up to two supplies (6" and 8") and two returns (6" and 8") all of which are in my theater/equipment closet. The only other thing in the room is a 110 cfm in line fan that draws out of the soffit where the projector is located. The projector is closed in the soffit except for an area in front of the lens.

Thanks... I have a similar set up (minus the mini split and projector in the soffit) where I'm exchanging air with my basement which works well 99% of the time but I like the idea of the flexibility of a dedicated a/c but I don't want to give up the air exchange.
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post #64 of 72 Old 06-26-2013, 05:53 AM
 
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twells, I think that you are the one that is not understanding how minsplits with flex ductwork are done. Also the fact that the analogy of a 100hp motor in a 2ton car is no where what we are talking about. If the person wants fiberglass ducts or metal, yes they are going to have to do some demo. If they go with a minisplit, you are just talking a couple of holes, and has already has been stated most are either up front if there is a room behind the screen, or along the sides if there are rooms on those two sides.

It is obvious that you are not able to look at this from outside the box, and want to look at it as a problem when trying to correct, not a solution. See the following http://www.oldhouseonline.com/easy-hvac-retrofit-for-old-houses/ You can also use something like a Fantech power fan to pull air out of the room, to help exhaust any hot air, which will help with air movement. You will need a muffler inline to cut down on the noise, but again, it is a retrofit option, which means you are not cutting the wall inside the home theater, you are doing it from the other side, which should just be gypsum board.

Also see this on hvac-talk.com http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?166607-Help-me-cool-my-home-theater-room Anymore info, you are free to do a search for further, or consult with a local environmental engineer in your area that deals with movie theater construction, and retrofitting in existing construction for hvac.
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post #65 of 72 Old 06-26-2013, 07:39 AM
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It's all good...I think you're just thinking about a different situation from the one i was responding to.

Situation: 'it's getting warm in my theater and it seems like the single supply/return (or whatever the situation) I have isn't enough' (see the 'engine' isn't missing, it's just too small ;-)). Running more ducting to central A/C isn't practical.

Possible solutions:

1) add dead vents to exchange air with nearby rooms. This may or may not add enough cooling (as in ksharp4's case not enough) or you might not have adjacent rooms suitable for air exchange. Clearly if you can add ducts into an adjacent room AND you don't mind installing an air handler in that room then you're in good shape, problem solved.

2) if you can't do 1) practically then perhaps you can install an in-theater on wall minisplit. A number of folks have done this and say it works well. However, someone (stitch1 who I was responding to) asked if the minisplit could be installed behind the screen wall (maybe simply for asthetics). The answer is 'no, air will not circulate effectively through a screen wall.'

I'm simply asking why you couldn't install a ducted minisplit on the ceiling behind the screen wall with ducts going to the sides or top of the screen wall as an alternative to an in-theater on wall minisplit in option 2). I haven't seen this done before but I can't see why it couldn't be done (the air handlers look to be as quiet as the on wall versions) but I don't have personal experience with ducted minisplits so there may be a reason... I realize that folks don't tend to think of ducted minisplits used this way... so yes, you're correct, I'm thinking 'inside the box' (pun intended).
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post #66 of 72 Old 06-26-2013, 10:58 AM
 
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You can as I stated install mini split ducting into the soffit's, because they are flex duct. You just have to be able to get a fish stick in there to pull it along the soffit, if there is enough open space up there. If not, that means opening up sections along the length, removing any insulation materials that are packed up there, or manually route the flex duct through the soffit to where you want it. Keep in mind that depending on the size of the space, dictates how many flex ducts will be needed to supply air.

As for placing the unit behind the screen, there are ones made for being placed out of the way, with a return that would be under the screen. Otherwise, you are still going to have to have to locate the inside unit in say the utility room, with the back of it against the wall where the screen is, or near where you can run a duct system, for the returns, but also allow routing of the supply on both sidewalls for the supply vents into the room.

Engineers call this placing the cart before the horse, and not thinking about the consequences, until everything comes to a screeching halt, which in turns creates a disaster. Also another reason why you see separate rooms with server room cooling and temperature monitoring systems in those private theaters that were properly thought out from the beginning, not just thought of in a person's head.

Unless you have everything on paper, have worked with environmental engineers to calculate heat load from the equipment, people sitting in there, when you close the door, that is designed to not only seal off noise, but any air exchange too and from the space, you start creating dangerous situations, that then have to be addressed by either retrofitting the environmental systems into the space after the fact, which means yes tearing into the construction, or doing a complete demo of the room, and redoing from square one, because the room turned from being what a person thought would be perfect, but in turn has created a disaster, that just looks pretty, but in reality is not safe in quite a few aspects.
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post #67 of 72 Old 06-29-2013, 09:46 AM
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I had a chance to watch a movie with 4 people in the room. A/C worked perfect. This is exactly what I was looking for.
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post #68 of 72 Old 05-07-2014, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doatis View Post

I strongly second the recommendation of a mini-split system. Have just started using them this summer in a big addition (which includes a dedicated 10' tall basement home theater space). These systems are efficient, quiet, relatively inexpensive, very easy to install and can also serve as heat pumps in cold weather. I did the installation myself except for the final line vacuuming and charging. I think I took pictures of each step of the process which I'd be glad to share. You have (depending on the height of the concrete) what looks to be short and easy access to the exterior.

Strongly recommend.


I would love to see the pictures, do you still have them available?   I was thinking about this too, and thought I would like to do a lot of the work as I can get the equipment directly.

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post #69 of 72 Old 05-07-2014, 12:32 PM
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Another vote for the mini split

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post #70 of 72 Old 05-16-2014, 11:14 AM
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Nick, what do you think you are going to do?

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #71 of 72 Old 05-16-2014, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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I haven't done anything yet. Too many unexpected bills lately totally enough to put in a few mini-splits.
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post #72 of 72 Old 05-16-2014, 01:41 PM
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Led bulbs from cree work VERY well btw , great color overall and cool. They make some mild clicking sound when you first turn them on.

Blazar!
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