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post #1 of 46 Old 10-04-2012, 12:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi folks. My name's Ethan, I've been a member for several years now, but this is my first post (I think) in this particular forum. Some of you might know me from the 5-way $1k Subwoofer Shootout my brother and I put together. Well it's finally time for my brother to build his own dedicated theatre room, and since Architecture is what I do for a living, I came up with a concept for him. Here it is:

(Please click on images for large views)




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Now there are going to be a few changes in the actual build, we know this already. For example, he no longer wants a cinema scope screen, he want a 16:9 screen. Also I've placed four Rythmik F25 subwoofers in the room, but I believe he's going to go with custom subs with 18" drivers.

Equipment List (my brother wrote this part):


1. AVR = Probably a Denon 4520. I *might* go with Emo amps and an Integra pre/pro I'm just not sure yet. As long as the Denon can do justice to my JBL's, which I'm pretty sure it can, I'll stick with that.

2. Speakers:
a. Mains = JBL LC2
b. Center = JBL LC2
c. Surrounds = JBL L820
d. Rear Surrounds = JBL L820
e. Subwoofer = State-of-the-Art😉

3. 160" Acoustically Transparent Screen = SeymourAV. I still might go cinescope I just won't know 100% till I get the projector and fire it up. I'm only leaning toward 16:9 because it'll be 50% for gaming, 30% TV watching, and 20% movies. We'll see I guess.

4. Projector = I'm leaning toward the Panny AE8000 because Epson is known for having too much lag for gaming. I'm once again not 100%, but I'm leaning heavily toward this one.

5. Lighting control = To Be Determined

6. HTPC:
a. Case = nMedia PC 2000B
b. Power Supply = Corsair HX750
c. CPU = To Be Determined
d. CPU cooling = Noctua NH-C14
e. Mobo = To Be Determined
f. RAM = 16gb G. Skill
g. SSD = Kingston HyperX 3K 240gb
h. HDDs = 2x Samsung 1TB RAID0, 1x Samsung 2TB (backup)
i. GPU = GeForce GTX660ti
j. OS = Windows 7


We're going to do some of the work ourselves, but most of it my brother is going to hire some professionals to complete to ensure an attractive finish and reliable systems.

So this is it for now, I need to finish up the floor plan to submit for permitting and then it's time to order materials. We will need some help from the experts here with a couple areas I'm not quite sure how to handle, and in the mean time if anyone has some tips feel free to offer. smile.gif

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post #2 of 46 Old 10-04-2012, 12:38 PM
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1. We need some room dimensions; eyeball distance(s) from screen; screen size, etc.

2. What is your plan for soundproofing and/or acoustical treatment?
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post #3 of 46 Old 10-04-2012, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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1. We need some room dimensions; eyeball distance(s) from screen; screen size, etc.
dimensions are on the first render smile.gif
viewing distance = 11'-0"±
screen size in equipment list says 160"
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2. What is your plan for soundproofing and/or acoustical treatment?
2 layers 5/8" gyp bd on hat channels with green glue (i think). Also the plan doesn't show it (cuz I made these renders for advertising for my company and I didn't want to show it) but the stairs will have an enclosed landing at the bottom with a door to help with sound proofing

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post #4 of 46 Old 10-04-2012, 01:13 PM
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Great looking renders! Any concern with all the hard surfaces and how that will affect sound quality?

The MacBeth Theater (flood resilient build)
 

Play like a Raven

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post #5 of 46 Old 10-04-2012, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Great looking renders! Any concern with all the hard surfaces and how that will affect sound quality?

No I don't think the surfaces will present a problem. There'll be material behind the mains, the panels on the wall, the columns and furniture that should all break things up. He's probably going to put a rug down too right in front of the screen. For an audiophile that might not be sufficient, but we're movie guys so as long as the gunshots and explosions sound tight, we're good. cool.gif

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post #6 of 46 Old 10-04-2012, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

1. We need some room dimensions; eyeball distance(s) from screen; screen size, etc.
2. What is your plan for soundproofing and/or acoustical treatment?

Ill be in touch with Ted for specifics but I know for sure every framed wall will be a 1/2" from the concrete and the ceiling will have clips and hat channel. Every will get 5/8 DD and GG as well. As far as reflections I'll have an area rug in front of the pj to soak up some light and help with reflections. Other then that there'll be panels on the walls and behind the screen.

I know the screen is huge and way past optimal but I like seeing just screen when I'm watching a movie. My wall will be 18' wide and I plan to take up as much space as possible with the screen without sacrificing picture quality, within reason. I'll either do 160" 16:9 or 163-174" 2.35.
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post #7 of 46 Old 10-04-2012, 03:31 PM
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I know the screen is huge and way past optimal but I like seeing just screen when I'm watching a movie. My wall will be 18' wide and I plan to take up as much space as possible with the screen without sacrificing picture quality, within reason. I'll either do 160" 16:9 or 163-174" 2.35.

My room and seating distances are similar to yours, with a front row at 10'. My screen is 108" in 16:9 and 136" in 2.35 - I wouldn't want it any bigger than that from the front row. 160" from that distance would be completely overwhelming and uncomfortable IMO. You'll be turning your head all the time, and I can't imaging playing games on that. Strongly recommend you test out those sizes at your seating distances before you pull the trigger.

Also, that screen is enormous for those projectors - I'd be very concerned that you won't get an acceptably bright image, especially with any ambient light in the room. Hopefully someone with those PJ's will chime in...

Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

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post #8 of 46 Old 10-04-2012, 05:14 PM
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My room and seating distances are similar to yours, with a front row at 10'. My screen is 108" in 16:9 and 136" in 2.35 - I wouldn't want it any bigger than that from the front row. 160" from that distance would be completely overwhelming and uncomfortable IMO. You'll be turning your head all the time, and I can't imaging playing games on that. Strongly recommend you test out those sizes at your seating distances before you pull the trigger.
Also, that screen is enormous for those projectors - I'd be very concerned that you won't get an acceptably bright image, especially with any ambient light in the room. Hopefully someone with those PJ's will chime in...
Jeff

Yah I realize most people, including those on the forums, would never go that big for the reasons you mentioned but my friends and I love that feeling. I don't mind turning my head. I do it all day anyway and as long as I'm not watching tennis I think I'll be ok.tongue.gif Really though I sit in the front of movie theaters and the only thing I don't like is looking up which won't be a problem here.

I do agree with you on the video games though. Like I said I won't make my decision until I buy a pj and shoot an image on the wall. However, my bro has an Epson 8350 and several times we've watched movies at 160", around 152" cinescope, and we were around 12' back and I definitely have no problem going larger. Much larger. He said he played Mass Effect 3 the other night at 150" and loved it which surprised me because he doesn't share my love for big screens as much. We'll see though. smile.gif

The 8350 is rated at 2000 lumens and the 8000 is rated for 2400 lumens so I *should* be fine. Once again you could be right though. Hopefully I won't have too much longer to find out.
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post #9 of 46 Old 10-05-2012, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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...He said he played Mass Effect 3 the other night at 150" and loved it which surprised me because he doesn't share my love for big screens as much. ....

Only a guy with plans for a 160" screen could tell a guy with a 150" screen he doesn't love big screens enough. tongue.gif

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post #10 of 46 Old 10-09-2012, 06:52 PM
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Only a guy with plans for a 160" screen could tell a guy with a 150" screen he doesn't love big screens enough. tongue.gif

Hmmm. I guess I should've said "doesn't like sitting as close to big screens as me". Better? smile.gif
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post #11 of 46 Old 10-10-2012, 06:54 AM
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Looks like a fun space. I'm definitely going to be following along. The renders look really sharp - they show you guys have put a lot of thought into this already.

You've made a couple choices that look slightly dubious to me, but they're trade-offs.

The side surround locations are so close to the seating positions, it'll be really tough to find a convincing surround image outside the sweet spot. The asymmetrical space makes it hard to do anything else, but I'd be interested in hearing any thoughts you guys had about coming to this conclusion - maybe you considered reorganizing the space some to get a wider seating area? Even just elevating the side surround loudspeakers would help, IMO.

Have you gone through the projector calculators for the models you're considering? I don't think you can get the largest images you're talking about at that throw - you may have to slide the projector back a few feet - but that probably won't be a problem, given the use of that space.

Just curious - do you have a projected schedule for getting this done?

One last question. Where are you planning to stack the equipment - I haven't been able to identify a rack or anything in the renders - under the stairs?

Fred
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post #12 of 46 Old 10-10-2012, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks like a fun space. I'm definitely going to be following along. The renders look really sharp - they show you guys have put a lot of thought into this already.
Thanks Fred, it took a lot of time and redesign after redesign before I could finally complete them.

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The side surround locations are so close to the seating positions, it'll be really tough to find a convincing surround image outside the sweet spot. The asymmetrical space makes it hard to do anything else, but I'd be interested in hearing any thoughts you guys had about coming to this conclusion - maybe you considered reorganizing the space some to get a wider seating area? Even just elevating the side surround loudspeakers would help, IMO.
Yes, the side surrounds are very problematic. We actually aren't really sure where the best place to put them is. I suggested maybe putting them on the opposite sides of the column wraps facing away from the seating so that they bounce sound off the adjacent walls, but elevating the speakers is a good start, thanks.

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Have you gone through the projector calculators for the models you're considering? I don't think you can get the largest images you're talking about at that throw - you may have to slide the projector back a few feet - but that probably won't be a problem, given the use of that space.
Yeah you are right, the projector might have to move back a few feet especially if my bro goes with a Panny. I have it located where it is now based on the 2.1x zoom of my Epson 8350. *EDIT* Been a while since I looked at the calculators. Seems the Panny has a 2.0x zoom, but either way the projector is definitely going to need to drop back to about 15'-6" from the screen. That might put it over the bar where the pendants are. Hmmmmmmm.

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Just curious - do you have a projected schedule for getting this done?
Yeah, we hope to start in a month. I think. Adam needs to give me a date actually.

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One last question. Where are you planning to stack the equipment - I haven't been able to identify a rack or anything in the renders - under the stairs?
Fred
Also another possible problem. Right now if you look at render #3, to the left of the light switch is what appears to be a mirror. That is actually a glass shower door with a heavy black tint, and the light switch is for the equipment sitting behind that door. That's our equipment closet. However, I'm not entirely sure how effective that will be with getting a signal from remotes into that closet from the couch, we might have to set up a relay (haven't really shopped for that yet, Adam probably already knows what to get).


Appreciate the questions Fred. I'm hoping they'll spark some suggestions too. smile.gif

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post #13 of 46 Old 10-10-2012, 01:18 PM
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Beautiful design.smile.gif

The glass door will interfere with ir signals but an ir repeater system can solve that issue.

And now for some questions:

Are those front columns solid? Is detail winning out over audio performance here, by introducing near boundary issues when the width is generous enough to design around this?

Aren't the side surround speakers mounted too low? Why not dipoles for the side surrounds in that narrow a space? The side surrounds should also be at the ends of the couch,
but I'm guessing the lolly poles are the limitation here. And aren't the rear surrounds place too far apart, with one buried in the corner?

Will the projector light up a huge AT screen at a .9 real world gain, with adequate lumens?

The rear surrounds also have some audio issues as placed. They are too far apart and one is buried in the corner.

Won't those front sconces be a source of rattles, being so close to large and generous drivers? (Few people give any thought to rattle proofing.)
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post #14 of 46 Old 10-10-2012, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Beautiful design.smile.gif
The glass door will interfere with ir signals but an ir repeater system can solve that issue.
Good to know, thanks. smile.gif

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And now for some questions:
Are those front columns solid? Is detail winning out over audio performance here, by introducing near boundary issues when the width is generous enough to design around this?
Had not considered that. I thought the columns on the walls housing the sconces are far enough from the mains to not be an issue? They are purely aesthetic, so they can be resized or deleted if Adam wants.

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Aren't the side surround speakers mounted too low? Why not dipoles for the side surrounds in that narrow a space? The side surrounds should also be at the ends of the couch, but I'm guessing the lolly poles are the limitation here. And aren't the rear surrounds place too far apart, with one buried in the corner?
Yeah as stated above the side surround are problematic. (You are correct the lolly columns are restricting options there.) Aaaaand all the speakers (except the subs) are already purchased (Adam couldn't resist a sale) so dipoles are probably not an option. What do you think of my idea above, to mount them facing away from the couch?

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Will the projector light up a huge AT screen at a .9 real world gain, with adequate lumens?
The Epson 8350 in my HT is projected straight onto a wall, painted a normal grey paint. At 150" on ECO mode there is little, if any noticeable dimness. At 160" there is though. But we're guessing with a projector with more lumens and projected on an actual screen, there shouldn't be a problem. Not sure about 3D mode though.

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The rear surrounds also have some audio issues as placed. They are too far apart and one is buried in the corner.
Yeah. Not sure what to do there. Suggestions? confused.gif

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Won't those front sconces be a source of rattles, being so close to large and generous drivers? (Few people give any thought to rattle proofing.)
Ha, I think everything in the basement is going to need rattle-proofed. I've modeled up some prospective sub designs in WinISD and we are looking at hitting 115db @ 10hz before room gain. So if you got rattle-proofing suggestions - please do share!

Oh and - does anyone have any objections to the can lights? My bro doesn't want any for sound-proofing reasons but I have concerns about it turning into a cave without them...

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post #15 of 46 Old 10-10-2012, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Beautiful design.smile.gif
The glass door will interfere with ir signals but an ir repeater system can solve that issue.
And now for some questions:
Are those front columns solid? Is detail winning out over audio performance here, by introducing near boundary issues when the width is generous enough to design around this?
Aren't the side surround speakers mounted too low? Why not dipoles for the side surrounds in that narrow a space? The side surrounds should also be at the ends of the couch,
but I'm guessing the lolly poles are the limitation here. And aren't the rear surrounds place too far apart, with one buried in the corner?
Will the projector light up a huge AT screen at a .9 real world gain, with adequate lumens?
The rear surrounds also have some audio issues as placed. They are too far apart and one is buried in the corner.
Won't those front sconces be a source of rattles, being so close to large and generous drivers? (Few people give any thought to rattle proofing.)

The columns are unfortunately my lally columns which actually have been placed there so I could remove the single column right in the middle of the room. Basically it would've been right in the middle of the couch so yah they're there to stay. The side surrounds will NOT be where they're at in the rendering. I'm gonna come up with some solution. Possibly ceiling mounted and angled down. Idk for sure yet but yah I told Ethan they can't be there they just looked good in the rendering.

As far as the back surrounds yes those too aren't where they will end up being it was more for show. They will be about 2ft above the sink and closer together.

The pj I'm not sure about honestly. I know Ethan's Epson 8350 can easily light up a 160" image and the Panny is good for another 400 lumens, on paper anyway. So I'm *imagining* it will work. Whether it will remains to be seen. I'm gonna buy the pj first and talk with Chris? at SeymourAV.
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Looks like a fun space. I'm definitely going to be following along. The renders look really sharp - they show you guys have put a lot of thought into this already.
You've made a couple choices that look slightly dubious to me, but they're trade-offs.
The side surround locations are so close to the seating positions, it'll be really tough to find a convincing surround image outside the sweet spot. The asymmetrical space makes it hard to do anything else, but I'd be interested in hearing any thoughts you guys had about coming to this conclusion - maybe you considered reorganizing the space some to get a wider seating area? Even just elevating the side surround loudspeakers would help, IMO.
Have you gone through the projector calculators for the models you're considering? I don't think you can get the largest images you're talking about at that throw - you may have to slide the projector back a few feet - but that probably won't be a problem, given the use of that space.
Just curious - do you have a projected schedule for getting this done?
One last question. Where are you planning to stack the equipment - I haven't been able to identify a rack or anything in the renders - under the stairs?
Fred

Ethan already answered most of this so I won't repeat it but as far as the completion date I'm hoping end of the year. I still need Ethan to finish the floor plans and then get my permits etc. After that most of the work will be by pros so it shouldn't take more then a couple months. I hope.

Thanks for the questions guys. It definitely gets us thinking on some better options. I just need to hang out in this area more.smile.gif
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post #16 of 46 Old 10-10-2012, 04:00 PM
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It's the stacked subs that are pretty close to the front sconces which worry me. Blue Tac and silicone caulking are two tools

The 8350 isn't lighting up an AT screen. The grey wall likely has more gain then an AT screen. And have you factored in bulb wear (with all the gaming hours)?
3D mode will be much less light output.

I would mix spots and sconces. I built double walled back boxes with Green Glue for the spots. Mine are in post 22. I used Par20 50W 4" retrofit spots. I'd skip the
metal box and do the inner box out of cement backer board as a simplified and cheaper back box. I'd also put the lighting on zones and use a lighting controller.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/654719/how-to-build-a-soundproof-fireproof-light-box

You might do well to use some hourly consulting for your speaker layout. I've flipped surround speakers and bounced audio off the walls back in Dolby Pro Logic days with
good results. No idea of it would work with today's formats. Perhaps some hourly consulting with Dennis Erskine would be a good idea for the surrounds and overall speaker layout?

It's the columns on the front wall that concern me.

SOWK's 2.35:1 gaming thread might be of interest, or food for thought:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1368295/2-35-1-pc-gaming-powered-by-lumagen
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post #17 of 46 Old 10-10-2012, 09:58 PM
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Really nice design..
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post #18 of 46 Old 10-11-2012, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

It's the stacked subs that are pretty close to the front sconces which worry me. Blue Tac and silicone caulking are two tools
The 8350 isn't lighting up an AT screen. The grey wall likely has more gain then an AT screen. And have you factored in bulb wear (with all the gaming hours)?
3D mode will be much less light output.
I would mix spots and sconces. I built double walled back boxes with Green Glue for the spots. Mine are in post 22. I used Par20 50W 4" retrofit spots. I'd skip the
metal box and do the inner box out of cement backer board as a simplified and cheaper back box. I'd also put the lighting on zones and use a lighting controller.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/654719/how-to-build-a-soundproof-fireproof-light-box
You might do well to use some hourly consulting for your speaker layout. I've flipped surround speakers and bounced audio off the walls back in Dolby Pro Logic days with
good results. No idea of it would work with today's formats. Perhaps some hourly consulting with Dennis Erskine would be a good idea for the surrounds and overall speaker layout?

It's the columns on the front wall that concern me.

Thanks Tedd. You've given us some food for thought we'll have to discuss then. Good read on the light boxes, just wish the links to the pictures weren't broken!

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Really nice design..
Thanks man, appreciate it. smile.gif

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post #19 of 46 Old 10-11-2012, 09:38 PM
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ScottJ0007's seem to be the best to me and his links still work. My back boxes were used with Bazz 100 retrofit fixtures and I would do these again, but use concrete back board interior and skip the
sheet metal box and heavy duty bracketry as needless expense.
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post #20 of 46 Old 10-15-2012, 02:08 PM
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ScottJ0007's seem to be the best to me and his links still work. My back boxes were used with Bazz 100 retrofit fixtures and I would do these again, but use concrete back board interior and skip the
sheet metal box and heavy duty bracketry as needless expense.

Thanks Tedd I'll check them out.
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post #21 of 46 Old 11-28-2012, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Construction has begun!!!!

Had an engineer friend go look at Adam's basement to see what he could do with those columns. Turns out we can get 4ft wider than what I have shown in the renders, so that gets the side surrounds farther away from the LP. Yay.

Conc cut for new footers under columns.


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post #22 of 46 Old 11-29-2012, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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New columns and foundations in.


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post #23 of 46 Old 02-07-2013, 03:58 PM
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Well some more progress has been made and I have some updates and questions.

First off we removed the original lally column. The room is really open now. I'll post up some pics of that and the material later.

Second I've decided to go with a 163" cinescope screen. I'm between a Panny 8000 and a JVC X55 or 4810. I was all decided on going with the JVC for obvious reasons until I realized the JVC's are known for poor gaming lag. That's a problem. I need something capable of lighting up the screen and with a low input lag. I game online most of the time so it's pretty important. If anyone has any other pj suggestions I'd be happy to hear them.

I took Tedd's advice and contacted Dennis Erskine and he pretty much told me my room will look and sound like crap so he didn't want anything to do with it. I wanted optimum speaker locations and treatments since I was able to move the poles and they wouldn't be mounted on them, but that's not gonna happen with him. I was extremely disappointed in my contact and dealings with him. Anyway I still need that info. I realize my screen size and seating distance isn't "ideal" but that's how I like to watch movies and game. When it's come to the speakers though I would like them positioned and angled as best as possible. So does anyone know a site where I can plug in the room dimensions myself and get the desired locations/angle??

Also does anyone know a good way to mount the surrounds from the ceiling without affecting my sound isolation? The JBL's weigh 19lbs and I'll have DD, GG, and IB1 clips on the ceiling.

Btw I've talking to Ted White(soundproofingcompany) a lot lately to make sure everything is going to be done right and he's a great guy to talk to and deal with. Always willing and ready to help and give advice and very courteous and polite. I wish all companies talked to customers the way he does. So thank you Ted.

I'll be ordering almost all of the building supplies Saturday and work should begin in no more then two weeks. Everything will be done professionally so I'll have no part in the building whatsoever. That's a good thing.biggrin.gif
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post #24 of 46 Old 02-25-2013, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Well construction began this weekend - and immediately got torn down:

Saturday morning I spent drafting up some section details for Adam's contractor when I realized around lunch that Adam told me the isoclips for the stud walls had not yet arrived - which is a problem since the contractor had begun putting up the walls that morning. So poor guy had to stop work and tear down everything he did that morning.

But it was kinda a good thing since after reviewing what he had done we realized that his contractor didn't quite get a few things right anyways. Adam will probably have some pics for you guys then. At any rate we expect this project to proceed fairly quickly starting this upcoming Saturday, so stay tuned!

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post #25 of 46 Old 02-25-2013, 04:38 PM
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Congrats on the build! Really drooling over the renders! just wow!
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post #26 of 46 Old 02-25-2013, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vikgrao View Post

Congrats on the build! Really drooling over the renders! just wow!

Thanks Vic! I was checking out your thread and that means a lot coming from you. I'm pretty jealous you had Big working on your theater too. I was gonna pick his brain in a pm but I figured he was pretty busy. Wish I had since I probably wouldn't have made my first mistake already. mad.gif

Love your equipment Vic. I'm getting the Denon 4520 too. Thinking about Emo amps. I guess it depends on how it sounds powered by the Denon.

I saw we also have the same view on screens: go as big as you can. I just wish I could do a 170" wide screen but I would have to have the subs behind the screen wall to do that and with the bar I just don't have the depth. Oh well I'll settle for 150" wide. biggrin.gif
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post #27 of 46 Old 02-26-2013, 03:59 PM
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Thanks for the compliments!. 150" is plenty but then again if you have the room for it nothing is plenty biggrin.gif . One more weird thing is half the items in your renders i have them scattered in my home like the bar stools, chrome lamp, black leather chair and the fireplace.

I like the 4520. Initially i wanted to go with Integra pre pro but dropped out since a lot of my friends have had hardware issues with it. Don't bother about the mistakes, they are a part of every build and also a part of the learning process. Good-luck and i hope you post as much as you can of the build progress ,so that everyone else can give their opinion or advice and before you know it your gonna have one heck of a theater! smile.gif
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post #28 of 46 Old 02-26-2013, 08:33 PM
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those renders look fantastic and if your room turns out as nice as those, i would be very proud. the one suggestion i would make which would make the room more seamless would be to hide all the speakers. the LCR's seem to go behind the acoustic screen, why not also put the subs there? as for the surrounds, why not build out the wall sections slightly and conceal them within the wall cavity and put some fabric covers over them to hide the actual speaker. by doing this, in my opinion, the entire room will be clean lines throughout. right now, it seems as though the speakers are just tacked onto the walls whereas the bar area is super sleek. just my opinion though smile.gif

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post #29 of 46 Old 02-27-2013, 07:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Anthony thanks for the compliments on my renders, appreciate it. smile.gif

I do agree a stealth system would look better, and definitely go better with the style of the room. So why didn't we? Reasons why we decided to not hide everything: the subs won't fit behind the screen, they are massive. Plus, the subs Adam wants to get are absolutely gorgeous and it would be a sin to hide them. eek.gif As for surrounds, we're not really sure exactly where to put them yet, so can't pick a hiding spot either. That also gives us a little flexibility down the road too if Adam decides to switch speakers. Which, considering how often he changes his mind, has a high probability of happening.

Speaking of changes, there is no more false wall. Adam visited MKtheatre's room and decided he liked having the screen just hang in front of his mains. I'm not crazy about the idea, but it's his theatre and I'm used to clients making design decisions i disagree with, so I just make it work. biggrin.gif

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post #30 of 46 Old 02-27-2013, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. View Post

those renders look fantastic and if your room turns out as nice as those, i would be very proud. the one suggestion i would make which would make the room more seamless would be to hide all the speakers. the LCR's seem to go behind the acoustic screen, why not also put the subs there? as for the surrounds, why not build out the wall sections slightly and conceal them within the wall cavity and put some fabric covers over them to hide the actual speaker. by doing this, in my opinion, the entire room will be clean lines throughout. right now, it seems as though the speakers are just tacked onto the walls whereas the bar area is super sleek. just my opinion though smile.gif

Thanks Anthony that's all Ethan there. He's a beast when it comes to 3D rendering. And a lot of other things. Ethan covered the reasons for not hiding them but I will say I do actually like to see the speakers too. Naked with no grills.biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by vikgrao View Post

Thanks for the compliments!. 150" is plenty but then again if you have the room for it nothing is plenty biggrin.gif . One more weird thing is half the items in your renders i have them scattered in my home like the bar stools, chrome lamp, black leather chair and the fireplace.

I like the 4520. Initially i wanted to go with Integra pre pro but dropped out since a lot of my friends have had hardware issues with it. Don't bother about the mistakes, they are a part of every build and also a part of the learning process. Good-luck and i hope you post as much as you can of the build progress ,so that everyone else can give their opinion or advice and before you know it your gonna have one heck of a theater! smile.gif

That's nice to know because I was thinking of the Integra too but after the Denon came out with Neo:X I knew I'd get that. It was that or the Marantz but it's a good bit more then the Denon.

Yah I would like to do 160" wide but with the subs I just don't have the width. Not to mention I'm already pushing it as far as light output goes on a 150" wide. It'll be a bat cave though so I'm sure I'll be happy.

I see we both have good taste then.smile.gif My wife is Serbian so of course we try to go modern as much as we can even though the house itself isn't. I love it though. Clean and simple.

I will definitely be taking plenty of pics and videos!
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