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post #1 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll be slowly building a dedicated theater room in my basement, and will be looking for advice, opinions and suggestions. There was a single finished room in the basement which I was using as the "cave" until it flooded. I had only owned the home 6 weeks at the time of the flooding, and we'll just say its one of many things thats gone wrong. With that being said, budget is very tight and I don't have a timeframe of when I will complete the build. I figured I would go ahead and get a build thread started and seek ideas. I've been a long time lurker, and while I'm impressed with many of the measures that everyone goes to in their dedicated rooms, I simply won't have the budget for many of those things. What I do want to know is where I can appropriate my funds best in order to get the best result for the least amount of money.

Ok, on to the details. The room itself is quite small, but should work for my uses. Room is approx 12.5' wide x 16' long. The biggest issue I may run into is that the ceilings are only 7' high. The ceiling height could cause some unique challenges.

Due to electrical issues before the flooding, I had to rip down the ceiling. The home was originally built in 1927 and still had much of the original wiring. I've removed as much of it as I could, and put some R-19 bats in the ceiling to attempt to help with noise transfer to the next floor. I also plan on installing black ceiling tiles with a "reasonable" STC rating. The best ones I've found in black that don't cost an arm & a leg seem to be by Armstrong and have an STC of .55. Any suggestions here will be welcome. As I'm short on height, I was planning on using a product called CelingMax which attaches directly to the rafters and allows the installation of standard 2x2 ceiling tiles. I wanted to use the tiles for sound absorption and also to keep access to the ceiling if I ever need to get in there for any reason.

Here are a few pictures before the ceiling was pulled down. Old couch which will most likely get donated and a TINY TV that I will be replacing. I was initially thinking 50" Panasonic VT50, but I think I would like to get a projector down there instead.






More photos to follow.

Eventually I'd like to upgrade a lot of this, but one step at a time.

Current equipment:

Pioneer Elite VSX-92TXH Receiver
Panasonic BD310 3D bluray player
Dish Network Hopper DVR
2x KEF iQ3s
2x KEF Q1s
1x KEF iQ6C
Klipsch RSW-10
Monster EP IR 3650 Power Center (hate this thing and would love to replace).

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post #2 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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A few pictures once the ceiling was brought down, wanted to show the LOVELY electrical work I found in my ceiling which consisted of two runs of romex completed disconnected at either end and left in the ceiling as well as romex duct taped onto knob & tube which serviced two rooms on the main floor. This has since been removed.








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post #3 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Water damage started appearing on the night of 8/31. I began to gut the room the following weekend.








Ripped down the walls to locate the source of the leak. There were a total of three cracks in the foundation.






Chiseled out the cracks and packed with hydraulic water stop cement.





Painted several coats of Drilock over the entire room. Ripped out all the soaked carpeting.






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post #4 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 03:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Getting married in a week, so I haven't had much time. I'm attempting to do some minor prep for a sub floor. Going to use Dricore subflooring. I had a few gift cards and a coupon that was getting ready to expire for Lowes so I went ahead and purchased about half the flooring.



A little motivation to get me through the build. biggrin.gif Just kidding, stocking up for the wedding which is only 7 days away.


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post #5 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 03:18 PM
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Whoa that tape job on the electrical is scary - invitation for a fire - Holmes on Homes would just love it.

AFAIK ceiling tiles and sound isolation are pretty much incompatible.
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post #6 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Whoa that tape job on the electrical is scary - invitation for a fire - Holmes on Homes would just love it.
AFAIK ceiling tiles and sound isolation are pretty much incompatible.

Mike Holmes would have a field day with this home. I feel like Tom Hanks in The Money Pit. Within 6 weeks of ownership we've had to spend a ton of money on insulation, as the home wasn't properly insulated. The electrical systems are a nightmare and I'm working to try and get those fixed. The basement flooded (as pictured). The main floor tub spout has shot off....twice. The upstairs shower leaked. The upstairs sink leaked. Both shelving systems in the closet fell off the wall (see picture).

Ya, its been awesome. Thus the budgetary concerns.


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post #7 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 03:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

AFAIK ceiling tiles and sound isolation are pretty much incompatible.

Any suggestions instead? I thought of DD + GG, but I wanted to have access and that also may be out of my budget in the immediate.

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post #8 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 05:44 PM
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So Holmes would have addressed the leakage from the outside as well..why did you only patch from the inside?
I'm assuming you didnt use insurance..and if so why not?
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post #9 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havok2022 View Post

Any suggestions instead? I thought of DD + GG, but I wanted to have access and that also may be out of my budget in the immediate.

Even single layer of drywall would be better - could you create an access door outside the room?
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post #10 of 41 Old 10-06-2012, 06:31 PM
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I wonder if the best money to spend here is on a pump system to save your investment in the future.
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post #11 of 41 Old 10-07-2012, 04:32 AM
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Just curious, but did you hire an independent home inspection before purchasing the home? We're going through the purchase process and the inspector we hired provided a 120 day home warranty with the inspection. Not saying they would have discovered any of the issues you're facing, as I sometimes doubt the education and abilities of some people that call themselves inspectors. Not to lump all inspectors into one group, I've had some very good ones in the past.

Thanks,

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post #12 of 41 Old 10-07-2012, 04:57 AM
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I would check the grading and drainage outside. That is a lot of water to come through a crack. Do you have gutters? Are the leaders attached? Does the lawn slope away from the house?

Patching the hole will only force the water to find the next weakest link.

Sorry to hear about all of your new home troubles.

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post #13 of 41 Old 10-07-2012, 05:07 AM
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I wouldn't make an investment in the basement until you've had some rain storms of equal magnitude to see if everything stays dry.
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post #14 of 41 Old 10-07-2012, 05:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Holy hell people, focus! tongue.gif The leaks are fixed. I'll try to address these questions best I can and then we can move on possibly. smile.gif
Quote:
So Holmes would have addressed the leakage from the outside as well..why did you only patch from the inside?
I'm assuming you didnt use insurance..and if so why not?

Mike Holmes has unlimited funds, I do not. The source of the issue was really a gutter downspout. Whoever poured the cement walkway outside the home actually poured it at or above the brick line instead of below the brick line. The first real wind we got knocked the downspout off the house. When the remnants of hurricane Issac hit the midwest, that rain storm dumped a TON of water via that broken downspout directly on the corner of the home instead of pushing it away. At which point it worked into the 1927 block foundation and traveled through the cavities in the blocks until it found a way out. Insurance didn't cover it for a few reasons.

1. I don't have flood insurance, the house is built on a hill.
2. They don't cover seepage anyways, only drain backup.
Quote:
Just curious, but did you hire an independent home inspection before purchasing the home? We're going through the purchase process and the inspector we hired provided a 120 day home warranty with the inspection. Not saying they would have discovered any of the issues you're facing, as I sometimes doubt the education and abilities of some people that call themselves inspectors. Not to lump all inspectors into one group, I've had some very good ones in the past.

I did hire an inspector, and we have spoken with them since. There are a few thing I'll point out. No matter how good an inspector is, he won't be able to see through walls. This wouldn't have been caught regardless. The rest of the basement is dry as a bone and sealed up nicely. (for now). With that being said there are other areas of concern I had, and they did give us money. We're also in the process of pursuing the seller. It's a real mess and a very stressful headache/lesson that I don't want to go too far into.
Quote:
I wouldn't make an investment in the basement until you've had some rain storms of equal magnitude to see if everything stays dry.

We repaired the downspout and sealed around it to make extra sure. We also used an outdoor cement sealant around the area where the walkway meets the brick line and some silicon as well. There have been about 4 rain storms since the one that caused the flooding which produced as much or more water than the one which caused the flooding and there have been no further signs of moisture. The base plates of the existing walls are treated lumber. I'm also putting down Dricore which will allow water to flow under it. I will mention that the water did in fact make it to the drain in the home during the first flood, it just went through all the finishes to get there. So I believe the slope in the basement to be correct if there are further issues, which I'm taking steps to address.

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post #15 of 41 Old 10-07-2012, 05:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I wonder if the best money to spend here is on a pump system to save your investment in the future.

Pump systems are for basements that are below the water line. Being that I'm on top of a large hill, there would really be no need.

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post #16 of 41 Old 10-07-2012, 05:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Even single layer of drywall would be better - could you create an access door outside the room?

The only wall that would allow access to the horizontal rafters is where the stair case is. There is no access except for the last 4-5 feet of the room. So when it gets sealed up with drywall, there is no getting to it without ripping it back down again.

Also, I was under the impression that tiles with a decent STC are far superior to a sheet of drywall. Not the case?

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post #17 of 41 Old 11-24-2012, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Its been some time since I last updated this. Between getting married and the holidays I have been very busy. Was able to get the Dricore sub-flooring mostly down this weekend. We just need a few more squares to finish off under the stairs and to put and end where the flooring will end in the basement. Snapped a few pictures. Having the electrician out on Wed to fix a few things unrelated to the basement project. Going to see if I can get some estimates down there for wiring the lighting, installing a plug for the projector, etc. When we took the baseboard off the stairs we found an area of older wood in need of repair so we'll have to take care of that as well..

The area under the stairs will be where my AV gear will be housed. Will finish that out as part of the process.








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post #18 of 41 Old 01-21-2013, 12:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Was able to since get in pot lights on two dimmers, wired almost everything up (have a few more cables to run for future expansion type things. I've also since decided to build a rack into the wall and have a clean built-in type look. I went ahead and framed in the window on the screen wall and am highly considering doing the same to the window on the side wall as it seems silly to have one tiny window with a shade. Not sure yet though. Ran out of Roxul Comfort Bat for the exterior walls, so I need to go get a bit more to finish that up, then I'll start putting the safe & sound in the ceiling cavity.

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post #19 of 41 Old 01-22-2013, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
I'm also putting down Dricore which will allow water to flow under it.

OK, I don't want to burst your bubble here, but........

I've used dricore and my basement flooded TWICE. Your bottom plates are on the concrete floor and your dricore is inside the perimeter of the stud walls, correct? The hole in your logic here is that in order for the water to pass under the dricore, it would first have to flow OVER the the bottom plate, which is above the level of the dricore. Based on my experience, by the time that happens, you'll have far too much water entering the basement and your dricore will be basically useless as any finish flooring on top of the dricore will get wet.

In the event of small leaks, the dricore should do it's job, IF you've left the required 1/4" gap around the perimeter. Once a flood hits, you'll wish you didn't use it at all. At least by installing it inside the perimeter, it will be MUCH easier to remove and replace. MY advice for anyone contemplating using it in a teardown/build from scratch basement is to use a PT botom plate with a series of cutouts (weep holes, so to speak) to let water run through. Then build your standard stud wall on TOP of the PT bottom plate, so that you essentially have a double bottom plate. THEN install dricore inside the perimeter. I sure wish I had.

And get a sump pump and backup.

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post #20 of 41 Old 01-23-2013, 04:54 PM
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I know, I know, but I can't help myself. I feel like I'm



But without one shred of doubt, you have to absolutely, positively, totally have your water issues FIXED! Logan, I, and several others here have had water issues before. There is not much worse having your hard work, blood, sweat, and tears washed away in a flash. It happens, and it sucks. Do all that you can INSIDE and OUTSIDE to prevent water intrusion. I'm here to tell you that Drylock is not a water proofer I would want to rely on totally until it has been proven in "battle".

Good luck, I'll be following along to monitor your progress.

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post #21 of 41 Old 01-23-2013, 07:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, it seems everyone is beating the dead horse. I guess to clarify things, the "flooding" was caused primarily by a broken downspout on the side of the house, which has been repaired. I didnt use only drylock, I've used water stop cement on the cracks themselves. My house is atop a large hill and all the water flows down away from the house. Since fixing the downspout and the walls we've had a good 10-15 severe rain storms, one of the few benefits of living in MO. There have been no further signs of water penetration since I've made the repairs. As far as the bottom plate and Dricore is concerned, not sure I agree that the water has to flow over the bottom plate. That didnt happen in the original issue. It either flowed through the bottom plate, or underneath it in some small gaps due to floor imperfections. A sump pump would have done no good during what I experienced, and being above the water table is a bit of a waste of money.

I know everyone here is trying to help, but I'm not getting a lot of positive feedback. I've corrected the issues as best as I can afford. I don't have the unlimited funds of Mike Holmes, but I do have my father to help me and his 40+ years as a well respected builder. If he tells me its sufficient, I trust him.

On to some more positive things. I corrected a lot of the electrical violations that were sold to me unknowingly with the home. The county inspector came today and signed off on everything in the panel and all the work in the basement thus far. So thats a thumbs up there. I also had a drywall pro come in and bid some work in the basement (and a bunch of issues in my master suite FAR beyond the zero skill I have). Depending on pricing, I may just hiring out the mud & tape phase as I've never done it and would prefer it get done correctly since my dad can't be here every weekend to help out.

And last but not least, MY PROJECTOR ARRIVED TODAY! This is my first projector ever, and sadly my first TV over 32". I have it thrown on the living room wall right now just to check my HDMI cables before I run them in the ceiling. Looks great. All I have is a crappy iphone camera, so not the best representation.






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post #22 of 41 Old 01-24-2013, 03:49 PM
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First, let me say that Big is one of the most experienced AVS'ers/DIY builders round these here parts if you are not acquainted with him, and Tom has had water issues dealing with Dri Core install of his own so they know a thing or three about this stuff. I don't think they are trying to be negative. They are just trying to provide guidance to you so that you don't invest all the time, effort, and money in a build just to have it ruined by water issues. I'm sorry that you feel that you are not getting positive feedback. I guess on my part if you say that you have your water issues fixed, then they are fixed. We (hopefully) all can move on and continue to give you our thoughts and opinions on what is going on in your build.

On the drywall front, I would just get it all done hanging, mudding, and taping. The pros can do it much faster/better than you can and in the long run be a much better deal than doing it yourself. Nice to hear that the inspection was signed off. It is very good to get all the "legalities" out of the way so you can continue your build.

On the PJ, congrats on the purchase. If you have not ever had anything bigger than a 32" TV as you have seen by just a demo you are in for a treat. I don't know much about the PJ you purchased, but it sure looks sharp, can you say that about a Sony?

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post #23 of 41 Old 02-25-2013, 08:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Was able to get some more work done this weekend. Got the drywall hung, but not without a new challenges. The joists in the old house required a bit of shimming and even so the ceiling does have a few waves. Hopefully with finishing and some trim it wont be terribly noticeable. I had the finisher in this morning to tape all the seams. He'll be back over the next few days to continue mudding and sanding.

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post #24 of 41 Old 02-25-2013, 08:41 AM
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The room seems to be shaping up quite nice looking. Thanks for sharing your progress.
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post #25 of 41 Old 02-25-2013, 07:07 PM
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Looking good. Glad to see you are making progress. Keep up the good work.

Regards,

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post #26 of 41 Old 02-25-2013, 09:52 PM
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Love the build and another Midwest build helps. What are you doing for color scheme? Flooring? Audio? Seating?
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post #27 of 41 Old 02-26-2013, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebelranger View Post

Love the build and another Midwest build helps. What are you doing for color scheme? Flooring? Audio? Seating?

I haven't decided on a color scheme yet, so I had better get on that since I'll be ready to prime very soon. As far as flooring, I'm going with carpet at a 10lb pad, but I haven't picked the design yet. Seating for now is going to be a couch. Eventually I'll probably put in a sectional, but I don't think the room size is very conducive to theater seating if I want to fit 4-6 people in there comfortably. I may do a bar or something behind the seating. Once I get the ceiling painted an projector hung I'll have a better idea of where I can put the seating any everything.

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post #28 of 41 Old 02-26-2013, 11:14 AM - Thread Starter
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The finisher came back for day 2 and another coat. He will do one more coat tomorrow and then sand everything on Thursday. Should be ready to prime after that though i probably can't get to that step for a few weeks.

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post #29 of 41 Old 03-11-2013, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I've done a little work in the last few weeks. Was able to get the walls and ceiling primed, ceiling painted and the projector hung. I'm stuck on picking colors for the walls though. All opinions are welcome. I'll probably just end up going grey or red but I'm not sure. The wife seems to hate every color scheme I pick.




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post #30 of 41 Old 03-11-2013, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havok2022 View Post

I've done a little work in the last few weeks. Was able to get the walls and ceiling primed, ceiling painted and the projector hung.


Noooooo! Not the projector! Now all work will slow to a crawl as you watch movies on your primed (or 1.3 gain coating as it is referred to by people who prematurely hung their projectors) wall (or "remarkably good DIY screen", as it is referred to by those who prematurely hung their projector) while sitting in lawn chairs and beanbags (or "demo seating" as they are referred to by those who prematurely hung their projectors).










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