Where Do I Locate My Conduit and Power Feed for My PJ? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 10-16-2012, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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I need to run my conduit and power feed for PJ before I start drywalling, and it occurred to me that I'm not 100% sure where it should go. I'm in the "don't buy the equipment until the end," camp, so I don't have a PJ to test out the throw etc. How do I know where to run my conduit for my HDMI, catX, etc., and where to locate my power outlet for my PJ? I don't want to my mount to cover the power outlet, but I'd like for it all to be near enough that it's fairly hidden. I may add a hushbox down the road, but I'm not planning on it right out of the gate.

For now I'm considering either the Panny AE8000 or the Epson 6010, and I'm planning for a 138" x 64" screen (trying to maximize both 2.35 and 1.78). The top of my 2.35 screen will be at just over 7'-1" (from the floor). I've played with the online calculators, and I think I could put the PJ at 20' from the screen and it would work for both aspect ratios. However, that puts it directly above the bar at the back of the room. I'm not sure if I should try to move it forward or not. With a 15-1/2" riser,I think the PJ will be hanging down pretty low. Should I try to move it forward enough that it falls between the back row of seats and the bar?

Here's a model to give you an idea of my room layout for those of you not familiar with my build.

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post #2 of 21 Old 10-16-2012, 02:56 PM
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I put the conduit and outlet above my bar, but further back than the projector would be. I positioned the PJ directly above the bar as the bottom does come down to just above 6'. So it's not in anyone's way where it is. I could probably have raised the projector, but wanted to get it positioned at the top edge of the screen. If you end up bringing the projector forward, you can easily tie the cables to the pole or run them inside (depending on your mount). Either way, securing a 1-2' of cable along the ceiling won't be an issue.

20' is starting to feel like a long throw - my JVC is at 17'...

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Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
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post #3 of 21 Old 10-16-2012, 11:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

I put the conduit and outlet above my bar, but further back than the projector would be. I positioned the PJ directly above the bar as the bottom does come down to just above 6'. So it's not in anyone's way where it is. I could probably have raised the projector, but wanted to get it positioned at the top edge of the screen. If you end up bringing the projector forward, you can easily tie the cables to the pole or run them inside (depending on your mount). Either way, securing a 1-2' of cable along the ceiling won't be an issue.
20' is starting to feel like a long throw - my JVC is at 17'...
Jeff

My joists run across the width of the room. I'm planning on putting conduit in each of the last 3 or 4 joist bays allowing me to defer my PJ decision until the end as well smile.gif
I plan on running a few feet of loose electrical from the rear center of the room towards the front and then pulling the excess once I locate my electrical box.
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post #4 of 21 Old 10-17-2012, 05:43 AM
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Yes you can plan for multiple projector locations. I've seen a project there the guy ran the conduit to multiple bays and put a T fitting aimed down in each bay. I often run Romex to a general area and when the time comes you cut a hole for an old-work electrical box reach through the hole and grab the Romex and finish the job. Problem is you then have a hole with no sound proofing treatment.

You also need to consider putting blocking for the projector mount in all possible locations. A simple way if you are going with clips and channel is to substitute a 4x4 or 4x8 sheet of 5/8 plywood/OSB for the first layer of drywall in the location of the projector. In most theaters if you start hanging sheets at the front, after 4 rows you are at 16 ft from the front wall so you can put up a 4x4 or 4x8 sheet and then just continue drywalling around it and everything fits perfectly. If you need to cover a big area turn the sheet so it points at the front wall. Once both layers are up you can cut your holes and go fishing for the romex and conduit.
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post #5 of 21 Old 10-17-2012, 07:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Great ideas! I'd like to leave myself some options for placement if I can. I'll have to check on the locations of existing holes in my joists to see if I can run a single conduit, or if I'll need to run several (one along each bay).

BIG brought up my next concern. How would I soundproof the opening I made? Any suggestions on that front? I'm not sure if a putty pad applied to the elec. box would work well if applied before I put it in.

As always, I appreciate the advice!

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post #6 of 21 Old 10-17-2012, 08:30 AM
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Forget conduit! Just run the cable along the wall and staple it there! Then people will see all of your cool wires and say, "WOW, YOU HAVE SO MANY WIRES! I'm so jealous!"
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post #7 of 21 Old 10-17-2012, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Ummmm..... Yeah...... That's... ummmmm... great advice...... I'll take that into consideration! Maybe I can get hot pink wires, too biggrin.gif

Note to self: damelon may have been out too late last night.

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post #8 of 21 Old 10-17-2012, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Great ideas! I'd like to leave myself some options for placement if I can. I'll have to check on the locations of existing holes in my joists to see if I can run a single conduit, or if I'll need to run several (one along each bay).
BIG brought up my next concern. How would I soundproof the opening I made? Any suggestions on that front? I'm not sure if a putty pad applied to the elec. box would work well if applied before I put it in.
As always, I appreciate the advice!

I found some retro electrical boxes at HD that had tabs that stuck out enough that I should be able to putty pad before inserting.
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post #9 of 21 Old 10-17-2012, 11:04 AM
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A thought that would make an inspector shake his head. Adding mass and an air tight seal to the back of the box is a good plan, but only so much can go on the sides as it needs to slip into the hole and you want the hole to be tight so you could also put a putty pad on the inside of the outlet box,
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post #10 of 21 Old 10-18-2012, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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235, I had to think about what you were getting at for a bit, but now I follow. Putty pad the box before you put it in the hole, you just need a wide enough flange.

BIG, Not a bad idea. I'll have to check with Ted to see what he thinks. If the stuff is highly flammable, it's probably a no-go. Otherwise, it sounds reasonable.

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post #11 of 21 Old 10-18-2012, 09:22 AM
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Putty pads original purpose was as a fire stop product. I doubt it is flammable.
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post #12 of 21 Old 10-18-2012, 09:31 AM - Thread Starter
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LOL. I guess that answers that question smile.gif

I'm considering building a joist muffler around three or four bays in that area, but:

1) I'm afraid it might be overkill
2) I'm afraid of creating a resonant cavity even if filled with insulation

My problem is I don't have a feel for how much sound leakage I'd be looking at for a hole the size of an electrical box. I hate to spend all this time and money on sound isolation only to have one hole in my ceiling that undermines the whole thing.

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post #13 of 21 Old 10-18-2012, 11:52 AM
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I'd just use a couple of putty pads and call it a day.

If you can zero in on the exact location you can install the electrical box in the plywood(or drywall) before it goes up and putty the piss out of the backside.
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post #14 of 21 Old 10-18-2012, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I'd just use a couple of putty pads and call it a day.
If you can zero in on the exact location you can install the electrical box in the plywood(or drywall) before it goes up and putty the piss out of the backside.

I remember you doing this in someones theater but, I can't remember which one. It had a nice pic. It showed the electrical box and a box for the video to the projector and
the plywood. It was heavily caulked and sealed up nicely. Wish I could remember whos it was.
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post #15 of 21 Old 10-18-2012, 01:18 PM
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But you gotta know where to put it

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post #16 of 21 Old 10-18-2012, 02:00 PM
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post #17 of 21 Old 10-22-2012, 10:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the ideas, everyone!

Here's the plan, I'm going to make an educated guess as to where I think the PJ will go (probably put the lens above the 2nd row headrests) and put in backer boxes like those shown above for a PJ in that spot (boxes likely above the bar). I'll pull in some romex into one box and maybe terminate a conduit into the other. I'll also run some conduit into the adjacent bays JIK my guess isn't close enough. I'll stuff my backer boxes with some insulation, and cover them with my 2nd layer of drywall. If it works out that they are in the right spot, I'm golden. If not, I'm only out a little bit of time and some MDF or plywood, and I can use my conduits accordingly.

Speaking of conduits. How do you guys secure them so that they don't fall down on your insulation or rattle against anything?

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post #18 of 21 Old 10-23-2012, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

...it needs to slip into the hole and you want the hole to be tight...

More good advice from Big. Words to live by. biggrin.gif

What happened to the bump out in the back of the room, not on center? Or too far back for the optics on the projectors you're looking at? An equipment closet is nice. Quieter without a hush box and you don't have to make it look pretty.

 

 

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post #19 of 21 Old 10-24-2012, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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We should really have some T-shirts printed with quotes from these forums smile.gif That, may very well be #1

I still have that area in the back, and it is currently planned to be hidden by false walls. I'd love to put my PJ back there, but then we're looking at a ~30' throw. I think the PJ's I'm looking at would do it, but it would be at the cost of brightness. I'm already pushing it with the size of the screen I'm planning for, so I didn't think I could give up any lumens by putting the PJ that far back. It would be the ideal spot, though!

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post #20 of 21 Old 05-27-2013, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Yes you can plan for multiple projector locations. I've seen a project there the guy ran the conduit to multiple bays and put a T fitting aimed down in each bay. I often run Romex to a general area and when the time comes you cut a hole for an old-work electrical box reach through the hole and grab the Romex and finish the job. Problem is you then have a hole with no sound proofing treatment.

You also need to consider putting blocking for the projector mount in all possible locations. A simple way if you are going with clips and channel is to substitute a 4x4 or 4x8 sheet of 5/8 plywood/OSB for the first layer of drywall in the location of the projector. In most theaters if you start hanging sheets at the front, after 4 rows you are at 16 ft from the front wall so you can put up a 4x4 or 4x8 sheet and then just continue drywalling around it and everything fits perfectly. If you need to cover a big area turn the sheet so it points at the front wall. Once both layers are up you can cut your holes and go fishing for the romex and conduit.

This was really great advice Big!

I'm stealing your great ideas... smile.gif

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post #21 of 21 Old 05-27-2013, 09:38 PM
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Don't mean to hijack, but since folks are throwing ideas out...

I was planning to build a platform into the rear of my soffit (haven't figured out how yet), and run a power bridge / hdmi through the soffit to the location. Room is 20' munus 2' for the screen wall and 18" of shelf (soffit), so the throw would be a little under 17'? Any reason it can't just sit on the shelf?

Any reason this wouldn't work or would be a bad idea?

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