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post #811 of 1745 Old 05-26-2014, 12:24 PM
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Local lumber yards often have better quality; the big box retailers are often picked through and only the crappy boards left over which hang around forever.

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post #812 of 1745 Old 05-26-2014, 03:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Local lumber yards often have better quality; the big box retailers are often picked through and only the crappy boards left over which hang around forever.

You're absolutely right. Funny you mention this, living in Timber Country along with being a partner owning Forestry lands......you'd think I would have more sense! biggrin.gif

The big box stores are convenient and have stock on hand...........quality? Another story...............
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post #813 of 1745 Old 05-26-2014, 04:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Have an idea which my wife actually likes............big surprise, it's her idea!

Kitchen cabinets are in shaker style and have 1/4 inch plywood for face with 1 X 3 surrounds.........thinking of using kitchen cabinet style as a design element in theater room.





In theater room thinking facing soffit with fore-mentioned pieces....3-1/2" crown, 5-1/2 base molding and 1X3 at bottom tucked behind crown tray light.......



From soffit face, there will be a 2-1/2 ft gap all around between soffit and center piece which will house acoustical treatments. Rather than having legs extend to soffit, I was thinking apply 1/4 Knotty Alder plywood to the 2-1/2 ft perimeter space and use 1X3 Knotty Alder to to hide seams on plywood and add pieces to give shaker look like kitchen cabinets. My motivation was inspired by this photo......



Rather than checkerboard grid, thinking about eliminating legs using center piece with same fabric on walls hiding treatments.

I'll try to draw up a more detailed draft later to see what you guys think. In a nutshell......soffit, 2-1/2 perimeter gap, and perimeter face of center will be trimmed in KA. Center will have light tray similar to this:



Thinking of having two 8 inch or 6 inch runs of KA dividing up center piece into thirds along width. Can lights will be installed directly above aimed down on front and back row seating.

Here is a rough draft and will have more details later.......




Not etched in stone as I'm waiting on TMcG's soffit idea.......everything is coming together thanks to Avtexan and TMcG's ideas...........and of course, my wife. She said it would be all my ideas, but then again, she can't keep here nose out of designing room......using kitchen cabinet design in theater room is all hers! rolleyes.gif
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post #814 of 1745 Old 05-27-2014, 07:21 AM
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I'm a sucker for raised panels myself, I just like that look. It's extra router pain though.

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post #815 of 1745 Old 05-27-2014, 07:24 AM
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Edit : you are talking about the ceiling right ? I saw cabinet door first and now I'm confused I think. eek.gif

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post #816 of 1745 Old 05-27-2014, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Edit : you are talking about the ceiling right ? I saw cabinet door first and now I'm confused I think. eek.gif

Yeah, we are taking ceiling......

Kitchen cabinets represent a style called "shaker" or I've heard style referred to as "mission"

I don't know if I'm articulating my ideas well......but will incorporate some elements of "shaker" style to ceiling.

2-1/2 ft of 1/4" KA plywood will surround center piece. There will be seams between sheets of plywood. using 1 X3 KA will hide those seams and can be used for "shaker" look on ceiling. With coffered ceiling there would be legs intersecting soffit........I'm thinking of getting rid of those legs and use two 1x3 pieces instead.

Hope that makes sense........
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post #817 of 1745 Old 05-27-2014, 04:09 PM - Thread Starter
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More detailed draft showing material and specifics. Thinking removing each leg which attaches to soffit and use two pieces of 1x 3 on KA plywood to hide seams along with design feature. Each line to soffit from center represents location of 1 X 3's.

There's a key/legend to show materials.........

Critique and please give thoughts what you think or if design is too busy........

Have a meeting in an hour going over materials on site ie. in theater room.....here are modified and detailed drafts.

Opinions and concerns I haven't thought of?


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post #818 of 1745 Old 05-28-2014, 07:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Any recommendations for a quality finish coat for wood in satin?

I prefer a waterborne base product for ease of clean up. I don't think I'm going to spray lacquer like I did on columns due to sheen.......especially since this new project is all ceiling. smile.gif
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post #819 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 08:26 AM
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I usually grab samples on scrap wood and back into my final solution with trial and error.

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post #820 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

I usually grab samples on scrap wood and back into my final solution with trial and error.

Yep, that is a tried and true method! wink.gif

Alder takes stain very well to the point a conditioner is not need. If stain gets blotchy........no big deal as it's rustic. My columns were stained with cut "Fruitwood".......can't go wrong with the stain. In reality, there isn't a huge difference between the natural ie no stain light tray and columns.

Problem is, I sprayed columns with lacquer and finish is too shiny..........looking for product I can spray or brush which seals and give satin finish.

Thanks for input...smile.gif
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post #821 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 10:37 AM
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Have you thought about linseed oil?  Possibly mixed with a bit of urethane.

 

I made some pieces out of Alder a while back and just oiled them - turned out very nice as it brought out the wood grain  and color without covering it up - finish was matte and gets a higher sheen the more you buff it.

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post #822 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post


Yes, that's the exact same stuff at Lowe's..............not very straight and at $15 for 8 feet I'll pass, I can use same finish Alder for nailer for $1 more. I don't mind paying for quality lumber as I'm in the business as a second job......but paying a premium for junk is another story. Might have ran into leftover batch since not too many quality boards.

Thanks for the heads up.......maybe I should screen all available pieces amongst several big boxes locally.

Couple days behind so maybe already resolved this but for this type stuff I use 3/4" plywood ripped to the dimension I need.  relatively inexpensive straight, stable - takes a bit of work to rip but not really with two people.

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post #823 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

Yep, that is a tried and true method! wink.gif

Alder takes stain very well to the point a conditioner is not need. If stain gets blotchy........no big deal as it's rustic. My columns were stained with cut "Fruitwood".......can't go wrong with the stain. In reality, there isn't a huge difference between the natural ie no stain light tray and columns.

Problem is, I sprayed columns with lacquer and finish is too shiny..........looking for product I can spray or brush which seals and give satin finish.

Thanks for input...smile.gif

Can you go over the lacquer with a brush on polyurethane that is less shiny ? I did that on my hardwood floors (oil based) and it worked great. I thought the first was too glossy (it was for my taste). I think you can brush on poly over lacquer right ? I only say polyurethane because t's more brush friendly (but takes longer to dry) I guess you could spray lacquer again too- which dries faster but requires spraying and set up. You might want to pick a less obvious area or a scrap test and try brushing on some less glossy poly and see if you like it.

As for the stain. I would vote stain. There is tons of stains available if you look online or youtube videos have some cool applications of stains (and stain dyes). You seem to have a good grasp on things so much of it will be subjective taste of you- not sure I can provide any valuable input on what looks good to you. You know enough to figure it out, and I have confidence you will obtain great results smile.gif best luck! I can't wait to see the results! biggrin.gif

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post #824 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 04:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitChin2 View Post

Have you thought about linseed oil?  Possibly mixed with a bit of urethane.

I made some pieces out of Alder a while back and just oiled them - turned out very nice as it brought out the wood grain  and color without covering it up - finish was matte and gets a higher sheen the more you buff it.

Thanks,

That is a great idea.............I thought about Danish Oil and cover in a Polyurathane in satin. I'll keep that in mind.

As far as using plywood as a base plate, that too is what I was thinking. I can rip and be much straighter than some of the stock I've seen. My only issue is nailing vertical piece into 3/4 plywood and having it hold.
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post #825 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Can you go over the lacquer with a brush on polyurethane that is less shiny ? I did that on my hardwood floors (oil based) and it worked great. I thought the first was too glossy (it was for my taste). I think you can brush on poly over lacquer right ? I only say polyurethane because t's more brush friendly (but takes longer to dry) I guess you could spray lacquer again too- which dries faster but requires spraying and set up. You might want to pick a less obvious area or a scrap test and try brushing on some less glossy poly and see if you like it.

As for the stain. I would vote stain. There is tons of stains available if you look online or youtube videos have some cool applications of stains (and stain dyes). You seem to have a good grasp on things so much of it will be subjective taste of you- not sure I can provide any valuable input on what looks good to you. You know enough to figure it out, and I have confidence you will obtain great results smile.gif best luck! I can't wait to see the results! biggrin.gif

Thanks for the comments........

Lacquer is a solvent based top coat while the Polyurathane is water based. Sure, I could spray lacquer, but then oil and water based products don't like to be mixed ie. being placed on top of each other. Alder, especially Knotty Alder is hard to screw up with stain..........any screwup with blotching can be categorized as rustic.......a honey tone with variations of red, browns are typical. I just need to soften the brightness of the wood yet not destroy the wood grain from being seen. "Fruitwood" cut in half is my go to stain..........my columns are strong mixture and close to straight "Fuitwood" and a little too dark for my tastes........wife made that decision on straight up "Fuitwood". rolleyes.gif

In reality, the difference in close to straight "Fruitwood" stain and just Lacquer applied is very, very subtle. I'm ok with happy medium with cutting "Fuitwood" in half.

Thanks for the input......and like you, I'm really looking forward to getting wood on ceilings! Most will be shocked on how inexpensive this project will be! Will keep tabs on receipts and help those make up their mind on tacking such a project.
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post #826 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post


Thanks,

That is a great idea.............I thought about Danish Oil and cover in a Polyurathane in satin. I'll keep that in mind.

As far as using plywood as a base plate, that too is what I was thinking. I can rip and be much straighter than some of the stock I've seen. My only issue is nailing vertical piece into 3/4 plywood and having it hold.

Could use biscuit along this edge or if not much stress use glue with brads to hold until glue dries.

 

Here is a pick of recent table I finished this way (although several coats of BLO - I assume you want 1 or 2 for your application so as to be able to watch movies soon:p top is white pine slab with medium oak stain - at time of this pick I had buffed quit a  bit to bring up the shee but even here it is not over done - fewer coats and less buffing will be more "matte)

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post #827 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitChin2 View Post

Could use biscuit along this edge or if not much stress use glue with brads to hold until glue dries.

Here is a pick of recent table I finished this way (although several coats of BLO - I assume you want 1 or 2 for your application so as to be able to watch movies soon:p  top is white pine slab with medium oak stain - at time of this pick I had buffed quit a  bit to bring up the shee but even here it is not over done - fewer coats and less buffing will be more "matte)


Looks great! Love the wood in room and am sucker for green hues! Construction glue such as liquid nails was a thought to connect vertical pieces which will be 1 X 6 Knotty Alder. Could even use a Kreg jig and construct legs on ground and attach with fine thread screws thru DW, OSB and into channel. On center piece, inside of coffered ceiling, thinking of using 1/2 inch plywood and glue/nail into 1 X 6 bottom face.........way to not waste Alder material.
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post #828 of 1745 Old 05-29-2014, 07:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Just got done with meeting with mill rep and have found a solution for side of soffits. Instead of stacking three pieces of molding, it was decided to use 1X 12 to face soffit and attach crown to piece and tuck under light tray. Will use molding 4-1/2 " extending from crown on ceiling giving a 7-1/2" inch wide reveal. Evidently, my current crown is 4-12".........wondering how I missed that......thought it was 3-1/2"! redface.gif

I was concerned about weight of 1 X 12 along with pieces not being straight. Was assured all milled products will meet my expectations......and weight will not be an issue since milled 1 X 12 is actually 11/16th's inch..........if not satisfied with product pieces can be returned with no issue. In addition, one of a kind Custom milled piece will be made for underneath light tray. Design is TBA as I need to visit mill for specifics but both rep and I discussed possibilities. Here is picture for location of molding to light tray.....




All-in-all meeting went well...........nice to barter for finished product when you have already negotiated for Alder saw logs! biggrin.gif

This addition will not break the bank.......that I'm sure of.......... wink.gif
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post #829 of 1745 Old 05-30-2014, 06:22 AM
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Cool - nice when tough details start to come together!

 

That Alder will look very good in the room - and as yI think you are finding it is a reasonable price material when getting direct

 

Will all your lighting be down lights?  or will some light be shining to the ceiling as you enter the room?

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post #830 of 1745 Old 05-30-2014, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BitChin2 View Post

Cool - nice when tough details start to come together!

That Alder will look very good in the room - and as yI think you are finding it is a reasonable price material when getting direct

Will all your lighting be down lights?  or will some light be shining to the ceiling as you enter the room?

Currently I have 3 four inch cans washing screen and 8 four inch cans washing each column. In addition, I have 8 sconces on wall at 7 ft height in a room with 10 ft ceilings. Enough light so my wife uses room for reading.

With new addition looks like center will be 14' X 8' with tray lighting ie. rope light around perimeter. I'll have two beams cutting center piece into 1/3's which will have 4" cans aimed down at 1st and second row seating.

The Knotty Alder will be very reasonable since some of trim will be saw logs I'm trading for finished product. The most expensive part of this final project........and I whole hearted say that.......will be the 6 MSR 3D diffusers I will be using. Treating the ceiling which will act as a broad band absorber ie. 50 Hz on up will most definitely be the final touch along with Trinnov unit which will put this room in another category! I still need to sell my Krell Evo 403, Krell S-1507, and ATI 1807 to make way for new 6 channel amp. When complete, I can officially say..........

Done!


Or............I could do the happy dance! biggrin.gif


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post #831 of 1745 Old 06-02-2014, 05:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Big get together with friends from work tomorrow who have been begging to see room.

With anticipation of movie "Lone Survivor" which most have not seen.........well, should be a blast!

Surf -n- turf on menu........seafood fettuccini with jumbo shrimp and scallops.......filet mignon to finish off main entree. My favorite salad ie. broccoli is being made by wife even though she won't enjoy it. This is a no girls allowed event with several wives complaining foul!! biggrin.gif

Will be sweet to let subs out of their cage!
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post #832 of 1745 Old 06-03-2014, 06:41 AM
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Nice! Surprised you like broccoli and your wife doesn't. It's usually other way around. Run those subs HOT!

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post #833 of 1745 Old 06-03-2014, 10:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice! Surprised you like broccoli and your wife doesn't. It's usually other way around. Run those subs HOT!

Nothing better than a broccoli and bacon salad!

Get together was a hit.......everyone loved the room. When choppers were delivering troops, the room made you feel like you were actually there. Great movie........highly recommend Lone Survivor.

On a positive note, I recruited one of my friends to help me with coffered ceiling this Summer!
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post #834 of 1745 Old 06-05-2014, 01:34 AM
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Nothing better than a broccoli and bacon salad!

CanI have some (real) mayo with it?

Under construction: the Larch theater
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post #835 of 1745 Old 06-05-2014, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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CanI have some (real) mayo with it?

Sure! That's just one of several ingredients. I don't cook, but I can use our steam oven to cook up a mean shrimp and scallop mix! tongue.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #836 of 1745 Old 06-05-2014, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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A few profiles I'm looking at......mainly 5-1/4" og profile to extend from crown.




Have rough estimate for all Knotty Alder trim and I'll be receiving quite a deal. I don't expect to pay much more than $1000 in molding to finish coffered ceiling. To be honest, acoustical treatments will probably be slightly more than casing, lumber and other Knotty Alder products.

Here is a list of what I ordered in linear footage. I can have any profile made I want which I'm still working on.

4-1/2" crown...........130 LF
2-1/2 " og base...........70LF
5-1/4" og base..........130 LF
1 X 12" lumber...........70LF
1 X 6" lumber..............142LF
1 X 8" lumber.........,....,70LF

Still debating on using 1/4" Knotty Alder plywood to surround center platform which is 7.5 ft X 14 ft as currently designed. Approximately 34+ inches surround the outside of center piece structure holding treatments..........wife would like to keep current ceiling exposed, but I prefer wood ie. 1/4" plywood!! biggrin.gif
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post #837 of 1745 Old 06-06-2014, 04:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Well.....

I'm tired of borrowing my brother-in-law's compressor and finish nailer.

Any recommendations for pneumatic finish nailer and compressor? I'd like finish nailer able to use 1" to 2-1/2" 15/16 gauge finish nails. Really don't want two or three different guns.........
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post #838 of 1745 Old 06-06-2014, 04:59 PM
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I'm a Bostitch guy myself.
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post #839 of 1745 Old 06-07-2014, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm a Bostitch guy myself.

Thanks....,

After reading your post I looked for reviews which all were great..........15 gauge capable of shooting 1to 2-1/2 inch finish nails without jamming is my number one priority.........weight was after thought. I'm a big strong guy, but at my age maybe light weight would be wise! redface.gif

I'll head to HD or Sears today and take a look..........
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post #840 of 1745 Old 06-07-2014, 09:14 AM
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Well.....

I'm tired of borrowing my brother-in-law's compressor and finish nailer.

Any recommendations for pneumatic finish nailer and compressor? I'd like finish nailer able to use 1" to 2-1/2" 15/16 gauge finish nails. Really don't want two or three different guns.........

I have three compressors and about 8 brad nailers plus I have two cordless battery brad nailers.

Since I bought the cordless brad nailers I haven't used the air compressor ones. It's just not worth the trouble of the noise and hose. At first I thought that the cordless with battery would be heavier but actually with the strain of the cord weight pulling down or on the corded model they will fatigue your arms and shoulders easier.

Cost for a compressor can be $69-$499 depending on CFM and quality. But a cordless Ryobi at HD is like $129. Get the lightweight battery with it if you care about weight (I use the heavy big nicad). They make a finish nailer and an 18 brad nailer in bright green in the brad nailer isle - check it out.

As for compressors I have a Campbell housfeld (spelling?) that's decent, I recently bought that $180 upright from harbour freight (it's $149 sale this weekend) and I have a craftsman portable unit - the red one covered in plastic. The harbor freight is crazy annoying loud eek.gif For trim nailing I usually use the small portable craftsman , it's quietest and easiest to move around and set up. It kicks on a few more times due to the small tank but that's ok, it makes plenty of pressure to drive finish nails.

I'd get something like that plus an air gun or just jump right to cordless brad nailer. I'll never go back to cords.

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
Mfusick is offline  
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