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post #1261 of 1280 Old 07-20-2014, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Hard to tell on the fabric just looking at it by itself. How is your photoshop skills?


BT1

Terrible to non-existent!

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post #1262 of 1280 Old 07-20-2014, 02:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Anchorage in Onyx or FR701 in black. I'm not partial to anything but black on the ceiling for video performance reasons. I like the look / finish of the Anchorage better than the FR701, but would be a bit more nervous about wrinkles over time with such large ceiling panels because it is a more delicate crepe material. Obviously your choice, though.
Anchorage is tougher to work with ie. doesn't stretch as easily......well, compared to Meander.

Zirconia in color Obsidian was my second choice originally..........but I'm a sucker for green so went with color Boulder though it's more gray than green. Interesting on Anchorage being delicate.........not near as stretchy as other fabric.

Not a fan of black, but with speaker grills, seats and screen wall in black it does tie in.

T, what's you opinion of the last sample......Zirconia in Obsidian? It's dark but does have accents which picks up gray. Am worried with carpet pattern, Zirconia Obsidian may clash.

I have some Anchorage in Onyx left over......about a yard or two.......I'll go try my hand at being Martha Stewart for twenty minutes and check it out.
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post #1263 of 1280 Old 07-20-2014, 02:45 PM
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It's hard to say. Only lining up all the real-life samples will let you know definitively if all the hues will match.

Aside from keeping the ceiling as black as possible, the other reason to go with black would be to NOT highlight the 'cloud' (coffered inset) and let that beautiful knotty Alder to all the talking on the ceiling. Why distract from the woodwork with a patterned fabric?
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post #1264 of 1280 Old 07-20-2014, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post
It's hard to say. Only lining up all the real-life samples will let you know definitively if all the hues will match.

Aside from keeping the ceiling as black as possible, the other reason to go with black would be to NOT highlight the 'cloud' (coffered inset) and let that beautiful knotty Alder to all the talking on the ceiling. Why distract from the woodwork with a patterned fabric?
Yeah, you're right..............I don't have artistic/decorative sense at all.

Well, Anchorage in Onyx makes sense to tie in with screen wall.......

Thanks
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post #1265 of 1280 Old 07-20-2014, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Knotty Alder round two begins today.........

Just started sanding by hand beginning with 50 grit for knots and work my way down to 220. I could use my belt or orbital sander but believe I feel the wood's grain much better.........more work but finished product looks better.





Sanding vertical 1 X 8's and bottom beam 1 X 6's. Hitting 1000 with the 1 X 8's since all are workable but only hitting 500 with 1 X 6's. Have to return three out of six 10' 1 X 6 boards due to warp boards and knot holes that are too large to patch. Oh well..........






Taking a short coffee break since carpel tunnel syndrome is setting in...........

Tomorrow I will start mapping structure and screwing nailer boards in room...........feeling confident I can hit channels with 3" fine thread screws and then use 2-3/4" cabinet screws between channels. I will be using 5-1/3" screw pattern in side by side pairs..........overkill, probably........but I'll feel better watching a movie!

Only question I have, I prefer Spax screws but have 1/2 box of another brand leftover from last year which are 2-3/4" cabinet screws and plan on using them. Not a lot of weight with this project but still I worry about pull out stength of screws.
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post #1266 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Last night mapped out locations of all channels in room.......easy as pie! Found first channel them marked every 16 OC then repeated process on other side of room. Didn't get a chance to chalk line all channels but will do this morning once I get staining done.


If you need to locate metallic furring or clips/channels, the zircon 40S metal scanner is a must have! Extremely accurate tool finding channels!

Tested with two 2x4's and rafter square. Found both edges of rafter square through 3" of wood then measured/marked midpoint......done!

Must have tool!

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post #1267 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 07:48 AM
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Didn't get a chance to chalk line all channels but will do this morning once I get staining done.
I always hate the idea of plumes of chalk dust in a finished space without covering absolutely everything. Good luck and snap gently my friend!

I also just ordered one of the Zircon metal stud finders based on your recommendation. I know I'll need it in September, so might as well get it now.
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post #1268 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 08:35 AM - Thread Starter
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I always hate the idea of plumes of chalk dust in a finished space without covering absolutely everything. Good luck and snap gently my friend!

I also just ordered one of the Zircon metal stud finders based on your recommendation. I know I'll need it in September, so might as well get it now.
At first I was getting false reads but trick is scanning 1/2" off surface.......once I started doing that....PERFECT!

Marked first channel then used 25 ft tape to mark all 16 OC.......went back and tested every mark which was dead center as it should be! I was really anal retentive regarding setting/planning channel locations. Knew I would be facing this issue following year so took extra precautions.

Not every HD has the device.......when I traveled to Portland to experience Atmos theater, decided to pick up this device in Tigard.

Yeah, not looking forward to chalk lining..............
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post #1269 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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The quest for straight lumber has finally ended...........was on the phone with a friend who owns a specialty mill and by chance ask him about 1 X 6 Douglas Fir. His response was sure...... he had a stack of KD in warehouse and I should take a look. Stopped by this morning and was extremely happy what I saw! Straight, light KD Douglas Fir 1 X 6 boards for base screwing plates. 7 pieces of 1 X 6 KD Douglas Fir cost me just a Jackson! Sweet! Pays to live in "Timber Country!"

Home Depot wanted $4.50 each for green twisted gnarly crap! With a little know how.......paid approximately $2.85 each and have quality material.




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post #1270 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Question for the masses.......

Now I'm ready for base plates for coffers, I'm thinking foregoing application of adhesive glue to base plate. I did use adhesive on trim for soffit face since I was not using screws but nails. Since I'm screwing plate into channels and using cabinet screws every 5-1/3" thereafter........there's really no need for adhesive.

What do you guys think concerning skipping adhesive step?

Thanks
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post #1271 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 09:22 AM
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For the few bucks in adhesive, I'd want the additional peace of mind....but maybe that's just me and my OCD talking....
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post #1272 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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For the few bucks in adhesive, I'd want the additional peace of mind....but maybe that's just me and my OCD talking....
Only true advantage is board not slipping as much for placement along with bonding board as one piece to ceiling ie. Eliminate vibration.......

I'm paranoid about wife dropping piece and having liquid nails or PL Premium on carpet!

Liquid nails panel adhesive is water based and cleans very easily.........for piece of mind, maybe I should add adhesive though water based panel adhesive is not as strong as polyurethane construction adhesive. Oh well..........adhesive it is........
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post #1273 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok......need help immediately.

At Home Depot and need 2-3/4 fine thread screws.

My only option is 2-1/2" or 3". Screws will sink so maybe 2-1/2?

I'd really hate to fall short or break circuit of soundproofing.

Build up is 5/8 OSB+GG+ 5/8 DW+texture for Rock+ 3/4 Douglas Fir.

Need suggests ASAP since at HD

Thanks
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post #1274 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 11:08 AM
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2 inches of material to go through, plus the 1/8" thickness of the metal leaves you only 3/8" penetration, plus whatever the screw head sinks. The 3" would bottom out only on the spots where you hit a clip....but you could simply back out the screw and move it off the clip in order to not short-circuit the connection. I'd go with the 3" myself.....or better yet...find another store that has 2.75" screws, if possible.
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post #1275 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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2 inches of material to go through, plus the 1/8" thickness of the metal leaves you only 3/8" penetration, plus whatever the screw head sinks. The 3" would bottom out only on the spots where you hit a clip....but you could simply back out the screw and move it off the clip in order to not short-circuit the connection. I'd go with the 3" myself.....or better yet...find another store that has 2.75" screws, if possible.
Thanks,

Local Lumber yard doesn't have 2-3/4" neither Lowe's or HD. Special order!

Two inches of material like you said plus GG displacement and texture in rock must account for at least 3/16" so I was thinking 2-3/16" total........with suck up maybe 1/2" or less bite with 2-1/2" fine thread screw! Would prefer 5/8's to 3/4" bite.

I too was thinking 3" but like you said, hitting clip would be issue. With channel 7/8", I'm probably ok. Just call me a worry wart looking for validation.
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post #1276 of 1280 Old Yesterday, 04:36 PM
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I too was thinking 3" but like you said, hitting clip would be issue. With channel 7/8", I'm probably ok. Just call me a worry wart looking for validation.
Most of your channel screws will end up in the channel but not anywhere near the clip itself, meaning the length of screw is inconsequential since the screw tips would end up in the insulated space between the joists. If you happened to go deep enough to hit a clip, you should be able to feel that through the drill and all you'd have to do is remove the screw and move it an inch or two in either direction to bypass the clip.

I'll be interested to see this being built in the coming days. Keep up the great work!
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post #1277 of 1280 Old Today, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Atmos Implementation Starts Today!!

I've been planning this final step for a year when I actually had time to construct. Plan has taken many twists and turns.......what was once acoustical treatments with coffers has turned into an implementation of Dolby Atmos as primary purpose.

I've finalized a plan based on what little info is out in public domain and what Dolby has decided to leak concerning Atmos........most don't realize Atmos announcement was supposed to take place late August when specific details would be finalized.

Triad has been helpful but does not have definitive answers from Dolby so my construction plans are based upon best guess and what little information I have at my disposal.........I do have a little birdie on my shoulders who will most definitely help me when tough decisions have to be made concerning location and speaker angles to MLP. Due to room dimension issues, I 've decided to emphasize the front three seats for Atmos and rear seats will have compromises .....ie. not enough real estate for rear ceiling speakers for second row.......first row is fine.

From what I've been told by Triad in consultation with Dolby, front ceiling height speakers are most critical in implementing Atmos, minimum of at least four ceiling speakers with Dolby highly recommending six. In my discussions with Triad, no mention on location concerning width nor dispersal characteristics of speakers, just timbre matching was critical so eq plays a significant part if using varying models of speakers for LCR, side/rear surrounds and ceiling.

Based on Triad recommendations, my target is to make ceiling cloud 7-3/4 to 8" deep which I' going to have a hard time attaining. My vertical's are 7-1/4" with 1/4" reveal to beam which places structure at 7-1/2". If I add cove moulding to inside bottom beam, I may squeak out another 1/2 inch for a total of 8" depth.
Triad's recommendation using custom built Silver LCR in angle baffle may be my only alternative. In-wall Silver/ 4 LCR's might work given a jerry rigged ceiling bracket but speaker is huge at 4" X 14" X 26"........besides, I've tested possible angles in an 8" confine so at best I might be able to squeeze out 35-40 degree downward angle which might suffice. With this investment, might isn't good enough.

So..........based on information at hand, I was planning to build two 6' X 8'boxes with middle leg attaching both, but that design is problematic for middle ceiling speaker implementation, so I will be building a ceiling cloud 8' X 13' to house six ceiling speakers with 4" absorption with 2-3" air gap to help with LCR first reflections and SBIR issues with ceiling speakers...........any available space leftover in rear will have diffusion. May not be best plan down the road, but allows for future flexibility and is best plan with current available information.

We'll soon see how all pans out.........




BTW, cards are a visual metaphor.........
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post #1278 of 1280 Old Today, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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BTW,

Does anyone know how to modify thread title? I went to first post in thread and modified title........shows up at top of first post, but not in main menu thread title.

Changing title from "Coffin Build" to "Coffin Build Goes DOLBY Atmos."..........

Yeah, not too much imagination.......
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post #1279 of 1280 Old Today, 10:31 AM
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From what I've been told by Triad in consultation with Dolby, front ceiling height speakers are most critical in implementing Atmos, minimum of at least four ceiling speakers with Dolby highly recommending six. In my discussions with Triad, no mention on location concerning width nor dispersal characteristics of speakers, just timbre matching was critical so eq plays a significant part if using varying models of speakers for LCR, side/rear surrounds and ceiling.

Based on Triad recommendations, my target is to make ceiling cloud 7-3/4 to 8" deep which I' going to have a hard time attaining. My vertical's are 7-1/4" with 1/4" reveal to beam which places structure at 7-1/2". If I add cove moulding to inside bottom beam, I may squeak out another 1/2 inch for a total of 8" depth.
Triad's recommendation using custom built Silver LCR in angle baffle may be my only alternative. In-wall Silver/ 4 LCR's might work given a jerry rigged ceiling bracket but speaker is huge at 4" X 14" X 26"........besides, I've tested possible angles in an 8" confine so at best I might be able to squeeze out 35-40 degree downward angle which might suffice. With this investment, might isn't good enough.
Incredible set up you have there, it should sound awesome. I am using Triad Silver LCR's in my set up as well. I did not expect that they would recommend using them for the Atmos heights too. I would be curious to see some photos of how you accomplished this so I can copy it (as long as you don't mind at least...). Also very interesting to hear that 6 height channels are going to be recommended since none of this year's AVR's will do that.
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post #1280 of 1280 Old Today, 10:35 AM
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BTW,

Does anyone know how to modify thread title? I went to first post in thread and modified title........shows up at top of first post, but not in main menu thread title.

Changing title from "Coffin Build" to "Coffin Build Goes DOLBY Atmos."..........

Yeah, not too much imagination.......
It used to be under "thread tools" then "edit this thread" but the new format rather sucks so I am not sure.

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