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post #1 of 5 Old 11-18-2012, 10:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok i've been reading and reading and reading and taking notes literally all day but i need some clarification and expert backing here. I'm getting can lights put in my ceiling Tuesday and I need to tell the electrician how low to put them.

For my ceiling, from what i've read 2 layers of 5/8 drywall with GG in between is the way to go. However I don't have the tallest ceiling in my basement and was wondering if anyone knew the dimensions of sound clip and furring channel pieces. Also would it be advisable to JUST use the sound clips and not the channel?

Also, did i read correctly in that for walls going 24" instead of the standard 16" for studs is the way to go? If so how would i best stuff the batt insulation in those stud cavities?

Would it also be really worth it to insult the ceiling joists with batts and if so unfaced or faced toward the basement floor?

Thanks.

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post #2 of 5 Old 11-18-2012, 10:55 PM
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The channel is 7/8" tall. Different clips with have different dimensions, but I believe that the clips and channel system will lower the ceiling by about 1.5"-1.75".

You can also do something like this to save a little headroom.



Clips cannot be used without channel. You need both.

24" on center stud walls will allow some more flex and are preferred. Check your local building codes though. I believe that is is ok as long as they aren't load bearing.

They sell batt insulation that is made to be installed with 24" on center spacing.

Yes, insulate the ceiling with fiberglass batts too. Faced or unfaced doesn't matter much in this case, but the faced stuff allows you to staple it in place fairly easily.

A few more things;
1. I hope that you are treating the walls of the room as well. (decoupled, double drywall, green glue)
2. All of those can lights will need some sort of backer box to surround them and keep any sound from escaping through the hole that they make in your soundproof shell. Also, your electrician will likely want to rigidly connect them to the joists. This will recouple your ceiling to the house structure. You should be looking at fixtures that are "clipped" onto the drywall. Many are labeled as "old work" or "remodel" fixtures.
3. What about all the other penetrations (outlets, switches, HVAC)? Do you have a plan to address those as well?

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post #3 of 5 Old 11-19-2012, 07:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok i've crunched some numbers and it's getting fairly pricey for my budget and that's just for the ceiling. Honestly, do I really need to install furring channel and clips if I am doing double 5/8 drywall with green glue in between and batt insulation in cavities? What is the difference, will it be noticeable or are there any STC ratings done so that I can see some numbers first? Are there other slightly cheaper options? Perhaps sound pads or foam in the cavities? Also, thank you very much for addressing my questions quickly and full of information, I totally forgot about those clip can lights, with all the numbers rattling around in my brain sometimes I forget the simple common sense things.

Should I bring the stud walls directly up to the ceiling joists or leave a small gap and seal with a caulk?

Also I have 2 HVAC vents that run parallel with the ceiling joists and come down flush with them as well. Will this affect anything at all?

Also, I know this may seem like a very elementary question, but How should i run the drywall, vertical or horizontal on the walls?

Should I attach the outlets to the studs or clip it just to the drywall?

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post #4 of 5 Old 11-19-2012, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Will http://www.lowes.com/pd_118504-38269-TC1R_0__?productId=1006151&Ntt=can+light&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dcan%2Blight&facetInfo=
work with the double drywall, GG, furring channel/sound clip with backer box? It says it's not IC rated should that concern me, also are these 50watt bulbs bright? I plan on putting 6 in an 18x12 room.

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post #5 of 5 Old 11-21-2012, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Was wondering if anyone had any input on my last set of questions. Thanks.

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