Home theater constuction help - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay I've done some research and not finding all my answers. So I'm here for advice.
Background:
Not even considering A/V equipment yet. Typical colonial home in Northern VA (sunken living rm). HT will go in basement below (13' W x 20' D x 7' H). Three sided concrete walls, and concrete slab.
I've included pictures of the space below. You can see in the duct work where the ceiling drops. The shelves at the end will come out (that would be my screen wall).

Based on research was going to go with 2x3 studs, clips, hat channel, 7/16 osb, gg, 5/8 drywall on walls (will dd w/gg, on back of common wall to rest of basement).

Ready to finish the basement next week. I won't be doing ceiling and floor yet but need to plan for it.

I wanted to use drop ceiling in basement for access to plumbing/electrical etc. but have learned for HT it is pointless for soundproofing and a waste of other soundproofing you may have done, so will plan on clips, channel, dd. Can I use drop ceiling in rest of finished basement without issue?


Question:
1. If I float the entire wall using rsic or other equivalent under base plate and on top plate do I still need to use clips and hat channel on walls?

2. If I float the entire wall as above do I need to float the floor or can I carpet direct to slab?

3. I have plumbing out to a detached shop on 'front'/screen concrete wall that has ball valves and drain screws to winterize shop if necessary (see picture below). I will need to access this. How do I isolate an access without compromising the entire soundproofing? Should I just make a 3' closet/storage down that entire wall? If so how should I continue soundproofing in that closet to prevent 'leakage' upstairs? Would I use another solid core door with weatherstripping on closet like the HT entrance door?







Thanks,

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post #2 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 02:32 PM
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Can you post a layout, that helps
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post #3 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 03:12 PM - Thread Starter
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added my basement floorplan sketch above.

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post #4 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 03:41 PM
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You definitely want to keep the OSB+GG+GWB.

I've never seen the sole plate floated, not to say it's not possible. You could float the walls-to-joists with DC04's or similar.

I would recommend using a full 2x4. 2x3's are notoriously crooked and will probably cause more grief than they're worth.

The analogy often used is that your theater is an aquarium. You want to be able to fill the theater and nothing leaks out. You do not have to do the rest of the basement ceiling.

Looking at the diagram, the wall with the plumbing seems like the place to have your screen. Pull the screen out from the wall ~2 feet and sheetrock+caulk where the piping leaves the aquarium. With the screen away from the wall you can hide it and still have access.

What kind of shape is your floor in? Most people here choose the method used on the floor based on practice.. ie thei floor gets damp or is cold in the winter etc. Some people don't care and just carpet over the concrete.

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post #5 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Floor is never damp. Trying to keep the little bit of room height I have. I thought floor would need to be floated for sound proofing, so subwoofer sitting on floor is dampened/decoupled.

Yes plumbing is on screen wall was planning on using a drop down screen. So are you saying I should go ahead and build a false wall.

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post #6 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 04:27 PM
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I would build a typical screen wall. It's not a full 16-on-center wall.. it's just enough to hold the screen and hide the speakers. Look at the "Show Me Your Screen Wall" thread. Also search for "BigMouthnDC's Minimalist Screen Wall".

Damping the floor is not something frequently discussed, so I can't really help you with that. I will say that we usually build a stage and fill it with sand. The sub rests on the stage. IIRC the sand converts the energy from the subs into heat.

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post #7 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 04:44 PM - Thread Starter
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I guess I should have added in original post (will add) but I will also use the room for general lounging and kids gaming. I was going to mount a 50in led on wall for everyday use. Then have drop down for projector use. Will have couch, loveseat and chair that can be easly reconfigured in the room.
I will look at the other threads.

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post #8 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 04:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Ps. The plumbing is not big (1/2" and 3/4") and are tight to wall (stick out about 2-3 inches.

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post #9 of 13 Old 11-26-2012, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Pull the screen out from the wall ~2 feet and sheetrock+caulk where the piping leaves the aquarium. With the screen away from the wall you can hide it and still have access.
Tim

Having looked at the screen walls thread I better understand, however do I sound proof behind the screen wall as I am the rest of the room? or do I just concern myself with the ceiling and leave the wall bare concrete behind the screen?

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post #10 of 13 Old 11-27-2012, 01:00 AM
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You build a sound proofed drywall bunker on clips channel and with green glue. The false screen wall, stage and riser are built inside the bunker. You really need to slow down and have a better plan/layout before framing. You should contact Shawn Bryne for basic layout service. Sierra Mike Bravo on the forum
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post #11 of 13 Old 11-27-2012, 05:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you. I have read everything at soundproofing company and the sound isolation store. I've got the time, material and help of my father to start this weekend for the next 10 days for getting as far as I can finishing the basement of which the HT is only part of (entire basement is currently unfinished). I'm not planning or even thinking on getting the HT complete (or even the bathroom in the pic), sorry if it sounded like I was speeding on this part. However for Prince William county inspection I need the walls finished. Therefore I want to build the 'bunker' as you call it. There doesn't have to be a finished ceiling for this so I am leaving it open until further planning occurs. My immediate concern is the constructing the walls correctly without being overkill so it will be ready for future construction.

In the plan above I have the double door entry for soundproofing, using solid core interior door, however, this may be overkill, thoughts? I would rather have the floor space available in rest of 'recreation' area of basement if it is not needed.

Are clips and hat channel overkill for the three concrete walls?

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post #12 of 13 Old 11-27-2012, 10:54 AM
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If you use the IB3 clips for the top plate, Then many here have put the double layers of 5/8 fire code drywall up on the studs without clips and channel with satisfactory results. You should frame 24 inches OC if you go that route. I assume you plan on drywalling the ceiling in the theater and the sequence is ceiling wall ceiling wall to get a nice tight joint. You should also dress all the corner seams, ceiling and floor intersections with acoustical caulk. Before doing this you need to address the HVAC for the theater to be sure it is sufficient, quiet in operation and that it isolates the sound of the theater from other rooms. The only time to do this is before you drywall. Obviously you need to wire up the theater.
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post #13 of 13 Old 11-27-2012, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Updated first post with pictures of the space. Shelves in picture will come out.

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