The Larch Theater (a not-a-19.6-system) - Page 24 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #691 of 706 Old 02-24-2015, 11:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by just jim View Post
Yikes! That is about the weight of my 42" wide front door. If they don't have recommendations for hinges...I have 3 - 5" ball bearing hinges on mine. Four wouldn't hurt. Pre-drill the screw holes, preferably with a tapered drill the size of the screw shaft (without the threads). This will maximize the holding power of the screw without splitting the wood (which happens when you do not drill...the screw acts like a wedge). Make sure you either have a 38mm + thick door jamb or lumber behind to back it up with screws long enough to get into the lumber. If you go with the thick jamb, the screws should be longer than the thickness of the jamb. Here, we have "exterior door jams" that are 38-45mm with a 12.7mm rebate cut into them. The door sits in the rebate and therefore doesn't need door stop. You can also fit a seal into the rebate. One of the surface mounted drop down seals can take care of the bottom. You can also hide the drop down seal in the bottom edge of the door. I like to mount the hinges on the door and then shim it into the opening to get the gaps right all around and then mark the jamb with a knife for the top of each hinge. If the hinges are "open" the leaf will span across the gap onto the edge of the jamb to make it easy to mark. Note that even with a 5" hinge on a 1 3/4" door, the hinge should only be 1 1/2 - 1 3/8" onto the edge of the door so that it isn't seen on the backside of the door.
Good luck!
PS Is this going on the roof of your car?
The door comes with the doorframe and hinges. I built the inner wall for a standard door package 900x2100mm. It's just the handle and lock cylinder that's not included. I won't be surprised it there are seals in the frame already, 40dB probably isn't that easy to achieve.

They deliver by truck and at that price, freight is free of charge (or baked into their price to start with, rather).

Mounting the doorframe will be done with these:

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post #692 of 706 Old 02-25-2015, 05:21 AM
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Mounting the doorframe will be done with these:
Ikea?

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post #693 of 706 Old 02-25-2015, 05:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Ikea?
No, that's the standard screw for doorframes and windows over here. Two screws in one.

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post #694 of 706 Old 03-17-2015, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Been awhile since last pic. Have started to paint what is intended to hold the ceiling speakers permanently:


One screw in each side and 3M extra strong velcro inbetween.
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post #695 of 706 Old 03-22-2015, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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AT screen fabric fetched today. Next up to figure out how to build a close to 11 feet wide 16:9 frame that can be lifted/folded towards the ceiling if speakers need accessing...

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post #696 of 706 Old 03-22-2015, 12:34 PM
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Nightlord...I've been doing some research for building a DIY screen frame. Cooper Industries carries a resin/ fiberglass type unistrut channel. They have different connection pieces ( 90 degree/ flat T's etc) to connect the main lengths. I plan on using this strut because it will be really light but I will add some support pieces inside the frame for stretching the screen material on it. I'm going to face the open part of the strut towards the back of the screen wall and use " spring nuts" with bolts/ fender washers to affix my screen material eyelets. After that, a couple piano hinges to kick the screen up out of the way to access speakers. You may be able to utilize a couple truck cap hydraulics to help keep the screen up.
Just a thought to run across your mind....
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post #697 of 706 Old 03-22-2015, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Sounds interesting, but I need to source it locally and I prefer (most capable) to work with wood. But I will use some curtain rails for the pins to connect the screen o-rings too. If that will be enough to keep the wood from bending due to the screen I guess I can't know until I try.

So it's a balancing act between rigidity and weight. And I want as little metal close to the screen as possible- I work alone and don't want any scratches/tears of course.

Additionally I will need to invent some masking system later on as well.

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post #698 of 706 Old 03-23-2015, 04:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Lots of other stuff needing to be done now too. The front speakers will have to move to their proper proper positions. The dampening walls will have to be covered in black felt not to reflect too much light back onto the screen, speaker cables needs shortening an finalized in position. Might add some dampening material to the floor behind the screen too. Should simplyfy the remote controlled lights too, probably way too much cables for that.

And with the speaker movement, the acoustic needs to be checked for how it has changed between 80 and 250Hz. (Subs won't be moved).

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post #699 of 706 Old 04-02-2015, 02:52 AM - Thread Starter
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First frame version a fraction too weak. Doubled the top (glued it to start with, but will put a few bolts through as well) yesterday.
That the bottom is a bit weak will just help keep tension on the screen.
The weight is fantastically light, so folding it up and hang it in the ceiling while doing maintenance on the speaker system will be problem free.

As expected, I can't use it full size as 16:9, checked yesterday just how much disappears below the front seats, so I'll have to mask quite a bit of the bottom.

Next intersting issue after the frame is up is whether I made the projector hole big enough for it's widest zoom, or I need to open that up more.

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post #700 of 706 Old 04-03-2015, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Screen up. Hole is not an issue for the zoom range. End of zoom range is the stopping factor, so I will have 1.5' of extra width to use for next proj (and then the hole might be an issue!).

Have run through the basic Spears and Munsil test sceens to adapt to a white screen rather than a grey one. Might have gotten closer to the right colors by running the projs own defaults rather than 6500K actually.

The grey screen was probably a fraction better at getting both the white and black range right in the contrast settings, honestly, so I had to sacrifice some detail on the black side.

Still have no idea how to implement the masking, but honestly I'm not the most critical person in the world regarding that, so I'll let it take the time it needs to mature.

Pictures will come when neither the small minecrafter nor his mom is occupying my computer. (this is posted by iPad...)

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post #701 of 706 Old 04-03-2015, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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So, for the "this thread is worthless without pics" recap...

1st revision frame and (mostly) correct speaker placement:


In folded-up position:


Seymour AV screen mounted in slightly strengthened frame:

(It's straight, there are non-straight curtains hanging in front!)

Detail of mounting method (world 1st?):
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post #702 of 706 Old 05-01-2015, 03:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Spent most the week spring cleaning the garden... Rerouting the garden electricity and adding new garden 'mood' lighting, but today I went "what the heck" and did the side masking on the screen.

Top/bottom masking will be trickier and I haven't the full strategy set yet, but I think I'm getting there. Bottom masking is also a little tricker as I have one of those players that don't move the subtexts into the picture for 2.35:1.

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post #703 of 706 Old 05-13-2015, 10:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Nothing happening - too much garden projects going on. Got half a ton of extra graden tiles the other day that I hadn't planned on, so it will be an even larger undertaking. (And my back is already hurting...)

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post #704 of 706 Old 05-14-2015, 09:09 AM
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Oh yes...my garden. It is on the list isn't it. I still haven't gotten the grass to live at the front because of all the road salt that got shovelled there during the winters.

What are these graden/garden tiles for?

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post #705 of 706 Old 05-15-2015, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Definitely "garden". And it actually was a full ton.

I've had two tucked away disaster areas where unused flowerpots etcetera collected and weed grew taller, have turned one of them into a raised bed vegetable garden now, but to complete it I had to nick some tiles from the other area, so I needed to replace those tiles and when asking around I suddenly got more than I planned for, but I can definitely use them. So I have a good shot at clearing up disasterarea NorthEast as well.

I'll try to take a pic of what I have done this week, but I think I need to be on a ladder outside my garden to get a good overview given the lens I have.

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post #706 of 706 Old Today, 09:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Went to look at EPson LS10000 proj last friday, and I'm most happy with what I saw. Yes, it's a big thing, but so is the big Sonys. Picture wise it met all my expectations and with 4K material even more so. I'm not in the market at this pricetag, I'm giving it at least two more years for price drop before I start looking for real, so I have NOT seen all the competition.

I auditioned Dolby Atmos at the same time, and I must say the picture upgrade is much more thrilling than the audio one is... (It was Procella speakers at the store if anyone wonders)

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