The Larch Theater (a not-a-19.6-system) - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 591 Old 09-06-2013, 02:46 PM
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I was trying to think in Swedish when I wrote it! But all I got was the Swedish Chef from Sesame Street. biggrin.gif

Covered, it will be OK outside.

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post #182 of 591 Old 09-07-2013, 12:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Ah, that explains it. The Swede who was the inspiration for the muppet wasn't speaking Swedish at all - he was speaking a local tongue that only exists in a very small region on the Swedish-Norwegian border: Elfdalian. Can't make out very many words of that myself, about as hard as Icelandic.

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4nrbebx-pUU&feature=relmfu
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post #183 of 591 Old 09-07-2013, 05:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by just jim View Post

The usual method is to get everything ready, the plastic sheet lined up perfectly, get the first staple in, only to find that you are out of staples. biggrin.gif.

Just cut the first piece of plastic (2m70 wide on the roll. 4m75 cut off to have 30cm hanging down on the sides).

Checked stapler - 4 staples left. Are you psychic, or are you perchance related to THE Murphy? biggrin.gif

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post #184 of 591 Old 09-07-2013, 11:35 PM
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biggrin.gif

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post #185 of 591 Old 09-08-2013, 05:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Having a bad cold this weekend, so sweating profoundly over the slightest of work, but slowly entering Dexter-territory now.
avs29.jpg

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post #186 of 591 Old 09-08-2013, 09:33 PM
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Just make sure to cover the speakers. Don't want them splattered and smelling of bleach! wink.gif

Well done! Looks like you kept parallel to the joist within a cm!

Was the chef actually speaking that dialect? I thought it was gibberish with an accent. biggrin.gif

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post #187 of 591 Old 09-08-2013, 11:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. Guess I'm too much of a perfectionist as this is in the "that'll have to do" territory rather than completely happy. But good enough not to pull down and scrap. Ceiling that is. Walls I'm pretty happy with. If I put it in a certain direction, there was a fold about 20cm from the edge which worked great to line up with, I'll keep doing that for the walls.

Started on the actual front wall yesterday too, thinking it'll save me moving things at least once.

ah! No, there WAS a Swedish chef once invited to cook for some American tv-show, but they had not given him any instructions on what to do or say... so he decided to describe what he was doing in his local language. That's what Jim Henson saw and created the Swedish Chef-muppet from.... And he most likely does gibberish with an accent.... from how they thought the real one sounded like. Thus... Elfdalian, not Swedish.
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post #188 of 591 Old 09-09-2013, 01:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Almost a first layer on front wall.
avs30.jpg

But must confess that top one was difficult to put, so the next one that has to go into tongue&groove on the side of it will be even worse and for the last one, I'll have to cut off the T&G sideways to even have a shot at it.

But with that said... the pieces put has been much easier than anticipated.

It's 18mm fibreboard that's meant for flooring... the OSB comes on too bit boards, so I figured 18mm of this might be close to 12mm of OSB... Might be wrong, but please let me delude myself if you know contrary...

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post #189 of 591 Old 09-10-2013, 03:08 PM
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If you put the 1st top piece on the right, then you could cut the back of the groove off and still have overlap on the side joint. biggrin.gif The front of the groove would be against the tongue.

I assume your OSB has large chips of wood, like our. Is your fiber board compressed saw dust? Which we call particle board...and you use it for floors? eek.gif Tell me there is actually fibers in it...

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post #190 of 591 Old 09-10-2013, 11:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Ah... that was a solution I didn't contemplate. I'll try it next piece that needs it.

Front wall is done now. Have brought out the caulk gun again to do the perimeter before I start on the walls. It will be a good overlap, the crack is about 10mm at the widest, so the wall boards will cover that nicely. smile.gif

It seems like these boards have different layers. The surfaces are definitely compressed saw dust, but the inner part have larger chips like OSB.



I think they are Norweigian made by "Forestia".

I believe OSB has larger chips and they are aligned, this is probably a bit more random?

I found they carried 12mm now too, I'll probably try that one for the ceiling, it will be less difficult to lift, these 18mm ones are just on my limit to handle safely. I'll go check the renting place to see how small lifts they have, if I can get one home and in at all.

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post #191 of 591 Old 09-11-2013, 08:17 AM
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What is this "mm" you speak of? Is that some kind of third world measuring standard? smile.gif
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post #192 of 591 Old 09-11-2013, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post

What is this "mm" you speak of? Is that some kind of third world measuring standard? smile.gif

It's 1/1000th of the international measurement unit, the meter.

As a reference to long outdated units. 25.4mm used to be called an inch a century ago.
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post #193 of 591 Old 09-11-2013, 03:36 PM
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Actually, the inch is still alive and on life support until "somebody" joins the rest of the world in the 21st century and we can pull the plug! eek.gif Since so much of our trade is with our neighbours to the south we still have to keep it. So we function using two complete measurement systems. When you see "them" at the gas pump, they look like they want to cry when they pump 4X the number of litres than their gallons. biggrin.gif (Microsoft even wants to spell "litre", liter! We won't get into the US gallon which is only 128 ounces compared to the internationally used imperial gallon at 160 ounces.) We used to buy a gallon of paint and it was 160 oz, then with the introduction of the metric system, it became a metric equivalent to 132 oz.. Funny thing I don't remember the price going down the proportional amount...mad.gif

However scientific research both sides of the boarder is in metric.

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post #194 of 591 Old 09-11-2013, 08:17 PM
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I am new to your thread, so forgive me for a long 1st post.

- A lot of people follow a thread without posting numerous and inane replies. I love that, because it makes the threads in which I am interested easier to read. The people participating in this thread actually ADD to the knowledge. Thank you all.

- Wood vs Steel framing members - IMHO, you made excellent choices. Wood framing sounds better (less resonance) and is MUCH easier to anchor items like drywall, surround speakers, artwork, acoustic panels, etc

- The use of a steel member for your bottom header, anchored with isolation hardware, is GENIUS!! I have never seen someone combine steel and wood framing components to such an advantage. Well done, sir. I WILL be stealing that idea.

- I also like your combination of DIY and purchased diffusors. The 2'x2' diffusors resemble the Auralex branded items that I own and your ceiling treatment is both cost effective and functional.

- One of my concerns are the lateral braces in your framing. Those are common here in the USA on walls taller than 8' and they are a certified "bitch" for retrofitting wiring, especially with insulation. The horizontal blocking will hinder future wiring runs, so insure your room is "future proofed" with conduit runs that you pre-install. Simple PVC pipe works very well. They don't completely prevent future runs, but a little planning makes future upgrades much easier.

- I agree that skilled tradesmen, especially finish carpenters, wood joiners, painters and plasterers are on the decline. Those guys are true artists and the time it takes to become proficient in plaster and fine joinery seems beyond the grasp of recent generations. Highly skilled woodworkers seem to be limited to VERY expensive providers in the US and areas of Southeast Asia/Pacific Rim like Thailand and Taiwan. I am into boats (42' plus trawlers/sport fisherman and such) and those guys are VERY hard to find.

- If you will permit me, I think I have seen suppliers of recording studio acoustic supplies, like Auralex, Sonex, etc. which could have helped you shorten timelines and decrease design/build effort. Perhaps you looked at those and I missed it in the thread. I see opportunities like Z-channel to isolate drywall, floor pucks to isolate seating areas, absorption/diffusion and other areas. Auralex has proven especially helpful to me. There are many others.

- Kudos for the DIY speaker kits and corner sub installs. I am definitely stealing your sub installs, but adapting them to soffits, stage faces, corners, etc... BTW, that veneer is gorgeous!

- The red carpeting is great, but it will, practically, glow during video presentations, especially if you go to a large screen and powerful projector in the future.

- Caulking - Wow the caulk you have put out!!! I know that it helps with leakage and your efforts are worthwhile. I have two thoughts. One, is some kind of air sprayable foam, elastomeric roofing cover or "automotive undercoating" which could seal all those T&G joints and other joints that you sealed manually with caulk. Two, I fell in love with my Ryobi battery powered caulk gun. It has a consistent caulk output and my forearms don't cramp after the first hour!

- Despite my criticism/suggestions, I LOVE... LOVE... LOVE... your installation. Keep on!

- MY SECOND MOST IMPORTANT POINT - This is all done by ONE guy???? I know you had some guests help out, but this is VERY impressive and inspirational to me, as I prefer to work alone. Also, kudos for working in a space full of the stuff that has to stay there. An empty room, with storage elsewhere, spoils a lot of us in the US where space is not so expensive.

- MY MOST IMPORTANT POINT! - I am so impressed by the polite and respectful posts on this thread. There are so many websites where people shout back and forth about what a dumbass the other guy is... I joined this site BECAUSE of THIS thread! My favorite observation is how aware everyone is that language barriers play such a key role. I don't know what your first language is, but your English is a level of magnitude better than ANY second language that I speak.

I look forward to future progress on your build.

Thank you for posting it.

Again, apologies for the long post.

From Alabama,

Dale
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post #195 of 591 Old 09-11-2013, 08:42 PM
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Sorry ... but here I go with another inane reply !

Just wanted to confirm the technical superiority of the mm ... in the '50s the definition of an inch was officially changed to be exactly 25.4mm. This changed an inch by about 2 parts in a million !

mm rule !!! rolleyes.gif

Cheers,
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post #196 of 591 Old 09-11-2013, 10:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Dale.... oh my... wasn't prepared for so much praise in one post. I think I'll have to soak it up over a few days.

The lateral bracing vs. wiring.... yes, I definitely see your point, but my main concern is sound proofing so I don't want more holes in the walls than needed. I have electrical outlets in the rear wall so I don't see that I really need any more. Any other electrical wires needed (lights) will be drawn on the outside of walls (in soffits or similar). In stark contrast with many others, I'm not allergic to see a cable. biggrin.gif

About red carpet... That's a concession to my wife. She would have wanted the chairs red, but they weren't available in red (at least not at the time I saw the deal on them). But I have given thought to doing it dual color; red on the back platform and black in front of the screen. I'll float that for approval in a year's time or however long it takes to get to the carpet.


Yes, everything has been built by me so far. Oh, sure the kids have handed me a tool or a few screws now and then when they've been around checking out the goings on. The inner-acoustic design was done by the designer of the loudspeakers, unfortunately having to change the room dimensions for soundproofing probably invalidates that in parts, but I don't really feel for spending that money again "for the same thing", so I think I'll have to use my own head for how to adapt it. I'm not feeling that I will be able to do a good job with wall-to-wall carpeting, so when we get there, I'll have to fork up some cash for professionals... With that said.... I'm not close to being a professional with any of this, I'm a computer engineer, so if this thread can help push the message "Yes, you can!" then I'm extra happy. Plan and discuss first, let things mature in head and/or on paper and then go slow and carefully. I try to envision the difficult parts before they happen and if I can make them go away by changing design/picking other materials then I'll do that.

My 1st language is Swedish (Scanian dialect). I have been feeling extra crippled during this thread, it's quite obvious that we never learned the words for building construction in school so I've had to learn a word or fifteen... biggrin.gif

I'm happy the thread has been polite, some minor funny bashing is quite ok in my book. I'm the first one to call myself a dumbass, though, so no one else needs to drop by to deliver the 'news'.

No apologies needed - I'm very happy after reading it. smile.gif And - Welcome to AVS!

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post #197 of 591 Old 09-11-2013, 10:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Microsoft even wants to spell "litre", liter!

I don't mind if they do - that's proper Swedish. wink.gif

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post #198 of 591 Old 09-13-2013, 02:51 PM
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Bra jobbat!. Från en transplanterad svensk i Minnesota.
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post #199 of 591 Old 09-14-2013, 02:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Tack! smile.gif

Used to have emigrated relatives over there, but that line has died out now as far as we know.

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post #200 of 591 Old 09-17-2013, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Three boards and some taping done today. Most of the evening spent on trying to revive a dying drying cabinet with a new thermostat. Unfortunately and $100 wasted, that was not the illness, so operation sucessful but patient died. Also got me a couple of 240V shocks to my bad arm when trying to delve deeper into the true cause ( the combined motor/powersupply has temperature switchoff inbeded ). So, that will be a big setback in the economy for a few months to finance a new one... I could jury rig it another way, but I'd never feel safe leaving home with it running.

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post #201 of 591 Old 09-18-2013, 09:35 PM
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Do you have a company that re-wires motors and switches? We have them listed under Auto electrics or motor repair. Usually pretty "cheap". (relative to new)

Be careful with that arm! Those speakers are too heavy to move with only one! wink.gif

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post #202 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 12:08 AM - Thread Starter
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No, I don't know of such places and I think this part is very special for the application and what if, just what if... I'm wrong about the fault once more? No, one attempt is enough. Have ordered a new one, it'll arrive on the 24th.

All the semi-OSB-boards for the walls that's planned for the 2013-season are up now. Some more plastic in the crossover zone to put up, some more taping over staples in the ceiling and more caulking... and figure out how I want to go at the celing boards...

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post #203 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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A friend gave me an idea on how to build your own drywall lift instead of renting that was potentially better/easier than the idea I had had but given up on. Have pondered over his design a few days and found some possible flaws with it so I wasn't sure, but today I had a spark of (hopefully) good ingenuity so I have shopped a few parts and may have the rest that's needed at home. If it works out as intended, I will have NO pressure with ceiling build at all.... Keep your fingers crossed!

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post #204 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
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A friend gave me an idea on how to build your own drywall lift instead of renting that was potentially better/easier than the idea I had had but given up on. Have pondered over his design a few days and found some possible flaws with it so I wasn't sure, but today I had a spark of (hopefully) good ingenuity so I have shopped a few parts and may have the rest that's needed at home. If it works out as intended, I will have NO pressure with ceiling build at all.... Keep your fingers crossed!

my step dad used to just use 2 x 4's screwed together. didn't make it super easy to get it up there but once you got in place you just screwed it in.
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post #205 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
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my step dad used to just use 2 x 4's screwed together. didn't make it super easy to get it up there but once you got in place you just screwed it in.

My Dad dad that growing up, but instead of screws used wood clamps. Not as slick as a drywall lift, but a helluva lot cheaper!
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post #206 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't have enough hands to put the board up with two hands and use a third to put a 2x4 to hold it. I'm sure your Dad enjoyed his mutation. biggrin.gif

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post #207 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
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My Dad dad that growing up, but instead of screws used wood clamps. Not as slick as a drywall lift, but a helluva lot cheaper!

Either I don't understand what you mean, or he didn't have a layer of plastic in between joists and drywall to maintain.

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post #208 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 12:14 PM - Thread Starter
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No work on the lift today, got a huge blister on my thumb while bbqing, so no work with tools until nerves has properly died off... Coals can be bloody hot....

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post #209 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
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Either I don't understand what you mean, or he didn't have a layer of plastic in between joists and drywall to maintain.

Fair enough. It was just a normal ceiling, so there wasn't that to deal with.

What bothered you about your friend's design?
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post #210 of 591 Old 09-19-2013, 11:16 PM - Thread Starter
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That I would have had to drill straight holes with correct diameter to stick the "helping hands" through... and that it would still be wobbly. I think/hope my design will prove more/sufficiently stable.

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