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post #301 of 1099 Old 02-03-2013, 09:12 PM
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TMcG,

 

I have waded through your whole build thread today and must say that I'm astounded at your level of detailed planning and your attention to all the little things going into the build of your theater.  Not to mention your perseverance!  I truly hope you meet your wife's due date deadline and I'll say a prayer for you that she doesn't go into premature labor.  Believe it or not, the OB's recommend a glass of wine to settle down premature contractions near term!  Seems that works great for dads around that time as well...

 

I'm sorry to go back to the beginning of the conversation, but that's the stage where I am at right now in my theater plan.  The basic shape and size of the room are set and I have to nail down the screen size and seating distances and configurations now as that helps me settle a host of other decisions that are still pending so I can get my project off the ground.  In looking at your top-down plan sketch, you've listed a front row seating distance of 9.5' and and a second row seating distance of 15.5'.  In conjunction with your amazing 141" x 60" screen, I've calculated your viewing angles as (H/V) 63 degrees/30 degrees for the first row and 41 degrees/19 degrees for the second row.  It seems that the second row seats are close to ideal (at least as determined by THX and SMPTE) who seem to gravitate to somewhere around 36-50 degrees H and 15-20 degrees V.  But the front row seems awfully close with viewing angles significantly wider than generally recommended.  

 

My question is whether the first row viewing angles were considered at all in the room layout design or if it was a matter of designing for the second row and putting in the first row and telling those guys to deal with it and be thankful they got a ticket to the show!  I don't remember if it was your theater build thread or another that was considering getting rid of the bar in the back.  But would moving everything back a couple of feet help equalize the experience for people in each of the two rows?  


I am dealing with exactly this question now in my design which, with 2 rows like your set up would put my first row at 1x the screen width of 120" (1.78 screen) or viewing angles of 53 degrees H and 32 degrees V.  I was able to test sit a theater at the local Magnolia which had a 120" wide 2.35 screen (120" x 51") which would be viewing angles of 53 degrees H and 24 degrees V.  We found this image to be very large (and enveloping would be the positive spin) but near the upper limit of what we would find acceptable.  Extrapolating in my mind to a 1.78 image, I can see how that could start to get uncomfortably large.  I think that for a 120" wide screen in my room, an ideal seating distance would be at about 15' from the screen but that would limit me to one row given my other room constraints.  So the dilemma is whether to go with one ideal row, or two rows where one is close to ideal (1 foot difference) and the other is quite a bit away from ideal (5 foot difference).

 

The one seating arrangement that may get two rows closer to ideal may be to have non-reclining seats in the second row at about 16' from the screen (1 foot off of ideal) and the first row could be pushed back to close to 11.5' (or 3.5 feet off of ideal).  I think that 1.5' feet would make a pretty big difference, but I haven't run across any setups in stores with screens/seating distances matching what I'm trying to design for to do a test sit.

 

So I guess I just wanted to know how you analyzed and rationalized the inevitable compromises that we make all along the way in bringing our design concepts and dreams into physical reality.


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post #302 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by RossoDiamante View Post

TMcG,

......... Believe it or not, the OB's recommend a glass of wine to settle down premature contractions near term!  Seems that works great for dads around that time as well.......

Not to derail the conversation, but I'd ask my pediatrician about that. OB's take care of moms. Pediatricians take care of the baby (of course, that's an oversimplification, but you get my point). I'd be interested in seeing a study that recommends alcohol for the baby.

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post #303 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 09:10 AM
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At least you are not thinking of restricting the glass of wine for the dad!  :-)


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post #304 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 09:20 AM
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At least you are not thinking of restricting the glass of wine for the dad!  :-)

The way I see it, Dad's gotta drink enough for two, right? biggrin.gif
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post #305 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 09:32 AM
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post #306 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 10:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Too funny! Now we have forum members holding progress pictures hostage for other members progress pictures. This IS a new twist.

Question. Regarding the double layer of drywall, GG, and caulk on the underside of the subfloor. Is this something that is done in addition to a room within a room construction, isolation/insulation, clips and channel. I understand why it is done. Just not in what situation it is used and with what other construction methods to get the best results. I'm still pretty uneducated on all of the isolation/insulation construction and applications. Lots to learn in this area I have yet to do. Probably need to spend a lot more time at The Sound Proofing Company's web site learning. biggrin.gif

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I'm doing it all for you, RT!! tongue.gif I have some pics to post in a separate progress update, but I think you would be pleased - it includes pictures of carpet, some door hardware, the RGB LED lighting column mock-up and progress pics on the second layer of drywall in between the joists in the ceiling. Plus I found several original Art Deco metal pieces that could be wound nicely into the design. And....it's not finished yet, but I have scrapped the idea of mimicking that lighting sconce for the decorative metalwork and have instead started to pencil in a design that is very clean and will scream Art Deco. As soon as I have it finished I will post here for comment.

Regarding your question . . . this is something that is in addition to room within a room. This process is primarily designed to limit the transmission of footfall noise from above, especially because we have Brazilian Walnut hardwood flooring directly above most of the theater. I am sure there is some minor soundproofing benefit to stopping sound from leaving the theater as well, but that's not the primary reason to undertake this part of the project. If I could, I would have totally decoupled the ceiling from the joists above using Ted White's method of floating new joists on top of the decoupled walls shown HERE as this is the definitive way to decouple the room. I have a bay window that required five joist bays be cantilevered to support the load which requires that these joists run perpendicular to all the other joists. So because I could not float new joists between the old for a significant portion of the room I decided to do the best I could without this decoupling. I have built completely separate walls which will be decoupled using Kinetics Noise Control CWCA brackets found on page 4 of their pdf HERE. And instead of clips and channel for the ceiling I am going to try a relatively new product that has really good noise control specs called the Kinetics Noise Control WAVE hanger.

HERE is the link you need to the Soundproofing Company's website that shows the progressively higher STC ceiling soundproofing construction methods. I am doing a modified version of Level 5 since I am using WAVE hangers instead of clips. Both are channel-based systems that decouple the structure, but the WAVE hangers use suspension as a "shock absorber" and the clips from the Soundproofing Company use Neoprene or rubber to damp the vibration. Two completely different methods, but each certainly has its merits.

With my hectic travel schedule this month I am going to try like Hell to get the soundproof shell completely finished by the end of February. You'll be able to see how I put everything together because I will take some detailed progress pictures along the way. I will point out ahead of time that the Kinetics system is a bit different since the ceiling has to hang within the walls of the soundproof shell to dampen the vibration. So you will see me fully building out all of the walls first and then installing the ceiling hangers and ceiling sheet materials. This will be a definite visual change from what you are used to seeing.
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post #307 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RossoDiamante View Post

TMcG,

I have waded through your whole build thread today and must say that I'm astounded at your level of detailed planning and your attention to all the little things going into the build of your theater.  Not to mention your perseverance!  I truly hope you meet your wife's due date deadline and I'll say a prayer for you that she doesn't go into premature labor.  Believe it or not, the OB's recommend a glass of wine to settle down premature contractions near term!  Seems that works great for dads around that time as well...

Thanks for the kinds words Rosso, much appreciated! I think I will have to be the one to drink for two even after the baby is born because if I am not mistaken alcohol and breastfeeding are also a no-go for new moms. We are unfortunately still struggling through this whole pregnancy, including a five hour stint in the hospital yesterday morning. Everything's OK again for now, but I'm not going to sugarcoat things and say that it has been easy for my wife thus far.
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I'm sorry to go back to the beginning of the conversation, but that's the stage where I am at right now in my theater plan.  The basic shape and size of the room are set and I have to nail down the screen size and seating distances and configurations now as that helps me settle a host of other decisions that are still pending so I can get my project off the ground.  In looking at your top-down plan sketch, you've listed a front row seating distance of 9.5' and and a second row seating distance of 15.5'.  In conjunction with your amazing 141" x 60" screen, I've calculated your viewing angles as (H/V) 63 degrees/30 degrees for the first row and 41 degrees/19 degrees for the second row.  It seems that the second row seats are close to ideal (at least as determined by THX and SMPTE) who seem to gravitate to somewhere around 36-50 degrees H and 15-20 degrees V.  But the front row seems awfully close with viewing angles significantly wider than generally recommended.  

My question is whether the first row viewing angles were considered at all in the room layout design or if it was a matter of designing for the second row and putting in the first row and telling those guys to deal with it and be thankful they got a ticket to the show!  I don't remember if it was your theater build thread or another that was considering getting rid of the bar in the back.  But would moving everything back a couple of feet help equalize the experience for people in each of the two rows?

I am knowingly planning for the second row of seats to have the 100% ideal setup and every other seat "gets what it gets". That being said, there was a bit of an update since that hand drawing that is reflected in the CAD I have from Dennis. We worked hard to keep the seating where it is while reducing the depth of the IB chamber, baffle wall and screen wall to bare minimums without sacrificing any performance. This also required that I change from a manifold configuration to an array configuration for the subwoofers. Still being debated is whether or not I will scrap the IB sub array and delve into building a properly sized back box for some other more powerful subwoofer drivers. I look to make a decision on this in the coming weeks, obviously before wiring and baffle wall construction begin.

So the front row viewing distance now sits at approximately 11.5' to 12' from the screen and the money row is 17.5' to 18' from the screen. If you rerun these numbers through your angle calculations you will see that I am within specification for all seating - including a sweet spot in distance for the second row. Now, regarding back bar.....it may be eliminated for a couple of reasons. First is that I may not have adequate depth to really make it worthwhile without feeling cramped. Second is that I will have a perimeter soffit and since the back bar is on a riser base, headroom becomes an issue. I might have 6'5" between the top of the riser and the bottom of the soffit. And finally, there is a lot of added cost to a back bar between the granite, carpentry, seating, etc. that I don't know if I can afford right at the beginning. I could always add it later with proper planning.

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I am dealing with exactly this question now in my design which, with 2 rows like your set up would put my first row at 1x the screen width of 120" (1.78 screen) or viewing angles of 53 degrees H and 32 degrees V.  I was able to test sit a theater at the local Magnolia which had a 120" wide 2.35 screen (120" x 51") which would be viewing angles of 53 degrees H and 24 degrees V.  We found this image to be very large (and enveloping would be the positive spin) but near the upper limit of what we would find acceptable.  Extrapolating in my mind to a 1.78 image, I can see how that could start to get uncomfortably large.  I think that for a 120" wide screen in my room, an ideal seating distance would be at about 15' from the screen but that would limit me to one row given my other room constraints.  So the dilemma is whether to go with one ideal row, or two rows where one is close to ideal (1 foot difference) and the other is quite a bit away from ideal (5 foot difference).

The one seating arrangement that may get two rows closer to ideal may be to have non-reclining seats in the second row at about 16' from the screen (1 foot off of ideal) and the first row could be pushed back to close to 11.5' (or 3.5 feet off of ideal).  I think that 1.5' feet would make a pretty big difference, but I haven't run across any setups in stores with screens/seating distances matching what I'm trying to design for to do a test sit.

So I guess I just wanted to know how you analyzed and rationalized the inevitable compromises that we make all along the way in bringing our design concepts and dreams into physical reality.

In light of my comment above, I am open to making slight alterations to the plan for the benefit of all . . . but not by much. A front row viewing distance of 12' for that size of screen is still large, but can be comfortable. I am also wiring for 9.4 surround sound which means that this row will get their own pair of side speakers for optimal sound. So the front row is not being completely forgotten acoustically and visually speaking. But considering that my wife and I will be in the money seats 99.9% of the time by ourselves, there is little to dissuade me from not optimizing the whole room exclusively for the second row of seats where I will be sitting.

Thanks for following along. Let me know your feedback when you can.
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post #308 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I like the Art Deco theme idea. Subscribed. wink.gif

Thanks for subscribing Landshark1! Excellent job on your cozy modern theater, by the way! Love the "feel" of it.
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post #309 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 01:38 PM
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I don't think there is anything wrong with designing for a sweet spot.  Especially when that seat is reserved for me!  But at a certain point, you want your guests to have a great experience as well.  Otherwise, might as well just have them upstairs in the kitchen doing the dishes!

 

I agree that your repositioning the first row to 1x the screen width puts you in a place where the first row gets a "large" picture but not into the uncomfortable range (at least to my eyes and my wife's eyes).  And it sounds like you did it by moving the screen wall farther forward towards the front wall instead of moving the seating array towards the back row; thus preserving your bar option.

 

This brings up an audio question.  I know in a typical stereo setup, the speakers need a good amount of room between the rear of the speaker and the front wall in order to image well and generally sound good.  In a theater setup, it seems that the goal is absorb and nullify any reflected sound coming off the front wall and rely on the multiple discrete sources throughout the room to create the depth in the sound field.  So does this obviate the need to have this space between the back of the speaker and the front wall?  Is it different with different types of driver technologies -- compression horns of your Procellas vs. dome tweeters like the B&W's for example?  Assuming you had an absorber of infinite capacity and perfect efficiency, could you just slap the speakers flush with the front wall and have them sound good in a theater setup?  In the real world, absorbers are not infinitely capable and perfectly efficient, so I suspect that space between the back of the speaker and the front wall serves to 1) increase the time delay between the direct sound and the reflected sound and 2) to decrease the amplitude of the reflected signal that needs to be absorbed, thus helping the absorber (of whatever type) work better.

 

It's all a matter of compromises, isn't it?


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post #310 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 01:52 PM
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This brings up an audio question.  I know in a typical stereo setup, the speakers need a good amount of room between the rear of the speaker and the front wall in order to image well and generally sound good.  In a theater setup, it seems that the goal is absorb and nullify any reflected sound coming off the front wall and rely on the multiple discrete sources throughout the room to create the depth in the sound field.  So does this obviate the need to have this space between the back of the speaker and the front wall?  Is it different with different types of driver technologies -- compression horns of your Procellas vs. dome tweeters like the B&W's for example?

No, that's just a misconception about stereo. Stereo people does not seems as willing to do major acoustics work as home theater people do. Very many high end stereo speakers would benefit severely from beging put in front of a well dampened wall ( leave some gap in the middle so you don't kill too much of late refexes).

Having a wall reflex arriving a bit later can give you an artificial depth to recordings, but it's not recording based but rather something that can leaf to sameness boredome after the initial honeymoon.

About the dampening, you have to consider the wavelength compared to the reflex delay, going lower the problem is not as big, so that you cannot deaddampen the bass is not an issue. Rather you want as much support from a hard wall as you can get not to waste good bass. biggrin.gif

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post #311 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't think there is anything wrong with designing for a sweet spot.  Especially when that seat is reserved for me!  But at a certain point, you want your guests to have a great experience as well.  Otherwise, might as well just have them upstairs in the kitchen doing the dishes!

I agree that your repositioning the first row to 1x the screen width puts you in a place where the first row gets a "large" picture but not into the uncomfortable range (at least to my eyes and my wife's eyes).  And it sounds like you did it by moving the screen wall farther forward towards the front wall instead of moving the seating array towards the back row; thus preserving your bar option.

This brings up an audio question.  I know in a typical stereo setup, the speakers need a good amount of room between the rear of the speaker and the front wall in order to image well and generally sound good.  In a theater setup, it seems that the goal is absorb and nullify any reflected sound coming off the front wall and rely on the multiple discrete sources throughout the room to create the depth in the sound field.  So does this obviate the need to have this space between the back of the speaker and the front wall?  Is it different with different types of driver technologies -- compression horns of your Procellas vs. dome tweeters like the B&W's for example?  Assuming you had an absorber of infinite capacity and perfect efficiency, could you just slap the speakers flush with the front wall and have them sound good in a theater setup?  In the real world, absorbers are not infinitely capable and perfectly efficient, so I suspect that space between the back of the speaker and the front wall serves to 1) increase the time delay between the direct sound and the reflected sound and 2) to decrease the amplitude of the reflected signal that needs to be absorbed, thus helping the absorber (of whatever type) work better.

It's all a matter of compromises, isn't it?

To your first point - yes, you've captured my design goals exactly...a quality experience for the front row but tuned exclusively for the second row while still preserving space for a back bar or for some temporary chairs brought in and sat in the back when needed.

To your second point, many stereo speakers are not well-suited for home theater environments ... at all. Some are better than others, but from my understanding the major deficiency is that the high frequencies "die" rather precipitously before reaching a person's ear at standard theater distances which means that it is difficult if not impossible to achieve a quality full-range experience at your seating position. This is why purpose-built theater speakers are designed completely differently than standard speakers, complete with compression drivers, horns, multiple vertical tweeter arrays, directivity waveguides around the tweeter and midrange, no ports for low frequency extension, etc. The list of different technologies goes on and on. If you want to recreate the professional cinema experience in the home you have to begin with speakers optimized for cinema in the residential setting.

As for the baffle wall, the purpose is to improve sound quality and imaging. And as I understand it, there is an extra 3-6db of "free" output for the low frequencies when speakers are installed in a baffle wall. But there are some caveats...such as DON'T use speakers with a rear port or are otherwise not designed for a baffle wall installation and you will probably (i.e. likely) need to have a more professional equalization solution with professional calibration to hear the benefit of the baffle wall otherwise you could actually be doing yourself a huge disfavor. Procella has a fantastic white paper on baffle wall construction HERE, but generally speaking baffle walls require very rigid construction techniques and very high mass. So 2x6 framing with cross bracing between all the studs following by at least one layer of 3/4" MDF glued and screwed followed by a minimum two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between the layers. The cavity behind the baffle wall also has to be addressed (primarily with insulation) as to not create any unwanted resonance since it is essentially a large drum at this point. And the face of the baffle wall will typically have 1-2" of Linacoustic, Insulshield or similar material to absorb any frequencies reflecting off the back side of the screen, the frame or any other component of the screen wall in front of the baffle wall. So all of these boxes must be "ticked" before you'd want to move forward with a baffle wall.

I don't know how this ties in to your remarks above except to say that the two set ups, including the types of speakers, are radically different. If you skip back a couple dozen posts or so I gave an informal review of the Procella speaker system in KBlaw2010's theater (new professional pics just posted, fyi). I was very impressed with how nice just music sounded on the system, even in two-channel mode. As nice as a quality dedicated two-channel system in a purpose-built listening room? Of course not. But extremely good for a theater environment and very enjoyable.

Dennis - I know you follow this thread...not sure if you have anything else to offer on this regarding baffle walls.
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post #312 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 02:51 PM
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So because I could not float new joists between the old for a significant portion of the room I decided to do the best I could without this decoupling. I have built completely separate walls which will be decoupled using Kinetics Noise Control CWCA brackets found on page 4 of their pdf HERE. And instead of clips and channel for the ceiling I am going to try a relatively new product that has really good noise control specs called the Kinetics Noise Control WAVE hanger.

What made you decide on the WAVE hangers over the clips? Are going to be using green glue?

Thanks
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post #313 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 03:12 PM
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Thanks for the explanation. I thought that the application had more to do with the noise from above vs. the theater noise getting out but was not sure. I have a lot of learning to do on all aspects of the total sound isolation and build methods. Not to mention room treatments and acoustics, pure voodoo magic right there IMHO. One of the main reasons why I did not incorporate any thing like that in my build is one the cost, and two I was limited in what I could do due to my basement layout. Due to the layout, I was afraid if I spent the money to do anything like that I would be wasting money for other parts of my build. I will say one thing though. While I am thrilled with my theater and for me still gives me a grin from ear to ear each time I am down there, I truly underestimated what a difference a isolated and treated room makes regarding the whole experience.

You know me well, but just saying you are going to post some pictures will only hold the hounds off for so long. I'll be patiently waiting for you to release some new updated pics.

Regards,

RTROSE

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post #314 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 04:51 PM - Thread Starter
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What made you decide on the WAVE hangers over the clips? Are going to be using green glue?

Thanks

I had previously used the Kinteics Noise Control ICW Ceiling Hangers and was extremely happy with the result. They truly offer world class decoupling, but they are significantly more expensive than the clips. Granted, you don't have to use near as many ICW hangers as clips, but they are still a much pricier option that I was unwilling (i.e couldn't) spend this time around. A local soundproofing company was selling job leftovers a couple years ago so I looked at their performance and jumped on the deal. It will be interesting to see just how well they perform, but according to their lab tests this system performs better than clips and channel. Not by much, but every little bit counts when it comes to isolating the ceiling given that I cannot decouple it completely. That's why I am going through the exercise of double drywall and lots of Green Glue between the ceiling joists - to add mass to the upstairs floor assembly.

As of right now I am planning for a single layer of 7/16" OSB and a single layer of 5/8" Drywall with Green Glue for the walls and ceiling. The OSB is so I can literally attach my finish carpentry anywhere and still reach some structure. I might consider adding a second layer of 5/8" drywall and Green Glue, but I am just not sure yet. I really want to add the mass, so I might give up the convenience of secure attachment of any screw or nail anywhere and just do the two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue in between. 7/16" OSB is 1.4 pounds per square foot whereas 5/8" drywall is 2.31 pounds per square foot. Comparing the two assemblies at 3.71 pounds per square foot vs. 4.62 pounds per square foot, the second assembly has 24.5% more mass than the first. That's a big difference but I am not sure how meaningful that is in terms of noise containment? Is it 25% less??? Not likely, but surely some percentage less. I still have some thinking to do on this point.

But to answer your question simply - yes, I will be using Green Glue between all layers of sheet material wherever possible.
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post #315 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 04:52 PM - Thread Starter
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You know me well, but just saying you are going to post some pictures will only hold the hounds off for so long. I'll be patiently waiting for you to release some new updated pics.

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post #316 of 1099 Old 02-04-2013, 07:22 PM
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Where is the progress T-Mac....you are really slacking....lol. That took a bit to get back thru the thread. Looking good.
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post #317 of 1099 Old 02-05-2013, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Where is the progress T-Mac....you are really slacking....lol. That took a bit to get back thru the thread. Looking good.

PROGRESS UPDATE:

There's been no progress since Sunday.biggrin.gif
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post #318 of 1099 Old 02-05-2013, 07:14 PM
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HAHAHAHAHA. Progress update to say no update. Funny!

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post #319 of 1099 Old 02-15-2013, 09:25 AM
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I don't think Tom has Loganed anyone lately......... hint, hint!

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #320 of 1099 Old 02-15-2013, 11:23 AM
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Look, if I slowed him down anymore stuff would start coming OFF the walls.


But then again, in Dimension X, we don't know the relationship between forward and backward motion.

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post #321 of 1099 Old 02-15-2013, 11:31 AM
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LOL! biggrin.gif

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #322 of 1099 Old 02-15-2013, 12:54 PM
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We do know that in Dimension X forward is backward, backward is forward, left is right, right is left, zig is zag, zag is zig, right side up is upside down, upside down is right side up. So it is pretty easy to figure if stuff is coming off the walls that is actually forward progress. Right?

Just sayin'.

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post #323 of 1099 Old 02-15-2013, 03:07 PM
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Dang you and your logic! Next you'll be using the maths on us.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #324 of 1099 Old 02-15-2013, 03:25 PM
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So it is pretty easy to figure if stuff is coming off the walls that is actually forward progress. Right?
But isn't that forward progress when viewed from within dimension X? What does it look like to outsiders? Can you actually take pictures from within dimension X?
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post #325 of 1099 Old 02-15-2013, 06:45 PM
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Dang you and your logic! Next you'll be using the maths on us.

That would be aaustin actually! I leave all the maths to him. biggrin.gif

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But isn't that forward progress when viewed from within dimension X? What does it look like to outsiders? Can you actually take pictures from within dimension X?

Men, scholars, and truth seekers alike have pondered these very questions. The world may never know.

Regards,

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post #326 of 1099 Old 02-15-2013, 10:53 PM
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This post is for all of you Art Deco fans....

I was working on the design aesthetic again this evening, specifically the decorative metalwork and I came across a website for an insanely talented graphic artist from Mexico that loves the Art Deco style and absolutely nails it with his movie poster recreations. So he will take a Batman, Ironman or whatever other movie and recreate a movie poster for this modern movie in the old Art Deco style and his work is phenomenal in my opinion.

If you have a few minutes, spend some time on his website or to his gallery where his full artwork can be seen, appreciated and purchased.

One of my favorites is his Ironman poster found here:


More specifically, his entire "heroes" movie poster collection can be found HERE

Wow!! That poster is just awesome along with others on that site! The art deco style really blends well with the super hero look. I bookmarked that site for sure. Thanks for the great find!
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post #327 of 1099 Old 02-17-2013, 08:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't think Tom has Loganed anyone lately......... hint, hint!

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Look, if I slowed him down anymore stuff would start coming OFF the walls.


But then again, in Dimension X, we don't know the relationship between forward and backward motion.

I am not exactly sure what Loganed is....but I will just assume it is some sort of prestigious honor, like being knighted.
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post #328 of 1099 Old 02-17-2013, 08:50 PM
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I am not exactly sure what Loganed is....but I will just assume it is some sort of prestigious honor, like being knighted.

Um.........er..........ah...........yeah. Just keep thinking that and you're golden! cool.gif

Regards,

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post #329 of 1099 Old 02-17-2013, 09:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow!! That poster is just awesome along with others on that site! The art deco style really blends well with the super hero look. I bookmarked that site for sure. Thanks for the great find!

No problem. This is a bit of new information . . . I am actually in touch with the artist directly. We have spoken and he may take on a small (very small) design commission with my home theater. He's never worked in the home theater "medium" (as he puts it) before and really wants to do the project, even if it's just in his spare time. More to come on that later.

A few days after I made the post to his website and the Ironman poster I continued to have a nagging feeling that I had seen this before. Then it struck me . . . The Rocketeer movie poster from 1991....

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post #330 of 1099 Old 02-18-2013, 01:26 AM
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A few days after I made the post to his website and the Ironman poster I continued to have a nagging feeling that I had seen this before. Then it struck me . . . The Rocketeer movie poster from 1991....

You should have posted the question and saved yourself the agony, I knew that as soon as I saw it. wink.gif

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