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post #1 of 34 Old 12-10-2012, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi All,

after stalking the forums and asking a few members if i can "Borrow" some of there Ideas:D, i i have finally started my HT build,

Room and Equipment specs are;

Dimensions 13.8" x 25" x 10"

Paradigm Signature S6 for front LR
Paradigm Signature C5 for Center
Paradigm Signature ADP3 by 4 for SRL/R BSRL/R
Paradigm Signature Sub 2 for Bass
Anthem AVM50 3D For processor
Anthem P5 Amplifier for Fronts, Center and SRL/R
Emotiva XPA 2 for BSRL/R
Epson 6020UB Projector
Elite Projection Screen 138" diagonal ( 54" x 127" viewing area, AcousticPro Viewing Surface
Fusion Collection Lagoon-1011 recliners

The design of the room is evolving every day, but here is my attempt at a visio to represent what i have planned;






The main room is solid reinforced 6" concrete block filled with cement, its a room off my garage that i added on, as the visios show, 1" off the concrete walls i will be putting my 2x4 framing with IB-3 brackets and stuffed with R19, then 5/8 ply, two layers of 1/2" drywall with green glue in between layers, i am going with carpet on the floor, i hope this will provide good sound proofing,

My media rack "if you can even call it that" will be under the stage to the front, i got a design in my head, "Its if i can actually build it" we will see, but it will have doors for access and four Cooler Master MegaFlow 200mm fans for ventilation when the doors are closed,

Please let me know if the dimensions / seating distances etc looks good, also if the room has enough sound proofing, my master bedroom is about 30 feet away after you enter the house from the garage, i am hoping the sound wont escape into the attic area and affect the master room despite the distance away,

Bryan AKA Bpape designed my acoustical treatments for the walls, so it will be a mix of 2" OC703 in various layers on front and back walls and 2" cotton on the side walls from full floor to ceiling covers at certain areas to 5' high at other areas,

some before and after pics of the actual room;






(DOH! i thought i had a completed pic of the outside but seems that i don't mad.gif, i will upload when i get a shot in the morning)

So here is the crazy plan, i want to get the room finish in time for Christmas, or before new year, i know it may be wishful thinking especially since i don't have a Master builder like BIGmouthinDC, and its only me one doing all the work frown.gif, but i guess i will see how it goes, i took vacation as off Thursday 5th December 2012 throughout the rest of the month to have time to work on the room,

This is where i am at so far;













Measuring and building all the stud walls, then lifting them up, squaring and leveling up, securing them with IB-3 Clips and Concrete anchors, cutting and installing R19 and starting to add ply was not fun to say the least as my background is in IT and not construction, but i kept thinking of the little train that could throughout the entire process redface.gif.

I only have one more wall to screw ply onto plus the ceiling, then i can start installing the first layer of drywall + green glue, i am not puting R19 on the ceiling as i purchased spray foam for the ceiling/rafters

In the pics you will see that i only ran piping in-wall for the light switches, all other electrical/speaker wire feed conduits will be run via soffit and down into columns, i will be using my existing Homeseer installation for lighting automation etc from my mobile, i also bought a iPad wall bracket and will be putting an ipad in the room for a more permanent control interface, it will be flush mounted on the wall as you enter the room

As i mentioned the plan evolves daily, this is the current ceiling design i want to do, the 45" degree pieces in the pic will have my main lights instead of the bits in the center of the ceiling, the center will be left empty for a future star ceiling, so each wall will have a piece from the edge of the soffit going up to the ceiling in a 45 degree angle similar to the pic; i have some other adustball lights for the stage and under the sofit area going around the room.




That,s all for now, any input or advice will be much welcomed

Thanks guys.
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post #2 of 34 Old 12-10-2012, 10:54 PM
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How wide is your screen, and what ratio are you planning? It looks like you could move your seating closer to the screen, which would get your rear row off the wall, so to speak.

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post #3 of 34 Old 12-11-2012, 02:10 AM
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^^ Like he said!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhypolite View Post

Please let me know if the dimensions / seating distances etc looks good,
I presume the money seat is front row center. If so, I'd suggest:

1) Shift all the seating forward about 3'. That will give a proper screen image width and the L/R speakers will hit recommended 45-deg angle for movies.

2) Move the surround speakers forward so they flank the front row. Otherwise the sense of envelopment will suffer. If they are in the way of folks on the steps, can use inwalls. With proper backing boxes they will not leak too much outside the room.

3) Spread the rears wider and angle them to allow the mid/tweets to carom off the walls. If concerned about that altering the tone quality, can use direct radiators there. That would be my choice. Stick with the bipoles for the surrounds.

4) Getting the rear folks away from the back wall is a luxury not many of us can achieve, but your 25' room makes it a dream. This will dramatically improve the sound in the rear seats, both the bass and the surround effects by reducing hot spots.

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post #4 of 34 Old 12-11-2012, 03:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warrenP View Post

How wide is your screen, and what ratio are you planning? It looks like you could move your seating closer to the screen, which would get your rear row off the wall, so to speak.

Hey warrenP, the screen is a Elite "Lunette" CURVED Fixed Framed Projection Screen in the Cinemascope Format ( 2.35:1 Aspect Ratio ) 138" diagonal ( 54" x 127" viewing area ), i have a panamorph lens for the projector, let me know what you recommend based on this if i can still move thigns forward,

Thanks
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post #5 of 34 Old 12-11-2012, 03:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

^^ Like he said!
I presume the money seat is front row center. If so, I'd suggest:
1) Shift all the seating forward about 3'. That will give a proper screen image width and the L/R speakers will hit recommended 45-deg angle for movies.
2) Move the surround speakers forward so they flank the front row. Otherwise the sense of envelopment will suffer. If they are in the way of folks on the steps, can use inwalls. With proper backing boxes they will not leak too much outside the room.
3) Spread the rears wider and angle them to allow the mid/tweets to carom off the walls. If concerned about that altering the tone quality, can use direct radiators there. That would be my choice. Stick with the bipoles for the surrounds.
4) Getting the rear folks away from the back wall is a luxury not many of us can achieve, but your 25' room makes it a dream. This will dramatically improve the sound in the rear seats, both the bass and the surround effects by reducing hot spots.

Thanks for the input Roger,

Thanks correct on the Money seat, if i can bring things forward that would be good, i have posted my screen / ratio above, let me know if i can afford to move up,

On the speakers, they are on-wall Adaptive dipole speakers and not front radiating, so the mid/tweeters are design to carom off the walls cause they are on the sides


The book that came with the speakers said for two rows of seats, place the SRL/R between the first and second row, and place the BSRL/R right outside the chair area of the last row about 6' to 7' off the floor for optimal coverage of the surround sound field, did some reading and that's how most people said to position these dipole speakers, but exactly how you suggested works perfect for forward radiating speakers

Thanks

Mike
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post #6 of 34 Old 12-11-2012, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhypolite View Post

i have posted my screen / ratio above, let me know if i can afford to move up
Yes. At 11' you will have a 50-deg viewing angle. This is optimal for a 2.35 CIH screen.
Quote:
The book that came with the speakers said for two rows of seats, place the SRL/R between the first and second row
I followed the link from Signature ADP3 to the owner's manual. The diagram for 7.1 is as below.



The surrounds need to be adjacent to the front row. This is equally importat for dipoles (otherwise you are not sitting in the null). You might think this is not optimal when 2 rows of seats are involved, but not to worry. The rear folks will not feel any less well treated at all. Better to make sure the MLP gets a proper presentation.

As an aside, since I brought Dolby into the 7.1 world, I have a certain insight into these matters. wink.gif I'm not just speaking from what I have read around here.
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post #7 of 34 Old 12-11-2012, 05:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

Yes. At 11' you will have a 50-deg viewing angle. This is optimal for a 2.35 CIH screen.
I followed the link from Signature ADP3 to the owner's manual. The diagram for 7.1 is as below.

The surrounds need to be adjacent to the front row. This is equally importat for dipoles (otherwise you are not sitting in the null). You might think this is not optimal when 2 rows of seats are involved, but not to worry. The rear folks will not feel any less well treated at all. Better to make sure the MLP gets a proper presentation.
As an aside, since I brought Dolby into the 7.1 world, I have a certain insight into these matters. wink.gif I'm not just speaking from what I have read around here.

Thanks Roger, i will adjust the screen distance and SRL/R to bring them adjacent to the front row and leave the SRBL/R as is,

On the seating, do i also bring the back row up 3 feet as well? or leave some more space between the front and back and maybe only bring it up 2' ?

Thanks

Mike
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post #8 of 34 Old 12-11-2012, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi all i need some advice on the below,

I have completed putting up the ply (Will get some pics tomorrow), the plan now is to put acoustical sealant on the corners/joints etc, then i will apply the first layer of drywall with green glue,

Question 1, do i have to tape and mud this first layer of drywall, or can i simply use the same acoustical sealant on the corners/joints and apply the second layer of drywall,

Question 2, for the second layer after it is up, it will be covered with fabric frames on the walls, do i need to mud the walls or simply use the acoustical sealant here again?

The less sanding/Cleanup i have to do the better, it will be great to only have to finish the ceiling as that's the only exposed part as the star ceiling will go in at a later date

Thanks
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post #9 of 34 Old 12-11-2012, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhypolite View Post

On the seating, do i also bring the back row up 3 feet as well? or leave some more space between the front and back and maybe only bring it up 2' ?
Totally your choice. Now that you have some breathing room, it would be nice to add another foot of clearance between the rows.
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post #10 of 34 Old 12-12-2012, 05:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhypolite View Post

Paradigm Signature Sub 2 for Bass
Are you willing to consider replacing the Sub2 with a pair of Sub15 units? Placed at the midpoints of the side walls, two sub will give you much greater seat-to-seat consistency in the low frequencies than a single sub ever could, which will make it much easier for the room correction system in your pre-pro to fix problems at multiple seats (greater cosistency means that it will detect similar problems in multiple seats).

Sanjay
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post #11 of 34 Old 12-12-2012, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Sdurani,

No that sub two was to expensive and heavy to think about replacing smile.gif,

But my long term plan for the new year is to obtain a second Sub 2 and do something similar to what you suggested, or place the second sub to the back of the room

Thanks

Mike
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post #12 of 34 Old 12-12-2012, 06:53 PM
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There is plenty of room to park the first sub under the center speaker, then add the future one at the middle of the rear wall. That will be a classic Welti-approved configuration. So just make sure there is an AC outlet and a signal run in place.
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post #13 of 34 Old 12-13-2012, 03:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

There is plenty of room to park the first sub under the center speaker, then add the future one at the middle of the rear wall. That will be a classic Welti-approved configuration. So just make sure there is an AC outlet and a signal run in place.

Thanks Roger,

Is the location under the center speaker a more initial ideal position for that sub? and then place the second one when ever i get it to the back wall at the center?

i will be running a conduit to one of the columns tot he back so i can pull a sub cable in when i get a second sub along with AC power

Thanks

Mike
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post #14 of 34 Old 12-13-2012, 09:59 AM
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^^ It's as good as any perimeter location. If you want to try moving elsewhere across the front stage, such as where you originally showed, no need to alter the wiring. But when you add the 2nd sub, you'll be wanting them at opposite mid-walls.
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post #15 of 34 Old 12-13-2012, 06:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger Dressler View Post

^^ It's as good as any perimeter location. If you want to try moving elsewhere across the front stage, such as where you originally showed, no need to alter the wiring. But when you add the 2nd sub, you'll be wanting them at opposite mid-walls.

Ok sounds good, i will wire accordingly to place under the center

Thanks
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post #16 of 34 Old 12-18-2012, 12:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, the task of installing the 3/8 ply, and double 1/2 drywall with green glue is complete, and what a daunting task it was for one person! redface.gif

I also got the door hung, so its own to building the Stage with media shelf and the stage smile.gif

I will only be mudding/taping the exposed part of the ceiling and priming for paint as the walls will be covered in fabric/soundproofing materials

Stay tuned,




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post #17 of 34 Old 02-10-2013, 06:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Guys, it has been some time, Christmas slowed down the work on the project big time, then back to work in January finished the K.O.

I have been working on Saturdays and for a few ours in the evenings after work, i am finally seeing just how much work building a HT is for one person, things that you think will take 2 hours ends up taking two days!

Some progress pics

Riser:

Here is the start of the stage, i put roofing felt down first, i used 2x13 for the stage, the picture is a bit fuzzy, but before i started construction, i glued some packing bubble wrap to the wall, that is what the 2x12s against the wall is resting on


Here is conduits i ran, the gray 1 1/2" conduit is for future cables in case i am going to run wires for butt kickers or HDMI for laptops/ipads i am have whiles seated, the box should end up under the row of seats on the riser, one gray and blue pipe goes to the front of the riser. the blue smurf tubing is for power for the seats, i positioned the pipes on the wall so they will be hidden by a column


view of where the pipes exit the front of the riser, shoud be hidden by the front row seats, i put them close to the right side of the row so i can get tot hem easily


view of where the opening/swing for the door is


this is how i did the base for the steps, built out of 2x4, naield with 3" nails and glue, then bolted to the ground with 4 tapcons


i filled the riser with R19 and screwed a layer of 5/8s ply to it


I then appiled roofing felt to the first layer, then another layre of 5/8s ply with green glue, hopefully i will have no squeaks with this combination


I left a 1 inch lip, i will route this later at a 45 degree angle

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post #18 of 34 Old 02-10-2013, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Some progress on Stage, not to sure what the hell happened to all the pics i took when i was doing the stage frown.gif, all i found was 3 of them,

Here is the stage half way completed, it shares a similar design as far as framing/felt goes with the riser, but on the stage i used 2x10 instead of 2x12, i ran two 2" pipes for all A/V cables and one 1 1/2" for power, Two 20 amp runs will be pulled through them to power the equipment, i then lined the inside with 5mm plastic and filled with sand, screwed on one layer of 5/8s, then more roofing felt, then another layer of 5/8s with green glue,

As i mentioned somewhere, the equipment will sit in the stage, i am still to this day thinking up/modifying the design of where the equipment will sit, i think i came up with a solid plan with sufficient cooling which hides the equipment quite nicely at the same time, as i proceed i will upload pictures,


Here is the bracing i started to construct for the top of of the stage where the equipment is housed, the base of this section does not have any sand, but shares a similar design as the steps with 2x4 framing and bolted down to the floor with tapcons, i used two pieces of 1/2 inch ply with wood blue in between them screwed to the framing, i was trying to keep the height of the base as short as possible yet with a strong base that would not flex under the weight of the equipment


for the spacing of the braces and dept of the base, i measured my biggest piece of A/V equipment, the Anthem P5 with balanced cables connected to the back, and i made the dept about 3 inches longer and the width about 2 inch wider, which is way bigger than the spacing in my existing media rack, so hopefully wont have problems with upgraded equipment fitting in there


I have lost all the other pics i had of the stage mad.gif, i will retake some so you guys can check out the progress
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post #19 of 34 Old 02-10-2013, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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So with the riser basically finished (Just some routing left) and the stage also near completion (Just the A/V equipment porting that is still involving/under construction), i decided to start on the ceiling,


Started by ripping up some 2x10s into 2x2 strips, marked out the ceiling for the width of the soffit and screwed the 2x2 strips into he ceiling joist, i then ripped out 5/8s MDF and screwed it into the 2x2 right around. I wanted a 10" width (Soffit face to side wall), but my side wall treatment calls for 2" material, so i made the width 12 inches to even it out


As its only me, building the ladder type bracing to screw on to the MDF was not to practical, so i decided to do some individual 2x4 T shape bracing, and spaced them 15" apart, so there is a lot of them around the perimeter of the room. To make the T brace i nailed the 2x4 together using 3" nails with wood glue in between, using a laser level i screwed the T brace into the MDF using 2 to 3 screws, and then the T brace into the wall using four 3 & 3/4" inch high strength screws, this worked out pretty good as there were some times as the concrete walls were not even, a brace ended up maybe an extra 1/8 or so in length, so i just cut the braces to suite the position


Section around the AC unit at the rear of the room, because the rare of the room called for 6 inches of treatment i made the rare soffit width 16" to even that out


As part of my design for the AC cavity area, I made a boxing out of MDF to insert in the AC cavity to hide the concrete blocks, i filled the sides of this boxing with spray foam to seal it for starters, the area to the top of the AC will be for some fresh are intakes to insure the room gets fresh air when its loaded up with people



Here is the AC cavity a bit further along in the construction, i completed the AC cavity boxing and some framing around it, i cut two 7 inch holes in the ceiling and connected the ducts for my fresh air runs, this duct will be connected to two Panasonic high flow blowers which sucks fresh air from outside and sends it into the room, i placed the intakes there because the AC sucks air from on top, so the idea is it will suck up the fresh air as it enters and blow it around the room. i will be putting molding on edges and top etc to pretty this up later down and painting, my sound treat


example of ceiling thickness smile.gif, i never thought green glue will work like an actual glue and stick stuff together, but i could not easily pull the layers of Sheetrock and ply apart so it does have some sticking power, once all wiring/cunduit in the ceiling is done, spray form will go on-top everything,


I will try to take some updated pics later today of where i am currently at in the build
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post #20 of 34 Old 02-10-2013, 01:43 PM
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It's coming along nicely. I'm interested to see how the equipment ends up looking at the front of the room. I'm still figuring out where mine will go.
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post #21 of 34 Old 02-12-2013, 05:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok so i got some more work done, i did a bit of wiring, conduit runs and started on the lights

I got one 20 amp breaker for all lighting, i wanted a set of lights that i can keep on for long periods of time without breaking the bank and producing to much heat, and i wanted dimmable lighting to set a low light level when i am watching movies, so i decided to go with fluorescent lights for the main lighting, and then regular bulbs for the dimmable ones,

I built some light boxes for the fluorescent, 6 of them and placed them along the long sides of the room, at first it i thought this is gonna provide real **** lighting, but it brightens up the room very well, and it gave me the ceiling design/look i was after, the dimmable lights will go on the under side of the soffit,





I also got some wiring done and filled the soffit with R19, i ran a blue pipe for each speaker, and future rear sub woofer, one gray pipe goes to the riser, and the other eon goes up into the ceiling for projector wires and network wire from the main house, the two blue pipes to the right is for power, one carries two 20 amp feeds, and the other is for the projector feed from the line conditioners that will be in the stage equipment area



I was looking at the soffit area over the stage, and decided to add some additional bracing as i was afraid it might start sagging or worst when the sub woofer starts playing, so i built some brackets and screwed then into the joist then into the 2x4s



i will be placing molding various places to spice everything up a notch, i bought some cool router bits from MLCS to route out my won molding etc, like the stage, the molding layout is constantly evolving, i am playing around with some designs and where exactly to place molding, will see how it turns out when i settle on something, here are the design the bit gives me, planning the bigger profile for base/crown and the smaller one for mid molding strips, on soffit,
around lights, on columns etc,

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post #22 of 34 Old 03-10-2013, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi all, got some more work on the stage done, i think i have settled on a design/plan for the stage/media rack combo,

After building the space for the media equipment, i applied MDF to hide all the ruff looking ply edges and so on, as i said somewhere else in the thread, i measured the size of my biggest amp, and added an inch or 2 onto that to get the spacing




So for cooling, i will have five 200mm fans, i will put molding only on the vertical pieces separating the bays, then i will build little removable frames wrapped in black GOM, with the fan in the center of the frame, each bay will have its own frame/cover, Velcro will hold the frame in place, i will have enough cord so that when i remove a bay cover, i don't need to disconnect the fan, if i do need to disconnect, the fans will be able to disconnect as i will have the fan connector right behind the vertical pieces.


With the fans to the front sucking air in, i left a space to the back so the hot air can exit (i will be trimming the screws sticking out the top with my dremil).


So that my design concerning the stage area, best one i could have come up with for media equipment in my stage, will see how it works out, but i think it will work great, and the look of the finish product should be good as well as everything will still be hidden.

The fans will be on a speed controller so i can dial them down to the minimum speed required for sufficient cooling and the least amount of noise, the Cooler Master fans i got are already very quiet, i can barely hear them at max blast

Will post more shots as i make progress
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post #23 of 34 Old 03-10-2013, 07:55 PM - Thread Starter
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I also got lots of work done on my columns,

The original plan called for 8 columns, two to the back, and three along the right and left sides,

I sized each column to suit the thickness of acoustical treatment that will be applied to the wall so that in the end all columns will appear to be 10 inches deep, the columns are 18" wide.

I measured the room for GOM fabric panels/treatment and purchased based on having three 18" wide columns with a 4'11" space between each, but the two columns closest to the stage area, if i had made them 10" deep, they would have blocked the projector screen, so i turned them into dummy columns that are 2" deep without any power runs/fiberglass in them, just to act as spacers for my acoustical treatment plan, i figured it will work better that way and still keep the look i am after rather than removing them completely and possibly end up with shortages on the acoustical treatment side and a wierd spacing look


All other column i ran conduits for speakers and power and stuffed with R19



The column closest to the door, i ran an extra conduit so i can pull a sub cable if i decide to put a sub to the rare of the room centered between the two rare columns in the future


I also routed out some molding and started to do some test fits, its starting to look very nice,


I have a plan in progress to pretty up the columns with some more molding and edging and so on, i sketched out several designs and i am still trying to decided on which one to go with, will see which one gets picked and how it turns out,

Stay tuned for more
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post #24 of 34 Old 03-11-2013, 06:58 AM
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The progress looks great. The room is shaping up nicely.
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post #25 of 34 Old 06-14-2013, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi All, well i have made plenty progress since the last post, i am about 90% finished i would say, i got all construction complete except for fabric panels, i got all painting done, and carpet. sorry guys but i tend to get carried away working and only remember to take pictures and post after the fact.


I finally settled on and completed my column design, and my color them/style along with it. First i came up with a sort of layered column style for all columns with edge molding


With all columns finished along with base/crown/center modling and so on, i primed everyhting white


And taped of to start painting, colors are Red, Black, and Brown only for molding


Here is the pattern i decided on for the columns, i got 6 columns of the same style, and two plain ones closes to the screen, only 4" think to avoid blocking the screen/projector beam


Here are some shots of the ceiling (Sorry but got a crappy camera that messed up with the lights on so i took these shots with the lights off), i have 6 light boxes with recessed cans for main lighting "Non-dimmable", the two you see up front, two int he center, and two to the back, under the soffit area i have holes for the eye ball type recessed light cans, these will be dimmable and shining on the panels



Here are some shots of some of the other columns, riser, and the carpet, i went with a charcoal colored carpet, i think it matched pretty well, when i installed the base molding, i left a 1/2" space which worked perfect, the carpet has a 1/2 thick pad underneath it, i really liked how it looked against the brown base molding with the carpet tucked under the molding. The riser is 12", plus the two sheets of 5/8s on top so i got two steps on on either side, to the front of it, and one leading down to the door. you can also see the split AC unit with two fresh air feeds to the top. The AC is actually recessed because i bolted it onto the wall before i built the double drywall/2x4 frames 1" away from the wall, then i boxed it in to hide the spaces etc, so it does not stick out at all, came out pretty descent.




Now for the stage, as i mentioned in previous posts, my equipment is going in the stage to the front, so i came up with a nifty design, i was skeptical at first, but i think it came out pretty well, far better that i expected actually, it does not jump out at you or draws attention to its self like a big ugly eye sore, it blends in nice with the carpeted area on top. black fabric panels will cover the equipment bays to hide the equipment, these panels will have fans in them to suck cool air into the compartment and expel the hot air via an opening to the back of each bay




A shot of that 4" think column i mentioned and a side shot of the riser



Stay tuned for more updates

Mike
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post #26 of 34 Old 06-15-2013, 07:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Got a little work done today,

I installed a door threshold, measured and cut the door to size and got it all mounted




I then got to work on the fabric frames for the side walls, I am using 2" cotton insulation on the side walls, i got a bunch of 5/8s sheets of ply left over so i will be using it to build the frames, i did a mock up with three pieces stuck together and placed it alongside a piece of cotton insulation, it was an exact fit, the three pieces of 5/8s ply was just 1/16 shy of 2" and so was to cotton insulation so it worked out well.

I did a right angle jib to help assembly, here is an assembled frame.


The panels will have a 45 degree edge to them, so i used a similar setup that i saw BIGmouthinDC do in a thread, i clamped two pieces of 5/8s strips onto the rip saw and used it to cut the angles.i used the bar ont he ripsaw to get the correct spacing for the cut i wanted and to keep the strips straight as well



Here is a frame with the angles cut, the rip saw setup worked pretty well.



A test fit on the wall



Will be working on more frames tomorrow and see how far i get with the.

Stay tuned.
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post #27 of 34 Old 06-16-2013, 05:07 AM
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you and I have almost identical measurements for our theaters but very different approaches - very curious to see how your turns out.

I didn't catch it from your drawings - how high are your ceilings?

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post #28 of 34 Old 06-16-2013, 06:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey JRock3x8,

I got a 10' ceiling, after the 5/8s, after the 5/8s +double drywall + green glue, it stood at around 9' 10" or so

It actually posed a little problem at first cause my projector pole was only 3" long, the projector would have ended up way to high and out of range of the vertical shift to align to top of screen, so i got this 18" pole http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010BBPD4/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to solve that problem
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post #29 of 34 Old 07-29-2013, 06:59 AM - Thread Starter
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More updates on my progress, which has been long and slow, and again sorry for the crap quality pictures, i will try to get a better camera later

So i finished the framing for the stage,


I pained the frame back, then i started to attach the 2" panels wraped in black GOM



The panels all have the 45 degree edges except for the end that meets the wall

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post #30 of 34 Old 07-29-2013, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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So after i got the stage screen wall frame and panels complete, i started ont he rest.

All panels are approximately 2" thick/deep made from a three layers of 5/8s ply cut into 1 1/2" wide strips. i also painted these black


According to my acoustical plan, i stuffed the required panels with 2" cotton bat insulation


Then i started to attach them to the walls using liquid nail, and where necessary a finishing nail through the molding and into the pannel to hold firmly against the wall








This area where the light switches will be, the face of the panel is solid about 11" or so up from the bottom of the panel to have a hard surface for installing the switches etc


The panels to the back were actually 6" think/deep to fit the 6 inchs of 703 required
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