Mr slim vs other mini split? - AVS Forum

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Dedicated Theater Design & Construction

amb1s1's Avatar amb1s1
04:01 PM Liked: 10
post #1 of 9
12-27-2012 | Posts: 274
Joined: Aug 2003
When people talk about mini split you guys always talk about mr slim. What about other brands? What about the brand that Home Depot sells? Also if I want to buy a mr slim where is the place to go to buy? Thanks
petew's Avatar petew
09:56 AM Liked: 47
post #2 of 9
12-28-2012 | Posts: 2,062
Joined: Oct 2000
Fujitsu is another brand. They are not available online though.

LG is a big one too.
Mr.Tim's Avatar Mr.Tim
10:11 AM Liked: 62
post #3 of 9
12-28-2012 | Posts: 2,191
Joined: Jul 2004
I would look at the specifications and see how much noise they produce. IIRC Mr.Slim gives you dB on low/med/hi.

Warranty and efficiency may be another factor, if they matter to you.

scorpio516's Avatar scorpio516
01:01 PM Liked: 12
post #4 of 9
12-28-2012 | Posts: 25
Joined: Sep 2009
All the major companies make them: Trane, Mitsu (Mr. Slim), Carrier, Lennox.

HD carrier Ramsond. I've never heard of them.

Mitsubishi wants you to go through a HVAC contractor to get on, and have it installed. They might not warranty it if one of their preferred contractors doesn't install it, but I'm not sure, I've never dealt with Mistu
amb1s1's Avatar amb1s1
04:29 PM Liked: 10
post #5 of 9
12-28-2012 | Posts: 274
Joined: Aug 2003
Which of the brand named here is the easy DIY? I'm planning to do it my self and I probably need somebody just to plug the hose.
Mr.Tim's Avatar Mr.Tim
04:36 PM Liked: 62
post #6 of 9
12-28-2012 | Posts: 2,191
Joined: Jul 2004
None of those will be 100% DIY. The linesets needs to be evacuated prior to connection.

Other than that, they're all the same. Wire the electric, pipe the condensate drain and mount the units.

There is one minisplit system with a weird name.. where the linesets are pre-charged and have a snap connection. I have my doubts as to longevity and question whether any HVAC tech would service them (or maybe they will, but it won't be cheap).

amb1s1's Avatar amb1s1
05:15 PM Liked: 10
post #7 of 9
12-28-2012 | Posts: 274
Joined: Aug 2003
My brother own a mechanic shop and he does air conditioner on care, I'm going to ask him if he knows how to do that. I forgot about my brother.
amb1s1's Avatar amb1s1
08:24 PM Liked: 10
post #8 of 9
12-28-2012 | Posts: 274
Joined: Aug 2003
What about those portable AC?
rabident's Avatar rabident
06:23 PM Liked: 24
post #9 of 9
12-29-2012 | Posts: 2,036
Joined: Mar 2000
They're loud and generally inefficient. There are 3 main types.

1) circulate air within the room. Only good for spot cooling something hot in the room. The hot air will be hotter than the cold air cold so it's no good for cooling the room itself.
2) Hot air exhaust. A portion of the air in the room is cooled and released back into the room. Another portion is used to cool the the condenser and that hot air is vented out of the room. It creates negative pressure within the room and replacement air will come through the cracks in doors & windows. It's inefficient and you may find unit pumping out a decent volume of cool air but the room itself staying surprisingly warm (due to the surrounding external air being pulled back into the room).
3) Closed circuit. I don't know the technical term for it, but it pulls air for cooling the condenser from an external location and then exhausts the air back out as well. It's essentially the same as a normal forced air A/C system except the noisy compressor and fans are all co-located in the room with you.

^both vented types generally have short restrictions on vent types, like 6' to 12' max length (depending on model, with longer lengths being more expensive)

Mits is the gold standard for mini-splits, that's why it is often recommended. They tend to innovate more. They were the first to incorporate variable speed in both the air handler (indoor unit) and the compressor (outdoor unit). They're also the quietest at ~22dB or 24dB. They have a lot of different model types. You can run 3 units off one compressor, or have the indoor unit on the ceiling or in the ceiling hidden from view & reduce noise. For new construction it is quite a bit more expensive than conventional forced air. For retrofit, I can see where it would be worthwhile.

Other options: You might want to look at tapping off an existing line & adding another return over your main heat source. That cost me $700 on my last house. It wasn't perfect, but it was good enough. You should be able to add a 2nd zone to your existing unit for less than a mini-split, but it might not be feasible depending on existing duct work and access to it. A dedicated unit is another option. The hardware does cost more and needs special electric, but It has the same basic lineset requirement as a minisplit and enough capacity for an entire floor (something to consider if you are finishing the basement, for example, with the HT as one of the rooms).

Also, depending how air tight the room is, how many people to have in the room at once, and for how long... you might want to consider bringing in some fresh air.
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