Currently my theater room has really good seperation from the bedrooms, but still when at it's loudest, low frequencies can still be heard in the bedrooms. And it's so indistinct you can't even make out gunshots. For this and other reasons, I'm planning to build another wall on top of the wall in the theater room(which by itself might be enough), and insulate it with soundproofing material found here. http://www.supersoundproofingsales.com/SSP-Cotton-Fiber-Insulation-35-thick-R-13-24/productinfo/09-99913-24/
That should do the trick right?
Not thinking so.
The insulation you referenced works as well as the cheapest fiberglass at Home Depot, but you choose which you prefer.
Can you remove the original drywall on the walls currently before building the new wall frames?
Not really, the wall bows out at the base of one of the interior walls, because it's a converted garage(slab), and the house is pier and beam, and thats how it settled. Thats one motivation for building over it, is to hide the buldge. So the stuff I referenced is basically snake oil? Or just no good with blocking low frequencies? I mean obviously if you say there's no point then I'll go with the cheap Pink Panther insulation from the Depot. Unless there's something else i can put in the wall that works. Perhaps a double layer of drywall with green glue in between?
Originally Posted by plissken99
So the stuff I referenced is basically snake oil?
Its not that it's snake oil, it does work well, it's just that pink fluffy works really well too for a much slimmer price. In case its worth noting, grab the correct thickness pink fluffy. Stuffing it with thicker insulation than the studs will not give you better results.
Originally Posted by plissken99
Perhaps a double layer of drywall with green glue in between?
This would certainly give some extra transmission loss. But whether it is necessary or useful depends on the rest of construction as well. Everything needs to be sealed, and knowing the current STC rating of your current walls, doors, etc is helpful. An STC 50 wall with an STC 40 door only gives you an STC 40 total. Your transmission is only as good as the weakest link. So a double layer of drywall and green glue would only be helpful if everything else is in check (HVAC, doors/windows, etc)
Ah gotchya about the insulation. The door will be solid core, with V-seals on the edges, any clue what the rating would be? Also a guy I've been talking to recommends ISOMAX isolation clips. More effort than it's worth?
If you're doing the door, you'll want more than v-seals.
If you're starting with the proper mass (double drywall min) and damp that mass, then the uber-expensive clips make little sense. Just make sure to use 25 ga. channel and follow the correct clip installation pattern.
Ah not much info on doors beyond solid core and v seals, what else do you recommend? And yeah I was thinking either clips or the green glue, not both.
Some info on doors
Regarding the various elements of soundproofing:
- Clips and channel decouple
- Drywall provides mass
- Insulation provides absorption
- Damping compounds provides damping
Each of these provides a different function.
Great info on the door, hopefully I can find a place to help with solution 2(interior door with exterior jamb), that would be ideal. So on the soundproofing, it's simple, the biggest enemy is low frequencies which can be heard in the bedrooms. Which of the above methods will do the best to combat that?
Insulation would do the least. The other three directly affect LF isolation. If you did all of these things, you'd still have LF bleed at some frequency. So you're sure to have more LF bleed the more you start leaving items off the list.
Ah ok, well with insulation, 5/8 dry wall, green glue and another layer of 5/8 drywall on top of that, thats 3 out of 4, should do nicely I would think.