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post #91 of 200 Old 03-14-2013, 07:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally finished installing all the subfloor. Was a lot of work, and only marginally cheaper than DriCore, but I think it's going to be outstanding. Monday I'll start insulating the rim joists and putting drywall between the joists above the HT. Tuesday the plumbers start relocating drains, and then I can go to work on framing.
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post #92 of 200 Old 03-14-2013, 07:27 PM
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Now, now. You've been on the forum long enough to know better. Pics or it didn't happen smile.gif

Big milestones like this help to keep the motivation up! Keep the progress updates coming.

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #93 of 200 Old 03-16-2013, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd post pics but I'm stuck for a bit in South Dakota.
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post #94 of 200 Old 03-18-2013, 09:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pics of the latest.

First the almost completed stairs:

AppleMark

Then the bath ready for breaking up the concrete for the shower rough in:

AppleMark

Subfloor is done:

AppleMark



And now my project for the day; sealing the rim joists with spray foam:

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post #95 of 200 Old 03-18-2013, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Got my permit, but ran into an inspector who was a bit of a tool. Off of the craft room I was going to have an unfinished storage room (where my main panel is). He asked me what the room was (on my building plan) and I said a storage closet. Never should have said closet. He said that unless I put an egress window in that side, I can't have the closet because it'd be like a bedroom. I explained and explained, but he wasn't going to budge. I'll just put up a wall after I get my final inspection. Just dumb though. I should have known better.
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post #96 of 200 Old 03-18-2013, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Sprayed the rim joists. I'll probably put back the old insulation, it can't hurt.



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post #97 of 200 Old 03-19-2013, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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More lumber deliveries and my bathroom rough ins are completed.


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post #98 of 200 Old 03-20-2013, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Someone mentioned an alternative to Liquid Nails; I'm attaching a wall to a steel I-Beam and don't have a powder (22) actuated nailer.
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post #99 of 200 Old 03-20-2013, 06:08 AM
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PL Premium would be an alternative. I would use some sort of fastener. A Tek screw will go through just about any steal beam.

Tim
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post #100 of 200 Old 03-20-2013, 06:08 AM
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LaPage PL300 mentions steel and wood bonding. With the "make sure all surfaces are clean and free of dirt, oil, and grease." disclaimer.
Clamped in place, until fully cured.

There's also a product called Bullseal. Glues anything to anything.
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post #101 of 200 Old 03-21-2013, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Tried out the Tek screws, they took ages to screw in. I might combine a 22 nailer with PL300. It took a good five minutes to drill in one Tek screw, I think I'd go insane if I had to do an entire wall.

Got a decent amount finished today. Finished the subfloor in my bath, put some backing in between the joists where needed, and cut up 12 sheets of wallboard to put between the floor joists as a deadener. I don't think I like drywall that much...

Obligatory pics:

The drywall stack.



Backing for the walls.




Bath subfloor:

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post #102 of 200 Old 03-22-2013, 03:49 AM
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Sorry to hear you had trouble with the tek screws. I've used many of them in steel when I did commercial work. The only two pieces of advice i have are 1) use quality tek screws (in bulk I used Hilti.. for a handful I usually got them from the local steel fabricator) and 2) screw near the edges of the flange, where they are thinner. Oh, and using a cordless drill to screw them in is usually futile.

.22 nailer + PL should be fine. I recommend the PL premium.

Tim
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post #103 of 200 Old 03-22-2013, 05:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Tim. My corded driver died last week so I'm left with just a Dewalt cordless that didn't have the oomph to drive the Tek.
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post #104 of 200 Old 03-24-2013, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Should I use acoustic sealant when I'm putting up drywall and GG between my ceiling joists?
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post #105 of 200 Old 03-25-2013, 07:12 PM - Thread Starter
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More work completed. I finished putting up the rest of my foam insulation and the fireblocking for the other rooms in the basement. Also started putting up the first layer of drywall and green glue between the joists in the HT. I should be done with that by the end of the week, then I can start on framing.









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post #106 of 200 Old 03-25-2013, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Also, I have a supply duct running through the center of the home theater "roof" supplying the room above. I can hear sound through this right now and I'm concerned that even with all of my other sound isolation/proofing stuff, this still may be an issue. Should I have this duct replaced with a flex supply?

And I asked earlier if I should use some acoustic sealant around the drywall between my joists. Is that necessary?
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post #107 of 200 Old 03-27-2013, 09:23 AM
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I'm following. I think if you decouple the ceiling with clips and then add mass below you'll be fine. However if you are add mass above and below but not decoupling then the vibrations are going to transfer sound outside the room.
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post #108 of 200 Old 03-29-2013, 11:44 AM - Thread Starter
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A funeral is delaying any work this week but I think I'm going to replace that rigid duct with flex duct. The gains might be marginal, but it's easier to do now than live with the news after drywall is up.
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post #109 of 200 Old 03-29-2013, 01:42 PM
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Hey greedo. Regarding putting acoustic caulk into the gaps between your joists and the DW. Advice I receved here on the forum for the same issue was not to bother.
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post #110 of 200 Old 03-30-2013, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damage Inc View Post

Hey greedo. Regarding putting acoustic caulk into the gaps between your joists and the DW. Advice I receved here on the forum for the same issue was not to bother.

That's the word I got from John at the Soundproofing Company.
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post #111 of 200 Old 03-30-2013, 09:18 PM
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Cool because I didn't caulk mine either. wink.gif
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post #112 of 200 Old 04-05-2013, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Remaining questions as I start framing:

1. Should I build backer boxes for my inwall-surrounds?

2. Should I replace this rigid duct that supplies the room above, with a flex duct?

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post #113 of 200 Old 04-05-2013, 11:50 AM
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1. Yes

2. No. That duct will be outside of the double drywall and Green Glue aquarium so I wouldn't worry about it. I didn't do anything to the duct that supplies the room above my theater and it hasn't been a problem.

The Austin Home Theater:
A DIY high school project (now complete and being enjoyed everyday)

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post #114 of 200 Old 04-05-2013, 12:02 PM
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Austin -

Are you saying the duct in your room doens't transmit any noise in ether direction?

I replaced the metal ducts crossing my room ceiling with insulated flex and added two new supplies using the insulated flex. The family room ducts are directly above the theater and virtually NO sound passes through to the room upstairs. You have to get down and put your ear right to it to hear anything. Now, I don't remember the height of greedo's ceiling, but mine is barely 7' at that point, so I went ahead and changed them out. Possibly with an 8' or 9' ceiling you wouldn't have to.

I would recommend it anyway, because you can't go back redo it, easily anyway.

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post #115 of 200 Old 04-05-2013, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Tom and Austin...

For sanity's sake, I'll probably replace the ductwork; otherwise I'll kill myself with self-doubt.

For backer boxes (both for lights and speakers, is plywood okay instead of OSB? I have a lot left over, and can't think of a reason that it wouldn't be suitable. I'd be building plywood, then lining them with cementboard, correct?
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post #116 of 200 Old 04-05-2013, 12:27 PM
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Keep in mind that flex duct offers more resistance to air flow compared to rigid duct. You should probably upsize to compensate. Although, depending on how comfortable the room up there is, it may not be an issue. What size is the rigid?

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

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post #117 of 200 Old 04-05-2013, 12:48 PM
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Good point. Now that I think about it, my metal ducts were 7" and I used 8" flex. NOT by design mind you, only because that's what HD had in stock...6" and 8" and I DEFINITELY didn't want to go smaller.

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post #118 of 200 Old 04-05-2013, 01:41 PM - Thread Starter
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The rigid duct is 6". I'll probably stay with that size flex since the joist space will get cramped if I upsize, especially after adding two layers of drywall/GG to the insides, plus if I need to put any backing in for hanging clips.
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post #119 of 200 Old 04-05-2013, 04:58 PM
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The supplies and returns to my theater are flex duct through dead vents. The only rigid ducting above the theater supplies other rooms. It doesn't actually connect to the theater in any way. I believe that this is Greedo's situation as well. In that case, since it is completely outside of the soundproof aquarium, I didn't worry about it and it hasn't been a problem for me.

The Austin Home Theater:
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post #120 of 200 Old 04-06-2013, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Replaced the flex duct today, and while it was down, stuck two layers + GG between the joists where the duct was. Finished putting up drywall and GG in all the joist bays, and then put more insulation in my rim joists. I had sprayed it with foam that gave me R14, so the fiberglass was overkill, but I had a few rolls left over that were too small for 16 OC walls. So now I'm ready to spend tomorrow putting up my walls. A bit intimidated for some reason, since walls seem so permanent, but after doing some demo with a sawzall at a friend's house, I know nothing is permanent.

Also realized I went way way overboard in applying GG to the drywall between the joists. Somehow I used a full bucket. That sucks since it's not exactly cheap. At least I can't hear footfalls right now. I had my daughters running around upstairs, and could barely hear them. When I insulate the joists, and put the 2x 5/8" GWB and GG, I doubt I'll be able to hear an elephant up there.
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