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Old 07-14-2014, 02:24 PM
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Now that I'm starting to drywall, I had a concern about smoke detectors. My HT will be pretty soundproofed, and I'm concerned that if I'm in there watching a movie, that I or my family wouldn't hear an alarm sounding? I have a detector right outside the HT, but I doubt I'd hear it with a loud movie and the door closed. Am I being too paranoid? I could run an extra smoke in the HT.

Also, is there any trick to routing out openings in drywall with a rotozip type tool? I have a dewalt that just cuts through everything, receptacle box, stud, you name it.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greedo View Post
Now that I'm starting to drywall, I had a concern about smoke detectors. My HT will be pretty soundproofed, and I'm concerned that if I'm in there watching a movie, that I or my family wouldn't hear an alarm sounding? I have a detector right outside the HT, but I doubt I'd hear it with a loud movie and the door closed. Am I being too paranoid? I could run an extra smoke in the HT.

Also, is there any trick to routing out openings in drywall with a rotozip type tool? I have a dewalt that just cuts through everything, receptacle box, stud, you name it.
The smoke detector is on my list of to-dos that I seem to keep forgetting about. I'll likely end up with one behind my screen wall as that's the only place I can get the wire into the room easily that's out of site. Fortunately, these things talk to each other nowadays, so as long as you put them on the same circuit, when one goes off, the other will too. At least, that's how I understand it, anyway.

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Old 07-16-2014, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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JPA, I could hang one right inside the door, I have my insulation up, but that's not a big deal to pull a 6 ft wire. Is it safe to paint a smoke detector? I'd hate to have an ugly white one right in my line of sight, but if I could paint it black, it'd blend into the ceiling fairly well.
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:06 AM
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I've seen others on the forums mention painting them, but if you cover the sensor it's not going to work. I'm guessing most of us are careful to disassemble them if possible, or make sure to tape up all the vents first. The other aspect to consider is if you are not really concerned with detecting smoke in the room, and just want an alarm, you could probably wire up an alarm off of the other detectors in the area.

I have seen a black smoke alarm on the inter webs, but I certainly can't find it at the moment (other than the Nest alarm, that is).

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Old 07-16-2014, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I just need the detector to alarm. Hopefully the HT won't be the cause...
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greedo View Post
Now that I'm starting to drywall, I had a concern about smoke detectors. My HT will be pretty soundproofed, and I'm concerned that if I'm in there watching a movie, that I or my family wouldn't hear an alarm sounding? I have a detector right outside the HT, but I doubt I'd hear it with a loud movie and the door closed. Am I being too paranoid? I could run an extra smoke in the HT.
I did'nt put one in the first theater.. and for the reasons you listed it became a constanst source of anxiety.. partiularlly since I knew I would'nt be able to just "Kick" a hole through the drywall to get out if the exit became blocked...sometimes I would get up in the middle of a movie and open to door to see if things were "normal" in the rest of the house, I never got it out of my mind.... Thats "Paranoid".. $25 for that piece of mind is worth every penny... Already wired for one in the new theater...

Quote:
Also, is there any trick to routing out openings in drywall with a rotozip type tool? I have a dewalt that just cuts through everything, receptacle box, stud, you name it.

Slow down the speed or/then/and try a larger cutter with less flutes.

My Basement HT Construction ~ Faster than the speed of Dark

"I've cut that piece 3 times and its still too short..."
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greedo View Post
Yeah, I just need the detector to alarm. Hopefully the HT won't be the cause...
You might try the automation sub forum and ask if there is an easy way to wire in an alarm rather than a detector. Cocoontech (IIRC) would also be a good resource for trying to find a cheap alarm that could be wired in easily. I'm glad you asked this because that may be the way I decide to go now

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Old 07-17-2014, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post
You might try the automation sub forum and ask if there is an easy way to wire in an alarm rather than a detector. Cocoontech (IIRC) would also be a good resource for trying to find a cheap alarm that could be wired in easily. I'm glad you asked this because that may be the way I decide to go now
If you have a stand-alone alarm system, integration is difficult and usually involves pricey proprietary solutions from what I've seen.

But if you have a security system that can 'talk' to your automation system (like a GE Networx) or if you have one of the smart packages with your stand-alone security system, there are quite a number of ways to initiate a variety of alarm events.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:30 PM
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I was under the impression that the networked smokes use a 14/3 for power and use the extra conductor to signal the other smokes when they are alarming. I'm not sure what that signal is, but if it's just a contact closure of something, then you might be able to just wire in a horn on that extra conductor circuit. Of course, it may be more trouble than it's worth, and just adding another smoke would be easier.

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Old 09-08-2014, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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I officially hate drywall. Hanging all the rock for an entire basement by yourself sucks. I'm just about done with the second layer in the HT, then I'll get to work mudding and taping. I just have to keep reminding myself how much money I'm saving.

One thing I've realized is how important it is to frame things properly. 16" OC means 16" no 15 5/8, or 16 1/4. Also, making sure that corners have nailers for the drywall. I was pretty good with this in the regular rooms, but in the HT I didn't plan properly for the second layer of drywall. Also, the old adage, measure twice, cut once, especially when routing openings. On my ceiling vents, the sheet metal didn't extend far enough to use a drywall router, so I had to measure and cut by hand. One box is good, the second will need a bit of repair...

Oh, btw I hate drywall.
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Old 09-08-2014, 02:41 PM
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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you do not truly hate drywall until you have spackled your theater.

Scrolling up a bit, did you ever address the smoke alarm in the theater? If you have a 120v system you can add on using a Kidde wireless type. It can even be battery powered if you didn't run the wire.

They make detectors with sounders for low voltage (aka burglar alarm) systems, but I've only seen the sounder as a local type (when the wireless detector senses smoke the sounder will go off, but it doesn't go off if the rest of the system is in alarm).

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Old 09-09-2014, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, I ran another 14/3 line into the home theater and put a box in for the detector. I decided that I would always be worrying about it if I didn't.

Mud and tape won't be fun, but at least I'll be able to get my wife to help with some of it. It's all an adventure.
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Old 09-09-2014, 10:44 PM
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If I had a house, instead of putting a smoke detector in the theater, or an alarm from the other detectors in the theater, I'd set it up so that if a detector goes off anywhere in the house, it would also cut power to the pj. That way, I could watch a movie with piece of mind, knowing that if there ever was a prob, the pj would go off and I'd know immediately.

Or if that was too hard to do, I'd have a big red lightbulb that only went on if a detector went off in the house, like the same kind of thing deaf people have to tell them the phone is ringing.
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Old 09-10-2014, 10:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Having an alarm cut power to the PJ would be a bit of work to design and implement. My alarm is above the door, which is in the front of the theater, so I'll see the light go off, and most detectors are quite loud, around 80+ decibels. I think that unless I'm watching something super loud for an extended period of time, I'll hear the alarm sound.
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Old 09-12-2014, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter
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I need some help planning the thing above my screen that has wash lights. I think it's called a proscenium, but that doesn't seem right when I do a search on the forum. Does anyone understand what I'm talking about? The curved area that has some lights shining on the screen?
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Old 09-25-2014, 08:47 PM - Thread Starter
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It's been a productive week. I finished installing all of my lights so that I can see when I mud and tape. Built my soffit/proscenium for the HT, caulked as much as possible, and cleaned up a ton of junk so that the rest of the drywall work can go quickly. I had a slight mishap when I pulled on a framing box for the proscenium; it wasn't secured well enough and pulled out, hitting me in the face and requiring 4 stitches on my upper lip. Told the nurse that my wife packs a mean punch...

I'm excited to get the mud and tape going. With the lights working, the whole basement seems more real, and less of a cave. Just a lot of rooms to do, so hopefully I learn quickly! I put my drywall lift on craigslist, and sold it within two hours. So it cost me $25 to use it for two months; makes me think I should have asked for more, but I just wanted it out of the garage.

Here's pics of the rear, the front, my rough soffit, the soffit frame, and my lip where the soffit bit me.
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Old 09-26-2014, 05:21 AM
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I hear ya on the framing correctly Greedo. I thought I had done so well in my framing, yet did not perfect follow the 16 on center rule which meant I cut alot of drywall to fit.

On the smoke detector, I do wish I had just put a smoke detector in the theater room networked with my others. If you have a fire in a sound proofed air tight room, it will spread quickly. I do have the basement detector outside the door so if fire occurs elsewhere in the house I still think I'll hear it.
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Old 09-26-2014, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greedo View Post
It's been a productive week. I finished installing all of my lights so that I can see when I mud and tape. Built my soffit/proscenium for the HT, caulked as much as possible, and cleaned up a ton of junk so that the rest of the drywall work can go quickly. I had a slight mishap when I pulled on a framing box for the proscenium; it wasn't secured well enough and pulled out, hitting me in the face and requiring 4 stitches on my upper lip. Told the nurse that my wife packs a mean punch...

I'm excited to get the mud and tape going. With the lights working, the whole basement seems more real, and less of a cave. Just a lot of rooms to do, so hopefully I learn quickly! I put my drywall lift on craigslist, and sold it within two hours. So it cost me $25 to use it for two months; makes me think I should have asked for more, but I just wanted it out of the garage.

Here's pics of the rear, the front, my rough soffit, the soffit frame, and my lip where the soffit bit me.
That looks great! Do you have photos of the curved framing before you put the drywall up?

On the topic smoke detectors, have you thought about the NestProtect? They have come down in price and they all automatically link to each other.
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Old 09-26-2014, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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That looks great! Do you have photos of the curved framing before you put the drywall up?

On the topic smoke detectors, have you thought about the NestProtect? They have come down in price and they all automatically link to each other.
The square framing things (metal and wood) in the fourth thumbnail are the framing elements. It took some trial and error to get a decent curve, and I'm still not entirely satisfied, but it's close enough to satisfy SWMBO.

I looked into the Nest Protect. I have the Nest thermostat, and like it a lot, but I'm worried since Google bought Nest. Also the cost is crazy. A barebones smoke is around $10, and the Protect is north of $100.

Last edited by greedo; 09-26-2014 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 01-30-2017, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Can't believe I haven't posted in over two years. I'll put up some pics of the completed basement, but I'm a bit like Logan, the HT took a lot of delays. I've finished the entire basement now (excluding the HT), and am finishing up the HT itself. The new bedroom and bathroom came out very well, the craft room a bit of a cave, but overall I'm very happy with how things turned out.

For the HT, I need to finish up some crappy drywall mudding/sanding, then prime and paint the room. Pretty excited to finish this beast after so long. I definitely bit off more than I could chew, both budget and energy wise. Other than plumbing/HVAC and cutting the egress window for the bedroom, I've done it all with the help of my wife.
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Old 01-31-2017, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm doing some trim painting ahead of other work in the HT, and I want to paint it black. Normally I use Sherwin Williams Pro Classic, which I've gotten good results with in the other trim/doors I've done. It'll have a bit of a sheen to it, not flat (which I don't really want). Does anyone think that might be a big issue with reflections?
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Old 02-13-2017, 08:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Drywall guy finished up today, so now I can start priming the room.

I still haven't decided on whether to install a stage. I'm using a minimal screenwall with an AT screen, but I don't have much height to devote to a stage, and my door is awfully close, so it would just be a rectangular stage. Is it worth the time/money and effort to do such a small stage? My subfloor is pretty substantial.
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Old 02-14-2017, 12:46 PM
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Post some pics when you can so we can see the progress....thanks for sharing.
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's some pics of the framing details before the drywall hid everything. I used clips and channel to decouple the roof, the walls are all attached to the joists using IB3 connectors, and my back wall is not attached to the bedroom wall. I ran some extra conduit near where my projector will hang, as well as a run to behind the screen wall for future proofing. I also mounted my speaker boxes to the joists with IB3 clips as well.
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Did the forums change how pictures are embedded?
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Old 02-15-2017, 09:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pics of the HT after installing insulation and the billions of sheets of drywall. You can see the window in the back of the HT that I'll need to build a plug for, and also the audio closet that will be under the stairs.
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:06 AM
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Hey, welcome back, and congratulations on moving forward again. You have joined the esteemed ranks (myself included) of those of us that took more than 2 years to finish.


To answer your "imbedded image" question: yes. Now you drag and drop to upload them, then insert a tag in the body of your message.
Here's what I do:
1) Drag and drop file
2) Right-click on the file, and select "open in new tab"
3) Copy the url to the file in the new tab
4) Go back to where you are composing the message, and past the link in
5) Surround the link with open and close image tags
[ img ] link [ / img]
(without all the spaces)


When you submit the post, it'll embed the image in there.
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey, welcome back, and congratulations on moving forward again. You have joined the esteemed ranks (myself included) of those of us that took more than 2 years to finish.


To answer your "imbedded image" question: yes. Now you drag and drop to upload them, then insert a tag in the body of your message.
Here's what I do:
1) Drag and drop file
2) Right-click on the file, and select "open in new tab"
3) Copy the url to the file in the new tab
4) Go back to where you are composing the message, and past the link in
5) Surround the link with open and close image tags
[ img ] link [ / img]
(without all the spaces)


When you submit the post, it'll embed the image in there.
Wow, that's not exactly user-friendly...
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Old 02-16-2017, 09:24 AM
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It's my fault b/c it's easier than I made it seem. Since I didn't know your own personal technical skills, I went to a lot of detail so you wouldn't have a tough time figuring it out your first time.


In reality, it's: Drag & drop, copy and paste link to pic, add tags before and after.


It takes 5 seconds.
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