Attaching Trim To Decoupled Walls - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 02-14-2013, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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My room will use clips and channel for decoupling. I was originally planning to use a first layer of OSB to give me something to attach trim, columns, acoustic panels, etc. to. However, 5/8" OSB is about 2x the cost of the 5/8 DW. So I'm looking for alternatives! Any suggestions?

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post #2 of 11 Old 02-14-2013, 08:32 AM
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Good question. I have been thinking about that too as I am getting close to that point.

For the trim, I had planned on attaching 1" furring strips to the wall and then attaching the trim to that. The reason for the 1" furring strips is because my fabric panels will also be 1" thick. In my case, the lowest channel on the wall is 2-3" above the floor level, so I should be able to attach the furring strips to that. Will probably rip 1/2" ply and double it up to make the furring strips (as well as the fabric frames). Very much open to other suggestions though.

For the columns, I attached 2x2s to the walls using construction adhesive and screws into the channel. Once I have the columns wrapped, I will attach them to the 2x2s with finish nails.

I plan to just friction fit the fabric frames/acoustic panels until I figure out the final treatment plan. Once I am happy with the room measurements, they will probably get the construction adhesive/finish nail treatment directly to the DW for final installation.

I'm sure there are other methods, and I would love to hear them!
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post #3 of 11 Old 02-14-2013, 08:45 AM
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Hitting channels or studs is highly overrated when attaching molding in a decoupled double drywall room.

Furring strips - liguid nails and either 2 inch construction staples (Roofing) or drywall screws
Baseboards, Chair rail, Case molding - liquid nails and either 18 or 23 gauge finish nails.
Crown molding, if you are using it as a light tray you need to attach some triangular pieces of blocking with LN and screws. Then nail to the blocking, If tight to the ceiling, finish nails and caulk will hold it in place. blocking is even better. No need to hit channel or studs.
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post #4 of 11 Old 02-14-2013, 01:10 PM
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Heck, I've found that using my finish nailer and 1.5" nails (allowing for trim thickness) into 5/8" DD + GG holds trim just fine without the liquid nails.

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post #5 of 11 Old 02-14-2013, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

... either 18 or 23 gauge finish nails...

If you're doing a natural wood finish (stain + varnish), you may not need to even fill the holes left by a 23 gauge pin. The holes are really small and will often just disappear in the grain of the wood.

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post #6 of 11 Old 02-14-2013, 02:34 PM
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AGree that 2x 5/8 GWB is plenty strong to hold nails.

Even when screwing wood to two layers of GWB I've had the screw start to countersink. Doesn't happen as a rule, but it's pretty amazing how strong two layers are.

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post #7 of 11 Old 02-14-2013, 09:48 PM
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Can channels be found with a stud finder?

 

 

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post #8 of 11 Old 02-15-2013, 06:38 AM
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I haven't had a problem finding them with mine. Every once in a while I need to switch it to the "deep scan" setting, but it finds them just fine. Of course, it usually starts beeping the second I touch the darn thing...tongue.gif
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-15-2013, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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I seem to remember the package mine came in said it worked on metal studs as well.

Nice one, BTW, GWCR rolleyes.gif

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post #10 of 11 Old 02-15-2013, 08:31 AM
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The screws that hold the drywall to the channel can be found with a magnetic stud finder, works actually really well. The device will hang on the wall or ceiling when it finds a screw.. You can do the same with a loose rare earth magnet.

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post #11 of 11 Old 02-16-2013, 04:13 AM
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This is one of the most helpful forums on AVS. I don't say thanks on every post to keep S/N ratio down, but for the regulars that routinely answer questions here I do appreciate the help.

 

 

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