A brand new dedicated theater in the mile high city! - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
Old 02-21-2013, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey Everyone,

So this is my very first post on this site. I have been lurking around for a few months now and I just couldn't resist any longer. I spent a week reading through every post on Sandman's theater and got very inspired.

I am at the beginning stages of building a brand new dedicated home theater in my basement. I am combining this build with finishing my basement as well. The entire basement will have a new bedroom, a bathroom, an open area "game room" with a kitchenette, and of course the dedicated theater.

My theater will be 21' x 15' x 10'.

After reading about all of your theaters and seeing the creativity, I am going for it.

Here is what I plan to have in my 7.2 theater.

- Acoustically Transparent screen (I am open to manufacturer suggestions)
- Commercial grade "Projection Design" LED projector Model: FL35
- Stage platform
- One level of seating risers
- Sonance inwall Cinema LCR1 speakers
- Sonance inwall Cinema SUR1 speakers
- Sonance SUB 10-250 with enclosures (Quantity 2)
- Crown XLS1000's (Quantity 4)
- Starfield ceiling
- AMX Controlled
- AMX "Clear Connect" lighting system
- Chairs (unknown right now)


I will mostly be working on this on the weekends. (I do have a full time job to pay for this)

I included a couple of pictures of the framing I have gotten done so far as well as a floorplan.





I look forward to meeting all of you.

Enjoy!
pyrotech6 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-21-2013, 04:39 PM
Member
 
b0gus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 53
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Sounds ambitious. Looking forward to this build. Are you contracting anything out? What's the completion timeline?

I think it's past time to upgrade my equipment and my room.
b0gus is offline  
Old 02-21-2013, 05:00 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am looking forward to it as well.

I plan to contract out mechanical for the HVAC system, Plumbing for the bathroom, and drywall (because, I want nothing to do with hanging drywall.

Everything else, I plan to do.

As for the timeline, I hope do get it all done before the end of 2013.

Thanks!
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-21-2013, 06:40 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,373
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 525 Post(s)
Liked: 722
SeymourAV for the screen.

You haven't talked about soundproofing goals, it is a challenge with your floating walls but there have been some threads here over the years of some various approaches if you are interested and want to search for them.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
Old 02-21-2013, 10:33 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

SeymourAV for the screen.

You haven't talked about soundproofing goals, it is a challenge with your floating walls but there have been some threads here over the years of some various approaches if you are interested and want to search for them.


As far as soundproofing goes, I plan to build staggered stud walls on the inside walls. Stuffed with insulation. After that, 2 layers of drywall with green glue in between. The ceiling will be filled with insulation and I plan to use the "track" system (I don't know what it is called), to keep the drywall off of the floor joists.

As far as the floating walls are concerned, I will definitely look on the forums for suggestions. (I hate floating walls!)mad.gif

By the way, thanks for the screen suggestion!
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-22-2013, 06:19 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,373
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 525 Post(s)
Liked: 722
For the ceiling it is called clips and channel. Either IB1 (economy) or Whisper Clips (Deluxe) with 7/8 inch furring channel (Hat Channel). Clips available from Soundproofingcompany.com

The problem with the floating walls is how to address the bottom gap which you must leave under the drywall.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
Old 02-22-2013, 05:34 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
warrenP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Now in Colorado!
Posts: 1,800
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 53
Sweet, a Colorado build! Let me know if you need a hand, be happy to swing by for a bit. There isn't an active HT community out here, at least not that I have found yet. Looking forward to your progress. smile.gif

Every man dies. Not every man really lives.
warrenP is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 01:44 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

For the ceiling it is called clips and channel. Either IB1 (economy) or Whisper Clips (Deluxe) with 7/8 inch furring channel (Hat Channel). Clips available from Soundproofingcompany.com

The problem with the floating walls is how to address the bottom gap which you must leave under the drywall.

WOW...Great site! Thanks. I signed up with them to get a quote. Do you think they have the best prices on this stuff? I plan to use the Whisper Clips (they seem like the best). From my floorplan that I posted, I have only two walls + the ceiling that I need to worry about. (the two exterior walls that are against the concrete, I don't plan to do anything special at all, except insulation).

So, the plan is (on the two interior walls and the ceiling)...

-Staggered stud walls
-fill with insulation
-use whisper clips for the drywall
-two sheets of drywall with green glue in between


Thanks,
Tim
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 01:47 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by warrenP View Post

Sweet, a Colorado build! Let me know if you need a hand, be happy to swing by for a bit. There isn't an active HT community out here, at least not that I have found yet. Looking forward to your progress. smile.gif

Hi Warren,

Great to meet you. (you are sort of a HT legend in my mind)smile.gif

are you from Colorado? If so, what part?

I am really looking forward to this project!
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 01:56 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So, I need a couple of opinions on a few things...

#1 - looking at my floorplan, the screenwall is going to be the wall that is attached to the bedroom. Obviously, the seating risers are going against the back wall. You can see in my plan that the door to the theater is basically right in the middle of where my risers will go. The question is...should I move the door towards the front of the theater (in between the stage and the seating risers), or, should I keep it the way it is drawn and build steps up to the riser as soon as you walk in the door?

#2 - Again with the door. Right now I have a two door (french door) look. Should I just go with a single door?


I am planning on framing quite a bit this weekend. I am sure I won't get to the wall with the doors in it for a while, but I will definitely be doing the screen wall this weekend. I will have more pictures probably on Sunday or Monday.

Thanks,
Tim
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 05:47 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,373
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 525 Post(s)
Liked: 722
Pyro, quick comments and I'm out the door, flip the room and keep the door where it is. that way you can hide the little bump out in the room behind your screen wall, Use an acoustically transparent screen and put your speakers behind the screen.

Single door is best for sound containment.

You need to do all four walls and ceiling with your soundproofing treatments, read the article on flanking sounds at Soundproofingcompany.com, I always call them (John or Ted) and discuss a project plan, they help estimate quantites, Ask for BigmouthinDC s Discount. If $ is a concern use the IB1 clips, They might also have some reference material on dealing with the bottoms of floating walls. Call during the week.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
Old 02-23-2013, 05:49 AM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,373
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 525 Post(s)
Liked: 722
You really shouldn't be framing until you have a detailed theater layout plan drawn and approved by this crowd. Stage, screen wall, seating, riser location and height, speaker locations, screen size. etc.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
Old 02-23-2013, 06:14 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
Dennis Erskine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Near an airport
Posts: 9,143
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Stop! Following the rule of the seven P's is going to save you a pile of money, time, effort and disappointment. You do not want a double door, you do need to treat all six surfaces for sound isolation, you do need to consider what you're going to do about A/C in that room (even in the winter), you will be reframing that door ... if you don't know where your stage, screen wall or seating platform need to be, how do you know where the door should be? The floating walls are an issue, it can be addressed BUT bigger than "how do I handle the expansion gap at the base of the wall?" your real issue is "how do I support the addition weight of the wall?"

Dennis Erskine CFI, CFII, MEI
Architectural Acoustics
Subject Matter Expert
Certified Home Theater Designer
CEDIA Board of Directors
www.erskine-group.com
www.CinemaForte.net
Dennis Erskine is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 12:30 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Pyro, quick comments and I'm out the door, flip the room and keep the door where it is. that way you can hide the little bump out in the room behind your screen wall, Use an acoustically transparent screen and put your speakers behind the screen.

Single door is best for sound containment.

Originally, I had the room flipped, but the ceiling was causing me a headache. I attached a picture of the problem. You can see the beam in the photo. This is causing me to drop my ceiling down by 13.5 inches. I plan to drop the ceiling down at the beam and stay down until I hit the wall (the bedroom wall). I decided, I would much rather have a lower ceiling on the screen side of the room rather than the seating side.

As for the little bump you are seeing in the floorplan, I eliminated it. That bump into the room no longer exists. I am planning an AT screen and the speakers are going to be behind it.


Thanks for the vote on a single door. As I said, I am probably a few weeks from framing that wall anyways.

Thanks!
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 12:45 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Forgot the pictures....rolleyes.gif



pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

You really shouldn't be framing until you have a detailed theater layout plan drawn and approved by this crowd. Stage, screen wall, seating, riser location and height, speaker locations, screen size. etc.

So, I feel like I have a pretty solid plan right now. I unfortunately don't have the skills to do any sort of rendering or floor plans.

The stage is going to be a single layer stage that is framed with 2x6's and it is topped with two layers of 3/4" plywood. I am still debating if I should fill it with sand. (my subs are NOT sitting on the stage platform. (they are in walls)

The screen wall and screen are open to discussion. Fortunately, I don't need to figure this out to frame out the physical room.

The riser location and height are all figured out as well. I plan to have the riser platform at 15". The cavity will be filled with insulation and topped with two layers of 3/4" plywood.

Speaker locations are set. LCR are behind the screen. the two surrounds are going in my columns. The two rears are also going in the rear columns. The subs are going in the screen wall, one on each side of the screen.

The whole reason I am on here is because all of YOU are the real experts. I have been planning this for a little over a year now and I feel like I am ready. With that being said, I am extremely open to suggestions as this progresses.
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 01:57 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
Dennis Erskine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Near an airport
Posts: 9,143
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Quote:
The subs are going in the screen wall, one on each side of the screen.
Not the best plan for sub placement.
Quote:
my subs are NOT sitting on the stage platform
So they are attached to the screen wall? Could cause a vibration problem.

Hopefully, you plan to build the stage and seating platform AFTER the drywall is installed.

Dennis Erskine CFI, CFII, MEI
Architectural Acoustics
Subject Matter Expert
Certified Home Theater Designer
CEDIA Board of Directors
www.erskine-group.com
www.CinemaForte.net
Dennis Erskine is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

Not the best plan for sub placement.
So they are attached to the screen wall? Could cause a vibration problem.


Hopefully, you plan to build the stage and seating platform AFTER the drywall is installed.


I misspoke, they are going in the wall BEHIND the screen wall. The staggered studded wall.

I absolutely plan to drywall first and then build my stage and riser platforms.

Thanks
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 02:20 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Erskine View Post

Stop! Following the rule of the seven P's is going to save you a pile of money, time, effort and disappointment. You do not want a double door, you do need to treat all six surfaces for sound isolation, you do need to consider what you're going to do about A/C in that room (even in the winter), you will be reframing that door ... if you don't know where your stage, screen wall or seating platform need to be, how do you know where the door should be? The floating walls are an issue, it can be addressed BUT bigger than "how do I handle the expansion gap at the base of the wall?" your real issue is "how do I support the addition weight of the wall?"


Another vote for a single door! Thx.

So, can you help me understand why I would need to treat the two walls that are against the concrete and the floor? (the exterior walls). I understand the common walls and the ceiling, but not the others. They will be stuffed with insulation, but I wasn't planning to use double drywall or hat channel.

I do know where the stage and riser are going. I was asking for opinions on the placement of the door. (either on the riser or in front of the riser).

As for the expansion gap, I am not too concerned about it because it will be behind the stage and also behind the riser. The only expansion gap that will be "exposed" will be in between the riser and stage platforms on each side of the theater. I plan to put insulation in the gap all around anyway.

Your other concern about "supporting" the wall does have me concerned. So, it is your opinion that a floating wall cannot support on piece of 5/8" drywall on one side, and two pieces on the other? I will definitely do some research on this one. Anyone else have experience with this one?

On a side note, are you the Dennis that does detailed floor plans? If so, I might be interested.

Thanks.
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-23-2013, 04:02 PM
HOME THEATER CONTRACTOR
 
BIGmouthinDC's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 21,373
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 525 Post(s)
Liked: 722
Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrotech6 View Post

So, can you help me understand why I would need to treat the two walls that are against the concrete and the floor? (the exterior walls). I understand the common walls and the ceiling, but not the others. They will be stuffed with insulation, but I wasn't planning to use double drywall or hat channel.

If you don't treat the exterior walls the sound will do a couple of things, First it will cause the wall framing to vibrate that vibration will be transferred to the ceiling/floor joists. That vibration will be transferred to the flooring above and it will act like a giant passive radiator. Airborne noise that will be generated behind the untreated walls doesn't stop when it hits the concrete foundation, it is channeled up into the floor joist space and then the rooms above. It is called flanking, you need to stop thinking that sound travels in a straight line and instead think of it as a liquid flowing along whatever is the path of least resistance.
BIGmouthinDC is online now  
Old 02-24-2013, 07:23 AM
AVS Club Gold
 
Dennis Erskine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Near an airport
Posts: 9,143
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 46
Big is right on with sound isolation .. also note the first interest in sound isolation is to lower the noise floor in the room. The secondary, and more difficult, is to reduce sound transmission out of the room.

The expectation (in Colorado) is the floating framing structure is to support the framing and 1/2" drywall on each side plus normal wall loads. In a proper theater everything, including soffits, is built inside the drywall shell (which would be your two layers of drywall plus clips/channel). This will increase the load on the suspended framing...you simply need to account for such increased loads (kitchen cabinets in a basement bar or snack kitchen come to mind as well). In your case, you are considering staggered framing ... consider that staggered framing will double the weight of the wall structure hanging from the joists above.

The expansive soil in Colorado (I'm from there and still have family there) can cause the slab to move. The gap is to allow that movement without causing structure damage. (I have seen the drywall buckle, however.) Two layers of 5/8" will buckle but not as easily. Now that you have a gap between the drywall and the slab, you have a flanking path for sound transfer (and fiberglass insulation is not going to handle the flanking problem). You therefore need to consider that in your design.

You have a bunch of stuff to consider here before you get so far along in construction that you're faced with either tearing something out or making a compromise you didn't need to make.

I am that "Dennis". I would have thought my sig would have covered that.

Dennis Erskine CFI, CFII, MEI
Architectural Acoustics
Subject Matter Expert
Certified Home Theater Designer
CEDIA Board of Directors
www.erskine-group.com
www.CinemaForte.net
Dennis Erskine is offline  
Old 02-24-2013, 12:49 PM
AVS Special Member
 
phisch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,776
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrotech6 View Post


Your other concern about "supporting" the wall does have me concerned. So, it is your opinion that a floating wall cannot support on piece of 5/8" drywall on one side, and two pieces on the other? I will definitely do some research on this one. Anyone else have experience with this one?



Thanks.

Dennis is right that a staggered stud wall using 2x6s will be a lot heavier than a regular 2x4 framed wall. In my Colorado basement theater build, I framed the room using double 2x4 walls seperated by a 1/2" space. I think this provides even better sound isolation for the room, and the individual 2x4 walls were a lot easier to handle. You can also use a thicker layer of insulation using this method. Having said this, the engineered joists that I see you have in your house will support a LOT of weight, certainly more than the weight of the staggerd stud walls you plan on framing with - even with double layers of drywall attached to them. Just make sure that when you attach the framed walls to the floor joists that you use at least 3" long deck screws instead of nails. The screws will have a lot more holding power than the nails. In my build I also used braces in between the floor joists every few feet for added strength. Another option you can consider is to put the expansion space at the top of the the wall between the top plate and the bottom of the floor joists, and attach the sole plate directly to the slab. This will add the benefit of decoupling the wall from the ceiling. You will have have to check with the building department in your county to see if they will alow this though. At any rate, just use sound construction techniques when framing your walls and you should have no problems.
phisch is offline  
Old 02-24-2013, 01:12 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
Dennis Erskine's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Near an airport
Posts: 9,143
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
Liked: 46
That was the point ... not that it couldn't be done; but, it has to be done with some forethought and more care than usual. It's not that the joists won't support the weight, it is the method of attachment and hanging!

Dennis Erskine CFI, CFII, MEI
Architectural Acoustics
Subject Matter Expert
Certified Home Theater Designer
CEDIA Board of Directors
www.erskine-group.com
www.CinemaForte.net
Dennis Erskine is offline  
Old 02-24-2013, 04:07 PM
Senior Member
 
Black Banshee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rocky Mountain High
Posts: 267
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Woot! Another Mile High build, best of luck! I did a lot of the same sound treatments you're talking about and I love my room! The wife and I use it everyday, and it's perfect for snowy days like today. smile.gif
Black Banshee is offline  
Old 02-24-2013, 05:51 PM
Member
 
pairadux's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Posts: 29
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Well that makes four of us paying attention here in Colorado, so count me as subscribed. What part are you from?

I'm in Littleton and hope to start working on mine in the next month or so. If only I had all my stuff ready to go, this snowstorm would have given me an excuse to get some work done.
pairadux is offline  
Old 02-24-2013, 10:43 PM
AVS Club Gold
 
warrenP's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Now in Colorado!
Posts: 1,800
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 53
Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrotech6 View Post

Hi Warren,

Great to meet you...

are you from Colorado? If so, what part?

I am really looking forward to this project!

I'm in Colorado now (in the Springs area), formerly stuck in the People's Republic of Illinois. Do let me know if you want me to swing by and talk shop with you, be happy to do so. smile.gif

Every man dies. Not every man really lives.
warrenP is offline  
Old 02-25-2013, 02:43 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by phisch View Post

Dennis is right that a staggered stud wall using 2x6s will be a lot heavier than a regular 2x4 framed wall. In my Colorado basement theater build, I framed the room using double 2x4 walls seperated by a 1/2" space. I think this provides even better sound isolation for the room, and the individual 2x4 walls were a lot easier to handle. You can also use a thicker layer of insulation using this method. Having said this, the engineered joists that I see you have in your house will support a LOT of weight, certainly more than the weight of the staggerd stud walls you plan on framing with - even with double layers of drywall attached to them. Just make sure that when you attach the framed walls to the floor joists that you use at least 3" long deck screws instead of nails. The screws will have a lot more holding power than the nails. In my build I also used braces in between the floor joists every few feet for added strength. Another option you can consider is to put the expansion space at the top of the the wall between the top plate and the bottom of the floor joists, and attach the sole plate directly to the slab. This will add the benefit of decoupling the wall from the ceiling. You will have have to check with the building department in your county to see if they will alow this though. At any rate, just use sound construction techniques when framing your walls and you should have no problems.

Thanks to all of you for your ideas.

Phisch, it's great to hear that you have done a Colorado build before. I do love your idea of two seperate 2x4 walls, but I am already short on space. If you don't mind, I would like to run my plan by you. First, I plan to use a 2x6 for the top and bottom plates. I plan to use 2x4's for the studs and plan on putting them 24" OC. I am going to keep my expansion gap at the bottom (Denver County doesn't like the gap at the top). I do plan to use 3" screws to attach it to the joists. And I like your idea of adding a few more braces in between the joist for added support.

How did you handle the flanking problem with the expansion gap in your build?

Thanks!
pyrotech6 is offline  
Old 02-25-2013, 10:36 AM
Newbie
 
joehoops's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Tim,

Looks like I'm a few weeks behind you! I close on the home we are bulding down in Castle Rock in 2 weeks. I will be ordering the supplies the day we close. Funny story, I began my home search looking for a basement with a nice house attached to it to finally get working on the 10+ year home theater dream. Ended up building our dream home for twice our innitial budget. Funny how that works, now all the money that will be going towards the theater will be a bargin in comparrison. The wife gets her dream home upstairs and I get my theater down stairs. I'd say thats fair. Best of luck with your build! Subscribed!

Joe
joehoops is offline  
Old 02-25-2013, 03:24 PM
AVS Special Member
 
phisch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,776
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrotech6 View Post



How did you handle the flanking problem with the expansion gap in your build?

Thanks!


Here's the method I used - Run your first layer of drywall (OSB in my case) down to the bottom of the bottom plate of your framed wall. Then secure a 1.5" high layer of drywall on the 2x4 floor plate that will be ram set into your concrete slab. You now have your 1.5" expansion gap as required by code where you live. Caulk where the small strip of drywall meets the slab. Loosly fill the expansion gap with insulation. Next put up your second layer of drywall so that it extends over the expansion gap and onto the small strip of drywall on the floor plate. Make sure it extends at least a 1/2" to 3/4" over the small piece of drywall that's on the floor plate and then caulk this seam too. Your expansion gap will now be insulated and air tight. You will end up with about a 3/4" gap between the bottom of the second layer of drywall and the concrete floor to accomadate any mild expansion that you may or may not experience. Lastly, cover this small gap with your baseboard when you get to the finishing part of your build. This was the best method I could think of to seal the expansion gap in my theater. If you come up with a better method let us know. I hope this made sense. If not, I can try to draw a diagram to illustrate. Good luck with your build!
phisch is offline  
Old 02-26-2013, 01:52 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
pyrotech6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 22
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by phisch View Post

Here's the method I used - Run your first layer of drywall (OSB in my case) down to the bottom of the bottom plate of your framed wall. Then secure a 1.5" high layer of drywall on the 2x4 floor plate that will be ram set into your concrete slab. You now have your 1.5" expansion gap as required by code where you live. Caulk where the small strip of drywall meets the slab. Loosly fill the expansion gap with insulation. Next put up your second layer of drywall so that it extends over the expansion gap and onto the small strip of drywall on the floor plate. Make sure it extends at least a 1/2" to 3/4" over the small piece of drywall that's on the floor plate and then caulk this seam too. Your expansion gap will now be insulated and air tight. You will end up with about a 3/4" gap between the bottom of the second layer of drywall and the concrete floor to accomadate any mild expansion that you may or may not experience. Lastly, cover this small gap with your baseboard when you get to the finishing part of your build. This was the best method I could think of to seal the expansion gap in my theater. If you come up with a better method let us know. I hope this made sense. If not, I can try to draw a diagram to illustrate. Good luck with your build!

That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the advice. I will be going down to the building dept next week. I am going to ask them and see if they have any suggestions.

Thanks
pyrotech6 is offline  
 
Thread Tools


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off