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post #271 of 545 Old 11-04-2013, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice! So where did you land on the distance between the crown molding and the ceiling?

The distance between the crown and ceiling is 1-1/2". I took your advise and experimented with my mock up. I liked the more focused look vs a general wash. I can always dim if needed. This distance also put the bottom of the base where I wanted it to leave a reveal for the beams. The diminsions for the reveal took precedence. I could have gone to 2-1/2" and been happy as well.

I did find that the light was much smoother the further down the crown you placed the rope. When I had the rope at the top of the crown you could see the individual lights on the ceiling. I ended up clipping in the rope at the very bottom of the crown. This gives me about 5"- 6" between the rope and ceiling.

Thanks for the help!

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post #272 of 545 Old 11-05-2013, 06:13 AM
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The coffered ceiling is done!!!!  I am really happy with the way it turned out.
The exposed sheetrock that is painted burgundy will eventually be a faux leather texture
What do we think??
Looks really good the exposed drywall in my coffers have the mud knock down like the rest of the house and it looks sharp. I was worried about reflections but there are none. What stain will you use on the wood?
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post #273 of 545 Old 11-05-2013, 06:30 AM
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Great work on the ceiling Texan - it looks awesome!!

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post #274 of 545 Old 11-05-2013, 06:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Looks really good the exposed drywall in my coffers have the mud knock down like the rest of the house and it looks sharp. I was worried about reflections but there are none. What stain will you use on the wood?

I will be using Old Masters - American Walnut.  On Maple it is not as dark as the picture below.  I was going to match the rest of the house but it has a red tint to it and matched to closely with the GOM-Henna fabric and paint selections for the ceiling.  I think the darker brown should match nicely......hopefully:rolleyes:

 

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post #275 of 545 Old 11-05-2013, 06:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Great work on the ceiling Texan - it looks awesome!!

Thanks!


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post #276 of 545 Old 11-07-2013, 10:44 AM
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post #277 of 545 Old 11-07-2013, 06:08 PM - Thread Starter
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The doors for the racks are done!!  Next to the PJ placement this has been one of the biggest head scratchers of the build.  I originally was going to do doors on hinges but the door swing would hit the PJ or future hush box.  So I came up with this design for sliding doors.  I looked at some of the Johnson doors but was not sure how I would soundproof them.

 

From a soundproofing standpoint the rack openings have always been the weakest link.  For folks in the design stage....put the equipment in another room whenever possible!  I think these doors will do a admirable job of keeping sound from getting out of the room but they have already done an amazing job of keeping sound from getting into the room which was my main goal.  I have a couple of components that have VERY loud fan noise.  These sounds are all but gone and I have yet to put the seals on the doors.

 

The framing around the racks is decoupled with IB-3 clips.  The doors are (2) layers of 3/4" PW with GG between them.  The smaller drawer on the left is for media storage and the inside of that is a decoupled soundproof box.  It still needs some trim.

 

 

I used heavy duty ball bearing drawer guides to open the doors.  The doors are super stable, have no rattles and are easy to open.  The smaller drawer below is for storage and the inside of that is a decoupled soundproof box.

 

 

 

 

The outside edges of the doors have a lip that extends past the door and rests inside the gap in the frame that will hold the weather stripping when closed.

 

 

The outside edge of the door when closed.

 

 

There will be a trim piece and some felt that will go just under the drawer guides that will push against the door to keep sound from escaping the top and the bottom.  There is a notch cut in the face of each door that will have weather stripping that will butt up against each other when the door are closed.

 


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post #278 of 545 Old 11-11-2013, 07:24 AM - Thread Starter
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I am going to work on finishing the Lutron wiring and a couple of misc projects in the HT today. Thanks to all of the veterans that have made todays day off and our way of life possible. THANK YOU!

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post #279 of 545 Old 11-11-2013, 09:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Below is my plan for lighting scenes.  Any thoughts or suggestions?

 

Lighting Scenes.pdf 11k .pdf file

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post #280 of 545 Old 11-11-2013, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

Below is my plan for lighting scenes.  Any thoughts or suggestions?

Lighting Scenes.pdf 11k .pdf file

It would be impossible for anyone to really comment on these scenes. The only thing you can really do is set the level of each zone contained in each scene, experimenting with the levels as you go until you get "the look" you are looking for...
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post #281 of 545 Old 11-11-2013, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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It would be impossible for anyone to really comment on these scenes. The only thing you can really do is set the level of each zone contained in each scene, experimenting with the levels as you go until you get "the look" you are looking for...

I understand that I need to work out the percentages but any thought on the type of scenes that I have? Any grouping that I don't have?

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post #282 of 545 Old 11-11-2013, 12:13 PM
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I'd recommend an "all on" scene as the top button of any scene activation keypad. I'd probably can the sports scene in lieu of a "reading" scene where you can draw the task lighting above the seating a bit further.

If I were to make one further comment, I would think the "pre-show" and "intermission" scenes would be about the same - enough house light to see clearly and move around, but not so bright that it washes out the screen.
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post #283 of 545 Old 11-11-2013, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

Below is my plan for lighting scenes.  Any thoughts or suggestions?

Danger lurks here! Major time consumer. wink.gif I was so excited when I got the Grafik Eye up and running that I wasted at least one full evening (maybe more but I won't admit it) fooling with different scenes, fade times etc. Just have fun with it...scenes are luckily easy to change in the future.

Your proposed scenes look good to me. One more you may wish to add is an "end credits" scene - my guests frequently comment that it's a cool feature. I tap a button as the credits begin to roll and the lights do a slow ~30 second fade up to a comfortable exit level.

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post #284 of 545 Old 11-12-2013, 09:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I'd recommend an "all on" scene as the top button of any scene activation keypad. I'd probably can the sports scene in lieu of a "reading" scene where you can draw the task lighting above the seating a bit further.

If I were to make one further comment, I would think the "pre-show" and "intermission" scenes would be about the same - enough house light to see clearly and move around, but not so bright that it washes out the screen.

 

Thanks for the thoughts TMcG.  I am going to make the top button on single tap set up the room the way I normally want it on entry and then a double tap will take all of the lights to 90%.  We did this throughout the house and it has worked well.  By the way using a max of 90% and a 4 second ramp up has really saved my bulb life.  I have been in the house for 8 years and only replaced 3 bulbs.

 

The big difference with the pre-show vs intermission is pre-show will light behind the stage.

 

Quote:
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Danger lurks here! Major time consumer. wink.gif I was so excited when I got the Grafik Eye up and running that I wasted at least one full evening (maybe more but I won't admit it) fooling with different scenes, fade times etc. Just have fun with it...scenes are luckily easy to change in the future.

Your proposed scenes look good to me. One more you may wish to add is an "end credits" scene - my guests frequently comment that it's a cool feature. I tap a button as the credits begin to roll and the lights do a slow ~30 second fade up to a comfortable exit level.

Thanks AirBenji.   I like the end of credits scene idea.  I will add the 30 second slow fade up to the intermission scene.

 

Any other thoughts or scene ideas from the forum?


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post #285 of 545 Old 11-13-2013, 05:50 AM
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I also recommend an "all on" scene. I call it the cleaning scene. Vacuuming and dusting is about the only thing I want all of the lights on full for, but it comes in handy. And showing off the room, too, because some people want a closer look at how I did things and the "ambiance" lighting is just too dim to let them see.

I did a quick look but I didn't see what you are installing for zone control. I saw "Lutron" in a recent post, but that was it. I installed a grafik eye. The six-zone GRX is inside the theater, and I installed the Lutron single grafik eye push button at the entrance of the theater. It toggles between Scene 1 and Off. If I remember correctly, Scene 1 is also the top button of the GRX. That would be my only reason for recommending you consider what scene you want as Scene 1 (the top button of any scene activation keypad, as noted by TMcG) . I use the push button for the entrance, so I want the pre-show to come up as Scene 1 as I enter the theater. Maybe you want a single push button "all on" scene for immediate access to full light up. You may not ever want a single push button to activate scene 1, so perhaps it is a moot point. Anyway, the point is, give some thought about what goes in as Scene 1 in case you want to use some of the auxilliary devices for the lighting control.

I think the intent of TMcG's suggestion about putting it at the top of the controller was for easy access to that particular button. For what it's worth, I agree - I put mine at the bottom of the controller for that very reason.

It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds.

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post #286 of 545 Old 11-13-2013, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I also recommend an "all on" scene. I call it the cleaning scene. Vacuuming and dusting is about the only thing I want all of the lights on full for, but it comes in handy. And showing off the room, too, because some people want a closer look at how I did things and the "ambiance" lighting is just too dim to let them see.

I did a quick look but I didn't see what you are installing for zone control. I saw "Lutron" in a recent post, but that was it. I installed a grafik eye. The six-zone GRX is inside the theater, and I installed the Lutron single grafik eye push button at the entrance of the theater. It toggles between Scene 1 and Off. If I remember correctly, Scene 1 is also the top button of the GRX. That would be my only reason for recommending you consider what scene you want as Scene 1 (the top button of any scene activation keypad, as noted by TMcG) . I use the push button for the entrance, so I want the pre-show to come up as Scene 1 as I enter the theater. Maybe you want a single push button "all on" scene for immediate access to full light up. You may not ever want a single push button to activate scene 1, so perhaps it is a moot point. Anyway, the point is, give some thought about what goes in as Scene 1 in case you want to use some of the auxilliary devices for the lighting control.

I think the intent of TMcG's suggestion about putting it at the top of the controller was for easy access to that particular button. For what it's worth, I agree - I put mine at the bottom of the controller for that very reason.

I am running a Lutron HW8 system in the house and will have (2) wall box power modules in the HT rack closet and one leg of a RPM module. This gives me 13 zones of light. I currently have 10 zones and will have 3 spares. There is a 6 button switch in the room that I can assign individual scenes to. You can have more than more scene per button (single tap, dbl tap, sequence etc.). I can also have phantom keypads with other scenes that I can access from my automation system or make part of a macro. So any other ideas for scenes are very helpful.

As an example I like TMcG's ideas of a reading scene. I can select the macro from my iPad, the lights come up as needed, soft music is played from a playlist and a video of a fireplace and warm fire loops on the screen. I also could add a wifi door lock to the HT and go into full lockdown mode when I want some quiet time.wink.gif

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post #287 of 545 Old 11-13-2013, 10:05 AM
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Homeworks is a great system. I used to be Homeworks certified and design / program these systems for high-end residences. I always made the "double tap" of any scene button go to 100% for all that room's zones, the "single tap" would activate the scene, and the "press and hold" would still activate the scene, it would just alter the transition time. In AirBenji's example, a press to the credits scene would be the normal 3 second transition. A press and hold of the scene would do as he proposed, only on a 15 or 20 second transition. The work-around for this with the automation system is to use one of the Scenes 5 through 16 to duplicate the exact lighting percentages of the credits scene, but have the fixed 20 second transition time. As most automation systems don't necessarily recognize a press and hold command, this was the very simple workaround.

You can also set up other scenes accessed through programming only that enhance the experience. For example, if the source is selected to Bluray and you hit the pause button, certain lights could automatically be elevated to help you get out of the room, see a bit better around the seating, etc. Hit play and the lighting returns to the "movie" scene. If your programmer is good, they can set a boolean variable with an if / then / else statement to return the lighting to its previous condition and not a fixed scene.

The most important thing is consistency with what you are already used to in the rest of the house, so that's why I think your lighting plan is sound.

I guess I had incorrectly assumed that the "pre-show" scene would not involve screen lights and would be the same as the ending credits scene. When I think "pre-show" at a theater, I think of seeing the movie trivia, word scrambles, etc. in slide show presentation type format, meaning you would actually be using the screen, even in pre-show mode.

Did you end up splitting up the lighting between front and rear rows and treating each as a separate zone when you did the electrical?

Just curious....what automation system do you have? Crestron? Control4?
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post #288 of 545 Old 11-13-2013, 11:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Did you end up splitting up the lighting between front and rear rows and treating each as a separate zone when you did the electrical?
Thanks to thoughts from you and AirBenji I did split the front sconces onto a separate zone. I also put the (4) forward can lights in the cofferd ceiling on a separate zone as well. I can kill everything in the front half of the theater.

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Just curious....what automation system do you have? Crestron? Control4?
I looked at several systems but was never happy with the flexibility or the stock GUI's. I am going to use Charmed Quark. The programming is pretty straight forward but gives you all the flexibility you could want as far as control and the GUI. It already has drivers written for all of my sub systems in the house and HT.

I have my project started but not finished. I need to get going but I have been focused on getting the HT completed.

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post #289 of 545 Old 11-13-2013, 12:15 PM
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I looked at several systems but was never happy with the flexibility or the stock GUI's. I am going to use Charmed Quark. The programming is pretty straight forward but gives you all the flexibility you could want as far as control and the GUI. .

If it's not too late, you should take a look at HomeSeer. I chose that over CQC (a few years back), as you could do in 10 mins in HS what takes a ffew hours in CQC. Have my whole house automated with it. Thing I didn't like about CQC (may have changed now) was that you were starting from scratch for every thing in the UI. HS has Android and iOS clients (with GUI designer) that would well. Plus HS has tow licenses: regular and Pro. Latter includes everything except 3rd party plug-ins and has unlimited licenses: none of this per user/device nonsense

There are other like miCasaVerde and some Mac stuff too
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post #290 of 545 Old 11-15-2013, 05:54 PM - Thread Starter
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The Trim is ALMOST Done.  The only thing left is to route an edge on the (2) drawer fronts and add wainscot to the rack doors.

I hope to get a bunch of odds and ends taken care of on Saturday and then start to sand and stain next week.

 

The columns are done.

 

 

The corbels and puck light.  I wanted to do something a little bit different.  What do you think??

 

 

The oak steps, riser face and riser trim piece are done.

 

 

These WAC led step lights put out a ton of light.  I am going to have to dim them much more than expected.  I was worried they would not be enough light.

 

 

The 2" build out for the Lutron switch.

 

 

The 2" build out for the sconces.

 


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post #291 of 545 Old 11-15-2013, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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If it's not too late, you should take a look at HomeSeer. I chose that over CQC (a few years back), as you could do in 10 mins in HS what takes a ffew hours in CQC. Have my whole house automated with it. Thing I didn't like about CQC (may have changed now) was that you were starting from scratch for every thing in the UI. HS has Android and iOS clients (with GUI designer) that would well. Plus HS has tow licenses: regular and Pro. Latter includes everything except 3rd party plug-ins and has unlimited licenses: none of this per user/device nonsense

There are other like miCasaVerde and some Mac stuff too

 

I looked at HomeSeer when I bought my CQC license.  I agree with you, its a great system.  I will have to look at it again when I start that project back up.  Finding time to work on these things is hard to come by and any way to save some is huge.  Hopefully you can give me some more advise when I get started.  Thanks!!


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post #292 of 545 Old 11-15-2013, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
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I looked at HomeSeer when I bought my CQC license.  I agree with you, its a great system.  I will have to look at it again when I start that project back up.  Finding time to work on these things is hard to come by and any way to save some is huge.  Hopefully you can give me some more advise when I get started.  Thanks!!

No problems
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post #293 of 545 Old 11-16-2013, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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The Lighting is Finished!!  The initial scenes are loaded in the Lutron system.  I will update the percentages when the carpet, stain and paint is completed.

 

Here is the boxes in the rack closet.  The (2) white 4 gang boxes are the Lutron wall box power modules. All of the joints were made in the metal box below to keep the 4 gang boxes from getting over stuffed.

 

The power bridge plug is for the PJ.  The (2) plugs on the right are for the HT rack. The top plug will be hooked to the Furman Elite 15 PFi and will be for the subs and amps.  The bottom plug will be for the Furman F1500 UPS and will be for the PJ and other equipment.

 

 

 

 

FINAL LIGHTING PLAN:

The Moving Pictures Theater - Lighting.pdf 111k .pdf file

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post #294 of 545 Old 11-25-2013, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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After some consistent progress I have hit a couple of snags. 1) I was told by the guys I was ordering the carpet from that I needed to give them 3 weeks. I ordered the carpet last week and found out it was now back ordered and I wont' have it for 2-3 months...Ahhhh! The wife and I had plenty of discussions on carpet choice so I don't want to travel down that road again. So I am going to wait it out. I can finish everything else in the meantime. As a temp fix untill the carpet arrives I may roll some Rosco Super Sat Velour Black on the floor and stage top. I should have plenty left over from the stage wall. The floor and stage is OSB. Anybody see any issues with this down the line when I put the pad and carpet on top of painted OSB?

2) My sconces came in and I love them but the larger ones that were going to be in the center section sticks out further than I was expecting. The center of that section falls right at the step and I dont want it to be a head knocker. When I tested it out I thought I could mount it high enough but it does not look good that high. I also did not account for the 2" box on the wall. I will post a pic tonight of my possible solution and would look forward to your comments.

I am going to shift the order around a bit to try and stay productive. I have this Friday and Saturday available to dedicate to the room.

So I will clean up the rack closet and install all of the equipment. I need to paint the front of the room with some of the Rosco Super Sat Velour Black. I also should be able to build the screen wall and test mount the screen.

The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #295 of 545 Old 12-01-2013, 09:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I did not get everything on the list done but I did have a productive weekend.  I spent most of Friday getting supplies.  I had to rent a truck at HD, go to Lowes to get lumber (HD does not carry the 5/4 finger jointed pine in Houston), go to the Fed Ex office and pick up my subs (YEAH!!!!), go home, carry 2 180lbs sub boxes upstairs, load the truck with a bunch of returns, go back to HD and return the truck, make the returns and buy some more supplies......whew.  I did have almost $500 in returns!

 

I worked on the stage framing on Saturday.  I used  5/4 x 4 x 10 finger jointed pine.  It worked like a champ.  Dead straight and easy to work with.

 

Big's thread on the construction was a HUGE help!

http://www.avsforum.com/t/837848/minimalist-approach-to-screen-wall

 

 

 

 

Next up stain and finishing.


The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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post #296 of 545 Old 12-02-2013, 12:25 PM
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post #297 of 545 Old 12-02-2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by avtexan View Post

I did not get everything on the list done but I did have a productive weekend.  I spent most of Friday getting supplies.  I had to rent a truck at HD, go to Lowes to get lumber (HD does not carry the 5/4 finger jointed pine in Houston), go to the Fed Ex office and pick up my subs (YEAH!!!!), go home, carry 2 180lbs sub boxes upstairs, load the truck with a bunch of returns, go back to HD and return the truck, make the returns and buy some more supplies......whew.  I did have almost $500 in returns!

I worked on the stage framing on Saturday.  I used  5/4 x 4 x 10 finger jointed pine.  It worked like a champ.  Dead straight and easy to work with.

Big's thread on the construction was a HUGE help!
http://www.avsforum.com/t/837848/minimalist-approach-to-screen-wall






Next up stain and finishing.

Looks good!

You'll need to fir or use 2X4's for walls, ceilings and floor to attach fabric track.

One question........are you going to use Linacoustic RC for walls and ceilings behind facade screen wall? Erskine spec-ed one inch RC then 3 mm poly and another one inch layer of RC. Spray adhesive is helpful.......
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post #298 of 545 Old 12-02-2013, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

One question........are you going to use Linacoustic RC for walls and ceilings behind facade screen wall? Erskine spec-ed one inch RC then 3 mm poly and another one inch layer of RC. Spray adhesive is helpful.......

If you end up doing something similar, spray adhesive does work.....but I like BIGMouthinDC's approach a bit better, which is to get yourself a pack of cabinet screws like this: http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/part.php?cPath=310_1074&products_id=3033&osCsid=e6fdifi4l8j0jc2s6281ap79l6 and paint the heads black with a quick spray of flat black OR get a pack of black sticker "dots" to cover each head, commonly available at Wal-Mart for under a $1 (another BIG innovation!!) Not that this would ever happen, but the screws give you the opportunity to get back into your work should the need arise.
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post #299 of 545 Old 12-02-2013, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

If you end up doing something similar, spray adhesive does work.....but I like BIGMouthinDC's approach a bit better, which is to get yourself a pack of cabinet screws like this: http://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/part.php?cPath=310_1074&products_id=3033&osCsid=e6fdifi4l8j0jc2s6281ap79l6 and paint the heads black with a quick spray of flat black OR get a pack of black sticker "dots" to cover each head, commonly available at Wal-Mart for under a $1 (another BIG innovation!!) Not that this would ever happen, but the screws give you the opportunity to get back into your work should the need arise.

I agree..........

The spray adhesive is to tack only.........I used 3-1/4" cabinet screws with fender washers in each corner and middle for 4ft X 10 ft roll of RC and I would NOT suggest using spray adhesive only. Working with a MASSIVE sheet of poly is not fun and spray adhesive can be yor friend. I was able to apply a 25 ft X 16 ft sheet of 3mm by myself and all went well due to SA.
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post #300 of 545 Old 12-02-2013, 10:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Looks good!

You'll need to fir or use 2X4's for walls, ceilings and floor to attach fabric track.

I plan to add them when I add the furring for the track in the rest of the room.  I have a stack of ripped 2 layer 3/4" PW already cut and ready to go.  I also have set aside my best 2x4's for the stage track.  I am going to finish the stain and then I will add them.  I am sure I will need another assist when I get to that part.

 

I know you mentioned no supports under the bottom horizontal but any harm if I brace the center of the top horizontal?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by doublewing11 View Post

One question........are you going to use Linacoustic RC for walls and ceilings behind facade screen wall? Erskine spec-ed one inch RC then 3 mm poly and another one inch layer of RC. Spray adhesive is helpful.......

 

Getgray had Quest do my acoustical plan and they spec'd (3) 48"x48" pieces of the 4" QuestAI Q-Trap

 


The Moving Pictures Theater Construction Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1462881/th...ruction-thread

Houston GTG - Summer 2014
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/61-are...l#post26079610
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